The old stories speak of a pact between the hens and the people of the land [the Mapuche]. The hens would give the people blue eggs and the people of the land would care for them and honor them in ceremonies of thanks and prayer. The bodies of the colloncas and ketros [chicken varieties] remember the pact and pass on the message of the blue eggs when the pact is respected. Agélica Celis Salamero[1]
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Photo: Lanalhue
Noticias
Blue-egg
chickens, gallinas Mapuches, or “Araucanas” to poultry
enthusiasts, first came to outside attention in 1921 when Spanish poultry
specialist Professor Salvador Castelló, announced their existence at the first
international poultry conference in The Hague.
Castelló explained that on 6 August 1914, he had landed at the Chilean port of Punta Arenas on the Strait of Magellan and had immediately noticed several hampers of blue-shelled eggs. His first thought was that they were ducks’ eggs. But the local people assured him that they were, indeed, hens’ eggs and that many hens in southern Chile laid eggs of the same color. This utterly astonished him, because as he said ‘neither in Europe not in North America had he seen eggs of this colour.’ Later in the company of Chilean poultry breeders, Castelló toured a region of Chile where blue-egg chickens were especially common. This was the rugged lake district of the south-central part of the country, the homeland of the warlike Araucanian or Mapuche Indians.[2]
What was their origin? The chickens’ wild ancestor, the Red
Junglefowl (Gallus gallus gallus), was
found from northeasterner India east to Indonesia, and seems to have been
domesticated by 4,000 years ago. In the
ensuing centuries it spread west to Europe and Africa and east to the Oceania. By 1492 domesticated chickens (G. g. domesticus) had been introduced
from Iceland, the westernmost outpost of European society, to Easter Island,
the eastern most landfall of the Polynesians.[3]
And
perhaps they were in South America too. In1532, when Spanish conquistador Pizarro
reached Peru, “he found that chickens were already an integral part of Incan
economy and culture, suggesting at least some history of chickens in the
region.”[4]
In 1590 Jesuit Fr. José de Acosta, in The Natural & Moral History of the
Indies, wrote:
….let us now speake of tame fowle; I wondered that hennes, seeing there were some in the Indes before the Spanish came there, the which is well approved for they have a proper name of the country, and they call a henne a Hualpa, and the egge Ronto…[5].
Others
disagreed. “El Inca,” Garcilaso de la
Vega, son of a Spanish conquistador and an Inca noblewoman, whose accounts of
Inca history, culture and society are widely accepted, contradicted de Acosta’s
arguments and concluded “I have clearly proved that there were no Cocks or Hens
in Peru before the conquest…”[6] And when authoritative German naturalist
Alexander von Humboldt agreed in 1811that there were no pre-Colombian chickens
in the Americas, that put an end to the debate for a hundred years or so.[7]
But not forever.
In 1888, a newly graduated English engineer, 19 year old Richard (Ricardo)
Latcham arrived in Chile to build roads in the recently pacified Mapuche
homeland near today’s city of Temuco. He
lived there among the Mapuche for the next five years, making many friends,
learning the language and developing a fascination and respect for Mapuche culture. Moving to Santiago, he began to read
anthropology, develop his anthropological library and to publish technical
articles on the Mapuche and on Chilean archaeology—while still working as an engineer
and teacher of English.[8]
In
1921, while finishing his Domesticated
Animals of Pre-Columbian America he learned of Castelló’s report, which
coincided with his view that there were chickens in South America before the
conquest:
It is thought that in [pre-Colombian] America there were no true chickens, but this is only partially true. It may be that in North America there were none, but in South America there were several species, distinct from those of the old world. Not all these species have been classified, but in Chile, Bolivia and Peru [there are] no fewer than three indigenous varieties or species, domesticated by the native people…
Photo: Juan Osvaldo
In Chile these
are called the trintri, with “curly
feathers as thought they were put on in reverse,”
…the collonca, which are small and tailless;
…and the francolina [or ketro], which Lacham thought to be a
variety of the collonanas, “that
carry a tuft of feathers on their heads that fall on all sides to the level of
their eyes. The country people call them
‘hens with ear rings.’ Like those above they lay blue eggs.”[9]
Photo: Kollonca de Aretes
So if chickens were
in Chile before the Spanish, where might they have come from?
Europe?
Polynesia?
If chickens were
in western South America before the Spanish, a Pacific origin seems more likely
than a European one. Prehistoric
Polynesians spread chickens throughout the Pacific to Easter Island, the
eastern most Polynesian outpost, by the 1300s.
Since sweet potatoes – a South American plant domesticated in Peru by
around 2,000 BC – were in the central Polynesia by 1000 to 1100 AD it is very
likely that there was prehistoric contact between South Americans and Polynesians.[11]
And if sweet potatoes went west, chickens could have come east.
The Evidence
Archeological evidence
shows domesticated chickens to have been in China before 5000 BC, in India by
2000 BC, and in Polynesia as early as 1000 BC. But of all the thousand’s of
archaeological excavations that have taken place in Peru, not one has reported
finding a pre-Columbian chicken bone.
But they found 83
in Chile…. maybe.
But of course
their conclusions were not universally accepted. Jaime Gongora and his colleagues responded,
arguing that the mtDNA sequence of the Chilean finds also matched chickens from
Europe and “all over the world,” contradicting the view that they were of
specifically pacific origins. They also questioned the dating, arguing that the
site’s location near the coast suggested that the chickens’ diet might have
included shells or fish scraps which would have introduced carbon from marine
sources into their bones, yielding inaccurately old radiocarbon dates.[13]
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So, what to
conclude? Storey and her colleagues make
a good case for pre-Colombian dates on the El Arenal-1 chickens, but if there
were chickens in South America before the Spanish, and especially if they were
“an integral part of Incan economy and culture,” it is difficult to explain why
chicken bones have not been found at any other Peruvian or Chilean sites.
But perhaps some
were. Storey and her colleagues suggest
that archaeologists working along the Pacific coast of South America re-examine
the faunal collections from their sites. “Remains such as bones of chickens or
pigs which may have been classified as intrusive previously may provide
evidence of other points of contact between Polynesia and the Americas.”
And what of the Blue-egg Mapuche Chickens?
As part of their
examination of the origins of chickens in South America Storey and her colleagues
considered the possibility that the blue-egg chickens are descendants of the El
Aremal-1 birds. They found a complicated
story. Castelló originally described the
chickens as being tailless, having ear tufts and laying blue eggs, and these
became the defining characteristics of the poultry fanciers’ Araucanas. He later discovered that the birds he
described had been bred recently from a cross between a blue-egg tailess hen
and a rooster with ear tufts. Both the tailess trait and the trait for ear
tufts are also found in European chickens, and that may be their origin.
Of the blue egg
trait, which seems to be indigenously Chilean[14],
they found no mention prior to about 1880. Darwin, who was in Chile in 1834-35 and
who wrote extensively about chicken varieties in The Origin made no mention of blue eggs. As Storey says, “it seems unlikely that if
blue eggs had been available in markets as they were in the early 1900s, that
Darwin would have missed them.” [15]
So Mapuche
blue-egg chickens appear to be a relatively recent development, the result of a
mutation sometime back in chicken prehistory before 1880. But that makes them no less Mapuche chickens,
nor does it exclude the possibility that their ancestors included pre-Colombian
Chilean chickens--if they existed.
Mapuche Blue-Egg Chickens today
Beginning in the
first years of the 21st century, the Chilean Ministry of Agriculture
and other agencies, governmental and non-governmental, began programs to
encourage rural Chileans, Mapuche and mestizo, to raise blue-egg chickens under
artisanal and sustainable conditions and to promote their sale in local and
perhaps national markets. In the 20th
century blue-eggs had become increasingly rare as breeding among many chicken
varieties had resulted in a highly heterogeneous population of chickens in
rural south central Chile, so the project was also designed to restore and
improve the genetic characteristics of the earlier blue-egg lineages.
While the
program’s success has not been completely evaluated there seems to have been progress
with the sale of 15.6 million blue eggs in the first year of the project. Today
you can often find vendors selling blue eggs along with garden produce on the
streets of Pucón and Villarica and the market in Temuco.[16]
But if that’s not
convenient, here are some Contacts
in the Valle del Itata, and Contacts in
Villarrica. Or you can Google “huevos azules en Santiago” if you live
in the capitol.
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Mapuche egg recipes
Once you have
your blue eggs, you’ll want to prepare them traditionally (unless you plan to
incubate them), so here are a few recipes:
“Flour and egg soup for breakfast: This was used long ago to give the men energy before they went to work. Fry a little onion, garlic and vegtables add potatoes cut into pieces and boil. Add toasted flour and allow to boil again. At the end season and add one egg per person. The eggs should be opened at one end with a fork and then beaten through the opening, then added to the soup in a thin stream.” Marina Recabarren
“Here in Tucapel a Chicken cazuela with home made noodles is very typical. Take one egg per person and add sifted flour and water to make a soft dough and about 10 minutes before serving, drop the dough into the boiling cazuela by pushing through the tines of a fork. They come out like little noodles, short and very pretty.” Francisca Paredes.
“They are used a lot in deserts to sweeten the day, like Leche Asada [aka flan]. Boil a liter of milk with cinnamon, cloves, and vanilla. Beat 6 eggs with a cup of sugar, add the milk, beat again and strain through a colander. Bake until done, about 30 minutes in a wood fired oven. Marina Recabarren.[17]
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[1]
Huevos Azules de Gallinas Mapuche, on line at http://huevosazules.wordpress.com/ All translations mine unless otherwise noted.
[2]
Langdon, Robert. 1989. When the Blue-Egg Chickens Come Home to Roost: New
thoughts on the Prehistory of the Domestic Fowl in Asia, America and the
Pacific Islands
The Journal of Pacific History Vol. 24, No. 2, pp.
164-192.
[3]
Chicken, Wikipedia;
Icelandic Chicken, Wikipedia.
[4] Storey A. A., et al., "Radiocarbon and DNA
evidence for a pre-Columbian introduction of Polynesian chickens to
Chile", Proceedings of the
National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America.
[5] Acosta, José de. 1880. The Natural &
Moral History of the Indies. Reprinted
from the English Translation of Edward Grimston, 1604. Vol 1. London: Haklupt Society. p. 276.
[6] Garcilaso De La Vega,
El Inca, 1688. The Royal
Commentaries of Peru in Two Parts London:
Miles Flesher. p. 386.
[7]
Langon, op cit.
[8]
From 1928 to his death in 1943 Latcham was Director of the Chilean National Museum
of Natural History.
[9] Latcham, Ricardo E. 1922 Los
animales domésticos de la América precolombiana. Santiago. p. 177.
[10] Ibid,
p. 9.
[11]
Montenegro, A.,C. Avis and A.J. Weaver, Modeling the pre-historic arrival of
the sweet potato in Polynesia, Journal of Archaeological Science,35, 355-367 on
line at http://www.climate.uvic.ca/people/alvaro/SPotato.pdf
[12] A. A. Storey et
al., op. cit.
[13]
Gongora J, et al. Indo-European and
Asian origins for Chilean and Pacific chickens revealed by mtDNA. Proc Natl
Acad Sci USA. 2008;105:10308–10313. On
line at http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2492461/
[14]
There is also a Chinese blue-egg chicken, the Dongxiang blueshelled, which has
the same gene for shell color as the Araucana. I found no evidence concerning
its relation to the Araucana, if any.
See Zhao, R, et al. 2006. A
Study on Eggshell Pigmentation: Biliverdin in Blue-Shelled Chickens. Poultry
Science 85:546–549. On line at http://ps.fass.org/content/85/3/546.full.pdf
[15]
Storey, A.A., et al 2008. Pre-Columbian chickens, dates, isotopes
and mtDNA. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 105(48): E99., and Storey,
A.A, et al 2011. Pre-Columbian chickens of the Americas:
a critical review of the hypotheses and evidence for their origins. Rapa Nui Journal Vol. 25 (2) on line at http://une-au.academia.edu/AliceStorey/Papers
[16] Fundación para la Innovación
Agraria, Ministerio de Agricultura. 2009. Resultados y Lecciones en Selección y
Manejo de la Gallina Mapuche Productora de
Huevos Azules. Serie Experiencias De Innovación Para El Emprendimiento
Agrario. On line at http://bibliotecadigital.innovacionagraria.cl/gsdl/collect/publicac/index/assoc/HASH8d8c.dir/68_Libro_Gallinamapuche.pdf?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=prettyphoto&iframe=true&width=90%&height=90%, and Moya Azcárate, Rita. 2004 Gallina De Huevos
Azules: contribuciones a la elaboración de un protocolo. Línea Transversal Biodiversidad no cultivada
y semidomesticada. América Latina Red CBDC.
On line at http://www.cetsur.org/wp-content/uploads/gallina-de-huevos-azules-contribuciones-a-la-elaboracion-de-un-protocolo.pdf
[17] Moya A., op cit, p. 20.
