tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-26767065556119837732024-02-07T07:46:46.000-03:00Eating ChileanJimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.comBlogger71125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-48246086285773939302013-09-14T18:41:00.000-03:002013-09-14T18:47:26.070-03:00Chilean Olives and Olive Oil<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-align: left;">
<i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the
year of 1560, Don Antonio de Ribera…brought with him from Seville several Olive
Plants, which he carefully saved, and put up in two great Jars, and of above a
hundred which he had brought, there were but three slips only that were alive,
the which he planted in a fruitful Soil and Valley, wherein he having also
other fruits, such as Grapes, Figs, Pomegranats and Oranges, Limes and the
like… Don Antonio de Ribera having
planted these Olive Trees in his own Land, would not afford so much as one leaf
of them to be planted in any other Ground than his own, and for security of them
he guarded them with at least one hundred Negros and thirty Dogs, which watched
his rich Plantations both by day and night; but it happening out that some
persons, more watchful than his Dogs and perhaps by the connivance or consent
of the Negros, (as is to be suspected) stole away in the night time one of the
three Olive Plants, the which in some time after, was seen to flourish and grow
in Chili… and there for the space of three Years afforded many sprouts for
divers Plantations, increasing with that prosperous success, that not the least
twig was put into the ground but which </i><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">took and in a short
time became a fair Olive Tree.</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“The Inca” Garcilaso de la Vega 1609</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thus olives arrived
in Chile, assuming that “The Inca” Garcilaso got the story right. He was writing 30 years later, and the story
surely had been told many times as the punch line, below, makes it a great
tale: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> at the end of three years… the same tree was again
restored and replanted in the very same place from whence it had been taken,
with that secrecy, and with that dexterity returned that the master could never
detect the Person who had robbed him of it.</span></i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">However olives
arrived in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>,
they did well. Garcilaso reports that by
the time of his writing olive oil was already being exported from Chile to
Peru, and today, 400 years later, Chile exports over 12 million liters every
year, some 35-40% to the United States. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean olive oil
is among the best in the world, 99% is extra virgin, most with a total acidity
of .02% or less. Most is mild, suitable
for either salads or for cooking, but more intense varieties are available if
you look for them. In 2011 Chilean olive
oil received prizes in 10 international competitions and 13 Chilean olive oil
producers received outstanding scores in the 2012 olive oil guide <i><a href="http://www.oliveoiltimes.com/reviews-opinions/flos-olei/3035">Flos Olei</a>,
</i>two of 97/100.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span> And in contrast to the situation with
European olive oils where adulteration, fraud and mislabeling are rampant<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span><!--[endif]--></span>,</span> Chilean
oils have been relatively free from scandal.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: 18.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A
bit of history.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although the
Spaniards who conquered <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>
had presumably grown up on a diet rich in olive oil, in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> they
turned to a much more available alternative: beef fat, rendered from cattle that soon roamed
the central valley in vast herds. (See <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/12/eating-chilean-beef.html">Eating
Chilean Beef</a>) Chilean historian Pereira
Salas explains that “olive oil had
very restricted culinary use in <st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place>,
serving only to dress salads; beef fat was adopted for cooking and is one of
the most important characteristics of Creole diet. What butter is for the French, olive oil is
for the Italian or Spaniard, beef fat was for the Chilean”.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But of course there
was some production, for both oil and table olives. Unfortunately, most Chilean olive oil was
“fatty, seldom clear and very bad quality, owing to the singular manner in
which it is made,” according to French naturalist Caludio Gay, who traveled widely
and wrote authoritatively on <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>
during the 1830s and 40s. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>In June or July they knock the olives to the
ground with poles and then they gather them into piles for five or six days,
and sometimes as much as a month, and after crushing with stones they put them
a portion at a time in a bag and rub them with their hands against a sloping
board with water so hot as to be very painful. The liquid is gathered in a tray
or other vessel and after it has cooled the oil that floats on the water is
removed with a spoon and clarified over a fire. The remaining pulp is thrown
away as useless or is used as fuel for ovens, still containing a great deal of
oil from the depraved way they have operated.</i></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But there was some
good oil. Using mills like those used in Europe the Villuco hacienda, in <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city> province, produced the best oil in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>…five days after being harvested the olives
are ground in a horse powered mill. The
resulting paste is placed in sacks for pressing, first moderately in order to
obtain first class oil, and later after mixing with hot water, it is given
another much stronger pressing in order to obtain all the oil content, and
which is sold as second and third quality. </i></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Moroccan olive mill (photo </span><a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Jerzystrzelecki" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" title="User:Jerzystrzelecki"><span style="color: #0b0080; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Jerzy Strzelecki</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ) & 19</span><sup style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Century French olive press (photo: </span><a href="http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/89852904/Very_rare_19th_century_French_olive_press.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bid
or Buy</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) similar those used in </span><st1:place style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Chile</st1:place><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And there was great
potential. Gay thought Chilean olive
trees were greatly superior to the scrawny trees in <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region>, and: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>If Chile devoted itself intelligently to
this industry it could supply all the oil the countries of the southern ocean
consume and now obtain from Europe; but the tree is slow to grow, yielding a
fair harvest only after 25 or 30 years, which is too much for Chileans who are
always rushed to pick their fruit soon. This is surely the reason that they
have planted so few trees, satisfied with those that exist to produce the oil
needed for the country.</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></b></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By 1869 <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> had about
145,000 olive trees which could have provided only about .4 liter of oil (1 ¾
cups) per person per year.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span> Over
75% of the trees were in <st1:placename w:st="on">Ñuble</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Province</st1:placetype>, some 400 km south of <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city>. But it was in Santiago that the
best oil was produced, “with a perfection that puts to shame any foreign
oil. Almost all is consumed within the
country as it is greatly appreciated.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the 1930s the
Chilean population had grown to about 5 million, but the situation was little
changed. There were some 260,000 trees, perhaps
two thousand hectares of olives, enough for only about .3 liters of oil per
person—1 ¼ cup—per year. At the same
time, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>
was importing some three million liters of vegetable oils per year—now
including soy and cotton seed oil as well as olive. To replace this level of
imports, Chile would need some 15,000 hectares of olive trees rather than the
2,000 then planted.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It didn’t
happen. By 1998, Chilean olive
plantations had only increased to 4,500 hectares, some 1.2 million liters of
olive oil were imported, and annual consumption was down to less that 1/10 of a
liter—1/5 cup-- per person.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitvbylrasKSvPYrji-01bAWwWwOBop2_Dwgd_pA7jnO00F4uX_BVM5BnQuHwKnZMJyj1yfCYoBCCntWxuED3V6HHuNVp_DUfp79R9bA64u34O_izSGNgfZn74fiovbfJV0PS2O-1-I6Ncu/s1600/New+Picture+(6).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitvbylrasKSvPYrji-01bAWwWwOBop2_Dwgd_pA7jnO00F4uX_BVM5BnQuHwKnZMJyj1yfCYoBCCntWxuED3V6HHuNVp_DUfp79R9bA64u34O_izSGNgfZn74fiovbfJV0PS2O-1-I6Ncu/s200/New+Picture+(6).jpg" width="67" /></a><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But something else
had happened. Since 1990-91 world olive
oil consumption had increased by about 1/3 and in the United States, one of
Chile’s most important agricultural export markets, people were now using 50%
more olive oil, almost all imported. The
foodie revolution had struck! “EVOO,” catch
phrase of TV foodie <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/09/food-network-vs-elgourmetcom.html">Rachael
Ray</a><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"> </span> was in the <a href="http://www.everythingrachaelray.com/2006/12/evoo-is-official_11.html">Oxford
American College Dictionary.</a> <b>Olive
oil was hot!</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 18.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And
Chile noticed. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chileans started
planting olive trees: 500 hectares more
by 2001, 7,600 more by 2006, 20,000 more by 2011 and a projected 28,000 more by
2020 for a total of 33,000 hectares. And
while domestic olive oil consumption increased to about .6 lt. a year, more
than doubling in five years, production increased over 400% and exports
increased 1100%, over ten times, to 12.5 million liters a year.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20ETPhkbgvIedHgxT9f-z7KCjLZHPQgHhaBCQ8GzwDtVdPTDxUIld6JwJ0leqbmRYeFpdlWxuggCTUax0BD579vJ5AKasnzk6FcvEoYSpE6YXmnDnRP2kkNh_mekrvn0ujqkXOpkvVxp-/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20ETPhkbgvIedHgxT9f-z7KCjLZHPQgHhaBCQ8GzwDtVdPTDxUIld6JwJ0leqbmRYeFpdlWxuggCTUax0BD579vJ5AKasnzk6FcvEoYSpE6YXmnDnRP2kkNh_mekrvn0ujqkXOpkvVxp-/s640/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 18.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean olive oil today<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw16VEzbV8JTCDJUtXKfefp1pWYKM_TWsDT4eOFVVP66mGfJ8exdUqDI3p6jZP3ufqGlFwctx7PkFCbkhFBvBE0neqCh1Ff8hOyD6ZnbdHqHK47L_bd2Sgly4-Sz9yu2-c_U5xFRlFqAqG/s1600/New+Picture+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw16VEzbV8JTCDJUtXKfefp1pWYKM_TWsDT4eOFVVP66mGfJ8exdUqDI3p6jZP3ufqGlFwctx7PkFCbkhFBvBE0neqCh1Ff8hOyD6ZnbdHqHK47L_bd2Sgly4-Sz9yu2-c_U5xFRlFqAqG/s320/New+Picture+(1).jpg" width="140" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Olives are grown
throughout northern and central <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>
from oases in the <st1:place w:st="on">Atacama Desert</st1:place> to the Bío
Bío region, but most are grown in the central region shown on the map. The dominant variety of olive, comprising
just under 50% of trees and 70% of oil production is the Spanish <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbequina">Arbequina,</a> which has one of
the<i> </i><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">highest concentrations of oil (20-22%). Oils made from
Arbequina are generally buttery, fruity, and very mild in flavor, and are used
as a base for more flavorful blends. The second most common is the Tuscan
variety <a href="http://www.oliveaustralia.com.au/About_Olive_Trees/Frantoio/frantoio.html">Frantoil</a>,
which also yields high percentages of oil, the best of which is highly aromatic
and fruity. Together these two varieties
make up approximately 70% of Chilean production.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span><!--[endif]--></span>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arvequina olives<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Photo: <a href="http://www.willisorchards.com/product/arbequina-olive-tree">Willis
Orchards</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most Chilean olives
are picked using hand-held vibrating rake-like devices that shake them from the
branches onto cloths spread under the trees, although some groves are densely
planted and pruned for machine harvesting.
The photo below is part of an excellent photo essay covering the process
from <a href="http://cachandochile.wordpress.com/2011/06/06/chilean-olive-oil-a-day-on-the-job/">Cachando
Chile</a>: “Chilean Olive Oil:
A day on the job” by fellow blogger Margaret.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY3WOn45Xpj6V0IakmzgoxO19e31fC-5S1a0VvCEDSswSKmTvC4z7YOKXF9LyZJfjE8Pe1lWQGmRV-Fwro-BVLX_ACKYQ5vAEezmaOwJls5GIHqE-Ak3lKt6BGmXE7C_WS6wWDe6F0fMYP/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY3WOn45Xpj6V0IakmzgoxO19e31fC-5S1a0VvCEDSswSKmTvC4z7YOKXF9LyZJfjE8Pe1lWQGmRV-Fwro-BVLX_ACKYQ5vAEezmaOwJls5GIHqE-Ak3lKt6BGmXE7C_WS6wWDe6F0fMYP/s640/New+Picture.bmp" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The <a href="http://www.chileoliva.cl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=65&Itemid=71&lang=en">Chile
Oliva</a> web site explains the rest of the process: After harvest the olives are
washed and then crushed, usually within 24 hours. The result is a thick paste which is kneaded
or beaten to allow the smaller drops of oil to aggregate for easier separation.
To extract the oil the paste is spun, or the solids and liquids are separated
and spun separately. The resulting oil is centrifuged again to remove the
remaining water, and:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>At this point the final product is ready for
consumption. However, in order to eliminate any remaining solid residues from
the previous stages, the oil goes through a filter system; right after that the
final product is collected in stainless steel barrels and then packaged to be
stored.</i></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The finished
product appears on Chilean supermarket shelves, commonly holding a dozen or
more brands, at from about 4,000 CLP (US$8.00) per liter for store brands to
7,000 CLP for some of the best known name and organic brands. Virtually all is marked “extra virgin” and
most is fruity and mild. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EJguiPFX1uwtbXPt1wHMts_zYB91flQPLdc3SUsoSdxdHGTvTl3G6TAq5mWVJD7p68sTKkwvLs54iq71SAAoJ76LlrpAImBXeyyVMQjyjKuIrVciQBwnjKCMYwYb84u3cgIhsMUd2XSh/s1600/New+Picture+(3).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0EJguiPFX1uwtbXPt1wHMts_zYB91flQPLdc3SUsoSdxdHGTvTl3G6TAq5mWVJD7p68sTKkwvLs54iq71SAAoJ76LlrpAImBXeyyVMQjyjKuIrVciQBwnjKCMYwYb84u3cgIhsMUd2XSh/s320/New+Picture+(3).bmp" width="127" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But if you prefer
an oil with a more pronounced flavor, you may have to do some looking. My favorite for salads is from <a href="http://bezma.cl/web/">Bezma</a>, from the <st1:placetype w:st="on">valley</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Azapa</st1:placename> in northern <st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place>. It is not extra virgin oil, having acidity up
to 1.4%, and is sold as “<i>Sabor Intenso,</i>”
intense flavor. I don’t use it in
cooking, but to my taste it is a great oil for salads.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 18.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean Olives<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While olive oil has
only recently become popular, and then with a fairly limited portion of the
population, olives themselves were common and widely eaten throughout Chilean
history. Writing in the 1840s Gay
explained that:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>There are two varieties of olives, a smaller
one which provides oil in greater quantity and a larger one, used mainly as
food. The consumption of these is very
great, above all in the men’s and women’s convents. To prepare them they are pricked with a thorn
and then put in a vessel of water, which is changed twice a day. Twelve to fifteen days are enough to remove
all their bitterness and foul liquid, and afterwards they are preserved with
salt and dry cumin. When they are to be used they are dressed with oil,
vinegar, and frequently with whole or minced onion. They are always preserved
when ripe and thus are black, but some curious persons also prepare green
olives, as in Europe, which is not very common as they are liked by very few.</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></b></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While this
traditional <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Cure-Olives">method of preparing
olives</a> is no longer practiced in Chile, except perhaps by hobbyists for
home consumption, olives continue to be popular, with an annual consumption of
1.8 kg per person, about the same as that of Greece and almost 3 times that of
the US (but less that Syria, the world leader at 6 kg per person). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Olives from major
commercial processors are available in supermarkets’, in jars, plastic and in
bulk, and in bulk from small producers at neighborhood<i> ferias</i>, street fairs, small shops and at La Vega, Santiago’s large
public market. The most common varieties
are the green, purple and black types in the photo below. Their colors indicate
how ripe they were when picked, and while the green and black are mild, smooth
and buttery; the purples (our favorites) always have a trace of bitterness. All commonly sell for 4000 CLP a kg (US$3.60/lb.)
at<i> ferias</i>; more in supermarkets. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Olives at the <i>feria </i>where I buy mine, along with
pickled chilies, onions and mixed vegetables.
In the back are dried peaches, walnuts, garbanzo beans, and fresh
chilies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportEndnotes]--><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br clear="all" />
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<!--[endif]-->
<div id="edn1">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Vega, Garcilasso de la. 1688. The Royal Commentaries of Peru... Illustrated
with sculptures. Written originally in Spanish, by the Inca Garcilasso de la
Vega, and rendered into English, by Sir Paul Rycaut, Kt. London: Miles Flesher
for Jacob Tonson, 1688. p. 391.</span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Sudy Bustamante, Ana X and Pablo
Cortéz Tirado. 2012. Aceite de oliva. Oficina de estudios y
políticas Agrarias, Odepa, Governero de Chile.
</span>On line at <a href="http://www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/doc/4878.pdf">http://www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/doc/4878.pdf</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">But note that Chile’s exports are only about 1% of the world
total.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> see <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Virginity-Sublime-Scandalous-World/dp/0393343618">Extra
Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil</a></i></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> In
July 2913 the Chilean TV program <i>Contacto</i>,
known for its exposés, reported that one Chilean “extra virgin” olive oil (and
one Italian and one Spanish oil) should actually be categorized as “Lampante
oil” and were not suitable for human consumption, while two other Chilean
brands (and one Italian brand) were found to have been made from olives that
had fermented. The makers disputed these
claims as did the Chilean minister of health who said the program “lied.” See <a href="http://www.elmostrador.cl/noticias/pais/2013/07/10/organizacion-de-consumidores-exige-que-se-retire-del-mercado-los-productos-denunciados-por-contacto/">http://www.elmostrador.cl/noticias/pais/2013/07/10/organizacion-de-consumidores-exige-que-se-retire-del-mercado-los-productos-denunciados-por-contacto/</a> and </span></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.elmostrador.cl/noticias/pais/2013/07/10/organizacion-de-consumidores-exige-que-se-retire-del-mercado-los-productos-denunciados-por-contacto/"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.elmostrador.cl/noticias/pais/2013/07/10/organizacion-de-consumidores-exige-que-se-retire-del-mercado-los-productos-denunciados-por-contacto/</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn5">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <st1:place w:st="on">Pereira</st1:place> Salas,
Eugenio. <span lang="ES-CL">1977. Apuntes para la historia de la cocina
chilena. </span>Santiago: Universitaria.
p. 20 On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0006512">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0006512</a> all translations mine unless otherwise noted.</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn6">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Gay, Claudio. 1862-1865.
Agricultura, Tomo 2. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia
Natural de Santiago, p. 149-50. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn7">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Assuming 25-30 kg of olives per tree with and a yield of 20% of that weight in
oil. See. Correa Vergara, Luis, below.</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn8">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[8]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Tornero, Recaredo S. 1872 Chile ilustrado: Guía descriptivo del
territorio de Chile. Valpariso: Librerias I Ajencias del Mercurio. p. 404.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>On line at</span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012105"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #11593c;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0012105</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn9">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[9]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Correa Vergara, Luis. 1938.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>Agricultura Chilena, tomo II.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>Santiago: Imprenta Nascimenta. p. 306</span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn10">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[10]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Sudy Bustamante, Ana X and Pablo
Cortés Tirado. 2012. Aceite de oliva. Oficina
de Estudios y Políticas Agrarias, Ministerio de Agricultura, Gobierno de
Chile. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/doc/4878.pdf">http://www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/doc/4878.pdf</a></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn11">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[11]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> International Olive Oil Council (November
2012) PDF charts on line at <a href="http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/estaticos/view/131-world-olive-oil-figures">http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/estaticos/view/131-world-olive-oil-figures</a></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn12">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[12]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Chile Olive Oil, Extra Virgin Journey, on line at <a href="http://www.chileoliveoil.cl/extra-virgin-journey/">http://www.chileoliveoil.cl/extra-virgin-journey/</a></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn13">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Olive%20blog.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[13]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Gay, Claudio. <i>Op cit.</i></span> </div>
</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-49780662592524963432013-06-05T17:58:00.000-04:002013-06-20T10:37:43.913-04:00Eating Chilean Pantrucas—noodles<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><br />If you, by some old man’s
whim, should decide to go to a “creole” restaurant or to one that is
“Chilenized” to ask for </span></i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">pancurita<i>s in tongue broth, or </i>pancuritas<i> by themselves, it is very possible that
they would kick you out, or at the least, look discourteously down their noses
while the “chef” grumbles something like “What kind of restaurant does this guy
take us for?<br /> <o:p></o:p></i></span><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> </span></i><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Never the less …. pancurtas
or panturcas, perfectly made, are as good as the best Italian raviolis and are
one of the foundations of our cuisine.</span></i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">(Enrique Lafourcade, <i>La Cocina Erótica del
Conde de Lafourchette</i>, <span style="background: white;">Lom
Ediciones, 1997<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span> p. 22,
all translations are mine)<o:p></o:p></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Pantrucas</span></i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">, <i>pancurtas</i>
or <i>pancuritas,</i> as Lafourcade’s
fictional count calls them (making them even more homey in the diminutive), are
simple noodles of flour, water, salt and fat—and sometimes an egg—rolled out
thin, cut into squares and added to soup.
<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSszgavsMgdQ07iYdEZuAnN993KUs4tM-QLksm6UyyJmD4LCoIQgcf9FVdz14HPTP7WKmsSRihB8MtjPtUsdOQL5bPGA6jEIQqDaNRxiKMUMc_FmrLBdK4GSUhTU3KAlyh_MFHicgF6Hj/s1600/New+Picture+(2).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSszgavsMgdQ07iYdEZuAnN993KUs4tM-QLksm6UyyJmD4LCoIQgcf9FVdz14HPTP7WKmsSRihB8MtjPtUsdOQL5bPGA6jEIQqDaNRxiKMUMc_FmrLBdK4GSUhTU3KAlyh_MFHicgF6Hj/s640/New+Picture+(2).bmp" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Pantrucas</span></i> in broth <span style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">photo: <a href="http://chileanflavor.blogspot.com/2010/02/pancutras-pantrucas-chilean-soup-with.html">Cuisine
with a Chilean flavor</a></span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Among
the more humble of Chilean dishes, they still have a place in Chileans’ hearts,
and are such an icon of home cooking that one of the US’s <a href="http://www.chilean-wine.com/chilean-restaurants-in-the-us">few</a>
Chilean restaurants took <a href="http://pantrucas.com/">Pantrucas</a> for its
name--though they don’t appear on the menu.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuiBtXHUwgjDRVrA4xHHEwZDhenJqraXHMjZr6PyR9JnKrFAUhguOdWgu__eVR8ONU0tmU3kqygXQntWeGMfzg-PCQmXZ-SvnH4xuWfQ7hKy7AyKZf4h6mM7P8-SnVcRwSQ6t53YnDJUI/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDuiBtXHUwgjDRVrA4xHHEwZDhenJqraXHMjZr6PyR9JnKrFAUhguOdWgu__eVR8ONU0tmU3kqygXQntWeGMfzg-PCQmXZ-SvnH4xuWfQ7hKy7AyKZf4h6mM7P8-SnVcRwSQ6t53YnDJUI/s400/New+Picture.bmp" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean
food blogs’ recipes for <i>pantrucas</i> are
fairly common; often with comments that they are an old family dish, usually
cooked in the broth from a holiday turkey carcass. Here’s a typical recipe from “<a href="http://cocineriachilena.blogspot.com/2009/12/pantrucas.html">Recetas
chilenas de cocina</a>” (Chilean kitchen recipes):<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Pantrucas</span></i> </span></blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The first thing is to prepare a substantial “full
bodied” broth. The old timers used the carcass of a roast turkey, boiled until
it had contributed all of its substance, or water where pork hocks, or pigs
feet, or pork-rolls (<i>arrollado huaso</i>)
had been cooked.</span></span></blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If you don’t have one of these, make broth by boiling
beef shanks with onion, carrot and green pepper for a couple of hours; strain
this soup and use the meat for another dish, or add it, finely chopped, to the <i>pantrucas.</i></span></span></blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">6 cups broth</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">2 egg yokes</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">2 tablespoons of minced parsley</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">1 tablespoon minced chives</span></span></blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">2 cups flour</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">1 egg</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">1 tablespoon vegetable oil</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">salt and warm water</span> </span></blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Make a soft dough with flour, egg, oil and warm
salt water. Roll out, cut into 1 ¼ inch squares
and add to the boiling broth. Once they
are cooked remove the soup from the fire and add one or two egg yokes beaten
with two tablespoons of water. Sprinkle
with minced parsley and/or chives.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One
community that continues to eat <i>patrucas</i>
regularly is that of Chile’s indigenous people, the Mapuche. In a recent food satisfaction survey of 400
Mapuches living in Santiago, <i>pantrucas</i>
were the “traditional Mapuche food” eaten by most respondents (92.5%) as well
as the most frequently consumed traditional food among 62% of respondents.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_edn1" name="_ednref1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> A survey by the same authors in Temuco, a
city in the Mapuche heartland, also found <i>pantrucas</i>
the most commonly eaten traditional food.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span> <span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>Origins</i></span><br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Maybe
Marco Polo brought noodles to Europe from China or maybe they had been there
since Etruscan times, but by the 16<sup>th</sup> century they were “widely
accepted in Spain”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span><!--[endif]--></span>,
and soon, whether remembered or re-invented, they were in Chile. Chilean historian Eugenio Pereira Salas tells us that by independence:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Chilean cuisine had assimilated the succulent menu
their ancestors tested over the aromatic wood fires of the colonial period …[including]
<i>refalosas </i>(“slipperies”) or<i>
pancutras</i> of wheat flour, fat, egg, and grated cheese; all in broth. </span></span></blockquote>
</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But foods, especially
humble ones, are not a frequent topic for writers, so the earliest mention of <i>pantrucas</i>
I’ve found in Chilean sources comes from considerably later. It is in Claudio Gay’s “Journey to Araucanía
in 1863.” There he found <i>pantrucas </i>to
be common among the Mapuche, made with “wheat kneaded with salt as in making
bread” and “torn into pieces by hand and boiled in water with fat, the water
serving as broth, and the dough is fried in a pan with a little fat and chili
for color.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So by mid 19<sup>th</sup>
century we have (at least) two ways of making <i>pantrucas</i>, each slightly
different from current recipes: the rural
Mapuche used a simple flour, water and salt dough, and if we can accepts Gay’s
description, fried them in fat as well as boiling; while in the city the dough included
fat, an egg and grated cheese and was served in broth.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And what of the name, “are
they called: <i>pantrucas</i> or <i>pancutras</i>?” The Chilean Linguistic
Academy answers:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It
is certain that both words can name this dish of indigenous<b> </b>origins that
has come to form a part of our national cuisine. Never the less, there are
differences in the use between the two forms.
The first, <i>“pantruca</i>,” predominates among persons of urban
culture; the second, “<i>pancurta</i>,” is the common form in rural areas. So it seems that there are two coexistent
terms to designate the same reality.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span><!--[endif]--></span></blockquote>
</div>
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Academy tells us that the two terms are equally valid, representing differing
urban and rural dialects, and notes in passing that they are “a dish of
indigenous origins.” Chilean Anthropologist
Sonia Montecino Aguirre agrees: “</span><i>Pantrucas </i>or<i> pancutras: </i>a dish made with pieces of
dough boiled in water or in broth. The
word is derived from the Mapuche.”<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_edn6" name="_ednref6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And to ice the cake, Arturo Hernández Sallés’ Mapudungun, Spanish, and English dictionary gives us the original Mapuche word: <i>Pangkutra</i>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It all makes perfect sense: inventive Mapuche housewives, needing simple ways to feed their families on wheat flour, adopted as a staple food during the wars with the Spanish invaders (see <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2011/01/mapuche-wheat.html">Mapuche Wheat</a>), mixed flour, water and salt and reinvented the noodle, naming the finished product “<i>pangkutras</i>,” which became <i>pancurtas</i> in Chile’s rural dialect and <i>panturcas</i> in the city.</span><div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Or so it seemed. </i></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then one day I was watching the Spanish language TV foodies on
ElGourmet.com when I heard a familiar word on a program abut the food of
Asturias, Spain: Mikel Alonso’s <span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> “</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://elgourmet.com/programa/el-camino-del-cantabrico"><span lang="EN-US">El camino del cantábrico</span></a></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">.” He
said: “<i>pantruques.</i>”<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And what the accompanying
picture showed were large lumpy dumplings floating in a bowl of bean, pork and
blood sausage stew called “<i>fabada”. </i><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></i><i><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lKMXiZhi_dxzs2xvi9y5xMU0kwZP8V4WfOdznNFA16SX8FLYHnLf35PP8g7yO4hUrAZYAUDik1AosZ5SGxOfWzrk86ijeGkJgoekYn-sOITnz8O8GuYdh-wuy0CwC5GZWvKkayAezncS/s1600/sidreria-casa-el-rubiu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5lKMXiZhi_dxzs2xvi9y5xMU0kwZP8V4WfOdznNFA16SX8FLYHnLf35PP8g7yO4hUrAZYAUDik1AosZ5SGxOfWzrk86ijeGkJgoekYn-sOITnz8O8GuYdh-wuy0CwC5GZWvKkayAezncS/s640/sidreria-casa-el-rubiu.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fabada
from Restaurante Sidreria Casa El Rubiu, Llanes, Asturias, Spain</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <span style="font-size: xx-small;">(Photo </span></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.tripadvisor.es/ShowUserReviews-g608994-d1001650-r115155252-Restaurante_Sidreria_Casa_El_Rubiu-Llanes_Asturias.html"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: xx-small;">TripAdvisor</span></a></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">)</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A
coincidence? Seems unlikely, although about
the only thing that Chile’s <i>pantrucas</i>
and Asturias’ <i>pantruques</i> have in common is
that both are dough cooked in broth. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But it’s not surprising;
I don’t imagine many of those Spanish conquistadores knew much about cooking
and dumpling are dumplings, <i>pantruques</i> are <i>pantrucas</i>. And they
still may have been reinvented by the Mapuche, even if a lost Asturian named
them.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">***************</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Having followed my story
this far, I can hardly leave you without recipes for <i>pantruques </i>and <i>fabada</i>. These
are from </span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Mariadelas,
an </span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Astorian who writes a food blog called “<i><a href="http://semequemalacomida.blogspot.com/2013/03/pantruque.html">Se me quema la comida<span style="font-style: normal; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">:</span></a></i>”<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">She says:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The
<i>pantruque</i> is a roll that we make here in Asturias to eat with any kind
of stew, <i>fabada</i>, <i>pote asturiano</i> (white bean and pork soup/stew)…
along with the cured meats (<i>compangu</i>: blood sausage, chorizo, bacon,
cured pork shoulder).</span></span></blockquote>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbAYdwHMozQC8lyEy-jrepLn5cJ0s33bYdlXmzT_SzXs4RC6BOaki45QUCseM_C8VVMltm-rmtOVxpyspxxQrvdNTj1A_vKsNH2igBvEBYh07Lh_vZ6oKxbMDUTIPfCOS2xZUZCwy7bkR/s1600/New+Picture+(3).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHbAYdwHMozQC8lyEy-jrepLn5cJ0s33bYdlXmzT_SzXs4RC6BOaki45QUCseM_C8VVMltm-rmtOVxpyspxxQrvdNTj1A_vKsNH2igBvEBYh07Lh_vZ6oKxbMDUTIPfCOS2xZUZCwy7bkR/s200/New+Picture+(3).bmp" width="181" /></span></a><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2
ounces bacon, finely minced</span></span></blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">½
minced onion</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">½
teaspoon paprika (<i>pimentón</i>)</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1
egg</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Salt</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span lang="ES-CL"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">Yellow corn meal</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span lang="ES-CL"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[endif]--></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Mix
the bacon with the onion, salt and paprika.
Add the egg and mix well. Add
corn meal a little at a time until you can form it into a roll. Not too much, it’s better if it’s a little
sticky. It helps to wet your hands in
water. Once you have made the roll, fry
it in oil until it is brown. When the
fabada or stew is ready, add the pantruque and cook for another 15
minutes. Serve in slices<i>.</i></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Mariadelas’ <a href="http://semequemalacomida.blogspot.com/2009/04/fabada-asturiana.html">recipe
for <i>fabada</i></a> she says:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwEW9vkpR3ZnOR7MhhVQFah4zI9J5nKnZz-m79xHfjazFut0qIol1ko8SdHDFoDmul1OPFo60P1hAJTthyjjWoZsaIzTCLKzLqjpp-aOOx7RRW3y_crOGzvW6hIcRscMZUk4dAdDs52fU/s1600/New+Picture+(2).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFwEW9vkpR3ZnOR7MhhVQFah4zI9J5nKnZz-m79xHfjazFut0qIol1ko8SdHDFoDmul1OPFo60P1hAJTthyjjWoZsaIzTCLKzLqjpp-aOOx7RRW3y_crOGzvW6hIcRscMZUk4dAdDs52fU/s1600/New+Picture+(2).bmp" /></a><br />
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Here
in Asturias, we call beans “<i>fabes</i>”(singular <i>faba</i>). <i>Fabada</i> is a typical regional dish; the
best known one. It is a substantial dish but here we eat it as a first
course. At fiestas we usually eat it
before the meat… and finish with rice pudding.
The first photo is what we call <i>compangu</i>. The bacon we use is the kind we call
“streaky,” mixed fat and lean, and the <i>lacón</i> is cured pork shoulder.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">2
lbs of large white beans (<i>fabes de la
granja</i>)</span></span> </blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3
blood sausages</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3
chorizos</span></span> </blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1
lb of <i>lacón</i></span></span> </blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><i> </i></span></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">3
oz of bacon</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Garlic</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">
</span></span><span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1
onion</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">1
tablespoon of oil</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A
stem of parsley</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Saffron</span></span> </blockquote>
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">
</span></span>
<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Singe
the <i>lacón</i> to remove any hairs and
soak overnight. Soak the beans overnight
too. Put the beans, <i>lacón</i>, blood
sausages, bacon, minced garlic, the onion cut into four pieces, the parsley and
the oil in a large pot, and cover with cold water and bring to a boil, skimming
off the foam. Once it has boiled, lower
the heat and cook for a while without a lit.
The beans need to remain completely covered in water or their skins will
come loose. Once and a while you should
“scare them,” by adding a half glass of cold water. Do this two or three times. Stir from time to
time to keep from sticking. Add crumbled
saffron. When the beans are done add
salt and remove the onion and parsley.
If the broth is very thin, mash some beans and return to the pot. It’s better the next day. Serve with a piece of blood sausage, chorizo,
bacon and <i>lacón</i> or what ever you like
from the <i>compangu</i>.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And of course, with <i>panturques</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mariadelas’ Fabada<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL"> Schnettler, Berta, <i>et. al.</i></span><span lang="ES-CL"> 2011. Satisfacción con la alimentación en personas
Mapuche en la Región Metropolitana de Santiago, Chile. </span>Arch Latinoam Nutr. 61(2): 172-182 on line at <a href="http://www.alanrevista.org/ediciones/2011/2/?i=art9">http://www.alanrevista.org/ediciones/2011/2/?i=art9</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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aculturacion<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">en el consumo de alimentos en la Region Metropolitana
de Santiago, Chile. </span>Arch Latinoam Nutr. 59(4): 407-418. On line at <a href="http://www.scielo.cl/pdf/rchnut/v39n1/art02.pdf">http://www.scielo.cl/pdf/rchnut/v39n1/art02.pdf</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
International Pasta Organization, History of Pasta.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.internationalpasta.org/index.php?cat=21&item=6%E2%8C%A9=2"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">http://www.internationalpasta.org/index.php?cat=21&item=6&lang=2</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Gay, Claudio.
“Viaje de la Araucanía en 1863,” as </span>quoted<span lang="ES-CL"> in Ricardo
Couyoymdjian, “Comiendo con los Indios
Testimonios de viajeros en la Araucana en el siglo XIX. In Carolina Sciolla,
Ed., 2010, Historia y cultura de la alimentación in Chile. Santiuago: Catalonia. P. 202.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Notas Idiomáticas, Academia Chilena
De La Lengua, Correspondiente de la Real Academia Española, , Director: Aifredo
Matus Olivkr N9i4 ABRIL 2000 on line at </span><a href="http://www.institutodechile.cl/lengua/notas/NI-14.pdf"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.institutodechile.cl/lengua/notas/NI-14.pdf</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Montecino Aguirre, Sonia.
2006. Identidades, mestizajes y
diferencias sociales en Osorno, Chile: Lecturas desde la antropología de la
alimentación. </span>PhD thesis, Leiden University. p. 186 on line at <a href="https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/handle/1887/4864">https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/handle/1887/4864</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Pantrucas-blank.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Hernández Sallés, Andres.
2003. Mapuche Lengua y Cultura
(Mapudungun, Español, Inglés). Pehuen, p 27<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Corn did not arrive in Asturias until early in the 17<sup>th</sup> century, so
the <i>pantruques</i> that early Spanish
colonists in Chile knew were different from today’s, perhaps made with chestnut
flour, an important dietary staple in pre-Columbian Asturias. Various European cuisines make chestnut
dumplings, but the only <a href="http://lacocinadebender.com/2010/bolas-castanas-receta-tipica-gallega/postres/">Spanish
chestnut dumplings</a> I found are sweet. </span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-32674460824913725652012-04-25T10:51:00.001-03:002013-06-10T17:17:09.604-04:00Blue-Egg Mapuche Chickens<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>The old stories speak of a pact between
the hens and the people of the land [the Mapuche]. The hens would give the people blue eggs and
the people of the land would care for them and honor them in ceremonies of
thanks and prayer. The bodies of the </i>collonca<i>s and </i>ketros<i> [chicken varieties] remember the pact and pass on the message of the
blue eggs when the pact is respected. Agélica
Celis Salamero</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></blockquote>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2An5gJNmILCcnkgjF_2hgTvXq9gLbT_PFsvMlWViCYhpvvl1vjvuxznXTicp7JlYSM8NMfYR9sRCwLxaU-QkM-qG-f8DU3BCz0Sb-IAzNd4SC8FLZdtjg2P5HC2T7vYjp-HlBu4U03nq/s1600/New+Picture+(3).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2An5gJNmILCcnkgjF_2hgTvXq9gLbT_PFsvMlWViCYhpvvl1vjvuxznXTicp7JlYSM8NMfYR9sRCwLxaU-QkM-qG-f8DU3BCz0Sb-IAzNd4SC8FLZdtjg2P5HC2T7vYjp-HlBu4U03nq/s400/New+Picture+(3).bmp" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Photo: </span><i style="line-height: 13.5pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://ln.fica.cl/muestra_noticia.php?id=653">Lanalhue
Noticias</a></span></i></span></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Blue-egg
chickens, <i>gallinas Mapuches</i>, or “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araucana">Araucanas</a>” to poultry
enthusiasts, first came to outside attention in 1921 when Spanish poultry
specialist Professor Salvador Castelló, announced their existence at the first
international poultry conference in The Hague.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Castelló
explained that on 6 August 1914, he had landed at the Chilean port of Punta Arenas
on the Strait of Magellan and had immediately noticed several hampers of
blue-shelled eggs. His first thought was
that they were ducks’ eggs. But the local people assured him that they were,
indeed, hens’ eggs and that many hens in southern Chile laid eggs of the same
color. This utterly astonished him,
because as he said ‘neither in Europe not in North America had he seen eggs of
this colour.’ Later in the company of
Chilean poultry breeders, Castelló toured a region of Chile where blue-egg
chickens were especially common. This was the rugged lake district of the
south-central part of the country, the homeland of the warlike Araucanian or
Mapuche Indians.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn2" name="_ednref2" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span></span></blockquote>
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<b>What was their origin?</b> The chickens’ wild ancestor, the Red
Junglefowl (<i>Gallus gallus gallus</i>), was
found from northeasterner India east to Indonesia, and seems to have been
domesticated by 4,000 years ago. In the
ensuing centuries it spread west to Europe and Africa and east to the Oceania. By 1492 domesticated chickens (<i>G. g. domesticus</i>) had been introduced
from Iceland, the westernmost outpost of European society, to Easter Island,
the eastern most landfall of the Polynesians.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span> </span></div>
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And
perhaps they were in South America too. In1532, when Spanish conquistador Pizarro
reached Peru, “he found that chickens were already an integral part of Incan
economy and culture, suggesting at least some history of chickens in the
region.”<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span>
</span>In 1590 Jesuit Fr. José de Acosta, in <i>The Natural & Moral History of the
Indies</i>, wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">….let
us now speake of tame fowle; I wondered that hennes, seeing there were some in
the Indes before the Spanish came there, the which is well approved for they
have a proper name of the country, and they call a henne a <i>Hualpa</i>, and the egge <i>Ronto</i>…<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span>.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Others
disagreed. “El Inca,” Garcilaso de la
Vega, son of a Spanish conquistador and an Inca noblewoman, whose accounts of
Inca history, culture and society are widely accepted, contradicted de Acosta’s
arguments and concluded “I have clearly proved that there were no Cocks or Hens
in Peru before the conquest…”<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span><!--[endif]--></span> </span> And when authoritative German naturalist
Alexander von Humboldt agreed in 1811that there were no pre-Colombian chickens
in the Americas, that put an end to the debate for a hundred years or so.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn7" name="_ednref7" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">But not forever.
In 1888, a newly graduated English engineer, 19 year old Richard (Ricardo)
Latcham arrived in Chile to build roads in the recently pacified Mapuche
homeland near today’s city of Temuco. He
lived there among the Mapuche for the next five years, making many friends,
learning the language and developing a fascination and respect for Mapuche culture. Moving to Santiago, he began to read
anthropology, develop his anthropological library and to publish technical
articles on the Mapuche and on Chilean archaeology—while still working as an engineer
and teacher of English.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn8" name="_ednref8" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">In
1921, while finishing his <i>Domesticated
Animals of Pre-Columbian America</i> he learned of Castelló’s report, which
coincided with his view that there were chickens in South America before the
conquest:</span></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It
is thought that in [pre-Colombian] America there were no true chickens, but
this is only partially true. It may be
that in North America there were none, but in South America there were several
species, distinct from those of the old world.
Not all these species have been classified, but in Chile, Bolivia and
Peru [there are] no fewer than three indigenous varieties or species, domesticated
by the native people…</span></blockquote>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Photo: </span><a href="http://www.granjaonline.es/viewtopic.php?t=34836&view=previous&sid=ad801dadeb4729c9333927f0af0a482e" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Juan Osvaldo</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">In Chile these
are called the <i>trintri</i>, with “curly
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<span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">…the </span><i style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">collonca</i><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">, which are small and tailless;</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">Photo: <i><a href="http://www.infogranja.com.ar/araucana1.htm">Asociación Argentina de
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<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">…and the <i>francolina </i>[or <i>ketro</i>], which Lacham thought to be a
variety of the <i>collonanas, </i>“that
carry a tuft of feathers on their heads that fall on all sides to the level of
their eyes. The country people call them
‘hens with ear rings.’ Like those above they lay blue eggs.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">Photo: <i><a href="http://kolloncas.blogspot.com/">Kollonca de Aretes<o:p></o:p></a></i></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="background: white; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">So if chickens were
in Chile before the Spanish, where might they have come from? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Europe?</span></b></h3>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">Maybe. The
earliest recorded introduction of Chickens to the Americas was in 1500, when Pedro
Álvares Cabral gave a single hen to a Brazilian Indian. But whether her offspring could have been
carried to Argentina, where they were reported by 1515</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">
or to Peru by 1532, when Pizarro arrived and they were already supposed “an
integral part of Incan economy and culture,” seems unlikely.</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Polynesia?</span></b></h3>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If chickens were
in western South America before the Spanish, a Pacific origin seems more likely
than a European one. Prehistoric
Polynesians spread chickens throughout the Pacific to Easter Island, the
eastern most Polynesian outpost, by the 1300s.
Since sweet potatoes – a South American plant domesticated in Peru by
around 2,000 BC – were in the central Polynesia by 1000 to 1100 AD it is very
likely that there was prehistoric contact between South Americans and Polynesians.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span>
And if sweet potatoes went west, chickens could have come east.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">The Evidence</span></b></h3>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Archeological evidence
shows domesticated chickens to have been in China before 5000 BC, in India by
2000 BC, and in Polynesia as early as 1000 BC. But of all the thousand’s of
archaeological excavations that have taken place in Peru, not one has reported
finding a pre-Columbian chicken bone. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">But they found 83
in Chile…. maybe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQ9_NXfB09nusnmYcHQ3VdhNDIHhAE0EbZ76MtjJ92mJzHCThykjzGRl9_u-ziKORvb3Yg-n_UrNKzHeS0qf3VlxJ7KpFWCKe3ouRdSFMNq0wQWN2lqOwfRdTAsgZzBS-t9CF56FoHTpc/s1600/Arauco2.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeQ9_NXfB09nusnmYcHQ3VdhNDIHhAE0EbZ76MtjJ92mJzHCThykjzGRl9_u-ziKORvb3Yg-n_UrNKzHeS0qf3VlxJ7KpFWCKe3ouRdSFMNq0wQWN2lqOwfRdTAsgZzBS-t9CF56FoHTpc/s200/Arauco2.bmp" width="194" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
In 2007 archaeologist
Alice A. Storey and her colleagues published an article on El Arenal-1, an
archaeological site near the central Chilean coast, about 530 Km south of
Santiago and 100 Km south of Concepcíon.
There they had found chicken bones radiocarbon dated to between 1321 and
1407 AD, well before Columbus and more than 100 years before chickens came to
Chile with Pedro de Valdivia in 1540.
Genetic analysis of the bones “produced an identical [mtDNA] sequence to
chicken bones from two prehistoric archaeological sites in the Pacific.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn12" name="_ednref12" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span> <o:p></o:p><br />
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;">But of course
their conclusions were not universally accepted. Jaime Gongora and his colleagues responded,
arguing that the mtDNA sequence of the Chilean finds also matched chickens from
Europe and “all over the world,” contradicting the view that they were of
specifically pacific origins. They also questioned the dating, arguing that the
site’s location near the coast suggested that the chickens’ diet might have
included shells or fish scraps which would have introduced carbon from marine
sources into their bones, yielding inaccurately old radiocarbon dates.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 13.5pt;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><br /></span></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://une-au.academia.edu/AliceStorey/Papers">Alice Storey and unidentified chicken</a></span><span style="line-height: 13.5pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0hNIe6LtvF08LWt7-i9YNzh0icm4xPsDsliiotcKPuLzXGdFhTm4on1YzuJCcEKesriapOzpbBOGrA__xXR_qqXQ_kcLWGiL3Y2XScVwHHVqJAfosz-B1T1q7UKh48Losw2UoJuxsktaj/s1600/New+Picture+(6).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0hNIe6LtvF08LWt7-i9YNzh0icm4xPsDsliiotcKPuLzXGdFhTm4on1YzuJCcEKesriapOzpbBOGrA__xXR_qqXQ_kcLWGiL3Y2XScVwHHVqJAfosz-B1T1q7UKh48Losw2UoJuxsktaj/s200/New+Picture+(6).bmp" width="115" /></a></div>
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Storey
and her colleagues replied, arguing that
“Ultimately, the question rests on the antiquity of the El Arenal chickens,”
and that chemical analysis of the bones demonstrated that the chickens “did not
derive protein from marine sources and thus did not require a marine offset
correction to their radiocarbon ages.” Further, they argued that the bone dates
were consistent with dates on other material from the site, and that no post
Colombian artifacts were found on the site.
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">So, what to
conclude? Storey and her colleagues make
a good case for pre-Colombian dates on the El Arenal-1 chickens, but if there
were chickens in South America before the Spanish, and especially if they were
“an integral part of Incan economy and culture,” it is difficult to explain why
chicken bones have not been found at any other Peruvian or Chilean sites. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">But perhaps some
were. Storey and her colleagues suggest
that archaeologists working along the Pacific coast of South America re-examine
the faunal collections from their sites. “Remains such as bones of chickens or
pigs which may have been classified as intrusive previously may provide
evidence of other points of contact between Polynesia and the Americas.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: large;">And what of the Blue-egg Mapuche Chickens?</span></span></b></h3>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">As part of their
examination of the origins of chickens in South America Storey and her colleagues
considered the possibility that the blue-egg chickens are descendants of the El
Aremal-1 birds. They found a complicated
story. Castelló originally described the
chickens as being tailless, having ear tufts and laying blue eggs, and these
became the defining characteristics of the poultry fanciers’ Araucanas. He later discovered that the birds he
described had been bred recently from a cross between a blue-egg tailess hen
and a rooster with ear tufts. Both the tailess trait and the trait for ear
tufts are also found in European chickens, and that may be their origin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Of the blue egg
trait, which seems to be indigenously Chilean<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span>,
they found no mention prior to about 1880. Darwin, who was in Chile in 1834-35 and
who wrote extensively about chicken varieties in <i>The Origin</i> made no mention of blue eggs. As Storey says, “it seems unlikely that if
blue eggs had been available in markets as they were in the early 1900s, that
Darwin would have missed them.” </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[15]</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn15" name="_ednref15" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">So Mapuche
blue-egg chickens appear to be a relatively recent development, the result of a
mutation sometime back in chicken prehistory before 1880. But that makes them no less Mapuche chickens,
nor does it exclude the possibility that their ancestors included pre-Colombian
Chilean chickens--if they existed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Mapuche Blue-Egg Chickens today</span></b></h3>
<div>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Beginning in the
first years of the 21<sup><span style="font-size: xx-small;">st</span></sup> century, the Chilean Ministry of Agriculture
and other agencies, governmental and non-governmental, began programs to
encourage rural Chileans, Mapuche and mestizo, to raise blue-egg chickens under
artisanal and sustainable conditions and to promote their sale in local and
perhaps national markets. In the 20<sup><span style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup>
century blue-eggs had become increasingly rare as breeding among many chicken
varieties had resulted in a highly heterogeneous population of chickens in
rural south central Chile, so the project was also designed to restore and
improve the genetic characteristics of the earlier blue-egg lineages. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">While the
program’s success has not been completely evaluated there seems to have been progress
with the sale of 15.6 million blue eggs in the first year of the project. Today
you can often find vendors selling blue eggs along with garden produce on the
streets of Pucón and Villarica and the market in Temuco<span style="font-size: xx-small;">.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn16" name="_ednref16" title=""><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[16</span><span style="font-size: small;">]</span></a></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_edn16" name="_ednref16" title=""><!--[endif]--></a></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 13.5pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">But if that’s not
convenient, here are some <a href="http://huevosazules.wordpress.com/contactos/">Contacts
in the Valle del Itata</a>, and <a href="http://huevosazules.wordpress.com/contactos-villarrica/">Contacts in
Villarrica</a>. Or you can Google “<i>huevos azules en Santiago</i>” if you live
in the capitol. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL;">Photo: </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><a href="http://www.pnud.cl/boletin/2007-MAR-ABR/7.asp"><span lang="ES-CL">CETSUR</span></a></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Photo: <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><a href="http://bibliotecadigital.innovacionagraria.cl/gsdl/collect/publicac/index/assoc/HASH8d8c.dir/68_Libro_Gallinamapuche.pdf?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=prettyphoto&iframe=true&width=90%25&height=90%25"><span lang="ES-CL">Ministerio de Agricultura</span></a></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: ES-CL;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Mapuche egg recipes</span></b></h3>
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Once you have
your blue eggs, you’ll want to prepare them traditionally (unless you plan to
incubate them), so here are a few recipes:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>“Flour and egg soup for breakfast</b>: This
was used long ago to give the men energy before they went to work. Fry a little onion, garlic and vegtables add
potatoes cut into pieces and boil. Add
toasted flour and allow to boil again.
At the end season and add one egg per person. The eggs should be opened at one end with a
fork and then beaten through the opening, then added to the soup in a thin
stream.” <i>Marina Recabarren</i> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
“Here
in Tucapel a <b>Chicken <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/cazuela-chilean-comfort-food.html">cazuela</a></i>
with home made noodles </b>is very typical.
Take one egg per person and add sifted flour and water to make a soft
dough and about 10 minutes before serving, drop the dough into the boiling <i>cazuela</i> by pushing through the tines of
a fork. They come out like little
noodles, short and very pretty.”<span style="font-family: Sylfaen; font-size: 9.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Sylfaen;"> </span><i><span lang="ES-CL">Francisca
</span></i><i>Paredes.</i> </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
“They are used a lot in deserts to sweeten
the day, like <b>Leche Asada </b>[aka
flan]. Boil a liter of milk with cinnamon, cloves, and vanilla. Beat 6 eggs with a cup of sugar, add the
milk, beat again and strain through a colander. Bake until done, about 30
minutes in a wood fired oven.<span style="font-family: Sylfaen; font-size: 10.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Sylfaen;"> </span><i>Marina Recabarren</i><span style="font-family: Sylfaen;"><span style="font-size: 9.5pt;">.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[17]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Huevos Azules de Gallinas Mapuche, on line at <a href="http://huevosazules.wordpress.com/">http://huevosazules.wordpress.com/</a> All translations mine unless otherwise noted.
</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn2">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Langdon, Robert. 1989. When the Blue-Egg Chickens Come Home to Roost: New
thoughts on the Prehistory of the Domestic Fowl in Asia, America and the
Pacific Islands</span></div>
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Journal of Pacific History Vol. 24, No. 2, pp.
164-192.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Chicken, <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Wikipedia;
Icelandic Chicken, Wikipedia.</span></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn4">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"> </span></span><span class="reference-text"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Storey A. A., <i>et al</i>., "Radiocarbon and DNA
evidence for a pre-Columbian introduction of Polynesian chickens to
Chile", Proceedings of the
National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America.</span></span></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn5">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> Acosta, José de. 1880. The Natural &
Moral History of the Indies<i>. </i>Reprinted
from the English Translation of Edward Grimston, 1604. Vol 1. London: Haklupt Society. p. 276. </span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Garcilaso De La Vega</span><span lang="ES-CL">,
El Inca, 1688. </span>The<i> </i>Royal
Commentaries of Peru in Two Parts<i> </i>London:
Miles Flesher. p. 386.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Langon, <i>op cit.</i></span></div>
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
From 1928 to his death in 1943 Latcham was Director of the Chilean National Museum
of Natural History.</span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn9">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Latcham, Ricardo E. 1922 Los
animales domésticos de la América precolombiana. Santiago. p. 177.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> Ibid,
p. 9.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Montenegro, A.,C. Avis and A.J. Weaver, Modeling the pre-historic arrival of
the sweet potato in Polynesia, Journal of Archaeological Science,35, 355-367 on
line at <a href="http://www.climate.uvic.ca/people/alvaro/SPotato.pdf">http://www.climate.uvic.ca/people/alvaro/SPotato.pdf</a></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a> <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"> </span></span><span class="reference-text"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">A. A. Storey et
al., <i>op. cit.</i></span></span><i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
</div>
<div id="edn13">
<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[13]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Gongora J, <i>et al</i>. Indo-European and
Asian origins for Chilean and Pacific chickens revealed by mtDNA. Proc Natl
Acad Sci USA. 2008;105:10308–10313. On
line at <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2492461/">http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2492461/</a></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[14]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
There is also a Chinese blue-egg chicken, the Dongxiang blueshelled, which has
the same gene for shell color as the Araucana. I found no evidence concerning
its relation to the Araucana, if any.
See Zhao, R, <i>et al</i>. 2006. A
Study on Eggshell Pigmentation: Biliverdin in Blue-Shelled Chickens. Poultry
Science 85:546–549. On line at <a href="http://ps.fass.org/content/85/3/546.full.pdf">http://ps.fass.org/content/85/3/546.full.pdf</a>
</span></div>
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[15]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a>
Storey, A.A., <i>et al </i> 2008. Pre-Columbian chickens, dates, isotopes
and mtDNA. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 105(48): E99., and Storey,
A.A, <i>et al</i> 2011. Pre-Columbian chickens of the Americas:
a critical review of the hypotheses and evidence for their origins. Rapa Nui Journal <span style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Vol. 25 (2) on line at </span><a href="http://une-au.academia.edu/AliceStorey/Papers">http://une-au.academia.edu/AliceStorey/Papers</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoEndnoteText">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref16" name="_edn16" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[16]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Fundación para la Innovación
Agraria, Ministerio de Agricultura. 2009. Resultados y Lecciones en Selección y
Manejo de la Gallina Mapuche Productora de
Huevos Azules. Serie Experiencias De Innovación Para El Emprendimiento
Agrario. On line at </span><a href="http://bibliotecadigital.innovacionagraria.cl/gsdl/collect/publicac/index/assoc/HASH8d8c.dir/68_Libro_Gallinamapuche.pdf?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=prettyphoto&iframe=true&width=90%25&height=90%25"><span lang="ES-CL">http://bibliotecadigital.innovacionagraria.cl/gsdl/collect/publicac/index/assoc/HASH8d8c.dir/68_Libro_Gallinamapuche.pdf?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=prettyphoto&iframe=true&width=90%&height=90%</span></a><span lang="ES-CL">, and Moya Azcárate, Rita. 2004 Gallina De Huevos
Azules: contribuciones a la elaboración de un protocolo. Línea Transversal Biodiversidad no cultivada
y semidomesticada. América Latina Red CBDC.
</span>On line at <a href="http://www.cetsur.org/wp-content/uploads/gallina-de-huevos-azules-contribuciones-a-la-elaboracion-de-un-protocolo.pdf">http://www.cetsur.org/wp-content/uploads/gallina-de-huevos-azules-contribuciones-a-la-elaboracion-de-un-protocolo.pdf</a></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Animals/Blue%20egg%20mapuche%20chickens.doc#_ednref17" name="_edn17" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><!--[if !supportFootnotes]--><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[17]</span></span><!--[endif]--></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Moya A., <i>op cit</i>, p. 20.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-9456369907704921882012-01-25T14:13:00.005-03:002018-04-28T18:23:14.337-03:00Do they eat Chilean Seabass (Dissostichus eleginoides) in Chile?<div class="MsoNormal">
The short answer is “almost never,” but there’s more to it than that.</div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Fish names are funny things. Wherever they went, European colonists called the local fish by the names of fish back home in Europe. So the European perch (genus <i>Perca</i>) gave its name not only to the North American yellow perch, but to over a dozen other fish including the Nile perch and the Chilean <i>percha de boca chica</i> (smallmouth perch). Similarly “bass,” from Middle English <i>bars</i> (also meaning "perch") became the white bass, the black bass, and lots of kinds of “sea bass” including, of course, the “Chilean Seabass.” In this case however, it was not homesick colonials, but seafood marketing gurus (the same folks who turned “Slimeheads” into Orange Roughy) that came up with the name. They evidently thought that neither “Patagonian toothfish,” the species’ official English name, nor any of its Chilean names <i>merluza negra</i>, <i>bacalao austral</i> or </span><i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">bacalao</span></i><span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> </span></i></span><i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">de profundidad</span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> (“black hake,” “southern cod,” or “deep sea cod”) would be a plus on US restaurant menus or in supermarket fish cases.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Patagonian toothfish (</span><i><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Dissostichus eleginoides)</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></i><br />
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Back in Chile restaurant owners were having a similar problem with their fish names. Many up-scale (and some decidedly mediocre) restaurants provide English translations of their menus, giving sometimes useful and sometimes bizarre names to their dishes. The most notorious is probably <i>locos con mayo</i>, Chilean abalone with mayonnaise, sometimes translated as “crazies with May.” One of Chile’s most popular and common fish, the <i>corvina</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[1</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: xx-small;">]</span></span></span>,<i> </i>is called the “corvina drum,” or “Chilean croaker” in English, but neither “drum” nor “croaker“ is likely to attract English speaking tourists. So what to call it?</div>
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<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: center;">Corvina (<i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Cilus gilberti</span></i></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">)</span></span></span></div>
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<o:p> </o:p><i><span style="font-size: large;">Why not “Chilean sea bass?”</span></i></div>
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Of course the reason “why not” is that many English speaking tourists know that “Chilean sea bass,” AKA Patagonian toothfish, is one of those fish on the <a href="http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?gid=11"><b><span style="color: red;">AVOID</span></b> list</a> for the ecologically conscious. The resulting confusion prompts lots of questions. And some happy, if mistaken, consumers. <a href="http://wanderingtrader.com/chile/santiago/best-things-to-do-see-in-santiago-chile-tourist-attractions/">One visitor</a> wrote “I was able to buy Chilean Sea Bass [at Santiago’s <i>Mercado Central</i>] which retails at $20 a pound in the U.S for under $5 a pound. Very good stuff.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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I’ve never seen or heard of Patagonian toothfish being served or sold in Santiago or anywhere else in Chile outside of the far south, although there are lots of dishes called “Chilean seabass.” So, if you are concerned (or thrilled) about eating dishes translated as “Chilean sea bass” in Chile, don’t be. Unless you happen to be in Chile’s southern-most city, Punta Arenas, you are probably getting <i>corvina</i>. And if you are in Punta Arenas where <a href="http://www.hostaljoshiken.cl/en/places-to-eat">several restaurants</a> serve it, it will be called “<i>merluza negra”</i> on the Spanish menu. (But if you do find some in Santiago, let me know.) <i><span style="color: red;">See comments.</span></i><o:p></o:p></div>
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Meanwhile the story of Chilean seabass/Patagonian toothfish is interesting in its own right.<i><span style="color: #666666; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">They occur throughout the southern oceans in cool temperate and sub Antarctic waters, from the east and west coasts of Patagonia eastwards through all of the sub Antarctic islands, submarine plateaus and seamounts to south of New Zealand, and probably in the far south Pacific between there and Chile as well. But since their habitat is in waters from 300 m to over 2000 m (1000 to 6500 feet) deep, they were unknown to science until F. A. Shmitt described and named them in 1898. And it was not until the 1980s that Chilean fishermen, who had been catching them while fishing for <i>merluza australis/</i>Australis hake, which were becoming scarce, began offering them on the commercial market.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: center;">Patagonial toothfish range in blue, Antarctic toothfish range in black</span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: “Chilean Seabass”</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Toothfish had also been appearing as “bycatch” in the nets of trawlers fishing the waters around the South Georgian Islands (SE of the Falkland Islands) in the 1970s and by the 1990s a fishery for toothfish had developed there as well, followed by Australian and South African fisheries in the southern Indian ocean, and by New Zealand in the Ross sea off Antarctica. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Why? </i></span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">The Patagonian toothfishery is a 'gold mine' fishery; it is a premium product, especially on the U.S. and Japanese market where it is sold for up to $30 U.S. per kilo, it is not a cheap product. When you can realize a lot of money from what may only be a few weeks of fishing, then the fishery becomes extremely attractive.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">And what makes it so valuable? “<a href="http://www.chefs-resources.com/ChileanSeaBass">Chef’s Resources</a>,” a web site whose “purpose is to provide culinary resources for chefs, foodies, and culinarians” says:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Chilean Sea Bass is</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> “</span></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">a wonderfully flavored fish with a high oil content which keeps it moist during<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span class="ilad"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">cooking</span></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">” and “which gives it a rich, moist, tender flavor profile which melts in your mouth. It has white flesh with large, tender flakes.”</span></blockquote>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWmdWdHeWfdw9xks0BC4FOIZDOBWMJsCOa2OgnMirEq0gyS393yrI0sQCNfbKOJfFy6TK7I-Yrw2LjfEyPy92JB-YukLmkmK4mzQnzvwR4LQp53tgp9AzyJJJMO6V2TnBLWiN6k-2Y5SG/s1600/New+Picture+(24).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWmdWdHeWfdw9xks0BC4FOIZDOBWMJsCOa2OgnMirEq0gyS393yrI0sQCNfbKOJfFy6TK7I-Yrw2LjfEyPy92JB-YukLmkmK4mzQnzvwR4LQp53tgp9AzyJJJMO6V2TnBLWiN6k-2Y5SG/s320/New+Picture+(24).bmp" width="320" /></a><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span></blockquote>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Nutritionally it is similar to salmon in calories, but with about 2/3 the protein and 1.4 times the fat. (And it's high in mercury; it's recommend that you eat it no more than 3 times a month.)</span></blockquote>
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<b><span style="color: #525453; font-size: 15pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 10pt; text-align: center;">Chilean Sea Bass Fillet</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #525453; font-size: 10pt; text-align: center;"> Photo: <a href="http://www.lemaitred.com/chilian-sea-bass/">Le Maitre d’ & Sommelier</a></span></div>
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It is a versatile fish which can be cooked with white chocolate or champagne. Ten, 10 oz. filets sell for $175</blockquote>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>So what’s the problem?</i></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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There are several: Only two of its fisheries have been certified as sustainable, toothfish sold as being from those fisheries may or may not be, much of the toothfish sold in the past was harvested illegally and some continue to be illegally caught today, the fishery has been responsible for the deaths of large numbers of sea birds; and it is very dangerous, having resulted in the deaths and injuries to fishermen and the loss of boats.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Sustainability </i><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";">[5]</span></span></span></span>:</span> The Patagonian toothfish is a large predatory fish that grows up to 2 meters in length, may weigh over 100 kg. and lives up to 50 years. They live from mid depths to near the bottom in cold southern waters. They take 6 to 9 years to grow to 70 to 95 cm in length and to become sexually mature. The Antarctic toothfish (<i>D. mawsoni</i>) which is sometimes caught with and sold as Patagonial toothfish, is slightly smaller and lives further south, but has similar characteristics. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Fisheries scientists have argued that heavy exploitation of slow-growing, low-fecundity deep-sea species is inherently unsustainable. The history of large-scale deep-sea fisheries has been a “boom-and-bust” pattern of rapid development, resource depletion, and very slow recovery. As such species, the two toothfishes would appear to be poor candidates for sustainable large-scale exploitation. Both species of toothfish grow slowly, reach sexual maturity after they reach market size, and live in a fragile ecosystem. All of these factors make them inherently vulnerable to overfishing. It is questionable whether large-scale exploitation of such a species could ever be considered sustainable<span style="font-size: xx-small;">.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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In fact however, two fisheries have now been certified as sustainable; the South Georgia Patagonian toothfish longline fishery and the Ross Sea Toothfish longline fishery are certified as sustainable to the standard of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span>, although the sustainability of the Ross Sea fishery has been challenged. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdRtLUCZSmOw0ymTlPIT0L7A43vXSfVnahPu6OGQoqHURJiSn_kx_kJajXIBHt81vrGX0jNyNPQ-EqGWJkmYkdl8czAJ4ptLNg54W5iZoIKJ0btazxdlnT1zHQ9x4eeCZKeZHIFzqj1sG/s1600/New+Picture+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdRtLUCZSmOw0ymTlPIT0L7A43vXSfVnahPu6OGQoqHURJiSn_kx_kJajXIBHt81vrGX0jNyNPQ-EqGWJkmYkdl8czAJ4ptLNg54W5iZoIKJ0btazxdlnT1zHQ9x4eeCZKeZHIFzqj1sG/s200/New+Picture+(1).jpg" width="148" /></a><i>Identity:</i> Toothfish from certified sustainable fisheries have the label at right, but all may not be well.<o:p></o:p></div>
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A [2011] study conducted by molecular geneticist Peter Marko of Clemson University in South Carolina and several colleagues found several irregularities. Posing as consumers, they bought single fillets of MSC-certified toothfish from supermarkets in 10 states across the United States. Then they looked at short genetic markers to identify the species. <a href="http://www.cell.com/current-biology/abstract/S0960-9822(11)00775-5"><span style="color: windowtext;">Three of the 36 fish samples turned out to be tuna, greenling, and mackerel</span></a>, the researchers report online today [<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">22 August 2011] </span>in <i>Current Biology</i>. When they examined DNA markers of the 33 actual toothfish, five of these fish had markers that differed from those of fish caught near South Georgia Island. All told, 22% of the samples appeared to be something other than MSC-certified toothfish. "I was stunned," Marko says. The trouble with selling consumers something other than what they want is that it can erode trust in the MSC brand, says Gulbrandsen, which is intended to generate profits that lessen the environmental impact of fisheries. <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";">[9]</span></span></span> [</span>emphasis in original]<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Illegal, unregulated and unreported (“IUU”) fishing: </i> Toothfish is very valuable, they are found in remote seas and historically there was little policing of the fishery, thus it is unsurprising that a great deal of illegal fishing went on in the past, and some continues today. From 1996-7 to 1999-2000 an estimated 49% of toothfish came from IUU fishing.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Australia’s legal catch quota is 2,900 mt/year, but, in 2003, Australian enforcement agencies estimated that 2,000 mt per month were fished illegally from Australian waters. TRAFFIC reports that the illegal fishery is dominated by Spanish owned fishing interests which employ vessels registered through “flag-of-convenience” states, such as Panama,Vanuatu and Belize. The Chilean fishing industry is alleged to be heavily involved in the illegal trade in toothfish. A good deal of illegal fishing is reported from the Indian Ocean sector of the subantarctic, including areas around Heard and MacDonald Islands. Ports known to support offloading of illegally-caught toothfish include Walvis Bay, Namibia ; Port Louis, Mauritius; Montevideo Port, Uruguay; and many ports in southern Chile. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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In the last decade policing has improved greatly. For example:<o:p></o:p></div>
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In February 2002, the Australian navy captured two Russian vessels fishing toothfish illegally off Heard Island. Some of the difficulties of toothfish enforcement are revealed in details of the story. To make the captures, armed Australian troops and fisheries officials were lowered from helicopters onto the Russian vessels in hazardous conditions of extreme cold and rough seas. The Australian enforcement personnel met resistance from the Russian crews.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; text-align: center;">Photos: Uncharted Waters </span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_edn12" name="_ednref12" style="text-align: center;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span></a></div>
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Thanks to this policing and public awairness, in recent years the IUU catch of toothfish has been dramatically reduced to around 4% of the total catch, according to COLTO (Coalitition of Legal Toothfish Operators). <span style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_edn13" name="_ednref13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";">[13]</span></span></span></a> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Bycatch:</i> Although some toothfish are caught by trawling, the most common method is called “longlining.” <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: 10pt;">Source: <a href="http://archive.greenpeace.org/oceans/southernoceans/expedition2000/expedition/longline.html">Greenpeace</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Photo: <a href="http://squid.tepapa.govt.nz/the-deep/article/toothfish-fishing">Toothfish fishing</a> <o:p></o:p></div>
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In this system an 8-12 kilometer main line is anchored to the ocean floor at both ends with marked radio beacons for later recovery. Thousands of baited hooks attached to the main line hang and float at the appropriate depths for toothfish, 800-2,500 metres below the surface. As these baited hooks are cast from the vessel, albatrosses and other seabirds dive for the bait and swallow it, hook and all and are pulled under the water and drowned. In addition, losses to killer and sperm whales that eat the catch and frequently become tangled in the lines have averaged 5% of the total catch and up to 100% on some occasions. IUU fishermen have reportedly attacked whales with dynamite.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Fortunately a new longline system has been developed and implemented in Chile that is reported to have virtually eliminated deaths of birds and substantially reduced the loss to whales by 2006. The extent to which it has been adopted in other fisheries is unknown.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Danger to fishermen and rescue expenses</i><i>:</i> Although the toothfishery is not inherently more dangerous than other fisheries, recent incidents in the Ross Sea by unprepared boats or careless crews have cost many lives and great expense. In December 2010 a South Korean fishing boat capsized in the Ross Sea killing half its 42 man crew, and<span class="apple-converted-space"> in December 2011 </span><i>Sparta</i>, a Russian-flagged vessel that was not ice-strengthened, <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/nelson-mail/news/6235218/Freed-Sparta-makes-it-into-port"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none;">hit ice that</span></a> ripped a hole in the ship’s hull and requiring the Royal New Zealand Air Force to drop repair supplies to the crew by plane. Rescue efforts were hampered by heavy sea ice, with help only coming seven days later by the South Korean icebreaker <i>Araon</i>. Fortunately, the entire crew survived the ordeal. Another incident occurred on January 11, 2012, when the Korean fishing vessel <i>Jeong Woo 2</i> <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/timaru-herald/news/6256208/Injured-fishermen-land-in-Christchurch"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none;">experienced a fire on board</span></a>. Three crew members died, and several others were injured. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[15]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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I’ve never eaten Patagonian toothfish, and although I might try it if I go to where it’s caught by artisanal fishermen (Punta Arenas or Ushuaia in Argentinean Tierra del Fuego),I’m not going to be looking for it in LA or Chicago. First it’s too damn expensive; and second, I’m not interesting in eating fish from fisheries that may or may not be sustainable. There are plenty of other fish in the sea. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span></span></a> “<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;">Corvina Drum is a popular fish in South America, but little information exists on its biology, abundance or fishery. They are found from Peru to Chile and around the Galapagos Islands, and are caught by hook and line, longline and gillnets. The abundance of Corvina Drum is not known but their landings have decreased over the past decade. Management is poor overall for Corvina Drum, and essentially the fishery is unregulated. Hook and line fisheries generally cause little habitat damage.” Blue Ocean Institute, Corvina Drum. On line at </span><a href="http://www.blueocean.org/seafood/seafood-view?spc_id=267">http://www.blueocean.org/seafood/seafood-view?spc_id=267</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span></span></a> Toothfish Fact sheet FAO 78—Chilean EEZ below 47°S. Coalition of Legal Toothfish Operators inc. On line at <a href="http://www.colto.org/fisheries/chilean-eez/">http://www.colto.org/fisheries/chilean-eez/</a> and Patgonian Toothfish, Center for Quantatitive Fishery Ecology, Norfolk, Virginia, USA on line at <a href="http://www.odu.edu/sci/cqfe/Research/Southern%20Ocean/Patagonian%20toothfish/Patagonian%20toothfish.htm">http://www.odu.edu/sci/cqfe/Research/Southern%20Ocean/Patagonian%20toothfish/Patagonian%20toothfish.htm</a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span></span></a>Cascorbi, Alice. 2006 (amended 2011) Chilean Seabass, Seafood Watch Seafood Report, Monterey Bay Aquarium. On line at </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span></span></a> <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Johnson, Genevieve. Voyage of the Odyssey, Log Transcript. On line at </span><a href="http://www.pbs.org/odyssey/odyssey/20020326_log_transcript.html">http://www.pbs.org/odyssey/odyssey/20020326_log_transcript.html</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span></span></a> <a href="http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sustainable">Merriam-Webster</a> defines sustainable as “being a method of harvesting or using a resource so that the resource is not depleted or permanently damaged.” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span></span></a> Cascorbi 2006. <i>Op. cit.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span></span></a> The MSC is an independent non-profit organization that has developed an environmental standard for sustainable and well managed fisheries. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[8]</span></span></a> Seafoos source staff. 2010. Ross Sea certification criticized. SeaffodNews Environment & Sustainability. On line at <a href="http://www.seafoodsource.com/newsarticledetail.aspx?id=8456">http://www.seafoodsource.com/newsarticledetail.aspx?id=8456</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[9]</span></span></a> <span style="color: #666666;">Stokstad, Erik. 2011</span><i><span style="color: #666666;">. </span></i> 'Eco-Friendly' Chilean Sea Bass May Not Be So Green. Science Now. On line at <a href="http://news.sciencemag.org/sciencenow/2011/08/eco-friendly-chilean-sea-bass-ma.html">http://news.sciencemag.org/sciencenow/2011/08/eco-friendly-chilean-sea-bass-ma.html</a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[10]</span></span></a> Cascorbi 2006. <i>Op. cit.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[11]</span></span></a> <i>Ibid</i>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[12]</span></span></a> Willock, Anna. 2002 Uncharted Waters: Implementation Issues And Potential Benefits of Listing Toothfish in Appendix II Of Cites. Traffic International. On line at <span style="background-color: white; color: green;">www.traffic.org/species-reports/traffic_species_fish20.pdf</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[13]</span></span></a> Toothfish fact sheet: The IUU fishery. COLTO. On line at <a href="http://www.colto.org/images/Draft-COLTO-IUU-Fact-Sheet.pdf">http://www.colto.org/images/Draft-COLTO-IUU-Fact-Sheet.pdf</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[14]</span></span></a> Moreno, C.A., R. Castro, L.J. Mújica and P. Reyes. 2008. Significant conservation benefits obtained from the use of a new fishing gear in the chilean patagonian tothfish fishery<b>. </b><i>CCAMLR Science</i>, Vol. 15: 79–91; Longline fishing, Grenpeace. On line at <a href="http://archive.greenpeace.org/oceans/southernoceans/expedition2000/expedition/longline.html">http://archive.greenpeace.org/oceans/southernoceans/expedition2000/expedition/longline.html</a>; and Patagonian Toothfish. Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Texts/Seafood/Toothfish%20post.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b>[15]</b></span></span></a> <span style="font-style: normal;">Christian, Clair. 2012. Dying for some fish. National Geographic Daily News. Tuesday, January 24, 2012 on line at <a href="http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2012/01/17/dying-for-some-fish/">http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2012/01/17/dying-for-some-fish/</a>, and Mussen, Deidre. 2012. Danger and death in the south's cruel seas. The Press. Jan. 12,2012. On line at <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/news/6255575/Danger-and-death-in-the-souths-cruel-seas">http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/news/6255575/Danger-and-death-in-the-souths-cruel-seas</a><o:p></o:p></span></span></address>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-2555209604858020782011-12-30T11:45:00.005-03:002012-02-16T11:32:27.368-03:00Eating Chilean Erizos, Sea Urchins<div style="background: white; line-height: 14.95pt; margin-left: .5in;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">Like </span><i style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">foie gras</i><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">, egg yolks and pork belly, sea urchins have a lusciousness and weight that make chefs drool. “The mouth-feel is pure cholesterol,” said Michelle Bernstein-Martinez …who helped create a pressed sea urchin sandwich that is legendary in food circles.</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">She spreads slabs of Cuban bread with soy-ginger-flavored butter, stuffs the bread with sea urchins and presses the sandwich on a hot griddle until crisp and melting. “I eat it all day long — the only problem is that I am eating my profits.</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">“</span><a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/13/dining/13uni.html?pagewanted=all" style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">Escape from the Sushi Bar</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">,” Julia Moskin, </span><i style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">New York Times</i><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.95pt;">, May 12, 2009.</span></span><span style="background-color: #fefefe; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 15.6pt; text-align: center;"> </span></blockquote><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcOsT8xFm70CDE_vSWZhKDYGyxN8LAiEI_jXtDNsU2jrs6f3dFFkBBMNjMBV7hZMvrWVaSwgahWN92ZfmDLUeASkaSkSdWVS72EW5W7MgUOh8GZjmcOoesRQ8djLLwh2ao3dGWFUIQ9wA/s1600/New+Picture+%252816%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcOsT8xFm70CDE_vSWZhKDYGyxN8LAiEI_jXtDNsU2jrs6f3dFFkBBMNjMBV7hZMvrWVaSwgahWN92ZfmDLUeASkaSkSdWVS72EW5W7MgUOh8GZjmcOoesRQ8djLLwh2ao3dGWFUIQ9wA/s400/New+Picture+%252816%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a></div><h1 align="center" style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">Sea urchin sandwich: Flickr, </span><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hellokitty893112/3905043510/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">thewanderingeater</a></h1><h1 style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #fefefe; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">I</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">n case your experience with sandwiches in Chile has been limited to </span><i style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">completos</i><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;"> (hot dogs with everything) or </span><i style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">ave paltas </i><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">(chicken with avocado) something a bit more elegant is possible.</span><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">Of course you’ll have to make it at home, since the </span><i style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">sangüche de erizos</i><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;"> has not yet arrived at Santiago restaurants.</span><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 15.6pt;">But then it won’t cost you $15 plus air fare to New York either.</span></span></h1><h1 style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">A bit of history and biology</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h1><h1 style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">In spite of the lack of <i>sangüches de erizos</i>, sea urchins have been part of Chilean cuisine for millennia and continue to be popular today. Their remains are prominent in coastal archaeological sites dating back 11,000 years<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;">[1]</span></span></span> </span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">and were appreciated by the coastal Mapuche, who the Spanish met upon their arrival. The Spanish had known, eaten and used sea urchins of the Atlantic and Mediterranean medicinally, although I doubt that Chile’s conquistadors, who came mainly from landlocked Extremadura, knew much about them. Never the less, the young Chilean-Spanish soldier <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html">Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán</a>, who was captured and held prisoner by the Mapuche in the 1620s seems to have known enough to have mentioned <i>erizos</i> in his account of his “happy captivity.” <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h1><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the 1670’s Chile’s sea urchins were well enough know that Diego de Rosales’ wrote about them in his <i>Historia general de el Reyno de Chile</i>:</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWEUwObUpDcJrg450Ac3JHZD0tiGHm2EKt_JuI-R5x1KTwJlrkQO15XSwG60J7-eKMcctrPvzF-9Ur78U9LGm1BhbJrjsZCTs0gHRWl6VGvpilvucTwBFwfZIqxAZ3LbmJevAP7is9yZQ/s1600/New+Picture+%25289%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZWEUwObUpDcJrg450Ac3JHZD0tiGHm2EKt_JuI-R5x1KTwJlrkQO15XSwG60J7-eKMcctrPvzF-9Ur78U9LGm1BhbJrjsZCTs0gHRWl6VGvpilvucTwBFwfZIqxAZ3LbmJevAP7is9yZQ/s320/New+Picture+%25289%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sea urchins are round and flat, and defend themselves not only with their shell, but they also arm themselves with sharp spines, with which they are filled all round. …Enclosed inside is a meaty substance divided into tongue-like yellow forms… These tongues are soft and very tasty and greatly heat the stomach and easily provoke urination.<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span></blockquote><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52ax3W69oPhxroIf6_ysXJaVYE7OzgW2KHWc0CCeYX6gzb1hh2_z4-w0I20fLNCWt-6miFmuOSpP5g66S8BL0L4R-uQPEc9F1-8jVfHcl2gG42vNqlBvmQPhq9TelBJieapaoOYN8DiuY/s1600/New+Picture+%252811%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh52ax3W69oPhxroIf6_ysXJaVYE7OzgW2KHWc0CCeYX6gzb1hh2_z4-w0I20fLNCWt-6miFmuOSpP5g66S8BL0L4R-uQPEc9F1-8jVfHcl2gG42vNqlBvmQPhq9TelBJieapaoOYN8DiuY/s640/New+Picture+%252811%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> Loxechinus albus<b> </b></span></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">photo: </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"> </span><a href="http://smsg-falklands.org/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=2&pos=10" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Shallow Marine Surveys Group</a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">He also says that they have a little crab inside with which, when food is scarce, “they sustain themselves, they eat them,” and in fact there are species of small pea crabs that are found inside sea urchins in the Caribbean… and perhaps in Chile too.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span> But I don’t think the urchins eat them.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><h1 style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">One hundred or so years later, Abate Molina, Jesuit naturalist Juan Ignacio Molina, also wrote abut Chilean sea urchins:</span></span></h1><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The <i>Echinos</i><span style="font-size: small;"> or sea urchins are divided into several species, the most notable being the white urchins and the black urchins. The white ones, </span><i>Echinus albus</i><span style="font-size: small;">,</span></span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-weight: normal;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">[now <i>Loxechinus albus</i> (Molina, 1782)]</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">are globular, three inches in diameter; they have a white shell and spines and the internal substance, which is extremely delicious, is of a profoundly yellow [<i>amarizllazo</i><span style="font-size: small;">] color. …The Chilean Indians call them </span><i>jupe</i><span style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></span></blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDHxtYtNdz_krlt1d3LG3lh54UXI2mvTHoIX3DtWMlYfvfwaWVZKTeedUnCdCMRysdKYrHMZfqvYTi1w7-ESr9tDNBx0l0EevFdEYN9oPKuI3oYcNY4zobUbsavnVnzYzkpXNpbyH7V4xu/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDHxtYtNdz_krlt1d3LG3lh54UXI2mvTHoIX3DtWMlYfvfwaWVZKTeedUnCdCMRysdKYrHMZfqvYTi1w7-ESr9tDNBx0l0EevFdEYN9oPKuI3oYcNY4zobUbsavnVnzYzkpXNpbyH7V4xu/s400/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Black urchins, <i>Echinus niger</i><span style="font-size: small;">,</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">[now <i>Tetrapygus niger</i> (Molina, 1782)]</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">are oval in shape, somewhat larger than the white ones, and have black spines, shell and eggs; they are called devil’s urchins, and they are never eaten.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[<span style="font-size: xx-small;">4]</span></span></span></blockquote><h1 style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The eatable part, the tongue-like yellow substance inside the urchins, is its reproductive organs which produce egg in females and sperm in males. Both are eaten and are usually called sea urchin roe or corals.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span></span> The white sea urchin (called the “Chilean red sea urchin” in the trade), from the near shore waters of Chile and Peru, is one of hundreds of species found in shallow ocean waters world wide. They feed mainly on sea weeds, but can also eat invertebrates like sea cucumbers, mussels, and sponges. Sea urchin populations sometimes explode, whether from overfishing of their predators (including lobsters, and sea otters) or for unknown reasons, and eat everything eatable on the ocean floor leaving decimated “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urchin_barren">urchin barrens</a>” behind. <o:p></o:p></span></span></h1><h1 style="background: #FEFEFE; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 9.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 9.0pt;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Once sea urchins had been described by Chile’s great colonial period naturalists, they ceased to exist—at least in writing—until resurrected by foreign visitors who found Chileans’ humble every-day foods interesting. Their next appearance in literature seems to be in 1878, when Englishwoman Mrs. (Baroness Anna) Brassey saw (but seems not to have eaten) urchins</span><i style="font-size: 12pt;"> </i><span style="font-size: small;">in the Chilean port of Coronel in 1878. She called them “sea eggs.” <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></h1><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Drawn up by the side of the pier was a picturesque looking market boat full of many sorts of vegetables and sea eggs, with their spines removed, and neatly tied with rushes into parcels of three. The people seemed to enjoy them raw, in which state they are considered to be most nutritious; and when roasted in their shells or made into <i>omelettes</i> they are a favorite article of food with all classes.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If urchins were a “favorite food with all classes” in the 1870s they have now fallen from favor. Only 2% of Santiago residents surveyed in 1999 said that they ate urchins “frequently,”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span> but then all seafood consumption has fallen sharply in Chile. Average per capita consumption in is only 7 Kg. per year. (see <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/eating-chilean-fish.html">Eating Chilean Fish</a>) compared to a world average of 17 Kg. (2008).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiY6InxAg_cWsZOOdeWEBwGYqLQ-4p9ckLk95JxQethxuua_jug9CrDkrSjf4HW_-qAJEkTdROrcSHkqe6w9z-F6yNkZdKi8QWop2FiPbR9uM1AwMtM3dMxJUhKPsHH5SptO5pleC5EgU/s1600/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqiY6InxAg_cWsZOOdeWEBwGYqLQ-4p9ckLk95JxQethxuua_jug9CrDkrSjf4HW_-qAJEkTdROrcSHkqe6w9z-F6yNkZdKi8QWop2FiPbR9uM1AwMtM3dMxJUhKPsHH5SptO5pleC5EgU/s400/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But some Chileans, mainly from the upper socioeconomic classes, continue to enjoy urchins, usually raw with a green sauce of parsley, onion, lemon juice and a little oil (at right); in a <i>tortilla </i>(omelet) <i>de erizos</i> like the ones Mrs. Brassey saw; or in sauces that adorn other seafood.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></span></b></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Photo: <a href="http://www.bootsintheoven.com/boots_in_the_oven/2011/07/iquique-chile.html"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Boots in the Oven</span></a></span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">A few recipes:</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The current issue of <i>Paula</i>, Chile’s best known magazine of food, home and style provides an article on urchins, “<a href="http://www.paula.cl/blog/cocina/2011/01/31/banquete-de-erizos/">A Banquet of sea Urchins</a>” including a recipe for a <i>Tortilla de Erizos.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br />
</i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaXZOErmJsYQ_WcwHB0FT-G11QQrAGiQ1AvXTYW4JYWJwXOETZX-ceC4dd3DjZn1gDJG5zAW7slWCnvIWnVfaXu0UQzlIHBClOMlOMV0TqKbGVROr1QQ0Sx0Ha5PYNm1FYaVEJflL93Cs/s1600/New+Picture+%252819%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaXZOErmJsYQ_WcwHB0FT-G11QQrAGiQ1AvXTYW4JYWJwXOETZX-ceC4dd3DjZn1gDJG5zAW7slWCnvIWnVfaXu0UQzlIHBClOMlOMV0TqKbGVROr1QQ0Sx0Ha5PYNm1FYaVEJflL93Cs/s400/New+Picture+%252819%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></i><i><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sea urchin sauce is also popular over baked or poached fish, in this case <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/eating-chilean-fish.html">corvina</a></i>, as in this recipe from the 1911 Chilean cookbook, <i>La negrita Doddi.</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><div style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Salsa de Erizos</span></i></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i></i></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>(for <i>corvina</i>)</i></span></div></blockquote><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p> </o:p>In a skillet melt 50 grams [3 ½ T] of butter or lard with 30 grams [¼ cup] of flour and mix until well blended. Add salt and pepper and 200 ml. of [fish] stock and bring to a boil. Remove from the shell and rinse some sea urchin tongues and add to the sauce, continuing to stir until it comes to a boil, and then remove from the stove. Just before serving add 30 grams of butter [2 T], cut into small pieces to melt quickly, and stir gently. Add a few drops of lemon juice if you wish.</span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And from the same period, here’s a recipe for a Sea Urchin Soup (<i>caldillo) </i>from the magazine <i>Familia</i> of August, 1912.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Caldillo de Erizos<o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fry a little flour in butter and <i>color</i> [paprika or ground chili], add onion cut in <i>plumas</i> (sliced vertically) and the urchin tongues, and cover with the liquid from the urchins and when hot add oregano, cumin, salt and pepper. Allow to boil a little while. Then add an egg beaten with milk and lemon juice. Serve with slices of toast. </span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A little history, a few recipes; that’s about all there is to say about Chilean sea urchins…. Or is it?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Globalization</span> </span></div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile’s sea urchin fisheries are the largest in the world and have been contributing more than 50% of the world’s production since the mid-1990s. "Sea Urchin Fishery Profiles," 2006<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p> </o:p>Impetus for this development was not that Chileans suddenly renewed their taste for this traditional product; it was the Japanese. Fresh sea urchins roe, <i>uni</i>, eaten raw as sushi or sashimi is among the most desirable foods in Japan, and the Japanese are the world’s major importers and consumers of sea urchins, importing 246 million dollars worth in 2002.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Uni sushi </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; text-align: center;">in two colors: Photo </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.tan-w.net/archives/tag/%E9%9B%B2%E4%B8%B9">徒然日記</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Japan was the also world’s largest harvester of sea urchins until 1984. But since the 1970s Japanese harvests have declined steadily, due mainly to sea urchins’ declining abundance. The 2002harvest of 13,000 metric tons (mt) was less than half of the record landings of 1969. In 1985 the Chilean harvest surpassed that of Japan and since 1987 harvests in both Chile and the United States have exceeded Japanese landings.<span style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.5pt;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Japanese imports increased tenfold from 1,779 mt ($20 million) in 1975 to 18,535 mt ($246 million) in 2002 when they supplied 88% of consumption. Roe prices have fluctuated from 1986 to 2002 depending on supply, with Japanese roe ranging from about 7,500 to 13,000 yen/kg and imported roe selling for from 5,200 to 6,700 yen/kg in Tokyo’s central wholesale market. Meanwhile, the Japanese yen has surged against the US dollar so that average 1986 import prices of 6786 yen/kg had a value of $33/kg and average 2002 import prices of 5278 yen/kg equaled $42/kg.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.5pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So Chile became the world’s major exporter of sea urchins. <span style="font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before about 1975 Chilean sea urchins were at best a minor element in Chile’s fishery, mostly collected by artisanal fishermen and their families wading in the surf zone of rocky shorelines during a few days each year with low tides and calm waters. The annual harvest was only a few thousand mt that were sold locally, but by 1975 the harvest had grown to 10,000 tons and reached 60,000 tons in 1992, the peak year. Remarkably, the Chilean catch seems to be sustainable—at least for now; it has been between 40 and 60,000 mt since the mid 1990s.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today, Chile’s <i>erizo</i> fishery is dominated by owners of <i>lanchas de accarreo</i>, carrier vessels, and small boat operators who work for them. The carrier vessels are 60 to 80 foot boats that guide, supply and collect the catch from fleets of a dozen or so <i>faenas</i>, small dive boats. The “hookah” divers who do the actual collecting are supplied with air through compressors and tubing, and harvest about 1000 lbs a day in 3 to 5 hours of diving. The crews of the <i>faenas</i> live on their boats for months at a time while harvesting the surrounding area. The carriers make almost daily roundtrips from the collecting areas, in the islands south of Chiloe Island, back to their home port of Quellon. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Dive boat with larger carrier (?) in the background photo: German Henriquez<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The carrier boats receive (as of 2007) about 240 centavos per kg. ($.48 US) of which about 70% goes to the divers. These urchins go to local processing plants where they are cleaned and shipped onward to be frozen for export to Japan. Local divers whose fresh whole <i>erizos</i> sell in local markets receive up to 1,000 pesos a kg.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgomcYdqMSWBEyh9R4LntdxKZrdIk-EU17pUsUxnHg6hiS3eKnId3dLOA4T8DCfAOiv37sroafJIdHXrdQ7IXUFUCUZGv-cl4skRAAwxalsAwcTmvVGIXj1aHlpPw9tqKkUk5TfFAOYDO/s1600/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgomcYdqMSWBEyh9R4LntdxKZrdIk-EU17pUsUxnHg6hiS3eKnId3dLOA4T8DCfAOiv37sroafJIdHXrdQ7IXUFUCUZGv-cl4skRAAwxalsAwcTmvVGIXj1aHlpPw9tqKkUk5TfFAOYDO/s400/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Sea urchin processing in Quellon, Chiloé island. (Photo: <a href="http://www.socproa.cl/sea-urchin/">Proa</a>)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p> </o:p> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time fresh urchins arrive in Santiago, the sell for 7-800 Chilean pesos each, about $1.35 to $1.50 each. By comparison in US you would pay $8 to $15 per urchin. And who knows what in Japan. I’ll eat mine here.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="ES-CL">Sea </span>urchins<span lang="ES-CL">, <i>Mercado Central</i>, <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span lang="ES-CL"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Santiago <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Photo: <a href="http://chileconkaren.blogspot.com/2011_02_01_archive.html">Chile con Karen</a><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></span></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sea urchins are also available from Maine where they are harvested by dredging, a method that is <b>not</b> sustainable and has a by-catch of everything on the bottom. Monterey Bay aquarium’s Seafood watch recommends that you <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?gid=96">avoid</a> </span>sea urchins from Mane.</span><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Should you try them? Perhaps quote from Julio Camba (1882-1962) Spanish journalist, writer and gourmand will encourage you.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></span></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And, by the way: If you are rich enough to worry about getting fat from eating sea urchins, you’re okay. They have only <a href="http://www.fitday.com/fitness/BrowseNutrition.html?_a_Date=1325203200.&_s_Amount=100.&_s_UnitKey=s-fd-fugram&_s_FoodPath=All_Foods%2FFish%2FRoe_sea_urchin.html">145 calories per 100 gm</a>. But don’t eat too many, they are high in cholesterol.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And for other Chilean seafood, see these links:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/eating-chilean-fish.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fish</span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/view-larger-map-salmon-cages-off-east.html"><span style="color: #400058;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Salmon</span></span></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/eating-chilean-mussels.html"><span style="color: #400058;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mussels</span></span></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2011/09/loco-over-locos-chilean-abalone.html"><span style="color: #b87209;">Locos, Chilean “abalone”</span></a> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/04/eating-jibia-chilean-humbolt-squid.html">Jibia, Humbolt Squid</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/06/machas-la-parmesana.html">Machas, Surf Clams</a></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2012/01/do-they-eat-chilean-seabass.html">Chilean Seabass (AKA Patagonian Toothfish)</a></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br clear="all" /> </span><br />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Alfaro, Silvia y Claudia Solervicens. ND. Prehistoria del Valle de Choapa. Codelco, ReCrea - Servicios Editoriales y Educativos Ltda. On line at </span><a href="https://www.codelcoeduca.cl/Chalinga.pdf"><span lang="ES-CL">https://www.codelcoeduca.cl/Chalinga.pdf</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span></span></a> <strong><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-weight: normal;">Rosales, Diego de</span></strong><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">. </span></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">1877. Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna. ed.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> </span></span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=2SaDFre_Ez4C"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #663366;">Historia general de el Reyno de Chile: Flandes Indiano (1425-1553)</span></i></a><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> </span></span><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">I</span></b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">. Valparaíso, Chile: Imprenta i Libreria del Mercurio. P. 304 All translations mine.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span></span></a> Pea crab. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. On line at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea_crab">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea_crab</a>. And thanks to the erudite members of WordReverence.com’s forum who helped me translate this quotation and knew that pea crabs live inside urchins.</span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Molina, Juan Ignacio. 1987. Ensayo sobre la historia natural de Chile : Bolonia 1810 Santiago : Eds. </span>Maule. p. 219.</span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span></span></a> Sea urchin. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. On line at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_urchin">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_urchin</a></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span></span></a> Mrs. (Ann) Brassey. 1881. A Voyage in the Sunbeam, our Home on the Ocean for Eleven Months. Chicago: Belford, Clarke & Co. p.159.</span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span></span></a> Soong, Roland. 2000. Eating Seafood in Chile. Zona Latina. On line at <a href="http://www.zonalatina.com/Zldata102.htm">http://www.zonalatina.com/Zldata102.htm</a></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[8]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Lawe. 1911 La negrita Doddy : nuevo libro de cocina, enseñanza completa de la cocina casera i parte de la gran cocina : con un apéndice de recetas útiles i de los deberes de una dueña de casa.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>Santiago<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>: Soc. </span>Impr. y Litogr., Universo. p. 28. On line at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012281"><span style="color: #11593c;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0012281</span></a></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[9]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Menoria Chelina. 2009 Para chuparse los dedos: Recetas de familia. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0052710">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0052710</a> </span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[10]</span></span></a> Sea Urchin Fishery Profiles: A background document produced by Explorations Unlimited Inc. Pacific Urchin Harvesters Association/West Coast Green Urchin Association. p. 45 On line at <a href="http://www.puha.org/assets/resources/SeaUrchinBenchmarks2005_Backgrounder.pdf">http://www.puha.org/assets/resources/SeaUrchinBenchmarks2005_Backgrounder.pdf</a></span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[11]</span></span></a> Sonu, Sunee C. 2003. The Japanese Sea Urchin Market. NOAA Technical Memorandum (NMFS N OM-TM - N M FS-S W R-040). On line at <a href="http://www.d-dpacificfisheries.com/NOAA-Japanese%20RSU%20Fishery%20Report%20Nov%202003.pdf">http://www.d-dpacificfisheries.com/NOAA-Japanese%20RSU%20Fishery%20Report%20Nov%202003.pdf</a></span></div></div><div id="edn12"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[12]</span></span></a> Molyneaux, Paul. 2007 Sustainable Sea Urchins in Chile: A Rep[ort for the SUZC, <a href="http://www.maine.gov/dmr/rm/seaurchin/molyneaux.pdf">http://www.maine.gov/dmr/rm/seaurchin/molyneaux.pdf</a></span></div></div><div id="edn13"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Chilean%20Erizos.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[13]</span></span></a> <i>Ibid</i>.</span></div></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-37858541732319306162011-12-03T10:50:00.005-03:002011-12-05T16:57:26.763-03:00German-Chilean food / Comida chilena-alemana<div class="MsoNormal">On my first day in Chile, I crossed the river from my hostel to Bellavista, Santiago’s “Bohemian” neighborhood, sat down at an out door cafe and ordered a beer in my usually serviceable gringo Spanish.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div>Me: “A beer please.” <o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">Waiter: “A <i>schop</i>?” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Me: “Ah… a beer, I’ll have a beer.”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Waiter, with irritation, while making beer stein gestures: “A <i>schop</i>, you want a <i>schop</i>?”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Me: “Okay, okay, I’ll have a <i>schop.</i>”<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL">Waiter: “<i>Escudo</i>?”<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL">Me: “Excuse me?”<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Not a great beginning for gringo Spanish in Chile.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: <a href="http://marcosmarabotto.blogspot.com/2011/03/escudo-chile-054.html">El Birrerio</a></span><o:p></o:p></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As it turns out <i>schop</i>, from the German <i><a href="http://dictionary.reverso.net/german-english/Schoppen">schoppen</a></i>, is Chilean for a draft beer and <i>Escudo</i> (shield) is one of the most popular Chilean beers—a descendant of beer made by German immigrant Carl (Carlos) Anwandter who established his brewery in Valdivia, in south central Chile, in 1851.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Carlos Anwandter was among the earliest of some 11,000 Germans who immigrated to Chile between 1846 and 1914, about half of whom settled in the southern frontier zone. There they established German-speaking communities that included many skilled craftsmen and professionals: beer-brewers, tanners, furniture makers, pharmacists, professors and scientific investigators.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/German%20food%20in%20Chile.doc#_edn1" name="_ednref1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a> Today 500,000 to 600,000 descendants claim German ancestry and German-Chileans are prominent in all aspects of Chilean life: politics, business, academia, art, and of course, brewing and food service. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">German restaurants, serving a wide variety of German (and German-Chilean) dishes are common in Santiago and surrounding areas. Some of the best known are the chain <i><a href="http://www.bavaria.cl/">Bavaria</a>, <a href="http://www.restaurantetantemarlene.cl/">Tante Marlene</a>, and <a href="http://centrodeeventosmunich.cl/inicio_dermunchner.htm">Restaurant Der Münchner</a>, </i>below.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0Sr8TZHOtCnLGJXd7vaUMtgJqgWZai0qOdFdBxFvJ1otQr7gwj8c8qNB8dQYIS3xYRkIqibKCKfsuyAq6hzuBGKNDF8GiAAh2o6vdLoRuKW2xD01i8AfDBwlkDbhnOSWNfFmrFdRvsHc/s1600/New+Picture+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj0Sr8TZHOtCnLGJXd7vaUMtgJqgWZai0qOdFdBxFvJ1otQr7gwj8c8qNB8dQYIS3xYRkIqibKCKfsuyAq6hzuBGKNDF8GiAAh2o6vdLoRuKW2xD01i8AfDBwlkDbhnOSWNfFmrFdRvsHc/s1600/New+Picture+%25282%2529.png" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">But perhaps the most popular are the German-Chilean cafes and <i>schoperías</i> (beer joints) where you can have a beer and anything from a sandwich to a full meal. Among the best known are the Santiago classics <i><a href="http://fuentealemanachillan.cl/">Fuente Alemana</a>, </i>and<i> </i>the <i><a href="http://www.800.cl/?id=1097&id_Ficha=226">Elkika Ilmenau</a></i>, or the chain <i><a href="http://www.tipytap.cl/">Tip y Top</a>. </i>All serve everything mentioned here along with German sausage plates, hamburgers, hot dogs, and <a href="http://cachandochile.wordpress.com/2008/12/03/sanguches/">Chilean sandwiches</a> like <i>churrascos</i> (steak), “<i>Barros Lucos</i>,” (hot beef and cheese), and <i>lomitos</i> (below).<i><o:p> </o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGx6U3Lwm6gZ7kYakhTG95fY0RuNbnt7rIxvfyzEaMVUFM_skD8WT8YVI1AiCbC83VyCgssUDJQJqtp5zRDNcEpsINKMA6Wsv7BZ3CILBItz4E7BKxm2SarjswKXxjJOzahStCiGnU3GtL/s1600/New+Picture+%252819%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGx6U3Lwm6gZ7kYakhTG95fY0RuNbnt7rIxvfyzEaMVUFM_skD8WT8YVI1AiCbC83VyCgssUDJQJqtp5zRDNcEpsINKMA6Wsv7BZ3CILBItz4E7BKxm2SarjswKXxjJOzahStCiGnU3GtL/s400/New+Picture+%252819%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i><o:p> </o:p></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The <i>lomito completo </i>(roast pork sandwich with sauerkraut, tomatoes, avocado and mayonnaise) at Elkika.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">German influences in Chilean cuisine</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Naturally, Germans immigrants influenced regular Chilean cuisine, especially in the south, but also nationally. Today <i>kuchenes</i>, German influenced cakes, and a sprinkling of other German dishes are widely integrated into Chilean diet. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Chilean </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">kuchen</span><o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>Kuchen</i>, “cake” in German, is among the most mobile of German foods; it seems to have migrated into the national cuisines everywhere Germans settled. Kuchen<i> </i>is the <a href="http://www.statesymbolsusa.org/South_Dakota/desert_kuchen.html">official state dessert</a> of North Dakota; it’s popular in Brazil under the name <i>cuca</i>, where it usually refers to a <a href="http://southamericanfood.about.com/od/desserts/r/Brazilian-Banana-Cake-Cuca-De-Banana.htm">banana cake </a> with a streusel topping; and in Argentina as <i>torta alemana </i>or simply as <i>kuchen</i>. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">While <i>Kuchen</i> can refer to a wide variety of cakes in German, in Chile <i>kuchen</i> is a pastry with a crust of firm cake or crisp tart dough topped with fruit and sometimes streusel (a crumb topping of flour, sugar and butter). The classic Chilean cookbook, La<i> Gran Cocina Chilena</i> includes 17 <i>Kuchen</i> recipes.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/German%20food%20in%20Chile.doc#_edn2" name="_ednref2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></a> No <i>onces</i>, a light Chilean meal like tea taken in the early evening, is complete without a kuchen. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>Kuchen de frutillas</i> (strawberry kuchen, right),<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo and recipe in English from </span><i><a href="http://canelakitchen.blogspot.com/2009/06/strawberries-pie-kuchen-de-frutillas-o.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Canela Kitchen</span></a><o:p></o:p></i></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><i><o:p><br />
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</o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><i style="text-align: center;">Kuchen de Quesillo</i> (fresh cheese kuchen with blueberries, below)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo and recipe in Spanish from <i style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><a href="http://lacocinadelatimer.blogspot.com/2008/04/kchen-de-queso-fresco-y-arndano.html">La Cocina de Latimer</a></i></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">For a recipe in ‘English see <a href="http://rickcooks.com/recipes/txt2html.cgi?kuchen">Rick Cooks</a></span><o:p></o:p></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZ1ZrZFvKyurgNS358P0OKFi0upOYxrSh22U1_5WEqZBxhHGA7DuSntQFd5ur5up4aOCsqnEijCvYMx4BuSG-_zlCzdN9n_CRJpYOeoaN_HkVFz9iYG5OcdTKqWMzIvf2lFuohekL9EOY/s1600/Bandera+Chilena.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZ1ZrZFvKyurgNS358P0OKFi0upOYxrSh22U1_5WEqZBxhHGA7DuSntQFd5ur5up4aOCsqnEijCvYMx4BuSG-_zlCzdN9n_CRJpYOeoaN_HkVFz9iYG5OcdTKqWMzIvf2lFuohekL9EOY/s320/Bandera+Chilena.jpg" width="320" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">And for the most Chilean of all, there is the Chilean Flag kuchen, from<a href="http://www.pasteleriamozart.com/site/verpro.php?cat_id=60&cat_parent=62&cat_parent2=458"> <i>Pasteleria Mozart</i></a> in Santiago.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>Pernil</i> </span>– pork hock<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">While kuchen is the most widely appreciated German-Chilean dish, <i>pernil</i> certainly has its advocates. <i>Pernil</i> means “leg” or “shoulder” (as in pork “picnic” shoulder) in traditional Spanish, but in Chile a <i>pernil</i> is a generous pork hock, usually served boiled with mashed potatoes or sauerkraut (<i>chocrut</i>). Peel away the thick layer of skin and fat and the meat below is succulent and meltingly tender.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pernil</i> with <i>puré</i> - photo: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/felipemarques/3440673969/in/photostream">felipemarques' photostream</a><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">It is found in German-Chilean restaurants, but also where no <o:p></o:p>other obviously German dishes appear on the menu. In this restaurant sign from Orsono, it is the “Suggestion of the Day”, served with sauerkraut, <i>pebre </i>(Chilean salsa<i>) </i>and Chilean spicy mashed potatoes</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Roasted <i style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">pernil</i> (the German <i style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">schweinshaxe</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">) is also popular and is sold in some supermarkets, cooked on a rotisserie like chicken.</span> </span></o:p></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
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</span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/logosorno/2978752534/in/photostream">logosorno's photostream</a></span><o:p></o:p></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>Chocrut</i> </span>– sauerkraut <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Where there’s <i>pernilI, </i>there must be <i>chocrut. </i>The earliest ChileanSauerkraut recipes I’ve found come from <i><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012281">La Negrita Doddi</a></i>, the French influenced 1911cookbook<i>. </i>They are<i> Ganso </i>(goose) <i>a la choucrute </i>and <i>Choucrute al la alemana</i> (German stile). Both use the French spelling “<i>choucrute” </i>and neither actually uses sauerkraut (fermented cabbage), but cabbage blanched in boiling water and drained, then simmered with onion, sausage and bacon – and goose in the first recipe. A similar recipe occurs in the 1882 <i><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181">Nuevo manual de cocina</a></i> where it is called simply “partridges with cabbage” (<i>perdices con repollo</i>, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">p.72</span><i>)</i>. All (or none) may reflect the influence of German immigrants who began arriving in 1846. Today in Chile sauerkraut is most commonly found on a <i>completo</i>, a Chilean hotdog with tomatoes, sauerkraut, avocado and abundant mayonnaise; or on other sandwiches.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJWmYn7kzmpMo1tCAomW6Z_mssxAAhQCO6aHxSmXQ0iiYdoKMh32VmIMOv_AQhSfrtA8pPxZO0OB5jvIYUWuYV7NKO2vW4or4KxYstoAj_JfW7gSd-xC9_EL53OR6Tj2Ls_qCP1d1uK66/s1600/New+Picture+%252815%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnJWmYn7kzmpMo1tCAomW6Z_mssxAAhQCO6aHxSmXQ0iiYdoKMh32VmIMOv_AQhSfrtA8pPxZO0OB5jvIYUWuYV7NKO2vW4or4KxYstoAj_JfW7gSd-xC9_EL53OR6Tj2Ls_qCP1d1uK66/s320/New+Picture+%252815%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>Asado Aleman</i> </span>(“German roast” AKA meatloaf)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Chilean <i>asado aleman</i>, like <i>pernil</i>, is found on the menus of Chilean restaurants with no other “German” dishes. It often includes hard boiled eggs and sometimes cooked carrots. The meat is usually ground beef combined with milk-soaked bread and eggs, sautéed onions and perhaps garlic, paprika or oregano. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo and recipe in Spanish</span><span style="color: blue;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">:</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <a href="http://www.corazondealcachofa.cl/chef/cda/" title="Artículos de Corazón de Alcachofa"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Corazón de Alcachofa</span></a></span><o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Similar recipes are found all over Latin America under the names “<i>albondigon” </i>(big meatball), or <i>molde de carne </i>(mold of meat), although characteristically the Chilean version tends to be among the simplest and least highly seasoned. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Escalopa Kaiser </span></i>– beef cordon bleu<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>Milinesas </i>or<i> escalopas, </i>thin cutlets of meat, coated in bread crumbs and fried, are popular throughout Latin America as well as in Europe. They seem to have been in Chile before there was much German influence, appearing in the 1882 Chilean cookbook, <i><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181">Nuevo manual de cocina</a></i> as <i>biftek rebozado </i>(breaded steak). But today’s version, the <i>Escalopa Kaiser</i>, certainly owes its origin (or at least its name) to German immigration. It is two slices of beef with sliced ham and cheese sandwiched between, the whole breaded and fried. They are popular and served widely, as the one below (which appears to be chicken) at the <i>Oktober Fest 2008</i>, Malloco, Chile.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpcQDvEbbxDuGcheyVc3agxxw_NOCamll-ITWIm2mqFErA9ib7U8NJXDrjQqcw7HtBYsIEIq4XajNcJP3yvtAwSHvt2vJ7twMLEDxeeZTtFetUBYGgNRPijx-AmoGhccEKoh3fAoayvbn/s1600/New+Picture+%252817%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpcQDvEbbxDuGcheyVc3agxxw_NOCamll-ITWIm2mqFErA9ib7U8NJXDrjQqcw7HtBYsIEIq4XajNcJP3yvtAwSHvt2vJ7twMLEDxeeZTtFetUBYGgNRPijx-AmoGhccEKoh3fAoayvbn/s400/New+Picture+%252817%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #fefefe; font-size: x-small; line-height: 20px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #fefefe; font-size: x-small; line-height: 20px;">“Daniel, happy with his </span><i style="background-color: #fefefe; font-size: small; line-height: 20px;">Escalopa Kaiser</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: #fefefe; font-size: x-small; line-height: 20px;">”</span></div><h1 style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #fefefe; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; line-height: 15.6pt; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alvarofarfan/2992375708/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Alvaro Farfan's photostream</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></h1><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i>Crudos</i> – </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #222222;">steak tartare (</span></span>literally “raws”)<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">While Chile’s most famous <i>crudos</i> are served at the <i><a href="http://haussmann.cl/principal.htm">Café Haussmann</a></i> in Valdivia, they are also popular in Santiago and other cities, especially as bar food. Everyone in Valdivia seems to have a version of the “authentic” <i>Café Haussmann</i> recipe, each one a little different.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMrJoigmQoTeba5aIaTNMrZwn9OZ7pypJjKKGX-7-jICQsCX9LpWRG7BdvcNdFLgs2I2npI6if0hsRg_O6_m94J7LBRcpzrwTI9SyOX1HP9V7MgS0bt5_dKXwXJffR5v4CDjptwMbipCT/s1600/crudo+wiki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMrJoigmQoTeba5aIaTNMrZwn9OZ7pypJjKKGX-7-jICQsCX9LpWRG7BdvcNdFLgs2I2npI6if0hsRg_O6_m94J7LBRcpzrwTI9SyOX1HP9V7MgS0bt5_dKXwXJffR5v4CDjptwMbipCT/s400/crudo+wiki.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Crudos</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> served at <i>Café Haussmann</i>,</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> </span></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: #f9f9f9; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Valdivia Photo <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Crudos.jpg">Wkipedia</a></span></span><i><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"> </span></o:p></i></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;"><i><br />
</i></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;"><i><br />
</i></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://maxmorenogrez.bligoo.com/content/view/346080/Los-mejores-crudos-de-Valdivia-Haussmann.html"><span lang="ES-CL">Crudos</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-style: normal;">, Café Haussmann, Valdivia</span></a></span></i><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span lang="ES-CL">1 Kg. </span>(2 ¼ lb) beef rump roast, finely ground<br />
6 eggs<br />
<o:p> </o:p>Mix the beef and eggs and serve over toast with chopped onions. You may add lemon juice, minced green Chilean chilies in olive oil and Haussamnn’s sauce: equal parts of mayonnaise and cream (some say yogurt), salt and cilantro. (To prevent the beef from discoloring add lemon juice with eggs.) </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Here’s another version, from Ana María Springer Hitschfeld of Frutillar, a German-Chilean town in the south.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;"><i><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www4.biblioredes.cl/BiblioRed/Nosotros+en+Internet/cabanaseltirol/Recetas+de+Cocina+Alemana.htm">Crudos,<span style="font-style: normal;"> </span>Cabañas El Tirol</a><o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote class="tr_bq">800 gm. (1 ¾ lb.) beef rump roast, finely ground<br />
Chopped chives, 2 bunches<br />
2 tablespoons capers<br />
3 grated dill pickles<br />
1 egg yolk<br />
Lemon juice<br />
Salt<br />
Freshly ground pepper to taste<br />
Variety of breads<br />
<br />
Mix meat, chopped chives, capers, pickle, egg yolk (optional), lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve molded on a plate with variety of breads.</blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Other German-Chilean foods</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Other classic German foods, purple cabbage, smoked pork chops, rye bread, German style sausages (bratwurst, weisswurst, etc.) are occasionally (some regularly) available in Chilean supermarkets (Jumbo for example), but are not really integrated into Chilean cuisine. And of course hot dogs and hamburgers are ubiquitous; although they seem to be only indirectly German – via the USA.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div><br />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/German%20food%20in%20Chile.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span></span></a> German Genealogy: Chile. On line at <a href="http://www.genealogy.net/reg/WELT/chile.html">http://www.genealogy.net/reg/WELT/chile.html</a></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/German%20food%20in%20Chile.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Alfaro, Mónica T. 2000. La Gran Cocina Chilena, 8th Edition. Santiago: Ediciones Occidente S.A. p. 416</span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-67509144001914072242011-09-18T19:12:00.001-03:002011-09-19T11:14:44.638-03:00Chilean Chicha<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote><br />
We sat down by the fire and they immediately placed before us two good looking pitchers of <i>chicha.</i> My portion was clear, sweet and spicy, and the chief toasted me with it, saying that I should eat and drink… Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán. <span lang="ES-CL">1673 <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(all translations mine)</span> </span></blockquote><blockquote>This drink is highly appreciated in Chile and rich families as well as the poor consume great quantities while it retains its sweetness. Claudio Gay, 1841 </blockquote><blockquote>The Independence Day fiestas are coming soon and there will be no Chilean tables that don’t include a good meat empanada and a glass of <i>chicha</i>. <a href="http://www.elperiodico.cl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=9849:en-fiestas-patrias-ministerio-de-agricultura-elegira-las-mejores-empanadas-y-chicha-de-todo-chile&catid=44:cultura-y-espectaculos&Itemid=55">ElPeriodico.cl</a> September, 2011<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">From before the Spanish conquest to today <i>chicha</i> has been the most Chilean of drinks. Whether the sweet strawberry <i>chicha</i> that the young soldier <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html">Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán</a> enjoyed, the stronger <i>muday</i> or corn <i>chicha</i> the Mapuche warriors drank, the apple <i>chicha</i> of Chiloé, or the grape <i>chicha</i> of central Chile, it has brought refreshment and cheer to Chileans for centuries, perhaps for millennia. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>Chicha</i> came to the attention of the European voyagers early. On the fifth of August, 1498, Columbus came ashore in Venezuela and, according to the letter he wrote to the King, the Indians “…brought …. wine of many kinds white and red, but not of grapes. It must be of several kinds, one of one fruit and one of another and likewise one must be of maize, which is a seed which makes a spike like a cob…”<br />
<br />
<blockquote>To the Spanish, all were “<i>chicha</i>,” a term which seems to have been part of several indigenous American languages. It was first documented in written Spanish in 1521, when a visitor to Panama noted that it was short for “<i>chichah co-pah”</i>, where <i>“chichah”</i> meant maize and <i>“co-pah”</i> drink.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span> It came to be used generically for the fermented drinks of the Indians, replacing the native terms like the <i>azúa </i>of the Incas and the <i>muday</i> of the Mapuche of Chile.</blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Mapuche <i>Chicha</i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt;">Among the Mapuche, indigenous people of south central Chile, <i>chicha</i> made from grains or fruits was an integral part of social life. Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán writes about a gathering he attended in the 1620s:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt; margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">To the chiefs they gave splendid food, various dishes of fish, shellfish, fowl, partridges, bacon, sausages, pastries, <i>buñuelos</i>, tomatoes, rolls of beans and maize, and other things, providing for each band according to the people it contained, one hundred or two hundred measures of <i>chicha</i>, because more commonly only twenty or thirty bands came together for ordinary drinking parties and feasts, but in this one there were more than fifty, with a daily consumption of more than four thousand jugs of <i>chicha</i>. And that was not a lot, because there were twelve or fourteen thousand</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">souls at that feast, Indian men and women, girls</span><span style="color: black;"> <i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">[chinas]</span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> and</span></span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11pt;"> boys.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal">Jesuit Diego de Rosales, who was a missionary among the Mapuche in the 17<sup>th</sup> century explains:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote><i>Chicha</i>, which is like beer or our wine, is the joy of all get-togethers or parties and is the usual drink, because there are Indians who never drink water, but only <i>chicha</i> in their houses, and if it is lacking it there is an argument with the women that often ends in blows. …They make <i>chicha</i> of all kinds, from grains like maize, wheat, barley, and from fruit like apples, pears, quince, strawberries, <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/eating-pinones.html">piñones</a></i> [seeds of <i>Araucaria araucana</i>]<i> <a href="http://www.chile-attractions.com/chilean-guava.html">murtilla</a></i> [Chilean Guava, <span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Ugni molinae</span></span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 10pt;">) </span></i></span>and other native fruit: they grind the grain, add yeast, heat it and when it is just right it is finished.</blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuVOJBdJnwv451YJ-5616kgT0AIRMnXehrrgqCFcRHLryD0O-q2y5CZJjk9NdpkSXacx_5WeTkW1mx7adLn736gvoixLr13ifPaFMAQg-CUS93UeBFfsmKX4QG5wrcb1KO_7WabIe9BQqd/s1600/New+Picture+%25289%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuVOJBdJnwv451YJ-5616kgT0AIRMnXehrrgqCFcRHLryD0O-q2y5CZJjk9NdpkSXacx_5WeTkW1mx7adLn736gvoixLr13ifPaFMAQg-CUS93UeBFfsmKX4QG5wrcb1KO_7WabIe9BQqd/s640/New+Picture+%25289%2529.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;">Mapuches making apple <i>chicha </i>- <i> </i>Edmond Reuel Smith 1855<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote>When they have to make a lot of [maize] <i>chicha</i> for a large party, the women get together at night and in a circle with their milling stones they spend the whole night singing a funny song in which they keep time with the movements of their milling. The old women and the little girls who don’t have the strength to mill (which takes a lot of strength) work in making yeast, which they do with the flour they are making, chewing it and putting it into some pitchers, and there is an old woman who grinds the yeast. This yeast and the ground flour they put in large pans of water that are on the fire, and this is the <i>chicha</i> at its beginning, which if kept for many days becomes sour and is strong like strong spicy vinegar. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal">This method of making maize <i>chicha</i>, which Rosales describes above, was common throughout maize growing areas of central and South America. It involves masticating ground coked maize, drying it, and then mixing it with more ground maize and water. This was then brought to a boil and allowed to ferment. By masticating the maize, enzymes in the saliva convert some of the starch into sugar, which is then available to yeasts for fermentation into alcohol. It is not “yeast” as Rosales thought, but is an alternative to malting (sprouting) grain, which accomplishes the same purpose. (No mastication was required for fruit <i>chicha</i>s.)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Colonial Chilean <i>chicha</i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Soon after the Spanish arrived in Chile, planting grapes was a high priority as wine was essential for religious observances and was an integral part of Spanish diet. Vines arrived in Mexico as early as 1520, in Peru by 1540, and Chile the first vineyard was plated by Juan Jufré, first <i>alcalde</i> (mayor) of Santiago, probably around 1550 and wine production began shortly afterward.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">But <i>chicha</i> isn’t exactly wine, it’s wine in the process of fermentation, and the origins of grape <i>chicha</i>, as distinct from wine, are unclear. Chilean historian Eugenio Pereira Salas sees it as a “new drink” which, in the 18<sup>th</sup> century was replacing wine, as the drink of the common people. It is first mentioned in 1760, when seen as responsible for death and disgraceful behavior caused by the “the boundless appetite of the common people who make it and who have given it the name <i>chichita</i>.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pereria Salas sees <i>chicha</i> as a descendant of Mapuche <i>muday</i>, which is quite reasonable, but he notes that in Spain it would be known as “sagardúa,” from the Basque word for cider. In fact similar partially fermented wines are produced throughout Europe, under names that translate as “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Federweisser">feather wine</a>,” “new wine,” “young wine,” and in southern Spain as “<i>mosto</i>,” though none seem to be cooked before fermentation and it do not keep as long as <i>chicha</i>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Claudio Gay, writing in the 1840s, explains how it Chilean <i>chicha</i>, now called (<i>chicha cocida</i> or <i>chicha baya</i>) was made:</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote>It is preferably prepared from the juice of the sweetest grapes. This juice is given a light coking, frequently not reaching a boil, and after cooling, it is placed in sealed barrels. Form that point fermentation proceeds, producing a great deal of carbon dioxide which puts the barrel in risk if a pinhole is not carefully opened for the gas to escape. This pinhole is closed with a plug that is removed every two hours during the fermentation. The <i>chicha</i> thus produced is decanted into barrels for consumption. After six to eight days it can be drunk, and many people prefer it as it is then foamy and spicy, but it causes many burps and for this reason it is usually drunk only a month or two later. It doesn’t last long and by October it begins to oxidize and is used for distillation [into aguardiente].<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i>Chicha cruda</i>, uncooked <i>chicha</i>, or <i>chacolí</i> was (and still is) also be made by simply allowing grape juice to ferment, but it must be drunk within a few days before it begins to turn to vinegar.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">By the time Englishwoman Maria Grahm was in Chile, in the 1840s…</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><blockquote><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCd3rHX8GItvp_nocL-CG9BrXMd5LjSks9C5BRv3lhpO19l5dgr3axSPqAV3G9UDPVWx2e8Ld3ctxANzvbsHtzO5MNItR86x9B4Mks6S_KFTJRhN2w1SrRY_iXwkIeaPB_ENj8C0NIBKg/s1600/repartidor+de+chicha.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCd3rHX8GItvp_nocL-CG9BrXMd5LjSks9C5BRv3lhpO19l5dgr3axSPqAV3G9UDPVWx2e8Ld3ctxANzvbsHtzO5MNItR86x9B4Mks6S_KFTJRhN2w1SrRY_iXwkIeaPB_ENj8C0NIBKg/s400/repartidor+de+chicha.bmp" width="312" /></a>The liquor commonly drank by the lower classes is <i>chicha</i>, the regular descendant of that intoxicating <i>chicha</i> which the Spaniards found the South American savages possessed of the art of making, by chewing various berries and grains, spitting them into a large vessel, and allowing them to ferment. But the great and increasing demand for <i>chicha</i> has introduced a cleanlier way of making it ; and it is now in fact little other than harsh cider, the greater part being produced from apples, and flavored with the various berries which formerly supplied the whole of the Indian <i>chicha</i>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: right;">The <i>chicha</i> deliveryman<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></div></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Chilean <i>chicha</i> today</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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While there is bottled <i>chicha</i> in the supermarkets around the time of Chilean Independence day, September 18, most Chilean <i>chicha</i> is sold from barrels in <i>fondas </i>(booths) at independence day celebrations, <i>picadas </i>(cafes/bars), or at the rural <i>chicharias</i> where it is made. This year we bought ours from the Valladares, artisanal producers in the town of Curacaví, 50 km or so from Santiago.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQpsxQwZJmZx5Pt5IHK2OkjgCFSgQw5mu6g2TQHiErHwRBOXtK_8QwEVLeD3BGsED_u0EAk_6cuuveBAoY62QbSF6oU3Yvtjqc8Ss2Uns0fGn4EsWzTGkOeXKXspUgFQFt0jEY3pk04_9/s1600/IMG_9250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpQpsxQwZJmZx5Pt5IHK2OkjgCFSgQw5mu6g2TQHiErHwRBOXtK_8QwEVLeD3BGsED_u0EAk_6cuuveBAoY62QbSF6oU3Yvtjqc8Ss2Uns0fGn4EsWzTGkOeXKXspUgFQFt0jEY3pk04_9/s640/IMG_9250.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWKOzJIDbo26Cu5nA9B6gCBKYdXrjynHpSceYLRdoYS_OjSSht5DdZzjuzuE0kznSGFmmbqadxDbUKDCjrpYFMZDolaBycWF5Lplry5quQyQzjjNR-G5iLosjdbCNBkzXxxAuBewKUokq/s1600/IMG_9252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibWKOzJIDbo26Cu5nA9B6gCBKYdXrjynHpSceYLRdoYS_OjSSht5DdZzjuzuE0kznSGFmmbqadxDbUKDCjrpYFMZDolaBycWF5Lplry5quQyQzjjNR-G5iLosjdbCNBkzXxxAuBewKUokq/s400/IMG_9252.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDqY4oXHj_rTscL3NPH3E7MB4Qul6IYDLkmww5YG_N2er94mXlle4dP8lYWkKXzvNUX9o2wtx8uR6FqdWhH2dL_DDPjlFc2kyzFVS20MgTZnFJSchQSCH1Gd2eihLfhh8Lvve8anDveZU/s1600/IMG_9253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZDqY4oXHj_rTscL3NPH3E7MB4Qul6IYDLkmww5YG_N2er94mXlle4dP8lYWkKXzvNUX9o2wtx8uR6FqdWhH2dL_DDPjlFc2kyzFVS20MgTZnFJSchQSCH1Gd2eihLfhh8Lvve8anDveZU/s320/IMG_9253.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Their production techniques are virtually the same as those reported by Gay in the 1840s. The grape juice is heated for several hours at a low temperature and when cool, sealed into <i>tinajas</i>, large earthenware jars, for fermentation. They didn’t mention allowing the carbon dioxide to escape—perhaps the seal on the <i>tinajas</i> isn’t so tight as to build up destructive pressure. Then when the <i>chicha</i> has reached the point they wish, sweet but with good acidity and a bit of alcohol, it is decanted into barrels. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</i></div><div style="text-align: right;"><i>Tinajas </i>of<i> chicha<o:p></o:p></i></div></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Two strengths were available when we went, one quite sweet and the other less so and a bit more piquant. We bought some of each, the piquant to drink then (they said that it wouldn’t last until the 18<sup>th)</sup>, and the sweet to save for the 18<sup>th</sup>, about 10 days later. It was about 1,500 pesos ($3.15) a liter. They have <i>chicha</i> available year round.</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví</span></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví, chicha balla y curaora</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví. Que ponis los pasos lentos<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví a mi no me los ponis</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Cicha de Curacaví por que te pasó pa' entro</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví chicha valla y curaora</span></i></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><br />
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<span class="apple-style-span"><i>Se acabó la chichita alla va, lla va, tambien la<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Se curó la cantora alla va, lla va, todos pa' fuera<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Se acabó la chichita alla va, lla va, tambien la vela.<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Todos pa' fuera ay si alla va, lla va, chicha en botella</span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><i><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"> </span></i></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><br />
<span class="apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">A la mujer celosa alla va, lla va, palos con ella.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Which is, more or less, the following:<o:p></o:p></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví, </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">cream colored and intoxicating<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví, </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">that makes you step slowly<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví, </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">but that doesn’t happen to me<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Cicha de Curacaví </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">because I put it inside me<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Chicha de Curacaví, </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">cream colored and intoxicating.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">The <i>chicha</i> is all gone, there it goes, the candle is out too<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">The singer got drunk, there it goes, everyone goes out side<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Everyone goes outside, there they go, <i>chicha</i> in a bottle<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">The jealous woman, there she goes, give her a whack.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">And <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB1F7kphXZE&feature=related">here’s</a> a video with the music.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><br />
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<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">[1]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán, Francisco, 1608-1680. 2001. El cautiverio feliz, Tomo dos; edición crítica de Mario Ferreccio Podestá y Rai</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Tahoma;">̈</span><span lang="ES-CL">ssa Kordić Riquelme. Santiago de Chile: Seminario de Filología Hispánica, Facultad de Filosofía y Humanidades, Universidad de Chile, p. 86. on line at </span><a href="http://books.google.cl/books?id=VOrKaGk48twC&printsec=frontcover&hl=en#v=onepage&q=&f=false"><span lang="ES-CL">http://books.google.cl/books?id=VOrKaGk48twC&printsec=frontcover&hl=en#v=onepage&q=&f=false</span></a><span lang="ES-CL">; </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Gay, Claudia 1862 Agricultura Vol 2, p. 193. Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago online at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002687"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #11593c;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002687</span></a></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">; </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">and</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Fierro, Verónica. </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #363636;">En fiestas patrias: ministerio de agricultura elegirá las mejores empanadas y <i>chicha</i> de todo chile. <a href="http://www.elperiodico.cl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=9849:en-fiestas-patrias-ministerio-de-agricultura-elegira-las-mejores-empanadas-y-chicha-de-todo-chile&catid=44:cultura-y-espectaculos&Itemid=55">ElPeriodico.cl</a> Sept. 11, 2011.</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></b></span></b></span></a><b> </b><span lang="ES-CL">Pardo, O. 2004. Las <i>chicha</i>s en el chile precolombino. (basado en una trabajo presentado en el xii congreso ítalo-latinoamericano de etnomedicina "nuno álvares pereira" (Río de Janeiro, Brasil, 8-12 de Septiembre 2003). Chloris Chilensis año 7 nº 2. Url: <a href="http://www.chlorischile.cl/">http://www.chlorischile.cl</a><span style="text-transform: uppercase;">.</span></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="text-transform: uppercase;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán, <i>Op Cit</i>. p. 207. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Smith, Edmund Reuel. 1855. The Araucanians; or, Notes of a Tour among the Indian tribes of</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Southern Chile. </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">New York: Harper & brothers. p. 278 On line at http://<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/books.google.cl"><span style="color: #ff9900;">books.google.cl</span></a> </span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Rosales, Diego de. 1877 (1674) Historia general de el Reyno de Chile: Flandes Indiano. Valpariso: Imprenta del Mercurio. </span>Vol. I p. 155. on line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0005271">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0005271</a></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Pozo, José del. 1998. Historia del vino chileno desde 1850 hasta hoy. </span>Santiago: Editorial Universitaria. P. 28. On line at <a href="http://books.google.com/">http://books.google.com</a></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Pereira Salas, Eugenio. 1977. Apuntes para la historia de la cocina chilena. </span>Santiago : Universitaria. p. 65 On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0006512">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0006512</a></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Gay, Caludio. <i>Op. cit. </i>p. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> Graham, Maria. 1824. Journal of a Residence in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>, During the Year 1822. <st1:city w:st="on">London</st1:city>: Longman, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hurst</st1:place></st1:city>, etc. p. 127. On line at <a href="http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=Journal%20of%20a%20residence%20in%20Chile%20AND%20mediatype:texts">http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=Journal%20of%20a%20residence%20in%20Chile%20AND%20mediatype:texts</a></span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> Drawing by unknown author from Álbud de tioso chilenos de mediados del siglo diecinueve, Sociedad de Bibliófilo Chilenos, Santiago, 1987 as reproduced in Pozo, Jose, <i>Op. cit.</i> p. 39</span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chilean%20Chicha.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a> Anonymous Chilean folk song, on line at <a href="http://rescatemoselfolklore.blogspot.com/2011/01/chicha-de-curacavi.html">http://rescatemoselfolklore.blogspot.com/2011/01/chicha-de-curacavi.html</a></span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-61511919084257798722011-09-06T13:35:00.003-03:002012-01-14T10:40:28.728-03:00Loco over locos, Chilean “abalone”<div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: <span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><a href="http://www.fotonaturaleza.cl/details.php?image_id=12151&sessionid=77f72ef8863962d8294950211133af02">Hugo Carrillo</a></span></b></span></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-size: 10pt;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_PGB5MWnaNssyEXdhPAL5LIVoDRd-zN60jIZ4c4DB7nDtLRzwNdsw3fEiPeyCokAEdsA7PY3O0job_AB1rwUmetpn2XUS8hcIgfN0nWGb4IZLpqAr96-VuTGFJ39t5jPnu1-iC8ARlDFv/s1600/Locos2.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_PGB5MWnaNssyEXdhPAL5LIVoDRd-zN60jIZ4c4DB7nDtLRzwNdsw3fEiPeyCokAEdsA7PY3O0job_AB1rwUmetpn2XUS8hcIgfN0nWGb4IZLpqAr96-VuTGFJ39t5jPnu1-iC8ARlDFv/s320/Locos2.bmp" width="235" /></a></div><i><o:p></o:p></i><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><i>Locos</i>, Chilean “abalone” (<span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Concholepas concholepas</span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">),</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span></b></span>are among Chile’s, and my wife’s, favorite shellfish. And of course the name, from the Mapuche language, makes for some interesting translations since “loco” is Spanish for “crazy:” “crazies with mayonnaise,” etc., frequently adorn the English versions of Chilean menus. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">While similar in appearance, taste and texture to abalone – which exist in Chile only as an introduced aquaculture species – <i>locos </i>are smaller and are carnivorous, feeding mainly on mussels. They inhabit rocky coastal shallows down to about 40 m. along the coast of South America from northern Peru to the southern tip of Tierra del Fuego. They grow slowly, taking 4 to 5 years to reach the minimum harvestable size of 10 cm. (about 4 inches) in diameter and, based on evidence from archaeological sites, have been part of Chilean diet for over 8,500 years.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span> And they were abundant; o<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">ne 6,000 year old shell midden near Los Vilos contained an estimated 4,185,000 shells. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Upon their arrival, the Spanish also developed a taste for <i>locos</i>. The earliest mention seems to be from Padre Diego Rosales, in his <i>General History of the Kingdom of Chile</i> (1640): </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">The Chileans call the donkey foot* loco. It seems a vulgar food, but if it is macerated by pounding it looses its hardness and is tasty.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">*<i>pie de burro</i> – name for <i>loco</i> in Peru<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pedro Gonzales de Agueros (<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">1768-1793</span></span>) mentions them in 1791, saying:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">The locos resemble donkey’s foot or hoof and are so tough that to stew them it is necessary to beat them first with sticks or stones and in this manner tenderize them and afterwards they come out very tasty.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span><i><o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUtStGu3TsPRSrenxCst4WXaruFa14wXbnv4oLuwyA_6W_kfW3kXvPA6W8nj7rhfe82wSCbIy69vHplGS3HMz4QiQ2f6m4Xglv4nrEvIZjp8WZGXuiQGGs1AjDgythnZFSZAV8NJhQKbw/s1600/New+Picture+%25281%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUtStGu3TsPRSrenxCst4WXaruFa14wXbnv4oLuwyA_6W_kfW3kXvPA6W8nj7rhfe82wSCbIy69vHplGS3HMz4QiQ2f6m4Xglv4nrEvIZjp8WZGXuiQGGs1AjDgythnZFSZAV8NJhQKbw/s320/New+Picture+%25281%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCmrSrWw7L01CCV2-71LRyrnCW9vJpYCv1el55eE8WTwWh4nf58X9MiCWhyphenhyphenaNdI7qgBu7_MEgx9POMTWKdjLglnMa3YAURo0H9643pddsvdYUavjHJOPkG8J0zuK1y_FmSyOsDyRLzLzG/s1600/New+Picture+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCmrSrWw7L01CCV2-71LRyrnCW9vJpYCv1el55eE8WTwWh4nf58X9MiCWhyphenhyphenaNdI7qgBu7_MEgx9POMTWKdjLglnMa3YAURo0H9643pddsvdYUavjHJOPkG8J0zuK1y_FmSyOsDyRLzLzG/s200/New+Picture+%25286%2529.jpg" width="195" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"> Photo: <a href="http://fauna-parque-tumbes.blogspot.com/2010/09/loco.html">Luis Muñoz </a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Photo: <a href="http://www.manandmollusc.net/Shell_photos/concholepas.html">Paul Monfils</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL"> </span>Writing a few years later, Jesuit naturalist, Juan Ignacio Molina (1740-1829) gives then a scientific name (which was later changed to <span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Concholepas concholepas</span></i></span>) and describes them as follows<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">:</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">The Loco, <i>Murex loco - </i><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">oval, with a very short tail, knobby above, toothless opening, almost round. This muricid [sea snail] is held in high esteem for the taste of its flesh, which is white, but a little bitter, however cooks have found ways to make it perfectly tender, by beating it with a stick before cooking. It is three to four inches thick and contains two or three drops of a royal purple liquor within a little bladder near the neck.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Molina’s observation that <i>locos</i> contain a few drops of “royal purple liquor,” is a testament to his observation. No other Colonial source seems to notice, although the Inca used <i>locos</i> or a related rock snail (</span></span><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Thais chocolate</span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">) to produce dyes similar to the Royal Purple from Mediterranean sea snails.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">The <i>locos </i>fishery</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Unsurprisingly, after the accounts of the early natural historians, <i>locos</i> disappeared from history, if not from the tables of Chileans. We know that they remained abundant through the end of the 19<sup>th</sup> century when they could be purchased on the beach for 60 centavos per hundred, or about 4 times that much in Santiago.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span> </span>(For comparison beef and lamb sold for from 70 to 90 centavos a kilo.) And there is sporadic data from the early 20<sup>th</sup> century: </span>in 1926, 67 metric tons of <i>locos</i> were landed; during the 1940s <i>loco</i> landings were between 1,000 and 2,000 tons per year; and by the 1950s, when data becomes regularly available, landings averaged around 4,000 tons per year and remained at this level until 1975.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrYH3lNoYzTd6ip2M2YfSV8SXu7nfVgMVczrIiSMlXCrNcLGQbUwPIN8EE88gu8HIBB2Ir3mZB0jrze44wn3neUVzXhPvz7erCs5kVzpsjTk6ZBNmzxsp40_uBuwhRHCHONIiRU1Pp6utL/s1600/locos+landings.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrYH3lNoYzTd6ip2M2YfSV8SXu7nfVgMVczrIiSMlXCrNcLGQbUwPIN8EE88gu8HIBB2Ir3mZB0jrze44wn3neUVzXhPvz7erCs5kVzpsjTk6ZBNmzxsp40_uBuwhRHCHONIiRU1Pp6utL/s640/locos+landings.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.5pt;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">During this period they were harvested mainly by ‘hookah” divers operating from open wooden boats with outboard motors. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">The fishing lasted one day, depending on weather conditions, in the sub-tidal areas, seldom exceeding the 5-mile offshore limit. There were three crew members: the patron or boatman, an auxiliary and the diver. The auxiliary, called a “telegrapher”, takes care of the air compressor, the life rope and the hoses. The air compressor has one air exit for the diver. He lifts and sinks the bag, helped by the patron. The diver harvests <i>Locos</i> using a rubber suit. Diving is between 2 to 6 hours each trip, and although the result varies, between 200 and 400 <i>Locos</i> are taken in one day. The diver pulls out <i>Locos</i> one by one with a kind of short pike (<i>chope</i>), and gathers between 40 and 100 <i>Locos</i> in his waist bag. When the bag is full, he gives a signal to the “telegrapher” by drawing the rope. The "telegrapher" lifts the bag and sends a replacement to the diver.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span> <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQyzBK5IAuel2RrnYt3d4niCSLoo953VewoAIqpFO8-QGhc2vHCnzXcCnz7KquEtNICjLg5Fggn1Ai3eTA-ki1snKy1BzalLl_rQiko5rDk2hkQp1gc2SkQvIu21YTo3roDympKveVBkJ/s1600/New+Picture.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQyzBK5IAuel2RrnYt3d4niCSLoo953VewoAIqpFO8-QGhc2vHCnzXcCnz7KquEtNICjLg5Fggn1Ai3eTA-ki1snKy1BzalLl_rQiko5rDk2hkQp1gc2SkQvIu21YTo3roDympKveVBkJ/s640/New+Picture.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-left: .5in; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; font-size: 10pt;">Hookah dive boats. Chiloé, 2010 Photo: Germán Henriquez <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">In 1976, with encouragement from the military dictatorship’s unregulated free market ideology, exportation of frozen <i>locos</i> to Japan began. That first shipment of 48 tons of “Chilean abalone” sold for $1.38 US a kilo. The following year exports increased to 2,368 tons at around $2.50 a kilo and generated $6 million, and by 1980 the total catch had grown to 24,856 tons; about 6 times the total annual production 10 years earlier—and very little of it was being eaten by Chileans. The catch began to drop off after 1980, but increased price brought the year’s income for exported <i>locos</i> to about $26 million in 1982. And by 1987, as the supply decreased, the price for frozen export quality locos increased to $10 US a kg. so that slightly under 4,000 tons brought Chile an income of $42.6 million.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">As you can imagine, the increasing demand and price for <i>locos</i> brought chaos to the coast and overexploitation to the fishery. Registered <i>locos</i> fishermen increased from 17,000 in 1975 to 57,000 in 2005. And they migrated to new areas creating conflicts with local fishermen, called ”locos fever” or “the locos wars”<i> </i>by the newspapers: </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> “</span>National media covered the frenzy, propagating the image of rowdy and drunken migrant fishermen fighting and also cavorting with prostitutes on the beaches.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> It even inspired a movie, <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Fiebre_del_Loco">La Fiebre del Loco</a></i>: <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq69tin69EosRHrp4R9VvfF-vZaN4j3mo8fUmqjcr3t_ki0-dFyVumOWXkmb-PLX0oNK2qHzbbLERAr-1x7keo75XZ_2E3rs8VLwNknUP7lLKOZiLW68a4xBuXXiYKl8_rzvcDpVf4jnbp/s1600/New+Picture+%252812%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq69tin69EosRHrp4R9VvfF-vZaN4j3mo8fUmqjcr3t_ki0-dFyVumOWXkmb-PLX0oNK2qHzbbLERAr-1x7keo75XZ_2E3rs8VLwNknUP7lLKOZiLW68a4xBuXXiYKl8_rzvcDpVf4jnbp/s320/New+Picture+%252812%2529.jpg" width="226" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;">The film is about infighting between visiting prostitutes and their husbands' wives in a small fishing village in rural Southern Chile that has become greedy and crazy for Abalone. The film's tagline was "<i>Amor y avaricia en un mundo de buzos y moluscos</i>" (Spanish for: Love and greed in a world of scuba and mollusks). </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p><br />
</o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p><br />
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</o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">This chaos and the dramatic fall in the catch led to steps to control the fishery, often ineptly organized and plagued by illegal fishing. First were seasonal closures, from 1981 to 1984, followed by national quotas and closure of all but the southern areas from 1985 to 1989, and then by a total closure of the fishery from 1990 to 1992. Starting in 1993 a system of management areas was established in which only registered fishermen from a particular <i>caleta</i> or cove could collect <i>locos </i>in their area and no <i>locos</i> could be taken from outside of the management areas; a system designed to give fishermen ownership of the fishery and incentives to promote sustainability. That system has now been applied, the harvest has returned to levels similar to those of the early 1970, which are presumably sustainable -- in spite of an ethos among fishermen applauding illegal fishing by locals.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Eating </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">locos</span><o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Locos</span></i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"> are widely available in Chile today. They are on the menu of many up-scale restaurants, and fresh locos in the shell and frozen cleaned locos sell for around 1000 to 1,200 pesos each ($2.15 – 2.65) while fresh cleaned locos sell for around 20,000 pesos a dozen in Santiago ($43). Prices are lower at fish markets and still lower on the coast. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">If you wish to become a “locovore” and prepare fresh locos from scratch, this is what the <i>New Kitchen Manual</i> of 1882 suggests:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">Put them in a thick bag and beat them [<i>se apalea]</i> forcefully until they are good and soft, but without breaking them; wash them in warm water and then put them in more warm water and bring them to boil over a strong flame; when they are cooked take a little of their soup to melt flour and make a thick gravy [<i>una mazamorra</i>] and season it with a little <i>color </i>[chili or paprika cooked in grease].<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;">By the 20<sup>th</sup> century, the advice was more detailed and relied on chemistry as well as force. In a chapter called “useful advice and little secrets…” in her 1935 cookbook <i>The Good Table</i>, Olga </span><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Budge de Edwars recommends three ways to tenderize <i>locos</i>:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">First: With ashes. Leave them for an hour covered with ashes and then beat each one separately covered with ashes with a thin stick.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Second: With flour and baking soda. ½ kilo of flour, 2 tablespoons of baking soda. [and proceed as above?].<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Third: With coarse kitchen salt. ½ kilo of salt.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">In truth, the secret is in killing them, which is almost imperceptible by simple looking, and to accomplish this objective, the best system is to put them in a sack or canvas and beat them against something hard. No <i>loco</i> can resist the combination of coarse salt with a bit of baking soda and flour.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span><span style="color: #2e3f4c;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #2e3f4c; font-size: 10pt;">Frozen <i>locos<o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c; font-size: 10pt;">Photo: </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #2e3f4c; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://empeval.en.ec21.com/Chilean_Locos_Concholepas_Concholepas--1767149_1767150.html"><span lang="EN-US">Empresa Pesquera Valparaiso SA</span></a></span></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTH-TP2gVHqobqJ-aJquBiqRJjO1xXTPRkT9WfdbcWmW04_YJ_vqN8a7infs0MPQpAUbc47VP1RgP_NIQiuMC26Q-5j88YnfvB0L69WWxiawArBzooIAcVU16QbYHhm_aBJvUsk1wJwIf0/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTH-TP2gVHqobqJ-aJquBiqRJjO1xXTPRkT9WfdbcWmW04_YJ_vqN8a7infs0MPQpAUbc47VP1RgP_NIQiuMC26Q-5j88YnfvB0L69WWxiawArBzooIAcVU16QbYHhm_aBJvUsk1wJwIf0/s320/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">If all this seems to require bit more effort than you want to expend, you can use frozen <i>locos</i> (which seem to be pre-pounded and require only cleaning and cooking according to <a href="http://www.maangchi.com/recipe/jeonbokjuk">this video</a> recipe for Korean abalone porridge). <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Or use canned <i>locos</i>, <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; mso-outline-level: 1; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><span style="color: #777777; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; mso-outline-level: 1; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><b><span style="color: #8a8645; font-size: 15pt;"><a href="http://www.tienda.com/food/products/l-se-05.html">Locos - Whole Abalone from Chile</a><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXwbPZdMfAGoNzABNAsAGgEizTE8KdrU7xmLYRycs2u4es5EpsEidBBhAl7kglSbU-CjoBEajKOc6fS8HfxdhTbX7tPtRkC62MLtpnfDxonkxyza5D6vcktvJGbWlbsxALu1S4Lu0lKkY/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXwbPZdMfAGoNzABNAsAGgEizTE8KdrU7xmLYRycs2u4es5EpsEidBBhAl7kglSbU-CjoBEajKOc6fS8HfxdhTbX7tPtRkC62MLtpnfDxonkxyza5D6vcktvJGbWlbsxALu1S4Lu0lKkY/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" /></a><i><span style="color: navy; font-size: 10.5pt;">Chile's Seafood treasure!</span></i><span style="color: #777777; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"><br />
</span><i><span style="color: red; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 9pt;">All Natural</span></i><span style="color: #777777; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"> </span><b><span style="color: navy;">$31.70</span></b><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"> </span><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"> </span><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"> </span><span style="color: navy; font-size: 7pt;">L-SE-05</span><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><b><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">SHIPS FOR FLAT RATE<o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><br />
</div><ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc"><li class="MsoNormal" style="color: navy; line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in left 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">Three or four whole abalone per tin<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="color: navy; line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in left 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">Gourmet quality<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="color: navy; line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in left 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">Harvested from the pure coastal waters off Chile<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="color: navy; line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in left 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">Size - 13.4 ounces<o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">From the cool, fresh waters off the coast of southern Chile come these delicious 'Locos', also known as Chilean Abalone. They share the rich flavor and signature texture of their northern cousin, the Pacific Abalone.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: 7.0in;"><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">The pure southern Pacific Ocean ensures a fresh clean flavor to these shellfish. They have a full flavor and a firm bite that make them perfect chopped in an onion and tomato salad, or sautéed and added to pasta or a cream sauce.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 6.0pt; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span style="color: navy; font-family: 'Lucida Sans'; font-size: 8.5pt;">Or simply heat them slowly in warm water, then serve them with melted butter for an unusual delicacy sure to please all who try it. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 11.25pt; margin-right: 6.0pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Recipes</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;">After pounding fresh <i>locos </i>are boiled or cooked in a pressure cooker until tender. Sources differ on how long this takes, from 15 minutes (plus cool down time) to 45 minutes in a pressure cooker or from 45 minutes to 2 hours boiling in an open pan. All suggest you save the broth.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;">The most popular preparation seems to be: <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; text-align: center; vertical-align: top;"><i><span lang="ES-CL">Locos con mayo / Locos </span></i><span lang="ES-CL">with mayonnaise.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; text-align: center; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;">Cool the <i>locos </i>to<i> </i>room temperature and serve with a mixed salad, mayo and Chilean <i>salsa verde</i> (parsley, minced onion and lemon juice); two for a first course, 4 to 6 for a main course.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; vertical-align: top;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgwU8q4SbwRQLqxOGauxnin2UwRY_Ab_WMNVQzs1_AKOUPSWDd7MW_LsGPdgRHx7Io82dx_7b5UOItlwfMtX6R4cmJSdXbwUxLCs-rFRxv6gk7IUhRtF1-bzZesKS6Q60ddjEcs8ykkKJk/s1600/locos+mayo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgwU8q4SbwRQLqxOGauxnin2UwRY_Ab_WMNVQzs1_AKOUPSWDd7MW_LsGPdgRHx7Io82dx_7b5UOItlwfMtX6R4cmJSdXbwUxLCs-rFRxv6gk7IUhRtF1-bzZesKS6Q60ddjEcs8ykkKJk/s400/locos+mayo.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6.0pt; mso-line-height-alt: 11.25pt; tab-stops: 7.0in; text-align: center; vertical-align: top;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: 6pt; text-align: left; vertical-align: top;">Another popular dish is:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.nuestro.cl/notas/rescate/comida_mar4.htm">Chupe de <i>locos</i></a> / Stewed <i>locos<o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;">Photo: <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.nestle.cl/cocina/RecetaView.aspx?RecipeID=477"><span lang="EN-US">Nestle.cl</span></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3zGetL1bsjSSgO5V0sLOQj9bcAEGxEbSBFK_ndO2AB8wr7osPg_X6WRdWQg0qmkFI1SSGdsZuqsbuLj-KJdKcCg6eUGELkVWZLqZ0xHbqqOZt_T4SbUWakBHIQ3XlhxknuX-gQZm2drV/s1600/New+Picture+%252818%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3zGetL1bsjSSgO5V0sLOQj9bcAEGxEbSBFK_ndO2AB8wr7osPg_X6WRdWQg0qmkFI1SSGdsZuqsbuLj-KJdKcCg6eUGELkVWZLqZ0xHbqqOZt_T4SbUWakBHIQ3XlhxknuX-gQZm2drV/s320/New+Picture+%252818%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">6 large <i>locos</i>, cooked and cut into rounds </div><div class="MsoNormal">1 tablespoon tomato sauce</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 minced onion</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 tablespoon vegetable oil</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ tablespoon paprika (<i>ají de color</i>)</div><div class="MsoNormal">1/2 cup of the locos cooking liquid </div><div class="MsoNormal">1/2 cup fresh crumbs from French style bread (<i>marraqueta</i>)</div><div class="MsoNormal">1/2 cup milk </div><div class="MsoNormal">2 hard boiled eggs cut in to rounds</div><div class="MsoNormal">1/2 cup grated cheese (<i>queso mantecoso</i> or Munster)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Soak the bread crumbs in the milk for 10 minutes, then squeeze to remove the excess milk. Sauté the onion and paprika in the oil, then add the tomato sauce, the bread crumbs and the <i>locos</i> broth. Put the <i>locos </i>and eggs in an oven proof dish, cover with abundant grated cheese and bake for 30 minutes.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And finally, for the ultimate in empanadas:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Empanadas de <i>locos</i> -- <a href="http://cocinartechile.blogspot.com/2010/02/cocina-chilena-cosa-de-locos.html">Cocinarte Chile</a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt; margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #545454;">Cook the locos until very tender, cut into small pieces, soften the onion in a little oil cooked with paprika (color), add the locos, salt, chili, hard boiled egg and a little of the broth the locos were cooked in. Form small empanadas and fry.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 13.5pt; margin-left: .5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: #545454;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwRp26RWP-F4szMATUcJ0METYZVnYy9ZYyt-yNwl_YbXzEl5HZxL-32i5lwo-zfMuq1u12jiH7bJmILZhqQMwOXVn8c6AUNfyIW8su35KAa0FbQQFjY8BEQPAx7eDtkjIwxTEO7UZ7IZE/s1600/New+Picture+%252817%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwRp26RWP-F4szMATUcJ0METYZVnYy9ZYyt-yNwl_YbXzEl5HZxL-32i5lwo-zfMuq1u12jiH7bJmILZhqQMwOXVn8c6AUNfyIW8su35KAa0FbQQFjY8BEQPAx7eDtkjIwxTEO7UZ7IZE/s400/New+Picture+%252817%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Locos are good for you too: 100 grams provide 120 calories, 21 grams of protein and only .5 grams of fat. (<i><a href="http://mazinger.sisib.uchile.cl/repositorio/lb/ciencias_quimicas_y_farmaceuticas/schmidth03/index.html">Tabla de composición química de alimentos chilenos<span style="font-style: normal;">)</span></a> </i>I found no data on their cholesterol content, but similar species like abalone and conch have 70 - 90 mg/100 gm., about 30 - 40% of the cholesterol in one large egg.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And for other Chilean seafood, see these links:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; line-height: 18px;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/eating-chilean-fish.html" style="color: #b87209; text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fish</span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/view-larger-map-salmon-cages-off-east.html" style="color: #b87209; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #400058;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Salmon</span></span></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, sans-serif; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/eating-chilean-mussels.html" style="color: #b87209; text-decoration: none;"><span style="color: #400058;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Mussels</span></span></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/04/eating-jibia-chilean-humbolt-squid.html" style="color: #b87209; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-decoration: none;"><i>Jibia</i>, Humbolt Squid</a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/06/machas-la-parmesana.html" style="color: #b87209; text-decoration: none;">Machas, Surf Clams</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; margin-left: 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2011/12/eating-chilean-erizos-sea-urchins.html"><i>Erizos</i>, Sea Urchins</a></span></div></div><div><br />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> Also called <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">pata de burro </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">(donkey foot) </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">and</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">chanque </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">in Peruvian Spanish. Wikipedia: <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concholepas_concholepas">Concholepas concholepas</a></i><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 10.5pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Jerardino, Antonieta, Juan C. Castilla, José Miguel Ramírez and Nuriluz Hermosilla. </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">1992 Early Coastal Subsistence Patterns in Central Chile: A Systematic Study of the Marine-Invertebrate Fauna from the Site of Curaumilla-1 </span>Latin American Antiquity, <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Vol. 3, No. 1 (Mar., 1992), pp. 43-62</span> <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Couyoumdjian, Juan Ricardo. 2009 El mar y el paladar. el consumo de pescados y mariscos en chile desde la independencia hasta 1930 Historia, Vol. 42, Núm. 1, enero-junio, pp. 57-107<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> As quoted in Reyes E. 1986. <span lang="ES-CL">¿Que paso con el loco?. Crónica de un colapso anunciado. Revista Chile Pesquero<i>,</i> N 36 Junio, pp. 143–145.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;">Gonzalez de Agueros, Pedro. 1791. Descripción historial de la provincia y archipiélago de Chiloé, en el Reyno de Chile y Obispado de la Concepción. Dedicada a nuestro católico monarca Don Carlos IV (que Dios guarde). Madrid: Impr. de Don Benito Cano. On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008627">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008627</a><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Molina, Juan Ignacio. 1967. Ensayo sobre la historia natural de Chile : Bolonia 1810 Santiago : Eds. Maule. pp. 212. On lin</span>e at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002868">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002868</a></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">Michel, Rudolph H</span></span><em><b><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;">. </span></b></em><em><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;">1992.<b> </b>Indigoid Dyes in Peruvian</span></em><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">and Coptic Textiles of The University Museum of. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black;">Archaeology and Anthropology. Archeomaterials 6:69-83.</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a> Couyoumdjian, <i>op. cit</i>.</span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> The major sources for the history and management of the locos fishery come from Reyes, Eduardo F. <span lang="ES-CL">1986. ¿Qué pasó con el loco? Crónica de un colapso anunciado.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">Revista Chile Pesquero N° 36, junio de 1986. </span>On line at <a href="http://200.75.6.169/RAD/1986/2_Reyes.pdf">http://200.75.6.169/RAD/1986/2_Reyes.pdf</a> and Gallardo, <i>op. cit.; </i>Gallardo Fernández, Gloria L. 2008. From Seascapes of Extinction to Seascapes of Confidence. Chapter 5. On line at <a href="http://journals.sfu.ca/coactionbks/index.php/Gallardo/article/view/38">http://journals.sfu.ca/coactionbks/index.php/Gallardo/article/view/38</a> and Meltzoff S. K., Lichtensztajn Y G & Stotz W. 2002. Competing visions for marine tenure and co-management: Genesis of a marine management area system in Chile. <i><span lang="ES-CL">Journal of Coastal Management</span></i><span lang="ES-CL"> 30: 85-99, 2002.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> Meltzoff, 2002. <i>op cit. </i>p. 88<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Anonymous. 1882. Nuevo manual de cocina: conteniendo 377 recetas de guisos escojidos de las cocinas francesas, española, chilena, inglesa e italiana: arregladas para el uso de las familias del país..</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Valparaíso : Libr.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">del</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';">Mercurio de Orestes L. Tornero p. 34 On line at </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #ff9900;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181</span></a></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn12"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Loco%20over%20locos.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span lang="ES-CL">Budge de Edwars, Olga. 1935 “Consejos útiles y pequeños secretos para obtener mejor resultado en la confección de estas recetas” </span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">p. 32-36 La buena mesa. 2a. ed. revisada y aumentada. Santiago : Imp. Universitaria</span><o:p></o:p></span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-1684527317979089962011-07-29T12:46:00.002-04:002011-08-07T11:18:21.378-04:00Chilean Lamb<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Per capita consumption of lamb in Chile is<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> exceedingly low. It’s around a half a kilo per <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">person per year, even less than horse meat. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Hardy Avilés, “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cordero todo el Año</i>”</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">I wonder why. It’s not the geography or climate; Chile produced around 3.4 million sheep in 2005, roughly the same number as pigs. But Chileans ate around 22.5 kg of pork, and less than a half kilo of lamb. Chile produces sheep, but exports them. Somebody else eats them.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFgfUteD2ZH5rq8N9Fwa0EcEgCT1XtTCJkQ-lSEjYAFp9Cw61JJP8PcxmkxWXEh-DbgMvrA5R5y5uaWtbCseAeu4_tSB4uYDvaSLB2Hy2d9h3S3IYwwE2YY_bEMqy158rvWTTjEF_O-FEH/s1600/Gay+atlas+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFgfUteD2ZH5rq8N9Fwa0EcEgCT1XtTCJkQ-lSEjYAFp9Cw61JJP8PcxmkxWXEh-DbgMvrA5R5y5uaWtbCseAeu4_tSB4uYDvaSLB2Hy2d9h3S3IYwwE2YY_bEMqy158rvWTTjEF_O-FEH/s640/Gay+atlas+8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Chilean <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">huasos</i> in wool ponchos with sheep, by Claudio Gay</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b>Maybe history can tell us why.</b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">The Spaniards who colonized Chile came from a nation of sheep. From the 12th to the 16th century wool from Merino sheep was a major source of Spanish wealth, and lamb (or mutton</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span">) was the major meat in the diet. Only Christians ate pork, and oxen were work animals, slaughtered mainly when old or sick. (Beef consumption remained low until the mid 20th century and Spaniards eat less beef than anyone else in Europe.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span">) But everyone, Christians, Jews and Muslims, ate lamb. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">So it is unsurprising that the sheep, a sturdy breed called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">churras</i>, came to the Americas early, brought by Columbus in 1493. From their arrival in the Antilles sheep were introduced into the other Spanish colonies, reaching Mexico by 1518, Peru by about 1530</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> and Chile in 1540 with Pedro de Valdivia.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> They prospered. In 1614 a remarkable 623,825 sheep (along with 323,956 goats, 39,000 cattle, and 4,278 horses) were reported to be in the district of Santiago.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">As in Spain, their meat was central to the diet; sometimes in great quantities: </span>Pereira Salas <span class="apple-style-span">notes that one Captain Martín de Ibarra “ate at one sitting a leg of roast leg of lamb, a boiled hen, two one-pound loaves of bread, and for dessert a large plate of fruit.” </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> Sheep, and lamb consumption, continued to prosper in the 18th century. Writing in the 1780s, <span style="color: black;">Juan Ignacio</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><em><span style="color: black; font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Molino</span></span></em><span class="apple-style-span"> found that:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="apple-style-span">Sheep transported from Spain have lost nothing in respect to size or wool, which remains long, fine and of a singular whiteness. Each sheep annually produces from ten to fifteen pounds. The meat of castrated lambs is of exquisite flavor and is often preferred to that of calves. </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">But that view was not universal. Writing of his experiences in the 1820s, British botanist and engineer, John Miers was less enthusiastic</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span">: <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrbcQS1zeeYX3tS-v7cYMv2HvpoLDBF7uTEyA_nZHeQPHKC_V-za7EenP7oNeV4tX70-RSjy1PhpvbpQucM4MnAOe8yWBN3gWg-aiWkhi4PG93piMJiMfJrr4timyMBqkhqCvdOTNUxW8/s1600/mutton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrbcQS1zeeYX3tS-v7cYMv2HvpoLDBF7uTEyA_nZHeQPHKC_V-za7EenP7oNeV4tX70-RSjy1PhpvbpQucM4MnAOe8yWBN3gWg-aiWkhi4PG93piMJiMfJrr4timyMBqkhqCvdOTNUxW8/s400/mutton.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><o:p> </o:p></span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqiTH0GeaETVJnwsbttT4aGucktEjmJImccko4lbetecr_u5W5P_f0vTsrylAfK_e_PBX7QAApIJVJ5bP4c_dVkD06I8iAB8VA9WxSLWysO3Wko_NBUIjLHPcaMVhgaPK-TaHafxV734b/s1600/New+Picture+%252811%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqiTH0GeaETVJnwsbttT4aGucktEjmJImccko4lbetecr_u5W5P_f0vTsrylAfK_e_PBX7QAApIJVJ5bP4c_dVkD06I8iAB8VA9WxSLWysO3Wko_NBUIjLHPcaMVhgaPK-TaHafxV734b/s200/New+Picture+%252811%2529.bmp" width="118" /></a>As usual with topics of 19th century Chilean agriculture, the most complete discussion is from Claudio Gay, the French botanist, naturalist and illustrator who wrote prolifically and authoritatively based on his research in the mid 19th century. He found Chilean sheep to have diverged significantly from their Spanish ancestors, due to harsh conditions and lack of selective breeding, </div><blockquote><blockquote><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">….but nevertheless as a whole they exhibit characteristics that are extremely favorable. Of medium size, closer to small than large, the are lively, nervous, with a slightly long head and a more or less cylindrical body, covered with short wool, curly, white and sometimes black. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(p. 451</span>)</span></blockquote></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claude_Gay"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Claudio Gay</span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">Gay’s discussion and data suggest that lamb was the major meat in rural Chile, and that it was even the original filling for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/07/pastel-de-choclo-corn-pie-mystery.html">pastel de choclo</a>,</i></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(p.162)</span><i>, </i><span class="apple-style-span">but that lamb consumption declined through time.</span> </div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="apple-style-span">Lamb consumption in Chile is quite large, but less than in earlier times when mid way through the 18th century the department of Maule with its scarce population slaughtered no less than 150,000 lambs a year. This consumption was and continues to be the basic animal food for the peasants, but especially for hacienda owners, who eat lamb alternately with jerked beef and poultry. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(p. 462)</span></span> </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In general the peasants and even the families of medium fortune in the small cities eat little more than beans, peas, etc. and rarely meat, only one day a week at most. The author of the<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> estadistica de Maule</i> [ca. 1830] calculates that each individual eats 51 lbs of meat a year: 5 lbs of beef, 30 ¼ of mutton and 15 ¾ of pork. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(p. 374). </span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="apple-style-span">Urban Chileans ate more meat than their rural counterparts, but here too lamb became less important through time. Based on slaughterhouse data, Santiago consumed approximately 40,000 sheep in 1773; 70,000 in 1842; 90,000 in 1859; and 105,000 in 1876. In 1773 Santígüenos consumed about equal quantities of lamb and beef, while in 1842 and 1859 they ate approximately three times more beef than lamb; and in 1876 about 3.4 times more beef than lamb. Gay estimates that in 1858 Santiago’s annual meat consumption was about 49 kg (108 lbs.) per person, presumably including about 12 kg. (26 lbs.) of lamb.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Southern Lamb</b><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">From the Rio Bio Bio River, some 300 miles south of Santiago, to Chiloé Island, lamb was more important than beef. On the mainland, controlled by the Mapuche until the 1880s, abundant anecdotal evidence suggests that lamb was the major meat eaten. German visitor Paul Truetler, who traveled among the Mapuche in the 1850s, speaks of the ”inevitable sheep” killed upon the arrival of visitors </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span>and </span>Edmund Reuel Smith, of the US Naval Astronomical Expedition, who visited Mapuche-controlled southern Chile in 1853 spoke very favorably of the mutton he ate there, usually boiled with a rich broth.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iqBsnemMryngTUcasZqI9P5orl5VTleZp-FpiKl7anJGnWJdeP445FDNRnHmssm1_bqSxEGlsuGdYSBKr4Q-0xJ14zcOqzeriL0GGqCyjlRk5-poyEs08JJuJs0trUxfmI62pc3RJT5Q/s1600/New+Picture+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_iqBsnemMryngTUcasZqI9P5orl5VTleZp-FpiKl7anJGnWJdeP445FDNRnHmssm1_bqSxEGlsuGdYSBKr4Q-0xJ14zcOqzeriL0GGqCyjlRk5-poyEs08JJuJs0trUxfmI62pc3RJT5Q/s400/New+Picture+%25281%2529.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">Sheep arrived in Chiloé in 1568, but the wet forested landscape was far from ideal for their propagation. Never the less, by 1783, 86,683 sheep and 2,160 rams, along with 17,307 goats, 3,780 cows, 1024 bulls and 8,426 pigs were reported in the statistical survey (although in the text the author said pigs were the most abundant animal.) </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> Beef was clearly a distant third.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWqdeAK9nMtq_UIbVuSE3J7w3ghyphenhyphenFNO8-app2N1tyAIy_UDVvhpe1peQ7VFLLd7q_BXvbWw4zpGQADEEjvuvr3CViSmgf0CetYtLBz4LRRX3ePlXA7doMQWbkqr7UrHxCQTX1hhfLCvxb/s1600/T+del+F+1908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWqdeAK9nMtq_UIbVuSE3J7w3ghyphenhyphenFNO8-app2N1tyAIy_UDVvhpe1peQ7VFLLd7q_BXvbWw4zpGQADEEjvuvr3CViSmgf0CetYtLBz4LRRX3ePlXA7doMQWbkqr7UrHxCQTX1hhfLCvxb/s400/T+del+F+1908.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="apple-style-span">Further south sheep production became a major industry in the late 19th century, but it had little influence on the meat on Chilean tables. Starting in the 1890s with importation of sheep from the Falkland Islands, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Magallanes</i>, Chile’s far southern province, became one of the world’s major centers of sheep production and by 1930 was exporting 600 to 800,000 head, canned and frozen. But little if any of this Patagonian lamb came north to central Chile where local production and consumption was a half million head per year</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> in a population of 4.3 million—under 10 lbs. per person. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tierra del Fuego Sheep, 1908 </span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #666666;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b>Eating Chilean lamb</b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">Most Chilean lamb<span style="color: #666666;"> </span>seems to have been boiled in soups and stews: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">carbonada</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pucheros</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/cazuela-chilean-comfort-food.html">cazuelas</a></i>, as was the case with the 1903 “working class family” whose diet was reported to consist largely of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cazuelas</i> of beef on weekdays (5 kg beef a week at 70 centavos a kg.) and of lamb on Sundays (.8 kg of lamb a week at 80 centavos a kg.).</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[15]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> Middle and upper class diet was probably more varied; the 1887 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">New Kitchen Manual</i> included 30 recipes for lamb along with 73 for beef, 46 for poultry and 18 for pork. Lamb recipes included mainly braised or stewed dishes, but also breaded and grilled lamb chops and numerous recipes for organ meats. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">This interesting recipe for muton stew with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">piñones </i>is among them:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><b>Carnero Guisado</b></i></span> </span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="apple-style-span">Fry a little bacon cut into cubes with a little minced onion; cut the meat, which should be from the leg, into pieces and place all in a pot with salt and pepper; fry lightly over a low fire and then add warm water; and when it is cooked add parsley, a leaf of mint [<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">yerba buena</i>], a heart of lettuce, soaked <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">piñones</i> [seeds of </span><i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/eating-pinones.html">Araucaria araucana</a></i><span class="apple-style-span">] and spices, all cut into small pieces, and when served, a little sour lemon [<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">agrio de lemon</i>].</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[16]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="apple-style-span">The late 19th and early 20th century increasingly brought foreign fashions to Chile, and French influence came to dominate the kitchens of the elite while heavily spiced Chilean Creole dishes fell from favor (see <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/10/in-chile-hot-isnt-cool.html">Do Chileans eat Chili?”</a>). It is tempting to believe that the spreading fashion for French food was accompanied by rejection Chilean dishes; especially those related to rural life—like lamb. But I found no evidence to support this, and in fact the classic </span>1911 Chilean French influenced cookbook, <i><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle2.asp?id=MC0012281">La Negrita Doddy</a>,</i> includes numerous lamb recipes, both French (lamb chops<i> a la Soubise; </i>lamb chops <i>a la Schiltilgheim</i>) and Creole (lamb <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/06/charquican-tomatican-and-other-cans_11.html">tomatican</a> a la Chilena; </i>lamb <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/10/broad-beans-and-peas.html">arvejado</a> a la Clarita</i>). There are even instructions for roasting a 5 lb. leg of lamb for only 45 minutes, which would result in a decidedly rare roast in the French fashion. And the very French <i><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003223">Famous Recipes from the Hotel Crillón</a></i> published in Santiago in 1951 continues to have lamb recipes: <i>Gigot de sept heures </i>(Seven hour leg of lamb), Saddle of lamb <i>a la francesa</i>, etc. It looks like lamb continued to be popular among the elite, at last enough be served in their restaurants.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>So if it was not a change in fashion or taste that took lamb off the tables of Chile’s middle and working class, what was it? </b><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Chilean ministry of agriculture places the blame on: </div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">…the myth that this meat has a high concentration of fat and is bad for the health because of its high level of cholesterol. This idea may have been reinforced by a lack of education and information for consumers, and by the lack of transparency in the supply of lamb; in many cases what is actually being offered is the meat of sheep or rams which is more frivolous, tougher, and fatter. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[17]</span></span></span> </span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal">But I suspect that this perception came after the fact: the decline in lamb consumption began long before health concerns about fat and cholesterol. Stories of experiences with strong mutton and unfounded fat and cholesterol concerns may be keeping lamb of the table of potential new buyers, but can hardly explain 150 years of decline. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>It was price. </b><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And I blush, materialist anthropologist that I am, not to have considered this first. The first hint came from the Sunday lamb dinners of the <i>Famila Obrero</i> above, at 80 centavos a pound in contrast to the daily beef at 70 centavos. From this 15% premium in 1903, lamb increased in relation to beef by from 23 to 36% in Santiago and from 4 to 41% in Valparaiso in 1948-50.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[18]</span></span></span></span> And since Chilean beef is almost always sold off the bone while cuts of lamb include bone, the difference per pound of eatable portion was even greater. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Perhaps this is why my wife’s middle class parents, with seven mouths to feed (10+ with <i>nana</i> and family) in the 1950s and 60s didn’t eat lamb, and why her children hadn’t tried it until her recently acquired Gringo husband served it to them. (They ate it, but haven’t added it to their household menus.) By mid century lamb became expensive, a luxury food for those who knew it and could afford it. But for the majority of Santígüenos, buying it simply didn’t and doesn’t occur to them.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Today Chilean lamb consumption is at its lowest point in history at only 200 grams per person per year—equivalent to about one good lamb chop—while production has fallen and exportation has increased.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[19]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">But there is lamb in Chile, even in Santiago. And now it is often less expensive than beef. Butchers in Santiago’s public market La Vega have lamb, as do specialty store <a href="http://www.gourmeat.cl/#titulo.html">GourMeat</a>, and Jumbo supermarkets (occasionally). Lider supermarkets seem to have it all the time, with the best selection in stores in working class neighborhoods, and I understand that Unimarc also has lamb. I buy my lamb at Lider, where it comes in packages of mixed cuts, usually frozen, currently at 3,500 CLP a Kg., $3.50 US a lb. It’s usually possible to select packages composed mainly of leg, shoulder or rib chops, but you have to do a bit of trimming. The legs are sawed through the bone and can easily be cut into leg steaks about ¾ ” thick, and the racks are cut through the back bone and can be cooked whole or cut into chops. Shoulder chops are also usually cut through the bone, but other pieces are simply “chunks,” good for the stew pot.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Lider’s lambs are small, as the photo of rib chops with a pork chop shows, but are tasty and appropriately tender; rib chops and leg steaks are good grilled while shoulders are a bit tougher and are better braised.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A lamb leg steak</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqy8hdBquFaDhbicdEEvvTT1Mvd8PJWg9hPBGZzAl_xtgc17Nn3b7eH4H3ioV_nqZzL13zqfShDil_Mgf3-7n8IOV_J46AB-wBm3xbUVSl6YSsiheX8hwTcbiP8lUEYSdTRY3KX3oZhHv/s1600/Lamb+leg+chop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqy8hdBquFaDhbicdEEvvTT1Mvd8PJWg9hPBGZzAl_xtgc17Nn3b7eH4H3ioV_nqZzL13zqfShDil_Mgf3-7n8IOV_J46AB-wBm3xbUVSl6YSsiheX8hwTcbiP8lUEYSdTRY3KX3oZhHv/s320/Lamb+leg+chop.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_bKaEtBsDuEXEEXGXWyGMNodG0yzZ1EFTQquvkiQicuNk5j5xdV189hBj1qDUX1LyisRJwW4_TnnJJ3nvlyP12p5cF2Yy74NgIaKlWpEi3d2kOtZniZT9TEdYjPNN9JinXBURkLhPn5B/s1600/IMG_4982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp_bKaEtBsDuEXEEXGXWyGMNodG0yzZ1EFTQquvkiQicuNk5j5xdV189hBj1qDUX1LyisRJwW4_TnnJJ3nvlyP12p5cF2Yy74NgIaKlWpEi3d2kOtZniZT9TEdYjPNN9JinXBURkLhPn5B/s320/IMG_4982.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70Tz7LCd0B2VlhKLgA5b4nBFtooZ3zYY3T2JGi14qPsa6nPgU0b-r02zW5Q0eOdP1Upx5iifW-HN8ryjawwAY4FV0wR4DDBOkk7ncSh78TxRUGWMDDHR2HTN0FWz1Nb-WSdrGq7vbHz9g/s1600/IMG_6077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70Tz7LCd0B2VlhKLgA5b4nBFtooZ3zYY3T2JGi14qPsa6nPgU0b-r02zW5Q0eOdP1Upx5iifW-HN8ryjawwAY4FV0wR4DDBOkk7ncSh78TxRUGWMDDHR2HTN0FWz1Nb-WSdrGq7vbHz9g/s320/IMG_6077.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Rib chops surrounding a pork chop</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
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</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Assorted shoulder chops.</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">GourMeat has better or at least more expensive lamb, and lamb is also available from local growers. “Allegro” posted this comment to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><strong><span style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://www.allchile.net/chileforum/post33408.html?hilit=i%20have%20a%20sheep%20farm#p33408"><span style="color: #105289; font-weight: normal;">Chile Forum</span></a></span></strong><strong><span style="color: #333333; font-size: 7.5pt;"> </span></strong></span><span class="apple-style-span">where a discussion of lamb was in progress:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I am a bit late to this discussion but I have to chime in because my husband and I have a sheep farm here. For one, if you do need lamb and have the capacity to store a whole one or can share it, you can buy lambs at almost any sheep farm in the central region. They won't advertise that they sell them but if you ask, they will sell them. In regards to the quality in the grocery stores, though... most, if not all, of the processed prime meat produced here gets exported. Our farm, for instance, sells to a particular prime meat broker (who does sell prime meats in Chile) and they export ours because we meet certain health standards required of the international market (my understanding is that most of the meat gets sent to Europe, not the US). None of our meat goes to market here in Chile. The meat that does go to market is that of the farms who do not meet the health standards (and I should add here that this doesn't meat it's *unsafe*, just not as desirable) or the farms in the south, which tend to produce less superior meat because they have lower grade grasses there because of the very short growing season. Ours and any of the lambs in the central region are entirely grass-fed and free-range and absolutely divine, in my opinion. It's better than anything I've had in the US. I've had lamb from other farms besides ours and they are just as good--no gamey flavor at all, lots of meat, absolutely incredible cooked over an open <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">espino</i> fire. If you do decide to venture out into the country a buy a lamb for yourself, keep in mind that Merinos have a milder flavor but Suffolk have more fat. I personally prefer Merino...</span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: #333333;">Lamb is also available at some restaurants. I have had good braised lamb shanks at </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #333333;"><a href="http://www.lacopafeliz.cl/segundosdetierraadentro.html"><span lang="EN-US">La Copa Feliz</span></a></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #333333;"> </span></i><span class="estilo12">and at <i><a href="http://www.casabosque.cl/">Casa Bosque</a>, </i>rib chops at<i> Las Vacas Gordas </i>and the Chilean classic, lamb </span><i>criadillas</i><span class="estilo12"> (AKA lamb fries or testicles) at <i><a href="http://www.chilesites.com/turismo_chile/5176_RESTAURANT_LA_PETITE_FRANCE.htm">La Petit France</a>. </i>Restaurants specializing in Patagonian food are sure to have lamb, and you may find it at <i>parilladas</i>, where the emphasis is on grilled meats.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="estilo12"><b>Chilean Lamb recipes</b><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="estilo12">There are lots, and the older cookbooks include many recipes for innards and less popular cuts, useful if you happen to have a whole lamb. Here are some of classic Creole/Mapuche lamb dishes.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><span class="estilo12">Spit Roasted lamb / <i><a href="http://airesdemitierra.webnode.com/products/cordero-al-palo/">Cordero al Palo</a><o:p></o:p></i></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbvzuj5uLnydho5rNi_QTcI3Ev7MMbtPQLoPZemi3ZFoO2TJmZnt4e34AjXBdAqI_gzAXZGr3ObCQtzkqquD0ePh85BYSPb4HwucUUKUejcQHjmzIe4HudHVtjHoh_a7I0167HBbMqfRg/s1600/IMG_2922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbvzuj5uLnydho5rNi_QTcI3Ev7MMbtPQLoPZemi3ZFoO2TJmZnt4e34AjXBdAqI_gzAXZGr3ObCQtzkqquD0ePh85BYSPb4HwucUUKUejcQHjmzIe4HudHVtjHoh_a7I0167HBbMqfRg/s400/IMG_2922.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 lamb</span></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 branch of maqui (Chilean wineberry) </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">(or an iron bar of about 1 inch/ 3 Cm. in diameter)</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">10 Kg. charcoal</span></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt</span></div><div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Cut the lamb into sections, season only with salt and skewer. The legs should be in the middle, the shoulders on either side, and the ribs on the sides. Roast with very little charcoal so that the lamb cooks slowly. It should roast for about three hours. Add additional charcoal during the last half hour for browning.</span></blockquote><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center; text-indent: .5in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="estilo12"><span lang="ES-CL">Lamb with peas / </span><i><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://otrascarnes.wordpress.com/cordero/">Arvejada de Cordero</a></span></i></span> </span></div><blockquote><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 lbs. leg of lamb, in cubes</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 medium onion, chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 cups peas</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 carrots, in half rounds</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">4 potatoes</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 cloves of garlic</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">½ cup vegetable oil</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 tablespoon of thyme</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt and pepper</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Fry the whole garlic cloves in oil until very brown and remove. Brown the lamb in the oil, then add the carrots and the onion. Fry until the onion is transparent then add a cup of water and boil slowly until the lamb is tender. Then add the potatoes and cook for an additional 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook until tender. Add additional water if necessary, and adjust the salt and pepper and add thyme if the lamb is “of advanced age.” </span> (also see the Arvejada de Cordero in <span class="estilo12"> “</span><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/03/mapuche-food-ethno-tourismethno_8690.html">Mapuche Food: Ethno Tourism/Ethno Gastronomy</a>.” <span class="estilo12">Here’s a <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjArddLvx2F6MoXd0j_Fd6yyTyV8QJK-nlM460LrUwbiQZyo1E-1UjWCogkNntosJgEdcP0iZ3LzKkgTrYq_gq8QRrxRoWqmzvMytBWTla2dGXIm7JWE9Ixz8vQhdsYWt7UJX2JDluTUvw4/s1600-h/IMG_6380.JPG">photo</a>.)</span> </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><span class="estilo12"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></o:p></span> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="estilo12">The next is a Mapuche dish that includes the <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/04/seaweed-cochayuyo-and-luche.html">luche</a>, </i>seaweed very similar to nori, (Japanese alga used for wrapping sushi) and <i>locro</i>, toasted wheat meal. If you aren’t in Chile use nori for the <i>luche</i> and make your own <i>locro: </i>toast wheat berries and grind them coarsely in a blender, spice grinder or sturdy mortar and pestle. For a more sophisticated version from </span>Chilean Chef Miriam Andrea Yunge Rojas, see “<a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/04/seaweed-cochayuyo-and-luche.html">Eating Chilean Seaweed: <i>Cochayuyo </i> and <i>Luche</i></a><i>” <span class="estilo12"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div style="border-left: solid white 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid white .75pt; mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 0in 0in 0in 0in;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Pot-au-fue of Luche and Lamb / <i>Cazuela de luche y corder</i>o<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[20]</span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; line-height: 14.4pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid white .75pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in; padding: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; line-height: 14.4pt; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Photo: </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://muninatales.blogspot.com/2010/12/cazuela-de-luche.html"><span lang="ES-CL">Municipalidad De Puerto Natales</span></a></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4GVNinTkYStObcBdBMWlT3k5MlD8-M1D4hZKqfKqLIE8t8EUqQj7fAI-ZVGMq9MF7UOzq2gkb1_Nrx2nWHDDeqljtOqjS-he-d3KOULRus73g6z6WfAIGN-KQHLv1YP_oCXTetUfY62J/s1600/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI4GVNinTkYStObcBdBMWlT3k5MlD8-M1D4hZKqfKqLIE8t8EUqQj7fAI-ZVGMq9MF7UOzq2gkb1_Nrx2nWHDDeqljtOqjS-he-d3KOULRus73g6z6WfAIGN-KQHLv1YP_oCXTetUfY62J/s320/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="border: none; line-height: 14.4pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid white .75pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in; padding: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 lbs potatoes</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">½ lb. zapallo (winter squash)</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 carrot</span></div></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 cloves garlic</span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 cup locro (wheat kernels toasted and ground)</span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">¼ loaf of luche (or nori, 5 – 10 sheets crumbled)</span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 - 3 shallotsCilantro</span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 lb. peas</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 lb. lamb shoulder or backbone</span></div><div style="border-bottom-style: none; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt, water and chili (fresh green chili or <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chili-in-chile-is-aji.html">merken</a>)</span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sauté the garlic, shallots, carrots and chili, then add the meat. When slightly browned add water to cover and boil until nearly tender. Then add the peas, potatoes and squash. When these are almost done, add the locro and boil 2 or 3 minutes more. Then add the cilantro and the luche, remove from heat and serve. </span></blockquote><div style="border-left: solid white 1.0pt; border: none; mso-border-left-alt: solid white .75pt; mso-element: para-border-div; padding: 0in 0in 0in 0in;"><br />
</div>And the <i>cridallas</i>? Your local Jumbo or specialty meat market should be able to supply them for this interesting Chilean recipe:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Fricassee of lamb fries / <i><a href="http://www.carneslaflor.cl/fricase_de_criadillas_de_cordero.html">Fricasé de Criadillas de Cordero</a></i></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px;"><br />
</span></div><div><div style="text-align: right;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">6 large or 12 small lamb fries – criadillas</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 medium onion, chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 two cups of fresh bread cubes</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 cups potatoes, peeled & cubed</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">½ cup carrots, cubed</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 cup peas</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 glass white wine</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 tablespoons of minced parsley</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 cups broth from the criadillas</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 eggs</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 hard boiled eggs, chopped</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1/2 cup vegetable oil</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 tablespoons butter</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> salt and pepper</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> <span class="ff2fc0fs10"><span style="color: black;"><i> </i></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="apple-style-span">Photo: <a href="http://oriolserra.blogspot.com/2007/04/visita-turstica-supermercados-jumbo.html">Oroyo</a></span></span></span></div></div><blockquote><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nJT0J1fy7tHeiBTTOSPw11mBgXJwHSW3XyMo6zLl2-QChLjrYYW9UrZtrrlli3cB8LreRe-Yiw1P7HbVlp4K9UbFPDZIc7IoHwh8wvPxtgAdJdyK-PeqyzcvFgnG8TTyIw0K6PKIQ4K2/s1600/New+Picture+%25288%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nJT0J1fy7tHeiBTTOSPw11mBgXJwHSW3XyMo6zLl2-QChLjrYYW9UrZtrrlli3cB8LreRe-Yiw1P7HbVlp4K9UbFPDZIc7IoHwh8wvPxtgAdJdyK-PeqyzcvFgnG8TTyIw0K6PKIQ4K2/s200/New+Picture+%25288%2529.bmp" width="200" /></span></a><span class="ff2fc0fs10"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Boil 6 large or 12 small <i>criadillas</i> in salted water for 15 minutes and reserve the broth. Peel the criadillas and cut into small cubes, and sprinkle with pepper. Fry the cubes in the oil mixed with the butter until lightly browned, and reserve. In the same skillet, fry the onion and carrots in a tablespoon of butter. Add the reserved criadillas, the parsley and the peas, a cup of the broth and the white wine. Boil covered for 5 minutes, adjust the seasoning and keep warm. Fry the potatoes abundant oil and when slightly brown, add the bread cubes and continue frying until the bread is well browned. Drain on paper towels and reserve. Beat the eggs, and off the heat, add to the pan with the <i>criadillas</i> so that they form a creamy sauce with the liquid. To serve pour the <i>criadillas</i> and sauce into a large platter, surround with the potatoes and sprinkle the hard boiled eggs and bread cubes on top, taking care that the bread cubes don’t mix with the sauce and loose their crispness.</span></span></blockquote><br />
<div class="imalignleft" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"></div><div class="imalignleft" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
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<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Avilés, Hardy. 2002 Cordero todo el año. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Campo Sureño, on line at <a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Avil%C3%A9s,%20Hardy.%202002%20Cordero%20todo%20el%20a%C3%B1o.%20Campo%20Sure%C3%B1o,%20on%20line%20at%20http:/www.australtemuco.cl/site/apg/campo/pags/20031213233217.html">http://www.australtemuco.cl/site/apg/campo/pags/20031213233217.html</a>; and </span></span><span style="color: black;">What Chileans Eat: The Chilean National Diet, <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/what-chileans-eat-chilean-national-diet_2689.html">Eating Chilean</a>. Chilean lamb consumption is probably a bit higher than this, since much Chilean lamb is eaten locally and does not enter national statistics. </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">See Riquelme Osses, below.</span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> There is no generic English term, equivalent to pork or beef, for the meat of sheep, Mutton is the meat of sheep over 2 years old, yearling lamb is meat of animals between 1 and two years old. But US usage refers to all sheep meat as lamb, so that’s what I do here unless mutton is referred to specifically. </span></div></div><div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> Spanish Cows and Beef. <span class="estilo73estilo78estilo35"><span lang="DE">Iberia </span></span><strong><span lang="DE" style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;">N</span></strong><span class="estilo73estilo78estilo35"><span lang="DE">ature:</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="DE"> </span></span><span class="estilo181"><span lang="DE">A guide to the natural history of Spain. On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.iberianature.com/material/cows.html">http://www.iberianature.com/material/cows.html</a></span></div></div><div id="edn4" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" style="mso-endnote-id: edn4;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Rodero</span><span lang="ES-CL"> A, Delgado JV, Rodero E 1992. </span>Primitive Andalusian livestock and their implications in the discovery of America. <span lang="ES-CL">Arch Zootec 41: 383–400; and Wikipedia </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merino"><span lang="ES-CL">Merino</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn5" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" style="mso-endnote-id: edn5;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Riquelme Osses, Jose Carlos. 2005. Medición de características productivas de ovinos raza texel del sector de Pillanlelbún en la IX región. Tesis de grado presentada como parte de los requisitos para optar al grado de: Licenciado en Medicina Veterinaria. </span>Temuco, Chile. On line at <a href="http://biblioteca.uct.cl/tesis/jose-riquelme/tesis.pdf">http://biblioteca.uct.cl/tesis/jose-riquelme/tesis.pdf</a> </span></div></div><div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" style="mso-endnote-id: edn6;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Villalobos, R. Sergio, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">et. al.</i> 1974 <i>Historia de Chile, Tomo 2</i> Editorial Universitaria, Santiago de Chile. p. 174 (Google Books)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" style="mso-endnote-id: edn7;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a> <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Pereira</span></span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> Salas, Eugenio. 1977. Apuntes para la historia de la cocina chilena. </span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Santiago</span></span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">: Universitaria. p. 30 On line at </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0006512"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #11593c; text-decoration: none;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0006512</span></span></a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn8" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="mso-endnote-id: edn8;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Molina, Juan Ignacio. 1987. Ensayo sobre la historia natural de Chile : Bolonia 1810 Santiago : Eds. Maule. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002868">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002868</a> </span></div></div><div id="edn9" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" style="mso-endnote-id: edn9;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> Miers, John. 1826. T<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">ravels</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">in</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Chile</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">and</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">La</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Plata</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">,</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Including</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Accounts</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Respecting</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">the Geography, Geology, Statistics, Government, Finances, Agriculture, Manners and Customs, and the Mining Operations in</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">Chile</span></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">. Collected During a Residence of Several Years in these Countries. Vol. 2 London: Baldwin, Cradock & Joy. p. 312 (Google Books)</span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" style="mso-endnote-id: edn10;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> Gay, Claudio. <span lang="ES-CL">1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo I. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 376, 451 & 462. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a><span lang="ES-CL"> </span>; and Vicuna Mackenna, B. 1877. <span lang="ES-CL">De Valparaiso a Santiago: datos, impresiones, noticias, episodios de viaje. Santiago: Imprenta de la librería de El Mecurio. P. 25 On line at </span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentos.asp?id_ut=elferrocarrildevalparaisoasantiago(1849-1863)"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentos.asp?id_ut=elferrocarrildevalparaisoasantiago(1849-1863)</span></a></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="apple-style-span">Gay explains that sheep average about 100 lbs live weight and dress out to about 65 lbs. of meat, and since there are corresponding figures for beeves slaughtered and their weights.</span> Here (for the arithmetically inclined) are my calculations:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -1.0in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoNormalTable" style="border-bottom-style: none; border-collapse: collapse; border-color: initial; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none; border-width: initial; margin-left: 64.5pt; width: 405px;"><tbody>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: none; border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-right: none; border-top: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-top: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1773<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-top: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1842<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-top: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1859<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: none; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: solid windowtext 1.0pt; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1876<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 1;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Beeves <o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">6,925<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">33,373<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">41,500<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">57,658<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 2;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">lbs. meat<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2,770,000<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">13,349,200<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">16,600,000<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">23,063,200<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 3;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 4;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Sheep<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">39,904<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">70,691<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">91,250<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">105,653<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 5;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">lbs. meat<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2,593,760<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">4,594,915<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">5,931,250<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">6,867,445<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 6;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border: none; height: 12.75pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></td> </tr>
<tr style="height: 12.75pt; mso-yfti-irow: 7; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;"> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-right: none; border-top: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 66.0pt;" valign="bottom" width="88"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Ratio beef/ lamb<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 55.3pt;" valign="bottom" width="74"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1.1<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2.9<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">2.8<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> <td nowrap="" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; height: 12.75pt; mso-border-bottom-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-right-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 60.85pt;" valign="bottom" width="81"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">3.4<o:p></o:p></span></div></td> </tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Note that this data is for fresh meat and does not include beef jerky or lambs slaughtered informally.</span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div></div><div id="edn11" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" style="mso-endnote-id: edn11;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Treutler, Paul. Andanzas de un alemán en Chile, 1851-1863. Santiago: Editorial del Pacifico.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn12" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" style="mso-endnote-id: edn12;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Smith, Edmund Reuel. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">1855. The Araucanians; or, Notes of a Tour among the Indian tribes of</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Southern Chile. </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">New York: Harper &amp; brothers. p. 269 On line at http://</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/books.google.cl">books.google.cl</a></span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn13" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" style="mso-endnote-id: edn13;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[13]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #2e3f4c;">Beranger, Carlos de. 1893 Relación jeográfica de la provincia de Chiloé. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #2e3f4c;">Santiago de Chile : Impr. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Cervantes. p. 41 On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0014220">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0014220</a></span></div></div><div id="edn14" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" style="mso-endnote-id: edn14;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[14]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Correa Vergara, Luis. 1938.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>Agricultura Chilena, tomo II<i>.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>Santiago: Imprenta Nascimenta. P.197</span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn15" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" style="mso-endnote-id: edn15;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[15]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Eyzaguirre Rouse, Guillermo. 1903. Monografía de una familia obrera de Santiago. Santiago, Chile : Imprenta Barcelona. </span><span style="color: black;">On line at</span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0001500"><span style="color: #11593c;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0001500</span></a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn16" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref16" name="_edn16" style="mso-endnote-id: edn16;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[16]</span></span></span></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Anonymous. 1882. Nuevo manual de cocina: conteniendo 377 recetas de guisos escojidos de las cocinas francesas, española, chilena, inglesa e italiana: arregladas para el uso de las familias del país. Valparaíso: Libr. del Mercurio de Orestes L. Tornero. p. 50. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">On line at </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181</a>.</span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn17" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref17" name="_edn17" style="mso-endnote-id: edn17;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[17]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Fundación para la innovación agraria. 2003. Calidad en producción de carne de ovina. Boletín de Ovinos. Ministerio de Agricultura. On line at </span><a href="http://www.fia.gob.cl/difus/boletin/bovinos/bovabril2003.pdf">http://www.fia.gob.cl/difus/boletin/bovinos/bovabril2003.pdf</a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn18" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref18" name="_edn18" style="mso-endnote-id: edn18;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[18]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Almonacid Zapata, Fabián. </span></span><span lang="ES-CL"> La agricultura Chilena discriminada (1910-1960): una mirad de las políticas estatales y el desarrollo sectorial desde el Sur. Madrid: <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">S.A. de Fotocomposición. p.347 On line at </span><a href="http://books.google.com/"><span lang="ES-CL">http://books.google.com</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn19" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref19" name="_edn19" style="mso-endnote-id: edn19;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[19]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Producción y consumo de carne, 2010. Enfoque estadístico. Abril 2011. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.ine.cl/filenews/files/2011/abril/pdf/enfoque_carnes_web.pdf">http://www.ine.cl/filenews/files/2011/abril/pdf/enfoque_carnes_web.pdf</a> and production and export chart is from <a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/www.odepa.gob.cl">www.odepa.gob.cl</a></span></div></div><div id="edn20" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/lamb/Chilean%20Lamb%20post.doc#_ednref20" name="_edn20" style="mso-endnote-id: edn20;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[20]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Recipe adapted from Alcafuz, Antonio. 2003 Kumiyal. Comida mapuche huilliche. Programa Nacional de Salud para Pueblos Indígenenas, Servico de Salud de Osorno. Osorno, Imprentas America, as quoted in Montecino Aguirre, Sonia. 2006. Identidades, mestizajes y diferencias sociales en Osorno, Chile. Lecturas desde la Antropología de la Alimentación”. Tesis Doctoral,</span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
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</div></div></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-1402124128161423152011-05-11T10:17:00.005-04:002011-06-21T18:25:18.623-04:00Plateada – Chilean pot roast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEhuhz7e3GeeQXAsajnmyPHCfP8P2K0DLilHchWJUKHzP32i-Ja8BhyphenhyphenxLrw3ZA9wdvoyQIgDAxjF92TYecis0djMp3_kkFFdrtxiF_qTt2VDxJiMOt198KCfXjgaTrlVopBS4feTFIoEm/s1600/IMG_8702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEhuhz7e3GeeQXAsajnmyPHCfP8P2K0DLilHchWJUKHzP32i-Ja8BhyphenhyphenxLrw3ZA9wdvoyQIgDAxjF92TYecis0djMp3_kkFFdrtxiF_qTt2VDxJiMOt198KCfXjgaTrlVopBS4feTFIoEm/s1600/IMG_8702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><div class="MsoNormal">With the changing seasons—<st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city> does have seasons, you know--my wife puts away my shorts and tee-shirts and brings out the corduroy jeans, long sleeved shirts and sweaters. And wants winter food; this time it was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada a la caserola</i> with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">puré de porotos</i>, Chilean pot roast with bean puree.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKLagTIZnviVf2oGkNj_bcKOLKye6Q4y3xu-JtaDvdoi_ABP4nhtceW94lByUyTwHmj7nIdrqYzZ-LLfVvHb6DZmPFQ6l5Qjtt-Ki0CSQ9g9hyphenhyphenbBpQWVZ09vC7_anIdGkGigC2DLS9myOj/s1600/New+Picture+%25284%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKLagTIZnviVf2oGkNj_bcKOLKye6Q4y3xu-JtaDvdoi_ABP4nhtceW94lByUyTwHmj7nIdrqYzZ-LLfVvHb6DZmPFQ6l5Qjtt-Ki0CSQ9g9hyphenhyphenbBpQWVZ09vC7_anIdGkGigC2DLS9myOj/s640/New+Picture+%25284%2529.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Roberto Marín’s <i>plateada -</i> <a href="http://lolovera50.wordpress.com/2009/12/22/plateada-y-mechada/">La Cocina de Lolo</a>’s version</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Plateada</i> is among the 10 most popular home cooked dishes in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile </st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span> and appears of the menu of every restaurant serving traditional Chilean Creole cuisine. It is usually served as pictured, sliced with a little “of its own juice.” <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Plateada</i>, literally “silver plated,” is a cut of beef, uncommon in English speaking countries where it is called “rib cap.” It is a flat muscle (the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Spinalis dorsi</i> if you really want to know) that is above the rib eye. The “silver” refers to the silvery skin on the rib side of the cut; on the other side is a thick layer of fat.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The rib cap is labeled “2” and shown in cross section in the rib-eye steak photo below. Of course most <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/12/eating-chilean-beef.html">Chilean meat cuts</a> are boneless following the lines of the muscles instead of being cut across the grain, so it comes as a flat, irregularly shaped piece of meat weighing a kg. or so. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</o:p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLH_QRIdfzGzeFGEmQdq42sq6osii4PAB5RQoTQ2LP7BZUNmcCp5DrwBtV0pJRzp_-7bS3pz15gxNVrQ_LBYzBkCB_wlXMgy_s8rpsmXDsltdQnCYlBTR0Gl6wOMwKowkuPg2egafgirhq/s1600/2isplateada.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLH_QRIdfzGzeFGEmQdq42sq6osii4PAB5RQoTQ2LP7BZUNmcCp5DrwBtV0pJRzp_-7bS3pz15gxNVrQ_LBYzBkCB_wlXMgy_s8rpsmXDsltdQnCYlBTR0Gl6wOMwKowkuPg2egafgirhq/s200/2isplateada.bmp" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeOCHRI-MHN98WmUvojlDtJiBEymZHxXEKnirENoLWhGmedo2mdITsGUehmYIbf6eWeaN-FFVixOUZEpI497PXwfUAvMJW1YFmJGPZdit7SgX9YWFnJVXjLBIrhMXpEYkckuMTeuN5FLI/s1600/New+Picture+%25282%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOeOCHRI-MHN98WmUvojlDtJiBEymZHxXEKnirENoLWhGmedo2mdITsGUehmYIbf6eWeaN-FFVixOUZEpI497PXwfUAvMJW1YFmJGPZdit7SgX9YWFnJVXjLBIrhMXpEYkckuMTeuN5FLI/s200/New+Picture+%25282%2529.bmp" width="200" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Photos: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> plateada </i>or rib cap in <a href="http://www.asados.cl/club_del_asador/tecnicas_asador.php#11">cross section</a> ….and <a href="http://www.asados.cl/club_del_asador/tecnicas_asador.php#11">whole</a>, trimmed square.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Cooking <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada a la cacerola</i></span></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">“A tremendous national dish of great substance and marked meaty taste,” says </span></span>Chef Roberto Marín Vivado in <a href="http://www.dcc.uchile.cl/~ppoblete/biz/cocina/recetas/plateada.html">Chileans Cooking Chilean Style</a>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada a la cacerola</i> is “<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">very tender and flavorful when prepared according to the rules. It’s offered in all corners of the country with the announcement "Here's the best dish of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>," ……which in vast majority of the time is a fallacy”. He continues:</span></span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">The errors that they always make in preparing <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada</i> are:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;">1.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">Removing all the covering of fat, leaving it thin and naked;<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;">2.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">Not marinating it long enough;<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;">3.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">Not browning it well enough;<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;">4.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">Not browning the onion and carrot with witch it is cooked;<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;">5.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">Adding water which gives the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada</i> the appearance, consistency and flavor of boiled meat and makes it watery besides.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; tab-stops: list 1.0in; text-indent: -.25in;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">His instructions are to get a “big thick and fat” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada</i> and if necessary remove some of the fat yourself, “don’t let the butcher do it.” Rub it with four cloves of pureed garlic, salt and abundant freshly ground pepper—“at least two of three teaspoons.” Put it in a sealable plastic bag with three tablespoons each of olive oil and red wine vinegar, expel the air, and put it in the vegetable section of the refrigerator for one or two days.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">Heat three tablespoons of oil until almost smoking in a shallow wide pot with a lid. Remove the meat from the bag, drain thoroughly, reserving the marinade, and put in the hot oil, fat side down. Brown over high heat to a deep brown color, “I insist, an intense brown color.” If the meat is too big for the pan, cut it and brown in two batches, then remove.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">In the abundant fat in the pan, brown four big onions, cut into eighths, and two big carrots cut into thick rounds until they are a nice golden color. Add the meat, any meat juices that have collected, and the remaining marinade. Cover the pan tightly and simmer for an hour, turning the meat from time to time. “Remember, don’t add water!”<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">Transfer the contents of the pan to a pressure cooker and cook for 30 minutes. Then check for tenderness and if necessary, cook longer. If you don’t have a pressure cooker, continue to simmer in the original coverer pan for another two hours. In this case, add a little water if necessary to replace the liquid lost in cooking—but in small quantities “to avoid producing boiled meat.”<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">When the meat is tender, remove from the pan and cut into ¾ inch thick slices across the grain of the meat. Return the slices to the pan and simmer again until you take it to the table in a deep serving plate with all its juices.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEhuhz7e3GeeQXAsajnmyPHCfP8P2K0DLilHchWJUKHzP32i-Ja8BhyphenhyphenxLrw3ZA9wdvoyQIgDAxjF92TYecis0djMp3_kkFFdrtxiF_qTt2VDxJiMOt198KCfXjgaTrlVopBS4feTFIoEm/s1600/IMG_8702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSEhuhz7e3GeeQXAsajnmyPHCfP8P2K0DLilHchWJUKHzP32i-Ja8BhyphenhyphenxLrw3ZA9wdvoyQIgDAxjF92TYecis0djMp3_kkFFdrtxiF_qTt2VDxJiMOt198KCfXjgaTrlVopBS4feTFIoEm/s640/IMG_8702.JPG" width="584" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"> My <i>plateada a la cacerola</i> with spicy bean purée</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">In winter serve with the traditional Chilean stewed beans, or spicy bean purée; the rest of the year with rice and mashed potatoes and in summer, with <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/02/beans-porotos-granados-and-others.html"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">porotos granados</i> </a>(shell beans) or salads.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">*********</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;">For once I followed the recipe religiously (more or less---I sieved the juices and left the sad brown veggies behind) and the photo above is what I got. No pressure cooker, but I didn’t have to add water since the vegetables created plenty of liquid and my pan has a tightly sealing lid. The meat was tender but not falling apart with a very meaty flavor and the juices were rich and slightly sweet from the onions and carrots. And in classic Chilean style, there was just enough ‘juice’ to moisten the meat… abundant gravy is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not</i> Chilean and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">does not</i> go over the mashed potatoes. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qz10rU1HOlBkIUvtOlM840U81Dqm8SjNdTkS7hOUfCqYQBwW8FIaOzdEot1_eL90uw71B9wh6Uaet6lRGBWTcYs768Nh9qAXeRI5jksC42PyK_5BrFSNB49Ux5yHVvRx5NfQbEacfSoT/s1600/New+Picture+%25285%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qz10rU1HOlBkIUvtOlM840U81Dqm8SjNdTkS7hOUfCqYQBwW8FIaOzdEot1_eL90uw71B9wh6Uaet6lRGBWTcYs768Nh9qAXeRI5jksC42PyK_5BrFSNB49Ux5yHVvRx5NfQbEacfSoT/s1600/New+Picture+%25285%2529.png" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Qz10rU1HOlBkIUvtOlM840U81Dqm8SjNdTkS7hOUfCqYQBwW8FIaOzdEot1_eL90uw71B9wh6Uaet6lRGBWTcYs768Nh9qAXeRI5jksC42PyK_5BrFSNB49Ux5yHVvRx5NfQbEacfSoT/s1600/New+Picture+%25285%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJFbaMtDNgGF-4pYXQzXCfpsuRafYRiu17zLbEYxptfAAOYkdvz_7Du3cdwTpJhX2NNlCpyvKGPSSDNdoCBiOo4ragS5VIiobAfx7Zp_uaUZ3ITLg-u_lskafi-69bgUtxQdEiSXXWR8xL/s1600/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJFbaMtDNgGF-4pYXQzXCfpsuRafYRiu17zLbEYxptfAAOYkdvz_7Du3cdwTpJhX2NNlCpyvKGPSSDNdoCBiOo4ragS5VIiobAfx7Zp_uaUZ3ITLg-u_lskafi-69bgUtxQdEiSXXWR8xL/s320/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" width="225" /></a><span style="color: black;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
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</span></div>Or in this case, over the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">puré picante de porotos</i>, the spicy bean puree, which in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> is made from “peeled beans.” They need only 30 to 40 minutes cooking (the package says 20) before being pureed with an emersion blender or food mill. To season the puré, sauté abundant minced bacon with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chili-in-chile-is-aji.html">merkén</a></i> (Chilean ground smoked chili) and paprika for heat and color. When rendered, add minced onion to brown in the fat, and then garlic. Mix with the bean puré and, to make it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">muy chileno</i>, add Chilean <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aliño completo </i>to taste. It’s<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s own <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">masala</i> (complete seasoning) composed of cumin, paprika, oregano, garlic, chili, and pepper). <span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s a good pot roast, and of course can be made with other braising cuts: chuck/<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sobrecostilla</i>, brisket/<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tapapecho</i>, eye of round/<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pollo ganso</i>, etc.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; text-align: center;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">*********</span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">But why is <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s favorite pot roast the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada</i>, a cut most of us have never heard of? <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Prior to the 20<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century (and during a good portion of it) most Chilean beef came from free ranging <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Criollo </i>cattle, descendants of stock brought by the Spanish in the 16<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> and 17<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> centuries. Four hundred years of natural selection to life in the Chilean central valley produced a strong, vigorous and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">tough</b> (in all senses of the word) breed of cattle. The 1882 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">New Kitchen Manual</i> recommends this: <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 140.25pt;"> </div><blockquote><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Method for tenderizing meat before preparing it</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> – Before putting on to roast or stew, beat or pound very forcefully for a minute with a wooden rolling pin; this simple operation is the secret for tender and delicate meat. </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">[</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">2]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And although I found no discussion of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plateada</i> in any historic Chilean cookbook explaining its popularity, I think it's because it turns out to be among the tenderest cuts of beef, ranking 3<sup>rd</sup> in tenderness after the tenderloin and the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_iron_steak">flat iron steak</a>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span> In the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">USA</st1:place></st1:country-region> it appears occasionally as “rib cap steak” or rolled, as:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: 'Freestyle Script'; font-size: 48pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;">Midwestern Rib Cap</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKttWkxhZ8tsveBDJ6PRHfvS8dhX5CIA6hpRBFJXACBSAG8_6afWRKFkZNZISRH_XyOfsBC_Z46oaQjhA8BhER-M7r2F33fK8G7NVn2XAxOibdmZbRp1tWnz118pwSaK3KPsCmekfh_4a/s1600/Midwestern+rib+cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKttWkxhZ8tsveBDJ6PRHfvS8dhX5CIA6hpRBFJXACBSAG8_6afWRKFkZNZISRH_XyOfsBC_Z46oaQjhA8BhER-M7r2F33fK8G7NVn2XAxOibdmZbRp1tWnz118pwSaK3KPsCmekfh_4a/s400/Midwestern+rib+cap.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px;">“Buckle your seat belts Ladies and Gents; this one is going to knock your socks off. A little known cut that will amaze you in taste and texture. The flavor is so intense that almost any description will fall short. A very rich cut so 8 ozs would be a safe serving size. This is a very unique piece of meat, and equally difficult to find, so remember where you saw it.”</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #990000;"> </span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #424242; font-family: Calibri; font-size: 15px;"><a href="http://www.bryansfinefoods.com/product.php?prod_id=132">Bryans Fine Foods</a></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #424242;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span">And here’s a report on rib cap steak from <a href="http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/284632">Chowhond</a>, a North American food site:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8IlM5P3_HTAxLYQ2EWZsNqh__vR1AcUcyZdbDSDDMnyNDNYqGQDHvyc3wQsTut3WWKkUnRh4aJRPB_IEbIUEVu2bdJhjUZogGw-Rmf96iusQq7c4F8DjVez8sgDO2HxnmJkuOt_lWHMSL/s1600/rib+cap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8IlM5P3_HTAxLYQ2EWZsNqh__vR1AcUcyZdbDSDDMnyNDNYqGQDHvyc3wQsTut3WWKkUnRh4aJRPB_IEbIUEVu2bdJhjUZogGw-Rmf96iusQq7c4F8DjVez8sgDO2HxnmJkuOt_lWHMSL/s400/rib+cap.jpg" width="400" /></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"Okay, then -- you wanna know how it tasted. Let me tell you, folks, it did not disappoint. It was every bit as tender as a filet mignon, but with all the beefy flavor a filet never has. Ridiculously juicy, magnificently meaty. The best of all possible words."</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span">Hummm…. Maybe I’ll grill the next one.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Plateada.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Terra, Blog Gouyr.net. El Terremoto se quedó con el premio Bicentenario. </span>2010-03-26. On line at<a href="http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?pagina=blog_comentario&idpost=16733&idblog=16&titulo_url=El_Terremoto_se_quedo_con_el_premio_Bicentenario">http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?</a></span></div></div><div id="edn2" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Plateada.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Anonymous. 1882. Nuevo manual de cocina: conteniendo 377 recetas de guisos escojidos de las cocinas francesas, española, chilena, inglesa e italiana: arregladas para el uso de las familias del país. p. 40. </span><span style="color: black;">Valparaíso : Libr. <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">del</st1:place></st1:state> Mercurio de Orestes L. Tornero On line at </span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181</a></span></div></div><div id="edn3" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Plateada.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" style="mso-endnote-id: edn3;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> Calkins, Chris R. and Gary Sullivan. n.d. Ranking of Beef Muscles for Tenderness. Calkins, Chris R. and Gary Sullivan.. BEEF FACTS Product Enhancement. On line at <a href="http://www.beefresearch.org/CMDocs/BeefResearch/Ranking%20of%20Beef%20Muscles%20for%20Tenderness.pdf">http://www.beefresearch.org/CMDocs/BeefResearch/Ranking%20of%20Beef%20Muscles%20for%20Tenderness.pdf</a></span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-38693229390237138332011-04-30T13:59:00.005-03:002016-12-16T09:45:46.525-03:00Vegetarian Chile<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you arrived here in search of that North American favorite, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>vegetarian chili</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, you have misgoogled; this is about vegetarian food <u>in</u> Chile. But it might be worth reading further; </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> has an extensive repertory of meatless dishes that fed the upper classes on meatless Fridays and the poor all year round.</span></div>
<blockquote>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The food of the country people is very simple…. most of the time eating vegetables and above all potatoes, beans, peas, wheat and corn boiled like rice or as toasted flour, and on rare cases meat, preferring to sell the animals they raise and never lack. When it is the hacienda owner who feeds them, they seem to still be in the middle ages for the great uniformity of their food, because it is made up of only a single plate of beans in the north and peas in the south, simply cooked in water or seasoned with a little fat or pork cracklings. This is the diet of all year round, which they prefer and request, feeling that it makes them strong and long suffering for their work, which the results seem to confirm.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Whether the Chilean peasantry’s diet was largely meatless by choice, as Claudio Gay’s 1860s work suggests, or through poverty, as is more likely (note that food for festivals and weddings was <u>not</u> meatless) they developed a large variety of meatless dishes, some now classics of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s Creole cuisine.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The food of the indigenous Mapuche, which blended with colonial Spanish cooking to produce Creole cuisine, was based on maize, potatoes, common and lima beans, squash, and quinoa, along with the meat of domesticated llamas and wild game, fish and shellfish. Some of today’s popular meatless dishes are direct descendants of Mapuche foods:</span><br />
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<b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Humitas</span></i></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, Chilean tamales (and incidentally the subject of the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/humitas-chilean-tamales.html">first post</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> in “Eating Chilean”) continue to be among the 10 most popular Chilean home cooked foods.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> The original Mapuche </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>humitas </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">were made solely of maize (corn) picked while still in the milky stage, but today’s </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>humitas</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> also include lard, onion and basil, though a vegetarian or vegan version is a simple modification of the recipe in the link above.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/02/beans-porotos-granados-and-others.html">Porotos Granados</a></i></b>, shell beans cooked with corn and squash, are also among Chileans’ top ten home cooked meals. Cranberry beans are boiled with a bit of onion. When within 30 minutes or so of being done, winter squash (<a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/03/zapallos-pumpkins-and-squash-gourds-of.html">zapallo</a>) is added, and when it has cooked soft, corn cut from the cob is added and cooked for an additional 10 minutes until the stew is thick. For a more detailed and illustrated recipe, take a look at <a href="http://bearshapedsphere.blogspot.com/2010/01/porotos-granados-vegetarian-chilean.html">this one</a> by Chilean Gringa blogger Eileen Smith. And for a winter version using dry beans and spagetti, there is <i><a href="http://www.vegventures.com/2010/09/30/porotos-con-rienda-or-bean-and-pumpkin-soup-chile/">Porotos con riendas</a> </i>(beans with reins).</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/06/charquican-tomatican-and-other-cans_11.html">Tomatican</a></i></b>, another Chilean Creole dish with indigenous origins, is a stew of tomatoes, corn, and onions, which may include meat, lima beans or <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/02/eating-iquique-seafood-and-aji.html">cochayuyo</a></i>, eatable kelp. Vegetarian versions are common and have entered the international repertory of meatless dishes. Here is a recipe from <a href="http://recipebox.wordpress.com/2006/12/30/tomatican/">Mooswood Restaurant Cooks at Home</a>. The version with <i>cochauyo</i> seems not to be available elsewhere in English, so here’s one adapted from <i><a href="http://recetasdelujo.com/12494/tomatican-de-cochayuyo/">Recetas de Cocina</a>.</i></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-weight: normal;"> Bundled... and packaged <i>cochayuyo</i></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Incidentally </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-weight: normal;"><i>cochayuyo </i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">is an excelent addition to meatless cooking of all kinds. types.</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> it replaces meat in dishes ranging from stews and soups to pastas to empanadas.</span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There are several more recipies in English at </span><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/04/seaweed-cochayuyo-and-luche.html">Seaweed: <i>Cochayuyo</i> and <i>Luche</i></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: #701b51; font-family: "arial"; font-weight: normal;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-weight: normal;">It is occasionally available by mail in the <st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region> at <a href="http://www.amigofoods.com/coexalexdelu.html">Amigo Foods</a> or <a href="http://store.tuchileaqui.com/coexentrte80.html">Tu Chile Aquí</a> and in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> at <a href="http://ecologicos.cestaecologica.es/lang-en/productos-ecologicos/110-alga-cochayuyo.html">Cresta Ecologia</a>. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">Vegetarianism as a movement, which began in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><st1:country-region w:st="on">England</st1:country-region></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"> in 1847</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">, seems to have arrived in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"> in the late 19</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><sup>th</sup></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"> century, along with many other European influences. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><i>Der Vegetarier</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"> for June 15, 1891: “Herr Rudolf Franck describes the progress of Vegetarianism in Chili. Though the Valparaiso Society numbers only 12 members, it possesses a library and reading room, but, as yet, no restaurant. The chief reason for this want is the difficulty in finding a manager.” Three years later “the Valparaiso Vegetarian Society, which was founded in 1889, now counts 25 members, mostly Germans...” </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">By the 1930s, there were evidently enough Chilean vegetarians to support publication of a cook book, the 1931 </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Manual of Chilean Vegetarian Cuisine</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5] </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> which, along with many French, Spanish and Italian recipes (pastas, tortillas, vegetable pies and puddings) includes a variety of clearly Chilean dishes: pancurtas (dumplings or noodles for soup), maize chupe (chupes are milk based stews), humitas, stewed hominy, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>cochayuyo</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> “meatballs,” </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>cochayuyo</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> pudding, fried </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>cochayuyo</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, stuffed </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>cochayuyo</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, etc.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Her recipe for Stewed Hominy (</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>mote de maiz guisado</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">) is as follows: </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">First pass the maize kernels through clear lye, and when the husks are loose, remove them and boil until cooked, then grind in the machine [food mill], fry in vegetable shortening with a little minced onion and parsley and lighten with milk. To serve, top with two egg yokes, grated cheese and cream, and surround with fried potatoes.</span></blockquote>
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Among those Chilean vegetarians of the 1930s the most famous today is Manuel Lezaeta Acharán, author of <i>La Medicina Natural al Alcance de Todos </i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span> (<i>Natural Medicine in Reach of Everyone</i>), which by 1989 had been published in 148 editions around the world and was the most-read book of natural medicine in Latin America.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeStaulArSjWnh62Zxx6Ft15Wud8X1MSUlVuBrioKxiK6n-YLMZ4-dzZvrJbkVijBzzIWa64yfUcYExi14DgHlIEjngz073QXINXnLQIhBVcI1lyHpeWIsCftM2ZjVln22420U4VWN5pXl/s1600/New+Picture+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeStaulArSjWnh62Zxx6Ft15Wud8X1MSUlVuBrioKxiK6n-YLMZ4-dzZvrJbkVijBzzIWa64yfUcYExi14DgHlIEjngz073QXINXnLQIhBVcI1lyHpeWIsCftM2ZjVln22420U4VWN5pXl/s320/New+Picture+%25283%2529.jpg" width="246" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />
Born in 1881, he entered the University of Chile medical school in 1899, but was forced to drop out because of syphilis and gonorrhea, then incurable. After unsuccessful treatment by numerous conventional physicians, he met German priest and practitioner of hydrotherapy and diet therapy Tadeo de Wiesent, who returned him to health in a few months. Thereafter, completely disillusioned with conventional medicine, he devoted his life to study and practice of natural medicine. He became an attorney and Professor of Spanish and History at the Santiago Institute of Humanities, and traveled through out the Americas promoting his Thermal Doctrine of the Science of Health. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">His ten rules for health are:</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Breathe pure air. Eat exclusively natural products. Be sober constantly. Only drink plain water. Be very clean in every way. Dominate the passions, seeking greater chastity. Never be idle. Rest and sleep only as necessary. Dress simply and with ease, and Cultivate all the virtues, trying to always be happy.</span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Lezaeta Acharán’s dietary philosophy is based on what he considers to be natural law: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The natural order establishes that the mineral kingdom sustains the vegetal and the vegetal sustains he animal, from which results that ingestion of mineral substances, as are almost all pharmaceutical products, is to introduce extraneous materials into the organism that should not be assimilated and thus need to be eliminated. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(p. 7)</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Knowledgeable persons… have demonstrated without a doubt, that man is fructivorous that is, that his organism is constituted to feed itself on fruits. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Darwin</st1:city></st1:place>, Lamark, Haecke, etc. have confirmed that the physiological analog of the man is the fructivorous ape. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(p. 8)</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The meat of animals has not been destined to feed man and, more than food, it is a stimulant owing to the toxins that it possesses, among which are creatine, creatinine, cadaverin, etc., which injected into a rabbit in small quantities cause its sudden death. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(p. 8)</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Many think that a fruit diet is insufficient because shortly after having eaten they feel the need to eat again. On the other hand a plate of meat or beans or “satisfies” the person for several hours. This is explained because fruits and seeds are digested and assimilated easily without leaving unhealthy residues. In contrast a piece of meat or a plate of beans require an extended effort that makes the individual feel full for the four hours or more required for digestion, or better said, for “indigestion.” <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">(p. 98)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The diet he recommends is based on fruits, seeds, leaves and roots, and includes limited amounts of whole grain bread, soft cheeses, hard cooked eggs, honey, milk, olives and even wine, but meats, fish and legumes (beans, lentils, etc.) are to be avoided:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Breakfast:</b> Only raw fruits in season or dry if fresh are not available. Lacking this, a plate of raw oatmeal soaked in water for 20 minutes or more, and sweetened with honey or raisins, figs or bananas. </span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Dinner at mid day: </b> Freely if hungry, preferring salads with olives or chopped hard cooked egg, vegetables in season with nuts, omelets of vegetables mixed with egg, fresh cheese [<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">quesillo</i>] or raw sugar; a little bread is possible if it is whole grain or toasted. Avoid lunch meats, fried foods, and condiments such as pepper or mustard.</span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Supper: </b>If hungry one may eat as in mid day, but in smaller quantities. Generally a salad or a bit of raw fruit will be sufficient. Eat slowly and deliberately to generate abundant saliva. Avoid sweets, conserves, milk, aged cheese, soft cooked eggs, and meat broths. Don’t smoke. (p. 181)<o:p></o:p></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Lezaeta Acharán’s teachings continue to be followed in Latin America and <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city>’s </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";"><a href="http://www.vidanatural.cl/getmanager/bienvenidos"><span lang="EN-US">Villa de Vida Natural</span></a></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";"> </span></i><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_edn8" name="_ednref8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial";">includes a spa, hotel and restaurant with reasonable prices for meals and stays of one to 10 days. Other <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Villas</i> exist in <a href="http://www.venezuelasite.com/portal/Detalles/11064.html">Venezuela</a>, <a href="http://www.tuugo.com.co/Companies/centro-naturista-vida-natural/12300046468">Colombia</a>, <a href="http://visita.jalisco.gob.mx/wps/portal/ContElGrullo/?WCM_GLOBAL_CONTEXT=/portalturisticocultural/contenidosptc/atractivos/el+grullo/atractivos/atractivo+el+grullo+-+centro+naturista+daniel+arreola">Mexico</a>, and perhaps elsewhere. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";">In spite of Lezaeta Acharán’s fame, vegetarians remain a distinct minority in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, where annual per capita meat consumption is now over 81 kg. (just under ½ lb. per day), but meatless meals continue to be a regular part of many households’ diets. Recipes in the most recent (April, 2011) edition of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s major food magazine, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.paula.cl/cocina/">Paula Cocina</a></i> are almost all meatless (presumably for Lent), and my wife’s family has always had occasional meatless dinners; usually once a week or more. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Our most popular meatless dishes are tortillas, Spanish style omelets, and vegetable tarts or pies; both of which I learned from my wife.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial";">Tortilla Española<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYU7zF3gqL9HxU5jAenco_4OOR3P8VYtgxi-Nal7xf31k2ajotrsxtTtdXnHNLlVMqJ-q9J3m2RVbm7A_DYM-__gSCSTyXA9e1R5Z53nn3Yx2MePWeIHSi8Oga_b2nCZg3pXqIDRvLb5Gt/s1600/IMG_5859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYU7zF3gqL9HxU5jAenco_4OOR3P8VYtgxi-Nal7xf31k2ajotrsxtTtdXnHNLlVMqJ-q9J3m2RVbm7A_DYM-__gSCSTyXA9e1R5Z53nn3Yx2MePWeIHSi8Oga_b2nCZg3pXqIDRvLb5Gt/s400/IMG_5859.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Tortillas are literally “little cakes” a term the Spanish applied to the Mexican maize bread, the Aztecs called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">taxcal</i>, and to little breads or cakes most everywhere. But this tortilla is a mixture of eggs and vegetables (sometimes meats are added) eaten as a main course or cut into small pieces as appetizers or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tapas</i>. Serve hot or at room temperature.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The classic Spanish tortilla contains potatoes and onions, but an infinity of tortilla varieties are popular in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region> and in here in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> as well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The basic procedure is to precook the vegetables, season with salt and pepper, mix with beaten eggs and allow to soak for a few minutes. The mixture is then poured into a hot, well-oiled skilled and cooked slowly until about ¾ set. The tortilla is then turned over (<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY1SfngjJPw">here’s how</a>) and cooked a few minutes more, until the center is set but still moist.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";">Tortilla de porotos verdes </span></i><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: "arial";">(green beans)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5oyWASBOd-oGqS_fyM3cjQSvNMkDsMi-KjC1Kl6Rs_4bGCVIzGJrRycnfYQuNgBWiRHgOFDMo_-tRKg-ewFZ_woBxBPEUeThbOW0moLMhY0DGbfAyAohQ1wJde7HCURXvr58n-udWQdfa/s1600/IMG_6339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5oyWASBOd-oGqS_fyM3cjQSvNMkDsMi-KjC1Kl6Rs_4bGCVIzGJrRycnfYQuNgBWiRHgOFDMo_-tRKg-ewFZ_woBxBPEUeThbOW0moLMhY0DGbfAyAohQ1wJde7HCURXvr58n-udWQdfa/s400/IMG_6339.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The classic Spanish tortilla of potatoes and onions calls for the vegetables to be simmered in olive oil until cooked, but not brown, then drained and added to the eggs. For a slightly less caloric version parboil the thinly sliced potatoes for a few minutes instead of frying. Green beans, another family favorite, are also best parboiled, as are broccoli, cauliflower, etc., but spinach, zucchini, chard, peppers, mushrooms, tomatoes, eggplant, etc. are best sautéed in olive oil along with a few sliced onions. Very wet vegetables like spinach, chard, tomatoes and zucchini should be drained or squeezed to remove most of their liquids. A tablespoon or two of flour added to the eggs is also a good idea with many fillings to prevent watery tortillas. And while not traditional, cheese also makes a good addition.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Some of our favorites are spinach and onion, French cut green beans with mushrooms, sliced zucchini with red bell peppers, potatoes with bell peppers, caramelized onions, and so on. And of course a tortilla is a great way to use leftovers. Do you have leftover rice, Brussels sprouts and winter squash? Make a tortilla.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Another favorite is a vegetable pie, a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de verduras</i>, like my wife’s green bean, onion and mushroom tart below. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">The procedure is to make a pie crust, then parboil the beans and sauté the mushrooms and onions. Mix with blanched green beans and moisten with cream (½ cup or so), fill the crust and top with a lattice of pie dough. Bake in a moderate oven until the crust is brown. Spinach or chard also makes a good filling. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vegetarian restaurants and products<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city> is not <st1:city w:st="on">Portland</st1:city> (said be the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s most veggie friendly city), but there are a few vegetarian restaurants; tofu, quinoa, textured soy protein, and a wide variety of grains and legumes are available if you know were to look; and there are fresh fruits and vegetables in great variety and low cost in <i>ferias, </i>“farmer’s markets." On the other hand, non-vegetarian restaurants (except Chinese restaurants) seldom have main dishes without meat or seafood, and most shortening and margarines contain fish or animal fats, so breads and pastries are suspect. </span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Links:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">“<a href="http://www.santiagomagazine.cl/food/providencia-bellavista-recoleta/00589-vegetarian-endeavor-santiago">The Vegetarian Endeavor in Santiago</a>” in <i>Revolver Magazine</i> has restaurant reviews.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reinaldo’s blog: <a href="http://nano.quodvis.net/blog/index.php?m=09&y=08&entry=entry080911-083037">Tiendas de comidas vegetarianas</a> (Stores with vegetarian foods) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><a href="http://cocinademercado.blogspot.com/">Cocina del mercado</a></i> A blog on vegetarian cooking and recipes by the chef/owner of one of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>’s best known Vegetarian restaurants—in Spanish.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.allchile.net/chileforum/food-chile.html">Chile Forum: Food in Chile</a>. An English language forum with a search function where you can search for (and find!) where to buy tofu, soy milk, etc.</span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 10pt;">[1]</span></span></span></a> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">Gay, Claudio. 1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo 2. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 161. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">T</span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">erra, Blog Gouyr.net. El Terremoto se quedó con el premio Bicentenario. </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">2010-03-26. On line at </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?pagina=blog_comentario&idpost=16733&idblog=16&titulo_url=El_Terremoto_se_quedo_con_el_premio_Bicentenario"><span style="color: #400058; text-decoration: none;">http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?pagina=blog_comentario&amp;idpost=16733&amp;idblog=16&amp;titulo_url=El_Terremoto_se_quedo_con_el_premio_Bicentenario</span></a></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span></span></a> The Modern Vegetarian Movement. How Vegetarians Work. On line at <a href="http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/vegetarian2.htm">http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/vegetarian2.htm</a> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span></span></a> History of Chile Vegetarian Societies, international Vegetarian Union on line at <a href="http://www.ivu.org/history/societies/chile.html">http://www.ivu.org/history/societies/chile.html</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Vergara Díaz, Lucía. 1 931. <i>Manual de cocina vegetariana chilena</i>. Santiago: Impr. </span>Gutenberg, selected chapters on line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/dest.asp?id=manualdecocinavegetarianachilena">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/dest.asp?id=manualdecocinavegetarianachilena</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Lezaeta Acharan, Manuel. 1997. Medicina natural al alcance de todos, 2nd Edition. Mexico, D.F.: Editorial Pax. On line at <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=MNWWLzxYkywC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Manuel+Lezaeta+Achar%C3%A1n&hl=en&ei=k3i5TdraGubk0QG64uzmDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CDAQ">Google books</a><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Manuel Lezaeta Acharán. Wikipedia Español. </span>On line at <a href="http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manuel_Lezaeta_Achar%C3%A1n">http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manuel_Lezaeta_Achar%C3%A1n</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Vegetarianos/Vegetarian%20Chile.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[8]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Villa De Vida Natural “Manuel Lezaeta Acharan”, Tomas Moro 261, Las Condes. Telefonos 716 3250</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-76299764271947171912011-03-24T18:44:00.007-03:002013-11-04T09:31:42.354-03:00Eating Caribbean - Cartagena de Indias, Colombia<div class="MsoNormal">
If you read this blog regularly you know that I occasionally drift off subject to report on vacation food. This time it’s for the cuisine of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Cartagena de Indias</st1:place></st1:city>, Colombia, where we spent a week this March. </div>
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<st1:city w:st="on">Cartagena</st1:city> de <st1:country-region w:st="on">Indias</st1:country-region>, so named to avoid confusion with its Spanish namesake, is on the Caribbean coast of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Colombia</st1:country-region> where its tropical climate, Afro-Latino population and cuisine are similar to those of other <st1:place w:st="on">Caribbean</st1:place> societies—but with some distinct local touches. </div>
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<o:p> </o:p>Where to begin? With <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">the</b> characteristic dish of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Cartagena</st1:place></st1:city>, of course: fried fish, coconut rice, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">patacones</i> and salad. Every Cartagena Creole restaurant serves it, sometimes under the name <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Plato Costeño</i> (Coastal Plate) or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bandeja Tipica Caribeña</i> (Typical Caribbean Tray), and at lunch time throughout the old city street vendors are eating the same dish out of Styrofoam boxes.</div>
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<i>Pargo</i> (red snapper) with Creole sauce, coconut rice and <i>patacone</i></div>
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<i> Trentis Restaurante, Calle Sargento Mayor</i></div>
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The fish, usually plate size or smaller, is slashed on each side, then deep fried with no breading or batter. Preferred fish are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pargo</i> (red snapper), <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">robalo </i>(snook) and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mojarra</i>, but any small white-flesh fish or filet of a larger fish seems acceptable. We even had one (forgettable) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bandeja Tipica</i> on a tour where the fish was frozen <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">merluza</i>, hake. </div>
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And its a great spot for an evening beer.</div>
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Coconut rice, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">arroz con coco</i>, is rice cooked in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coconut_milk">coconut milk</a>; not the liquid from inside green coconuts, but the “milk” made by adding hot water to grated coconut meat and squeezing out the creamy liquid. Canned unsweetened coconut milk can also be used.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Recipes from </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Cuisine of <st1:city w:st="on">Cartagena</st1:city> de <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Indias</st1:place></st1:country-region></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20in%20Cartagena.doc#_edn1" name="_ednref1" title="">[1]</a></span></div>
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And <i>patacones</i>? Fried rounds of green plantains, called <i>tostones</i> in other parts of the <st1:place w:st="on">Caribbean</st1:place>.<br />
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Shrimp, locally called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">langostinos</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">camarones, </i>are also a favorite menu item. At left are fried <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">langostinos </i>over a mound of mashed plantain (similar to Puerto Rican <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mofongo</i>) with a sauce of sweet<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aiphanes_horrida">corzo</a></i>, a palm fruit.<br />
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Left <i><span lang="ES-CL">Langostinos</span></i><span lang="ES-CL"> from Cafe Krioyo</span></div>
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Sweet sauces are also prominent in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Cartagena</st1:place></st1:city>’s meat cuisine. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Posta Negra Cartagenera </i>(Cartagena pot roast)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>is a classic: rump roast braised in a dark sweet sauce which may (or may not) include tomatoes, red wine, Seville orange juice, red soda pop and/or soy sauce.<br />
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<i>Posta Negra Cartagenera, </i>Café Krioyo</div>
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A Google search finds a dozen or so recipes, all in colloquial Colombian Spanish… and all different. I’ve translated a simple one below from <i><a href="http://www.prolatin.com/colmesa/index.php">Colombia en la mesa</a></i>. (Note that tropical beef needs the moist intense heat of a pressure cooker, but you can also braise it for 3 ½ hours or so, or use a slow cooker.) </div>
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Pork is also served with sweet fruit based sauces. One evening I had pork ribs braised in beer and tamarind sauce, the headline dish on the menu of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Cocina de Carmela</i>, a neighborhood one-waitress-one-cook, chalkboard-menu restaurant with an interesting blend of <st1:place w:st="on">Caribbean</st1:place> and international dishes. It’s not self service, in spite of the sign, and the food makes up for the décor. </div>
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<span lang="ES-CL">La Cocina de Carmela, Calle de Badillo</span></div>
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And, of course, Cartegana fruit is always available from street vendors, with tomatoes, peppers, pineapples, mangoes, papayas, plums, passion fruit and even <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cashew">marañón</a> or cashew apple, the yellow fruit at left with the cashew on the end. <br />
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But for the real <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Cartagena</st1:city></st1:place> fruit experience, have a fruit salad from one of the handsome <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&safe=off&q=palenqueras+de+cartagena&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&sa=X&ei=16uLTfTRJqSU0QH_vImKDg&ved=0CCoQsAQ&biw=1173&bih=666">Palenqueras</a></i>, among the most photographed women in the world.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOKf06fPuVAiKEOquuRQWA3ItpaUzSrrSLhueXBh6YpGftFw51D8rsJYPfgM792AV_JZ_YkfPAn6uAAvZ6vnR3lCGWMgitwGHYKrSxH4l_iBguZdkWUwjxuDgoICZV9gYatCgT-0FvpMQ/s1600/IMG_8219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUOKf06fPuVAiKEOquuRQWA3ItpaUzSrrSLhueXBh6YpGftFw51D8rsJYPfgM792AV_JZ_YkfPAn6uAAvZ6vnR3lCGWMgitwGHYKrSxH4l_iBguZdkWUwjxuDgoICZV9gYatCgT-0FvpMQ/s640/IMG_8219.JPG" width="506" /></a></div>
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Doña Angeilna<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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For more about Cartagena, see my <a href="http://jimblogchile.blogspot.com/2011/04/cartagena-de-indias-colombia.html">travel blog</a>.</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20in%20Cartagena.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Román de Zurek, Teresita and Estella Arango de Morales Angel De M. 2001 </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=vhroS_TYpV4C&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+Cuisine+of+Cartagena+de+Indias:+Legacy+of+the+Spanish+cooking+in+Colombia&source=bl&ots=1hprIhg-3D&sig=9oGX8okCIjdgquYqzvlHiMmCeqY&hl=en&ei=gE-LTfKlCbCK0QGqk5SPDg&sa=X&oi=book_result&">The Cuisine of Cartagena de Indias: Legacy of the Spanish Cooking in Colombia</a>. p.100 & 130. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Ediciones Gama</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">S.A.</st1:country-region></st1:place> on line at <a href="http://books.google.com/">http://books.google.com</a></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-9907524007313764362011-02-28T17:10:00.009-03:002018-04-27T11:33:14.765-03:00Chilean Cheese<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is difficult to start a post about Chilean cheese without invoking the old saw about <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region> having one religion and 100 kinds of Cheese while <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">England</st1:place></st1:country-region> has 100 religions and only one kind of cheese… but I will restrain myself. <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> has four major kinds of cheese: <i>queso mantecoso</i> or <i>Chanco,</i> buttery cheese; <i>queso fresco</i> or <i>quesillo</i>, farmers’ cheese; <i>queso de cabra</i>, goat milk cheese; and “gauda” an industrial cheese that usually comes sliced. (...and one religion.)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="ES-CL">Quesillo</span></i><span lang="ES-CL"> and <i>queso mantecoso.</i></span></span></div>
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<b><i><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Queso Chanco</span></span></i></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cheese from Chanco is exported along the entire coast and is preferred by <i>aficionados</i> for its excellent taste. It is very buttery and always sells for a higher price than the rest. In the countryside they are content to get a little dry rennet from a cow’s innards and dissolve it in water and this is used to coagulate the milk. The curd is placed in a wooden mold and is well pressed to squeeze out the whey, and then salt is added and it is pressed for another day and then left to dry. Claudio Gay 1860s<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Queso Chanco,</i> now a generic term interchangeable with Chilean <i>queso mantecoso</i> (“buttery cheese”) produced anywhere in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, continues to be preferred by aficionados. It is an excellent cheese, mild tasting, soft but firm enough to slice. And it melts beautifully. It is similar to American supermarket <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Munster</st1:place></st1:state> in texture and to some degree, in taste.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Queso mantecoso</i> is produced by cheese makers of all levels, from fully industrialized processors like COLÚN and Soprole, that together produce almost 60% of Chilean cheese (other than farmers’ cheese)<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span>; to authorized gourmet artisanal producers like Puile, producer of 5,800 kg of cheese a year;<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span> to small farmers who make a few kg. a week from the raw milk of their own cows using traditional methods like those Gay recorded in the 1860s.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The <i>chanco </i>cheese most Chileans buy is, of course, from the industrial processors whose cheese is sold in supermarkets. Supermarket <i>queso mantecoso </i>sells from around 4,000 to 6,000 Chilean pesos a kilo ($3.75 to 5.75/lb.) and on any given day, one brand may be more and another less expensive. If you prefer your cheese to be a little sharper—although none will be very sharp—choose the least expensive: it is likely to be older and nearer its expiration date.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In a 2005 blind tasting of these cheeses three judges from the Circle of Chilean Food Writers (<i>Círculo de Cronistas Gastronómicos de Chile</i>) considered “aroma, glossy appearance, presence of abundant eyes [holes] and of course, intense and complex taste in the mouth: salty, slightly acid, also sweet, and hopefully, the characteristic taste of herbs that good milk has. And soft texture, very soft.” The best “attack the nose with a delicious buttery elegance; melt in the mouth with sweet, acid and intense tastes of milk and of the country. Unfortunately all are industrial cheeses…, but some are very good; really notable.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Farm cheese vendor, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city> market<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To my taste the farm cheeses are better, but perhaps that’s just from knowing that they are made by farmers rather than corporations. When we go to the Chilean lakes district I by cheese from small merchants in Pucón or <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city>, or from the ladies selling cheese along side their eggs and produce on the street corners. Some are flavored with <i>merkin</i>, smoked chilies ground with colander, or with oregano. There is a certain risk involved; these cheeses are made from raw milk under hygienic conditions that leave much to be desired, but it’s a risk that I’m willing to take. They are really good cheeses (but see below “</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Safety and artisanal farm cheese</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">”). </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="ES-CL">Quesillo</span></i></b><b><span lang="ES-CL"> or <i>queso fresco </i>– Farmer’s Cheese <o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Quesillo</i> is a simple fresh cheese made from cow’s milk (from full fat to skim), rennet and a little salt. It is silky smooth, just firm enough to slice or cut into cubes, and with a clean, fresh, mildly acidic taste, similar to cottage cheese, but much better since it has much less salt, and no preservatives, flavorings, sugars, gums, colorants, etc. (Cottage cheese has a bunch.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_edn6" name="_ednref6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></a>) We eat it at breakfast, as an appetizer, in salads (especially layered with slices of tomato and basil leaves), on sandwiches, and in place of ricotta in lasagna and similar dishes.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><span lang="ES-CL"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is widely available in supermarkets (67% made by Soprole) but can also be made at home. Chilean-American blogger Pilar has an illustrated recipe for <i><a href="http://www.enmicocinahoy.cl/2008/06/chilean-fresh-cheese/">Quesillo Chileno</a></i>. </span><b><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: x-small; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Photo </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://queridacomida.blogspot.com/2010/08/querido-quesillo.html">Querida Comida</a></span></span></span></span></i></b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial";"><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://queridacomida.blogspot.com/2010/08/querido-quesillo.html"></a></span></span></span>Queso de Cabra</span></i></b><b><span lang="ES-CL"> – Goat milk cheese<o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Uv03_1N0J-QcAE4vNufxDzFN_KQT4JWIzovghnaJH6Pb6lTSEPZw9YKBXz08YaipikiRVyIqEKlFsueav9CM2ispTp3kCubEvo3KRaLHJ1ZT5foTsTA9y-6JvREzD7b8VY8Jp1-YLzjo/s1600/IMG_3007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Uv03_1N0J-QcAE4vNufxDzFN_KQT4JWIzovghnaJH6Pb6lTSEPZw9YKBXz08YaipikiRVyIqEKlFsueav9CM2ispTp3kCubEvo3KRaLHJ1ZT5foTsTA9y-6JvREzD7b8VY8Jp1-YLzjo/s320/IMG_3007.JPG" width="320" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chilean goat milk cheese is made by nationally known industrial producers like </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.quillayes.cl/index.php?accion=productos&act=1&gru=2">Quillayes</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, by gourmet artisanal producers like </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.quesosarturito.cl/productos.html">Quesos Arturito</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, and by hundreds (thousands?) of small family producers. The industrial and gourmet artisanal varieties are usually semi hard. Quillayes describes theirs as having “smooth texture and intense aromatic flavor.” They are similar to feta (which is </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>very</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> difficult to find in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">) and make a good substitute for it.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chilean farm goat milk cheese is a semi soft cheese, with low acidity and mild flavor. It is usually made by family producers from the <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city> area north into the<i> </i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norte_Chico,_Chile"><i>norte chico</i></a>, from the unpasteurized milk of their own goats. Following an outbreak of food poising in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city> in 1990, public health regulations were imposed on cheese production. As explained by American anthropologist William Alexander:</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The law requires that all sites of cheese production have potable water, hygienic services for workers, sterilized equipment, special corrals with concrete floors or milking rooms where goats are milked one at a time on platforms away from animal feces, and clean rooms where cheese is pressed and set out to mature. Families who have been making and selling this product for generations milk their animals in their corrals, press the cheese into hoops by hand in their kitchens, and leave it on shelves in cool, dry rooms in their houses, most of which have neither running water or electricity.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></blockquote>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Several cooperative cheese factories, meeting these regulations, have been set up in the</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>norte chico</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, but most farm goat cheese producers continue to make cheese under traditional (unhygienic) conditions. Alexander says that cheese vendors on the roadsides of the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><st1:place w:st="on">Pan-American highway</st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Ruta 5</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (and presumably other public locations) are inspected regularly and sell only cheese from registered makers, but a great percentage of farm g</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">oat cheese is made by unregistered producers. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city> area goat cheese is available from artisanal producers in the <i>cajon <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">del</st1:state></st1:place> maypo</i> in the mountains south east of the city. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is delicious cheese, usually only a day or two old, thought the flavor improves with a week or so in the refrigerator. </span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Safety and artisanal farm cheese</span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although the artisanal farm cheese makers I have met seem careful about cleanliness, their cheese is produced under potentially unhygienic conditions, and there is some risk in eating it. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The most serious risk is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brucellosis">brucellosis</a>, a chronic disease which may persist for life, but which is rare in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>, with frequencies similar to those of the <st1:country-region w:st="on">United States</st1:country-region> (<st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> has .06 cases per million population; the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">US</st1:place></st1:country-region> .04/million<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span>.) Less serious <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foodborne_illness">food borne illness</a>, with symptoms like intestinal flu, usually lasting a few hours to several days, may be caused by wide variety of bacteria that may contaminate cheese.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chilean studies of artisanal farm goat milk cheese making in the late 1980s found:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">…serious sanitary defects in all the cheese making process, although the major contamination occurred during milking, followed by the process of cutting the curd and filling the moulds in which there is excessive manipulation and a complete lack of hygiene. While no <i>Brucella melitensisI </i>bacteria were found in the goat milk, the food poisoning associated with cheese consumption is attributed to a toxin produced by <span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="color: black;">Staphylococcus aureusI </span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">and the significant load of fecal coliform bacteria encountered. </span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Your perception of the risk-benefit ratio of farm artisanal cheese may be different from mine (and should be, if you are very young, very old, have reduced immunities, or really hate the likely symptoms), but we buy and enjoy farm goat cheese a few times a year and have been lucky: no illness. </span></span>Alexander writes: </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the countryside, everyone eats it. In the city, those coming from a rural background or with family in the country were often enthusiastic about its cheese. This enthusiasm sometimes seemed like a badge of honor showing their support for the <i>crianceros</i> [goat herders] in the controversy [over the regulations]. Others who identify themselves as urbanized and "modern" may only buy the factory variety of handcrafted cheese sold in the supermarket. (For my firmly middle-class 80-year-old landlady in the city the cheese I brought in from the countryside was a guilty pleasure. She believed the risks as reported in the media, but could not resist eating it from time to time and she found my interest in it to be amusing.)<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></blockquote>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>Gauda</i> or gouda type cheese, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s most popular <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTwNDlHTJ7wUfXGDLtb5gJDgOYBQ-KCeMNHPkzcwAMl4aGmrxWBA_aw8QjOHQgg4qD0F6J3xmJvs8flURrWzFNf3nGBZfZ_WslQEjE_bP4N_8eZ8RnFJVTbHtSIZGT9YQ8uE78RBNRvq0x/s1600/queso+gauda.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTwNDlHTJ7wUfXGDLtb5gJDgOYBQ-KCeMNHPkzcwAMl4aGmrxWBA_aw8QjOHQgg4qD0F6J3xmJvs8flURrWzFNf3nGBZfZ_WslQEjE_bP4N_8eZ8RnFJVTbHtSIZGT9YQ8uE78RBNRvq0x/s1600/queso+gauda.bmp" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chilean <i>gauda</i> is an industrial cheese, usually sold sliced in supermarkets or in large blocks to restaurants or food processors. It is the cheese of sandwiches, fast food, frozen pizza, mass produced empanadas, etc., filling the role that processed “American cheese” does in the USA. G<i>auda</i> comprised 70% of the cheese sold in Chile in 2004. At that time Chile’s annual per capita cheese consumption was about 4 kg., compared to over 14 kg. in the US,<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span> but consumption is rising in both countries, as cheese is a major ingredient in fast food; cheeseburgers and the like.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">According to a Chilean urban myth, it is made of potatoes, but an expert on the Chilean cheese industry explained that “what happens is that <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">gouda</st1:city></st1:place> is an acid cheese, with a lot of humidity, and this texture feels like that of potato starch, but it really isn’t.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I think that means that <i>gauda</i> isn't made from potatoes; it just tastes like it might be. It's not terrible, and it's real cheese with no added ingredients, not processed cheese, "cheese product," or "cheese food" like some American counterparts. But its similarity to <st1:city w:st="on">gouda</st1:city> from the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Netherlands</st1:place></st1:country-region> is <i>very</i> remote. </span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Other Cheese in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In addition to these cheeses, there is hard cheese sold as <i>queso parmesano</i> and <i>queso reggianito</i>, grated and in pieces: the <i>reggianito</i> is pretty good. There is also Chilean industrial cheese sold as <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Edam</st1:place></st1:city>, gruyere, “<i>tipo roquefort</i>,” camembert, brie, provoleta, etc.; as well as gourmet artisanal cow, goat, and sheep milk cheese.<b><span style="color: #336699;"> </span></b>And there are imported cheeses from the <st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region> and the EU, as well as from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Argentina</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Brazil</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Still, some cheeses are difficult to find, especially sharp cheeses which are not generally to Chilean tastes: feta, sharp cheddar, etc.<o:p></o:p></span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(<span style="color: blue;">2014 Update</span>: Sheep milk feta from<i> <a href="http://ww.boladero.cl/?page_id=158">Quesos Boladero</a></i> is available at <a href="http://www.saborasur.cl/"><i>Sabores del Sur</i></a>, Pres. Battle y Ordoñez 3635, Ñuñoa, Santiago.)</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A few specialty cheese shops in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city> are said to have good variety and quality. <i>Quesería Huelmo </i>is a traditional shop located at Jaime Guzmán #3090, Providencia, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city> that has an excellent reputation. When an interviewer asked if the owner, <em><span style="color: black; font-style: normal;">Yolanda Gallardo</span></em><em><span style="color: black;">, </span></em>was interested in transforming her business into a “gourmet store,” she answered: “I don’t have anything against those stores, they are very pretty and everything, but we are a more of a neighborhood store that for all its life has worked with artisanal products.” <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another store with a good selection is El Mundo de Quesos, at Nueva de Lyon 36, Local 21, Providencia, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And for sharp cheese it is worth asking the cheese vendors in <i>La Vega </i>if they have any <i>queso a</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>ñejo, </i>"aged cheese." It may be a cheese that was too sharp to sell to their regular customers and has been waiting for a discerning buyer like you.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Photos: <a href="http://www.loogares.com/galeria/735/Queser%C3%ADa+Huelmo/3824">Loogares.com</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[1]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Gay, Claudio. 1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo 1. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 442. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[2]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Situación del Mercado de queso en Chile. Leche y lácteos. Oficina de Estudios y Políticas Agrarias. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.odepa.gob.cl/servlet/articulos.ServletMostrarDetalle;jsessionid=F9C194B0BDF9ACF5130E0F4A2C6C3ADC?idcla=2&idcat=7&idclase=99&idn=1670&volver=1">http://www.odepa.gob.cl/servlet/articulos.ServletMostrarDetalle;jsessionid=F9C194B0BDF9ACF5130E0F4A2C6C3ADC?idcla=2&amp;idcat=7&amp;idclase=99&amp;idn=1670&amp;volver=1</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[3]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Lorca, Elisa Barría. (Nov. 17) 200. Quesos Puile: sabor y tradición campesina en San José de la Mariquina. Portal INDAP. </span>On line at <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.indap.gob.cl/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=413"><span lang="EN-US">http://www.indap.gob.cl/index2.php?option=com_content&amp;do_pdf=1&amp;id=413</span></a></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[4]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Merino, Augusto. 2008. Los quesos chilenos. Revista Vinos &amp; mas. On line at Cículo de Cronistas Gastronómicos, </span><a href="http://www.cronistas.cl/articulo134_Los_quesos.html"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.cronistas.cl/articulo134_Los_quesos.html</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[5]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Fredes, César. Queso mantecoso, los diez mejores de Chile. La Nacion.Cl. August 14, 2005. On line at </span><a href="http://www.lanacion.cl/prontus_noticias/site/artic/20050813/pags/20050813172554.html">http://www.lanacion.cl/prontus_noticias/site/artic/20050813/pags/20050813172554.html</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">The 10 top cheeses in the tasting were: 1. <span lang="ES-CL">Los Tilos. 2. Pahuilmo. 3. Puerto Octay. 4. Los Monjes. 5. Las Pircas. 6. Cuinco. 7. Los Hornos. 8. Santa Matilde. 9. Don Leo. 10. Las Águilas.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[6]</span></span></a> Bareman’s Low Fat Cottage Cheese ingredients: Cultured Fat Free Milk, Buttermilk, Nonfat Dry Milk, Cream, Salt, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Phosphoric Acid, Natural Flavoring, Guar Gum Mono and Diglycerides, Xanthan Gum, Carob Bean Gum, Titanium, Dioxide(artificial color), Maltodextrin, Cultured dextrose, Postassium Sorbate, Calcium Chloride, Enzymes. On line at <a href="http://baremandairy.com/lowfatcottagecheese.pdf">http://baremandairy.com/lowfatcottagecheese.pdf</a>. Some Chilean <i>quesillo</i> has gelatin added; avoid it.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[7]</span></span></a> Alexander, William L. 2004. <span style="border-bottom-color: windowtext; border-bottom-style: none; border-bottom-width: 1pt; border-left-color: windowtext; border-left-style: none; border-left-width: 1pt; border-right-color: windowtext; border-right-style: none; border-right-width: 1pt; border-top-color: windowtext; border-top-style: none; border-top-width: 1pt; padding-bottom: 0in; padding-left: 0in; padding-right: 0in; padding-top: 0in;">Clandestine Artisans or Integrated Producers?: Standardization of Rural Livelihood in the Norte <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Chico</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>. </span><span style="text-transform: uppercase;">CULTURE &amp; AGRICULTURE </span>26(1-2-March):38–51.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[8]</span></span></a>Pappas, Georgias, <i>et. al. </i>2006. The new global map of human brucellosis. Lancet Infect Dis 6: 91–99. On line at <a href="http://agronica.udea.edu.co/talleres/Medicina/Prof%20Nicolas%20%20Ram%C3%ADrez/reyes/The_new_global_map_of_human_brucellosis_.pdf">http://agronica.udea.edu.co/talleres/Medicina/Prof%20Nicolas%20%20Ram%C3%ADrez/reyes/The_new_global_map_of_human_brucellosis_.pdf</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[9]</span></span></a> About food poisoning. Virgina Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services. On line at <a href="http://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/foodsafety/poisoning.shtml">http://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/foodsafety/poisoning.shtml</a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[10]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Camacho, Lavinia &amp; Cecilia Sierra. 1988. Diagnostico sanitarion y technologio del proceso artisanal del queso fresco de cabra en Chile. Archivos latinoamericanos de nutricion. 38(4):935-945.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[11]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Alexander, <i>op. cit.<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[12]</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> El Mercado de los Lácteos in EE.UU. bUSiness Chile. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.businesschile.cl/imprimir.php?w=old&lan=es&id=237">http://www.businesschile.cl/imprimir.php?w=old&amp;lan=es&amp;id=237</a> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[13]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="font-weight: normal;">CNN Quesos: "En Chile hay mucha variedad y hay que experimentarla" Santiago, June 2010. </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">On line at</span> <a href="http://www.cnnchile.com/economia/2010/06/20/quesos-en-chile-hay-mucha-variedad-y-hay-que-experimentarla/"><span style="font-weight: normal;">http://www.cnnchile.com/economia/2010/06/20/quesos-en-chile-hay-mucha-variedad-y-hay-que-experimentarla/</span></a></span></h3>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[14]</span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">La picada de quesos y cecinas artesanales en pleno Providencia. Las Ultimas Noticias On line at </span><a href="http://www.lun.com/lunmobile/Pages/NewsDetailMobile.aspx?dt=2010-06-21&BodyId=0&PaginaID=6&NewsID=9784&Name=I3&PagNum=0&Return=R&SupplementId=3"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.lun.com/lunmobile/Pages/NewsDetailMobile.aspx?dt=2010-06-21&amp;BodyId=0&amp;PaginaID=6&amp;NewsID=9784&amp;Name=I3&amp;PagNum=0&amp;Return=R&amp;SupplementId=3</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Quesos/Chilean%20Cheese.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference">[15]</span></span></a> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Schmidt-Hebbel, H, I Pennacchiotti M</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Tabla de Composición Química de Alimentos Chilenos<i>, </i></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">, Facultad de Ciencias Químicas y Farmacéuticas, Universidad de Chile, Santiago, 7th ed 1985* 61 pp. </span><span style="color: black;">On line at </span><a href="http://mazinger.sisib.uchile.cl/repositorio/lb/ciencias_quimicas_y_farmaceuticas/schmidth03/parte02/tabla%20cont.1.html">http://mazinger.sisib.uchile.cl/repositorio/lb/ciencias_quimicas_y_farmaceuticas/schmidth03/parte02/tabla%20cont.1.html</a></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-57124985044616809122011-01-14T19:44:00.003-03:002012-02-05T11:30:46.381-03:00Mapuche Wheat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQC_Ax3SqEl4XyDIVOEUh4MPWW6CRQFJXqdIJEbiHqI3yFPd3TOl5F2nc9ZdLd0GCWwGZvPmAbGlNOWHzxtkbGZiBhG5FxyYZopvngs2_IWK87KmnhvYPrmzzs_of2A6DCxvaSXoYnm5O/s1600/New+Picture+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQC_Ax3SqEl4XyDIVOEUh4MPWW6CRQFJXqdIJEbiHqI3yFPd3TOl5F2nc9ZdLd0GCWwGZvPmAbGlNOWHzxtkbGZiBhG5FxyYZopvngs2_IWK87KmnhvYPrmzzs_of2A6DCxvaSXoYnm5O/s640/New+Picture+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Mapuche women harvesting wheat; unknown photographer and date. On line at <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/corvo_1879/2614934142/">flickr</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p>As Alfred L. Crosby’s book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Columbian-Exchange-Biological-Consequences-Contributions/dp/0837172284">The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences of 1492</a></i> demonstrates, the interchange of plants, animals and diseases between the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Americas</st1:place></st1:country-region> and Afro-Eurasia changed the world. American maize, potatoes, beans, cassava and sweet potatoes, adopted as staple foods from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Ireland</st1:country-region> to <st1:country-region w:st="on">China</st1:country-region> and <st1:place w:st="on">Africa</st1:place>, led to tremendous dietary and demographic changes. But while old world food systems were transformed by native American food plants, few indigenous American cultures adopted <st1:place w:st="on">Old World</st1:place> crops as staple foods.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There are several reasons. The reduced and disheartened American populations seldom needed new food sources; within the first 100 years after contact old world diseases combined with war and slavery killed 50 to 90% of American Indians, depending on the region. But climatic differences were also important; Amerindian population centers—Mesoamerica and the <st1:place w:st="on">Andes</st1:place>--were in the tropics, areas with summer or year-round rainfall, and frequently, high altitudes. The crops the Europeans brought were domesticated mainly in the temperate zone from Southwest Asia to the <st1:place w:st="on">Mediterranean</st1:place>, with dry summers and winter rainfall. Wheat, the Europeans’ most important crop, is not well suited to tropical America, and in spite of the conquistador’s insistence that their native workers plant it, successful production was, and is, limited to temperate areas: northern Mexico and the south western United States; and Chile, Argentina and Uruguay. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In the north, Pueblo Indians adopted wheat and barley, but they never supplanted maize as staple crops<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span> In <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> things were different: the indigenous Mapuche adopted and came to depend on a large number of European crops, especially wheat, along with barley, <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/10/broad-beans-and-peas.html">broad beans, peas</a>, and <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/i-bake-bread.html">flax</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">The Mapuche homeland, stretching from the Rio Bio Bio to the <st1:placetype w:st="on">island</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Chiloe</st1:placename> in south central <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> (<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg91rtqSEii_sUzhenM5EpPavFD0YYtmDgHvjb6lmiMzsiX3Qp_7Da2ujCTdd5aicXJpYmFJf8LGDxrhR9V9sskgGfg9NJJxbXLJPHO-iQAHGYNX1ayiewnJqH0Jx7v8FWYpa_pu7IL_UvN/s1600/Araucania4.GIF">map</a>), has a temperate oceanic climate similar to <st1:place w:st="on">Western Europe</st1:place>’s. Average summer temperatures, which decease toward the south, are in the 60s and 70s, and winter lows are usually above freezing. Rainfall is concentrated in the winter months, and increases toward the south, reaching 120 inches in the higher elevations of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Chiloe</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>. Prior to the Spanish conquest, the Mapuche were a riverine people, dependant on hunting, fishing and collecting wild foods and cultivating maize, potatoes, quinoa, lima beans, chilies, and squash; all plants with tropical origins and, with the exception of potatoes and quinoa, summer crops not especially well suited to the increasingly cool and rainy climate of the south.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">When the Spanish arrived, on horseback and with steel weapons fresh from the conquest of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region>, they quickly ran roughshod over the Mapuche, defeating and decimating them in battle after battle and building fortified settlements as far south as <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Valdivia</st1:place></st1:city>. They found the country to their liking. In 1558 Jerónimo de Vivar wrote:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Wheat and barley yield very well… all the vegetables and legumes of our <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Spain</st1:place></st1:country-region> yield very well. And grape vines do very well, and fig trees. And all the other plants of our <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Spain</st1:place></st1:country-region> will yield very well, because the climate is very good.</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">But within a generation, the Mapuche obtained horses and developed military strategies that matched and frequently surpassed those of the Spanish, and by 1600 they had destroyed the Spanish settlements, taken thousands of prisoners, and driven the Spanish north of the Rio Bio Bio, which was to be the frontier between the two peoples for the next 300 years. In the process however, the Mapuche way of life changed drastically. They were forced to abandon their riverside communities and take up a highly mobile way of life based on their herds of cattle and horses and shifting agriculture based largely on wheat.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPpoLE6zYSoSfH1sztPqplKIyTAN8Gv93DD9udag0rywaeSkhrriASuUaOwUoM2QqUrv8ux0lXWLnR-vNI6rdUwP4wHebBvqJsRZh-eg179SSmkg7myxYZlHs_DxesMgMb_a4rwqDzn_O/s1600/New+Picture+%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPpoLE6zYSoSfH1sztPqplKIyTAN8Gv93DD9udag0rywaeSkhrriASuUaOwUoM2QqUrv8ux0lXWLnR-vNI6rdUwP4wHebBvqJsRZh-eg179SSmkg7myxYZlHs_DxesMgMb_a4rwqDzn_O/s400/New+Picture+%25285%2529.jpg" width="262" /></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">In his <i>History of the Ancient Mapuches of the South, </i>José Bengoa, a <span style="color: black;">Chilean anthropologist who has written extensively on Mapuche history</span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">, explains why: </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 1.0in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">The war led to an economic transformation in all aspects of indigenous society. The need for mobility encouraged herding over agriculture for subsistence, and the burning of fields, commonly done by the King’s soldiers during the summer campaigns, broke the back of indigenous agriculture. It no longer made sense to plant maize in open areas. This was one of the reasons for the early and rapid incorporation of wheat into the indigenous economy. In southern <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> wheat has a short productive cycle. It can be harvested in December, whereas maize is harvested in February or May, which left it highly vulnerable to summer attacks.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Cultivation of wheat posed no problems from the Mapuche. They already cultivated maize, quinoa and <i>madi </i>(or <i>made, </i>a small oil seed) and those who had been captives of the Spanish would have been familiar with wheat cultivation, as would the Mapuches’ own Spanish captives. While there are no records of early Mapuche cultivation methods, the Spanish planted by sowing broadcast and the Mapuche probably followed the same practice. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">In a shallow plowed and harrowed field the wheat is thrown on the fly, almost without covering it and leaving it at the mercy of the prodigious quantity of birds that Chile has and shortly thereafter to the invasion of weeds that this type of cultivation allows to grow freely… </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Through the 19<sup>th</sup> century, the Mapuche’s harvest was by hand:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">They cut the wheat with a sickle, tied the sheaves and tossed them with pitch forks into ox carts that took them to the threshing floor.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> </span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">And threshing was also done manually. Juan Amasa, a Mapuche of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Collipulli</st1:placename></st1:place> explained: <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">After the harvest they would bring together 10 or 20 Indians, men and women, young and old to thresh the wheat with their feet. The chief himself does not work, but is in charge of directing the threshing as a “corporal.” Depending on the size of the pile of wheat the Indians go around it in lines of two to four people holding hands with their bodies inclined forward in a particular threshing step, executing two food movements with each step. That is, the foot is put forward then drawn back, sliding the sole of his foot over the wheat, and then there is another step with the same foot, continuing the same sliding motion with the other foot and moving forward. To the rhythm of the threshing they sing to entertain themselves in this monotonous work</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">If the amount of wheat was greater, horses were used for the threshing, a Spanish practice </span></span>adopted by the Mapuche.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCF8JT8A1fxSLXGMwNqUrCJqLV48sd-8oHjTuH-weTEQt8iS-uuwo9G6nu3B43_ShetXw5ytDDLyd4tmjleMAGWsmzWgibe3CTlfXSuVuRm4IprfTXU1KnH9_FJY0c0x5AuiqoRnLhkw9h/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCF8JT8A1fxSLXGMwNqUrCJqLV48sd-8oHjTuH-weTEQt8iS-uuwo9G6nu3B43_ShetXw5ytDDLyd4tmjleMAGWsmzWgibe3CTlfXSuVuRm4IprfTXU1KnH9_FJY0c0x5AuiqoRnLhkw9h/s640/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> <i>Trillas </i> are now common summer festivals, as pictured below at the 2012 <i>Trilla a Yegua Suelta </i></span></span>(threshing with loose mares) in <a href="http://www.rincondelaguila.cl/?page_id=8">Aguila Sur Paine</a>.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">After the straw was brushed aside, the wheat remained on the ground. To separate the wheat from the chaff, it was winnowed—thrown into the air where the lighter chaff blows away and the wheat falls to the ground or the winnowing tray.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Mapuche wheat in a winnowing basket.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0q_G9bwAthmbzCoewdxYHRa-UFahaOJ1K9b7QcKuRP1gwvAFhvVBZdoL0IZw3tqK4sOckZZHelnfWT2F1ULSzSqvflqnyfRTs6Havg0aaT9-wfQzxLi_OD8pYTODHlicY2LyLkxCLOFty/s1600/IMG_6384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0q_G9bwAthmbzCoewdxYHRa-UFahaOJ1K9b7QcKuRP1gwvAFhvVBZdoL0IZw3tqK4sOckZZHelnfWT2F1ULSzSqvflqnyfRTs6Havg0aaT9-wfQzxLi_OD8pYTODHlicY2LyLkxCLOFty/s400/IMG_6384.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span>Once winnowed, the Mapuche prepared wheat for consumption in several ways, most derived from tways that they had traditionally processed maize: </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><b><span style="color: black;">Toasted flour: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mürke </i></span></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">(harina tostada)<b> </b></span></i><b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><span style="color: black;">Toasted flour was one of the most important Mapuche wheat products, adapted from the aboriginal toasted corn meal—an indigenous American Indian food from New England to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>. North America settlers called it “parched corn”<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn7" name="_ednref7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a>, in Mesoamerica it is known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pinole</i>, in NW Argentina it is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">ñaco</i>, and in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mürke</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">The “happy captive,” </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html">Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán</a> who was a prisoner of the Mapuche during the 1620s and who provides one of the earliest accounts of Mapuche food, mentions “toasted flour” (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">harina tostada)</i> seven times, once specifically to toasted maize flour “mixed with quinoa and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">made</i>”</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn8" name="_ednref8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> although never specifically to toasted wheat flour. (In fact, “wheat” (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">trigo</i>) is only mentioned once in the text.) </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Later travelers in the Araucanía such as</span></span> Edmund Reuel<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span>Smith<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> mention toasted flour or meal frequently—and specifically to toasted wheat flour-- referring to it as a major food:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">…toasted wheat and linseed ground together, of which I had already become fond, regarding the "ulpo" as not only a pleasant beverage, but almost as a necessity, in the absence of bread.</span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn9" name="_ednref9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><span style="color: black;">José Begona describes the preparation of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mürke, </i>as follows:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: 155.25pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">The making of toasted wheat is a usually a happy family ceremony. </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">It is a food that all apprectiate. </span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Earlier it was made in a clay <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">callana</i>, but the ones I have seen are metal. They are like a large skillet, with a long wooden handle of a meter or more. It is often hung from the ceiling with wire, to keep from burning oneself and to make toasting easier. It is put over the kitchen hearth in the center of the house [and now frequently over a wood stove]. The wheat is put into the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">callana</i> and stirred so that it does not burn. A boy usually helps his mother in this task, until the wheat is well toasted and hot. From there it is taken to the grain mill from which and perfumed smoke rises. As it comes out of the mill it is mixed with hot water to make <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">ulpo</i> or allowed to cool and added to apple <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chicha </i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 11pt;">[</span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">cider], for one of the most successful combinations of Mapuche cuisine. The guests drink the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chicha</i> stirring the toasted flour with a spoon. And wheat again becomes the focus of their conversations.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Traditional Mapuche milling stone<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"> photo: </span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://italovillarrica.blogspot.com/"><span lang="EN-US">Italo Martínez Rival</span></a></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
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</div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Modern hand grain mill. photo <a href="http://sites.google.com/site/niyaelmapuche/comida-mapu/derivados-del-trigo"><i>ñiyael mapuche</i></a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGln50xaasO9tTMi16UNo6kcY-ALiuPEuqmULcbLHfDH7PCnjZWfDFH-WE4-zhJBydPogVUboEcIyFVZwZStxEalwry4sxlT1dhcewWP66qm8R1GUAnLys1ttLuqo5VcbMrkZyeaQuZEi/s1600/New+Picture+%252816%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGln50xaasO9tTMi16UNo6kcY-ALiuPEuqmULcbLHfDH7PCnjZWfDFH-WE4-zhJBydPogVUboEcIyFVZwZStxEalwry4sxlT1dhcewWP66qm8R1GUAnLys1ttLuqo5VcbMrkZyeaQuZEi/s1600/New+Picture+%252816%2529.bmp" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGln50xaasO9tTMi16UNo6kcY-ALiuPEuqmULcbLHfDH7PCnjZWfDFH-WE4-zhJBydPogVUboEcIyFVZwZStxEalwry4sxlT1dhcewWP66qm8R1GUAnLys1ttLuqo5VcbMrkZyeaQuZEi/s1600/New+Picture+%252816%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div>Toasted wheat was, and is, eaten as <i>ulpo</i>, mixed with cold or hot water (<i>chercan)</i> or was boiled in water to make a porridge. My wife recalls having <i>ulpo</i> as a child, and of eating it sprinkled over watermelon. It continues to be popular and is available in supermarkets.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Lightly toasted wheat that is coarsely ground is <i>tukun</i>, <i>locro</i> in Chilean Spanish. It is added to soups and stews.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">Peeled wheat: <i>kako cachilla </i></span></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="color: black;">(<a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/10/mote-con-huesillos-chiles-favorite.html">mote</a> de trigo)</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Another indigenous American technique for preparing maize was transferred to wheat by the Mapuche: <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixtamalization">nixtamalization</a></i>. In this process dry maize kernels are cooked in water containing an alkali—wood ashes, lye or lime--which causes the maize to swell and the pericarp or clear skin of the kernel to come loose. The maize, now called <i>nixtamal </i>in Mexican Spanish is washed thoroughly to remove the pericarp and the alkaline taste and then is either ground to make tortillas or tamales, or cooked further to make <i>pozole </i>(<i>mote</i> in the <st1:place w:st="on">Andes</st1:place>, hominy in N. American English). <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">This process is not thought to have extended further south than <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Colombia</st1:country-region></st1:place> prior to the Spanish conquest, but it was part of the Mapuche culinary repertory by the 1620s when Pineda y Bascuñán was a Mapuche captive.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> He mentions being given <i>mote</i> eight times; corn <i>mote </i>twice and barley <i>mote</i> once. The rest were “<i>mote”</i> with no modifier. Today in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> unmodified “<i>mote”</i> means wheat mote and Chilean historian Begona believes that both toasted wheat flour and wheat <i>mote</i> were part of Mapuche diet by this time, although bread was not.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">The process of making wheat <i>mote,</i> as </span></span><span style="color: black;">Mapuche Luisa Quidel does it for sale in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city> is as follows:<span class="apple-style-span"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 10.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">After the wheat is harvested you must obtain ashes for processing the wheat from a local bakery. The ashes need to be cleaned and passed through a sieve to make good wheat<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>mote</i>. The<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>mote</i><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>must be cooked at a suitable temperature for the best results, so it is done over a wood fire. It is a slow process, but gas is too expensive. Next the water is drained off, and the mote, husks now loosened by the ashes, is peeled. It is scrubbed by hand and this is also a sacrifice; it is tiring work and there is no one to help her. The process is finished when the<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>mote<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></i>is well washed and allowed to rest until she leaves to sell it early the next morning. <a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn12" name="_ednref12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">Mote</span></i><span style="color: black;"> is eaten as a boiled grain, like rice, and in soups and stews with other products: potatoes, beans, peas. It is also the basis for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">catuto</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mültrun, </i>a bread like mixture of ground <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mote</i>, lard or oil, and salt which is formed into oblong rolls, and eaten as is, toasted on the coals, as below, or sautéed in a little grease<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn13" name="_ednref13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span></a>. (It is also made of boiled wheat that has not been peeled.)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKy83GM9XIk-EKABVUWF1Xwxrz0WEiGU0Edi-5dX5b7HkhghyphenhyphenVWRx6WAql9tkyP8mrPh-KUcsYOM3BbCztoLGtkeXeUBHU102YGAMN0vcwRsI5DxZLuhjgT-42i6Qn5EvCtThO88mUEZMT/s1600/New+Picture+%252817%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKy83GM9XIk-EKABVUWF1Xwxrz0WEiGU0Edi-5dX5b7HkhghyphenhyphenVWRx6WAql9tkyP8mrPh-KUcsYOM3BbCztoLGtkeXeUBHU102YGAMN0vcwRsI5DxZLuhjgT-42i6Qn5EvCtThO88mUEZMT/s640/New+Picture+%252817%2529.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Catutos on the coals. photo: </span><strong><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/trekaleyin/4211109636/in/pool-48600112400@N01/"><span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Pablo Azúa</span></span></a></span></strong><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">Wheat beer: <i>mudai</i> or <i>muday </i>(</span></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="color: black;">chicha de trigo</span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">)<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">In South America <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicha">chicha</a> </i>(from </span></span><i><span style="color: black;">chichab</span></i><span style="color: black;">, “maize” in an aboriginal language of Panama) usually refers to an alcoholic beverage made of corn, but it can also refer to virtually any fermented fruit cider or even unfermented maize drinks. In modern <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> it refers to lightly fermented grape wine or, in the south, to apple cider. <i>Mudai</i>, maize <i>chicha</i>, was traditionally made by cooking ground corn in water, adding masticated maize meal, and allowing the mixture to ferment. The chewed meal contains enzymes from the saliva which convert the maize starch into sugar, which yeasts then convert into alcohol. (In making beer “malting” or sprouting the grain accomplishes the same purpose.) Sometimes left over <i>muday</i> from a previous batch with well developed yeast was added to speed fermentation. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;">The Mapuche quickly adapted the same process to wheat and barley. </span>Edmund Reuel<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span>Smith<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">, who came to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> as a civilian member of the </span></span><span style="color: black;">US Naval Astronomical Expedition (1849-52), traveled through Araucanía to see and learn abut the Mapuche. He found <i>mudai </i>“a kind of fermented liquor, rather muddy but not unpleasant to the taste.” Later he saw how it was made<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span>: <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIs1mV_WDW1ProVSdtgbY9Rd6PIDMe3GCfvtZPR7mYdXvnO9-lXCzmFIxBn_ZSa6l5iSuTJsZIHjxbrYQgbaXvcT0jspp6mh83vwsD_uX1AKoKAFWMDbIGuiTRr_HifcmgW3vJKUIbz6ap/s1600/Smith+mudai.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIs1mV_WDW1ProVSdtgbY9Rd6PIDMe3GCfvtZPR7mYdXvnO9-lXCzmFIxBn_ZSa6l5iSuTJsZIHjxbrYQgbaXvcT0jspp6mh83vwsD_uX1AKoKAFWMDbIGuiTRr_HifcmgW3vJKUIbz6ap/s640/Smith+mudai.bmp" width="368" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDMz9DgyGQuO8-fJSuc8cmbtosyBGwg3kHzsud49ItEJSN9bzMdUKYHvvifOOb2MBPu6Cbf4Jdgq049atfcjJ0GfpD1-tpYYb_tNa7HbwNLdHmXoUbkpTv9XKPl1r4IZ_JM9EaYNa2nwg/s1600/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKDMz9DgyGQuO8-fJSuc8cmbtosyBGwg3kHzsud49ItEJSN9bzMdUKYHvvifOOb2MBPu6Cbf4Jdgq049atfcjJ0GfpD1-tpYYb_tNa7HbwNLdHmXoUbkpTv9XKPl1r4IZ_JM9EaYNa2nwg/s400/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Today’s <i>mudai</i> is made without mastication, and may be drunk at any stage in the fermentation process. Lightly fermented <i>mudai</i> is a refreshing, milky and slightly sour drink. When I asked why they served the “light” variety, my host said “<i>wincas </i>[non Mapuches] don’t usually like the strong kind.” The recipe below comes from the web site <i><a href="http://mapuches-urbanos.tripod.com/espanol/admalen/recetas/mudaydetrigo.htm">Mapuches Urbanos</a></i>:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEezbuNWLjbNJnQ6G53ujCtr6ggyAFGWxfbr9EHS2sPEn5Bi0DRw14dBUBDXkhpQuJ-8xCuq_-8L4Qc2aWQof-kt-3MrEc0C8C9_BTqMK9xh26erwyJQsrp4k83f6-njIQr5maWcw7l0tB/s1600/New+Picture.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEezbuNWLjbNJnQ6G53ujCtr6ggyAFGWxfbr9EHS2sPEn5Bi0DRw14dBUBDXkhpQuJ-8xCuq_-8L4Qc2aWQof-kt-3MrEc0C8C9_BTqMK9xh26erwyJQsrp4k83f6-njIQr5maWcw7l0tB/s400/New+Picture.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span>Other recipes add yeast and substantial quantities of sugar (replacing much of the wheat) to produce a more alcoholic beverage in less time.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">Bread: <i>kofke<o:p></o:p></i></span></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Bread was not an early addition to the Mapuche diet. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Pineda y Bascuñán mentions it only once, and then in the context of a Mapuche chief with a mestiza daughter and presumably a Spanish wife <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">We arrived at mid day and were received with great pleasure and regaled highly as this chief was very Spanishised <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">[</i></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">españolado]</span></i><span style="color: black;"> and ostentatious: his house had many chickens, fresh meat, bacon, sausages and maize and wheat bread, and above all, a lot of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chicha </i>of different types. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">He also mentions <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/12/chilean-empanadas.html">empanadas</a>, tortillas and “fried <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">buñuelos</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">rosquillas</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sopaipillas</i> of eggs,” Spanish pastries made of wheat flour, but these do not seem to have been common in Mapuche kitchens until the late 19<sup>th</sup> and 20<sup>th</sup> centuries when they could take their wheat to mills for grinding into a fine flour.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Since that time, however, bread has been a major factor in Mapuche life. José Begona, who has referred to the Mapuche as The Wheat People, writes:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Making bread continues to be the principal activity of the Mapuche woman. It occupies a good part of her day. There are several customs. Some women prefer to leave the dough over night, ready to make bread in the morning, others like to make use of the embers of the kitchen hearth and have the bread ready. This is the “ash bread” [<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tortilla de rescoldo</i>], cooked in the hot ashes of the hearth. Sometimes it is left overnight and the next day, on getting up, the bread is ready and still hot. Other women rise, knead and prepare the bread for breakfast.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn15" name="_ednref15" title="">[15]</a></span></span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn15" name="_ednref15" title=""></a></span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;">The other common Mapuche bread is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sopapilla</i>, fried bread. Although individual household recipes differ, the dough for the two can be the same: Flour is mixed with salt and a piece of dough from a previous day and/or baking powder, and in some households lard, and kneaded. It is allowed to rise, and if it is to be a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tortilla de riscoldo</i>, buried in the ashes of the hearth. For <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sopapillas</i> the dough is rolled out into a 4 or 5 inch circle and fired in oil, or preferably (according to some) in <a href="http://mapuches-urbanos.tripod.com/espanol/admalen.htm">horse fat</a>. (For more on Mapuche <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sopapillas </i>and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tortillas de riscoldo, </i>see </span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/03/mapuche-food-ethno-tourismethno_8690.html">Mapuche Food: Ethno Tourism/Ethno Gastronomy</a></span><span style="color: black;">.)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;">Noodles:<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> pangkutra</i></span></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></i><span style="color: black;">(<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pantrucas</i>) <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;">Humble noodles of flour, water, salt and perhaps egg and oil, cooked in a meat broth were the most commonly eaten “traditional Mapuche foods” encountered in a recent survey of Mapuche dietary habits in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Temuco</st1:city></st1:place>.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_edn16" name="_ednref16" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[16]</span></span></span></span></a> (The next most common were <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tortillas de riscoldo</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chili-in-chile-is-aji.html">merkin</a></i> and horse meat.)<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><b>Links:</b><b> </b> <a href="http://mapuches-urbanos.tripod.com/espanol/admalen.htm">Arte Culinaria Mapuche</a> contains 20+ Mapuche recipes in Spanish<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;">More posts on Mapuche food in Eating Chilean:<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/03/mapuche-food-ethno-tourismethno_8690.html">Mapuche Food: Ethno Tourism/Ethno Gastronomy</a></span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html">Feasting with the Enemy: 17th Century Mapuche food</a></span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/eating-pinones.html">Eating Piñones</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chilean-corn-choclo-chileno.html">Chilean Corn (Choclo Chileno)</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/10/broad-beans-and-peas.html">Broad Beans and Peas</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/07/eating-chilean-horse-meat.html">Eating Chilean Horse Meat</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-outline-level: 1;"><br />
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</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><br />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Vlasich, James A. 2005. Pueblo Indian Agriculture. University of New Mexico Press. P. 27 On line at </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books">http://books.google.com/books</a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Torrejón, Fernando and Marco Cisternas. 2002. Alteraciones del paisaje ecológico araucano por la asimilación Mapuche de la agroganadería hispano-mediterránea (siglos XVI y XVII) Revista Chilena de Historia Natural 75: 729-736. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0716-078X2002000400008&script=sci_abstract">http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0716-078X2002000400008&amp;script=sci_abstract</a> All translations mine unless otherwise noted.<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Bengoa, José. 2003. Historia de los Antiguos Mapuches del Sur, Ed. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Catalonia, Santiago de Chile.</span></span> p. 302 </span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> Gay, Claudio.<span lang="ES-CL"> 1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo 2. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 19. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Begona, José. 2002. Historia de un conflicto: El estado y los mapuches<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">en el siglo XX. 2nd Edition. p. 88. Santiago: Editorial Planeta Chilena S. A.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Lenz, Rodolfo. 1895-97. Estudios Araucanos. Anales de la Universidad de Chile, Vol. 97. p. 115. On line at </span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003440">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003440</a></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a> Houghton Mifflin Word Origins:parched corn. On line at <a href="http://www.answers.com/topic/parched-corn">http://www.answers.com/topic/parched-corn</a></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán, Francisco, 1608-1680. 2001. El cautiverio feliz, Tomo dos; edición crítica de Mario Ferreccio Podestá y Rai</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Tahoma;">̈</span><span lang="ES-CL">ssa Kordić Riquelme. Santiago de Chile: Seminario de Filología Hispánica, Facultad de Filosofía y Humanidades, Universidad de Chile, p. 638. </span>On line at <a href="http://books.google.cl/">http://books.google.cl</a></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> Smith, Edmund Reuel. 1855. The Araucanians; or, Notes of a Tour among the Indtia tribes of <st1:place w:st="on">Southern Chile</st1:place>. <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">New York</st1:place></st1:state>: Harper &amp; brothers. p. 269 On line at http://<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/books.google.cl">books.google.cl</a></span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> How nixtamalization arrived in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> is unknown. The most likely alternative is that the Spanish, some of whom had been in areas where the practice was common such as <st1:country-region w:st="on">Panama</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on">Mexico</st1:country-region>, introduced it to <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region> and then to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>. But if this is the case the absence of corn tortillas, the food most commonly made from <i>nixtamal</i>, in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> is difficult to explain.</span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Bengoa, José. 2008. Historia del Pueblo Mapuche (Siglos XIX y XX). 7th corrected Edition. Santiago: Lom Eds.</span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn12"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span></span></a>. <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Aguilera Vega, Eugenia.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">2007. Mote: Gusto para unos, vida para otros. </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Centro de Medios Independientes</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Santiago</span></span></st1:city><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">, on line at</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://santiago.indymedia.org/news/2007/06/70390.php"><span style="color: #400058;">http://santiago.indymedia.org/news/2007/06/70390.php</span></a> </span></span>as quoted in Eating Chilean: Mote con huesillos, <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s favorite summer sweet. October 19, 2009. On line at <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/10/mote-con-huesillos-chiles-favorite.html">http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/10/mote-con-huesillos-chiles-favorite.html</a></span></div></div><div id="edn13"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[13]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Mapuche, Gente de la Tierra. Comidas. Receta de Catutos. On line at </span><a href="http://www4.biblioredes.cl/BiblioRed/Nosotros+en+Internet/Gente+de+mi+tierra/Comidas"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www4.biblioredes.cl/BiblioRed/Nosotros+en+Internet/Gente+de+mi+tierra/Comidas</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn14"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[14]</span></span></span></a> Smith, <i>op. cit.</i> p. 302 quotation and illustration</span></div></div><div id="edn15"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[15]</span></span></span></a> Begonia 202, Chapter 7</span></div></div><div id="edn16" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Mapuche%20Wheat%20blog.doc#_ednref16" name="_edn16" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[16]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Schnettler, Berta <i>et al.</i> 2010 Diferencias Étnicas Y De Aculturación En El Consumo De Alimentos En La Región De La Araucania, Chile. </span>Rev Chil Nutr Vol. 37, Nº1, Marzo 2010</span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">On line at <a href="http://www.scielo.cl/pdf/rchnut/v37n1/art03.pdf">http://www.scielo.cl/pdf/rchnut/v37n1/art03.pdf</a>.</span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-34328624250211358452010-12-31T15:25:00.009-03:002011-10-03T08:39:20.354-03:00Chilean Empanadas<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpdfa8b8CjQVwId6OJZ9p-8nf5KyITVb4Ryams25-Y_EqFypvEoF4eu9THqMXkVlePOpI8fi0WUL2709luZVb8Mif5cEcLg_H0p4mejyp5rcOxREwb7gZSnSLKpgXBL1AqIbTYjd_M82_/s1600/New+Picture+%25283%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpdfa8b8CjQVwId6OJZ9p-8nf5KyITVb4Ryams25-Y_EqFypvEoF4eu9THqMXkVlePOpI8fi0WUL2709luZVb8Mif5cEcLg_H0p4mejyp5rcOxREwb7gZSnSLKpgXBL1AqIbTYjd_M82_/s640/New+Picture+%25283%2529.bmp" width="124" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://hccomidachilena.blogspot.com/2011/08/empanadas-chilenas.html">Para español, haz clic</a>k</span></div><br />
Roll piece of dough into a circle or rectangle, add a heaping spoon of a savory or sweet mixture, fold the dough over, seal the edges and bake in an oven or fry in oil. What is the result?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It's a:<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calzone" title="Calzone">cazone</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stromboli_(food)" title="Stromboli (food)">sromboli</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knish" title="Knish">kish</a>,</i> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamaican_patty" title="Jamaican patty">Jamaican patty</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornish_pasty" title="Cornish pasty">Cornish pasty</a>, <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sambusac" title="Sambusac">smbusac</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samosa" title="Samosa">smosa</a>,</i> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strudel" title="Strudel">srudel</a>, <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridie" title="Bridie">bidie</a>,</i> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turnover_(food)">turnover</a>, <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%B6rek" title="Börek">brek</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poga%C4%8Da" title="Pogača">pgača</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierogi" title="Pierogi">perogi</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bierock" title="Bierock">bierock</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Runza" title="Runza">runza</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calzone" title="Calzone">calzone</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzerotti" title="Panzerotti">panzerotti</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jiaozi" title="Jiaozi">jiaozi</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mandu_(dumpling)" title="Mandu (dumpling)">mandu</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gy%C5%8Dza" title="Gyōza">gyōzain</a>,</i> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curry_puff" title="Curry puff">curry puff</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momo_(food)" title="Momo (food)"><i>momo</i></a>, or maybe a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natchitoches_Meat_Pie" title="Natchitoches Meat Pie">Natchitoches meat pie</a>.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">In <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> (and most of South American) it is an <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanada</i>. <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsba15-GUVLFPeW2W7sKgRz5cX_l-v9Yt1OL0bgjtS6o4hXlsU0cZVn7-Xk0POF41bhTrSPF6ovIzonh085qu1y8PvFrxT4ZRTLDmtjgfo2umUy66IToyqJis0Q2RuQwBIV_7ycJuTljNm/s1600/IMG_4685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsba15-GUVLFPeW2W7sKgRz5cX_l-v9Yt1OL0bgjtS6o4hXlsU0cZVn7-Xk0POF41bhTrSPF6ovIzonh085qu1y8PvFrxT4ZRTLDmtjgfo2umUy66IToyqJis0Q2RuQwBIV_7ycJuTljNm/s320/IMG_4685.JPG" width="320" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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Chilean baked empanadas</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Why so many names and varieties? Practically everywhere that there was wheat--from northern Europe and north Africa to India and China and the whole world by 1700 or so--it was ground and mixed with water to make dough. And some of that dough was filled with a mixture of meat, fish, cheese, vegetables<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"> </span>or fruit and fried or baked. The result was tasty, portable and handy to eat out of hand.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Where and when were these filled pastries first made? No one knows but, central <st1:place w:st="on">Asia</st1:place> sometime before the 9<sup>th</sup> century AD seems like a good bet. </div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="apple-style-span">Arab cookery books of the 10th and 13th Centuries refer to the pastries as</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>sanbusak</i><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="apple-style-span">(the pronunciation still current in Egypt, Syria, &amp; Lebanon),</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>sanbusaq</i><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="apple-style-span">or</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>sanbusaj</i><span class="apple-style-span">, all reflecting the early medieval form of the Persian word: sanbosag. Claudia Roden (1968) quotes a poem by Ishaq ibn Ibrahim-al-Mausili (9th Century) praising the</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>sanbusaj</i></span><span class="apple-style-span">.</span> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And from there they surely came to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region></st1:place> with the conquering Arabs, sometime after 711 AD. Remarkably, they left us a recipe. It is from an anonymous Andalusian cookbook, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Book of Cooking in <st1:place w:st="on">Maghreb</st1:place> and Andalus in the era of Almohads</i>, of the13<sup>th</sup> century. </div><blockquote><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">A Pie [<i>Mukhabbazah</i>] of Lamb</span></div></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Make meatballs of lamb with all the spices and flavorings, beat them with egg white, and put into the pot a spoonful of oil, cilantro juice, a spoonful of onion juice and half a spoonful of <i>murri</i> [use soy sauce], and pepper, cinnamon, Chinese cinnamon [cassia], a handful of pine nuts, coriander, a little caraway and a spoonful of water. Cook until the meatballs stiffen, and cook the sauce and boil two eggs in it, then cover [the contents of the pot with eggs and breadcrumbs] and take it out to the hearthstone [a lower heat] until [the egg layer] wrinkles. Knead a dough with white flour, water and oil. Prepare a crust dough of this [line a pan], and put in the meatballs and the boiled eggs, after splitting, and put all the filling inside this. Then cover it with a sheet of dough made in the same manner. Fasten it closed and send it to the oven until it is done. Then present it, God willing</span>. <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></blockquote><div style="margin-left: .5in;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><br />
</span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal">By the 12<sup>th</sup> century, the pastries were in Christian Spain and were sufficient renowned that they were shown in statues in the cathedral of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago de Compostela</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Galicia</st1:country-region></st1:place>.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Left:</div><div class="MsoNormal">“Nobles enjoying themselves in a banquet with savory empanadas,” </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Right: </div><div class="MsoNormal"> “penitent sinners in hell… eternally condemned to the tormenting penalty of not being able to eat an empanada because of a leather halter fastened around their necks so they cannot swallow.” <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2NkHPdwilEfoaNmG1n01vwvYeQuH8ULCI6BvNflGK16qdIM3UpWB9Zsz3pDs6mZPYSD_mzqkeruDaptWcFSkyro2woKIgiEF1z1jjQt-rVxSfbpchN8Xn3v2eGbPrCQjPkjJRsRknBJO/s1600/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin2NkHPdwilEfoaNmG1n01vwvYeQuH8ULCI6BvNflGK16qdIM3UpWB9Zsz3pDs6mZPYSD_mzqkeruDaptWcFSkyro2woKIgiEF1z1jjQt-rVxSfbpchN8Xn3v2eGbPrCQjPkjJRsRknBJO/s400/New+Picture+%252810%2529.bmp" width="265" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">The Spanish added pork, as in this Pigeon Empanada from the 17th century </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Art of Cooking, Pastry, Cakes and Preserves </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">by </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Francisco Martínez Montiño (1611), head of the kitchens of Spanish King Philip II (1527-1598):</span></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfrZPdKopH2M0kqW4ZQkQod_GjIcjUwxembxezilqp_f93Jlo8nw7buI-CcKllqWjTE8v5NTEC7yJjVJNBEbFzJtj3Z9hRNLrN-qodC3RuK5z7dsXVucYB9Kl8E0Rmq5LKoJpR5NZAo4x/s1600/New+Picture.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfrZPdKopH2M0kqW4ZQkQod_GjIcjUwxembxezilqp_f93Jlo8nw7buI-CcKllqWjTE8v5NTEC7yJjVJNBEbFzJtj3Z9hRNLrN-qodC3RuK5z7dsXVucYB9Kl8E0Rmq5LKoJpR5NZAo4x/s1600/New+Picture.png" /></a></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Take four tender young pigeons from the nest and after cleaning them take some ham cut into very thin (slices?) and soak them until the salt has been removed and then squeeze out the water and season the pigeons with spices and salt and (take?) a leaf of English sweet dough for empanadas and place the pigeons on it and put the ham slices all around and close the empanada and serve hot</span>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></blockquote><div style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Today the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanada gallega</i> (from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Galicia</st1:country-region>) is the classic Spanish empanada and its 16<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century ancestors (without tomatoes. peppers or paprika) inspired for the empanadas of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> and other Latin American countries. In its basic form it is a large pie (small ones are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanadillas</i>) with a crust of flour, yeast and oil or lard; a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sofrito</i> or seasoning mixture of sautéed onion, green pepper, tomato, garlic and paprika (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pimenton dulce)</i>; and a filling of pork, fish, shellfish or vegetables cooked with the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sofrito</i>. A circle or rectangle of dough is rolled out, the filling is spread on it leaving an ample border, and a top crust is applied and sealed by pressing. A hole is made in the center to let the steam escape. Leftover dough is applied to make a design, it is painted with beaten egg, and the empanada is baked for 30 to 45 minutes in a moderate oven.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">THE source for recipes is <span class="apple-style-span">“<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://empanadagallega.fiestras.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=R&c=Page&cid=1257209522972&pubid=979757027793">La Empanada Gallega</a></i>: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Everything about empanadas and Galician gastronomy</i>” Google provides a reasonable translation <a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=es&tl=en&u=http://empanadagallega.fiestras.com/servlet/ContentServer%3Fpagename%3DR%26c%3DPage%26cid%3D1257209522972%26pub">here</a>, and there’s an authentic Galician recipe in English<a href="http://www.grouprecipes.com/4198/empanada-gallega-de-carne.html"> here</a>.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL73JUudfkR_rtQqQRbVrfkQ1-thLMNwS-pgBWfH0HW1qVOEHD5N3zrFnYk_ZY8rWFkMXxSwNoqSXdAn0UhttAkzPhxifFXMFCeOQm_iCcZodwdcTMjXKeBitS4DmoM2XRjQaP_t6fe__D/s1600/Empanada+gallega.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="437" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL73JUudfkR_rtQqQRbVrfkQ1-thLMNwS-pgBWfH0HW1qVOEHD5N3zrFnYk_ZY8rWFkMXxSwNoqSXdAn0UhttAkzPhxifFXMFCeOQm_iCcZodwdcTMjXKeBitS4DmoM2XRjQaP_t6fe__D/s640/Empanada+gallega.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p> </o:p>Empanada Gallega photo: <a href="http://www.ipernity.com/doc/trebolazul/1065348/">Maria Gonzáles</a> 2007</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">In her novel <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Ines-My-Soul-Isabel-Allende/dp/B001G7RD3I/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1292966028&sr=1-5">Ines of My Soul</a> </i>Isabel Allende tells us that empanadas arrived in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> in 1541 with conquistador Pedro de Valdivia and his companion Inés Suárez, and she may be right. By the 1620s they appear to have been completely incorporated into <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s Creole cuisine by both Spanish and Indians: Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán ("<a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html">the happy captive</a>") says that he was given empanadas by his Mapuche captors in the 1620s.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The classic Chilean empanada, with a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pino </i>(“filing”, from the Mapuche <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pinu,</i> for pieces of cooked meat) of meat, onion, raisins, hard boiled egg and chili seems to have taken form during the colonial period and became an “indispensable national dish,"<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span> but not one that got mentioned in writing very often. Even <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s foreign visitors, usually a good source for information about food, seem not to have noticed them. Only Maria Henrietta de la Cherois, in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Over the Andes from the Argentine to Chile and Peru </i>seems to have found them worthy of mention. She describes them as “<span style="color: black;">squares of thick paste filled with meat, gravy, and a suspicion of onion--Excellent!”<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_edn7" name="_ednref7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 45.8pt 91.6pt 137.4pt 183.2pt 229.0pt 274.8pt 320.6pt 366.4pt 412.2pt 458.0pt 503.8pt 549.6pt 595.4pt 641.2pt 687.0pt 732.8pt;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 45.8pt 91.6pt 137.4pt 183.2pt 229.0pt 274.8pt 320.6pt 366.4pt 412.2pt 458.0pt 503.8pt 549.6pt 595.4pt 641.2pt 687.0pt 732.8pt;"><span style="color: black;">The earliest Chilean empanada recipes I have found come from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The New Kitchen Manual</i> of 1882:<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_edn8" name="_ednref8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a> </span>The recommended dough recipe reflects 19<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s abundance of, and taste for, beef fat. As <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s best know culinary historian <span class="apple-style-span">Eugenio Pereira Salas explains</span> “what butter was for the French, and olive oil was for the Italians and Spanish, beef fat was for the Chileans.”<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_edn9" name="_ednref9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a> <o:p></o:p></span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Take four pounds of flour, two pounds of beef lard and a pound of beef fat [grasa de vaca], melt the lard and fat and beat until fluffy before mixing with the flour. Add six egg yokes and enough very hot water, knead for a long time and roll out many times.</span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 45.8pt 91.6pt 137.4pt 183.2pt 229.0pt 274.8pt 320.6pt 366.4pt 412.2pt 458.0pt 503.8pt 549.6pt 595.4pt 641.2pt 687.0pt 732.8pt;"><span style="color: black;">Aside from the dough, the standard baked empanadas were similar to today’s, if a little plainer:</span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Fry minced meat, free from nerves, with a little chopped onion, fried in <span style="color: black;">color</span> [grease mixed with chili] and when the meat is done add a tablespoon of flour, mix well, and add a little water so that there will be enough juice, and leave to cool. Make a dough with a little flour, burned fat, two eggs and brine; make the empanadas with a little of the <i>pino</i> inside, and bake in a good hot oven.</span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 45.8pt 91.6pt 137.4pt 183.2pt 229.0pt 274.8pt 320.6pt 366.4pt 412.2pt 458.0pt 503.8pt 549.6pt 595.4pt 641.2pt 687.0pt 732.8pt;"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="color: black;">But there were also </span>empanadas “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">a la chilena</i>” which were quite fancy: </div><blockquote>Mix a little salt, a little cinnamon, six egg yokes and an egg white in a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, a quarter of grease and a half cup of sweet wine. Form a dough from all this and if it is still dry add a little milk and knead it a little. Cut the raw meat into small pieces and fry with a little color. When the meat is cooked add onions, also fried in color, take it off the fire and add a tablespoon of raw flour; mix and season with salt, whole peppercorns, and a little sugar. Make the empanadas and decorate the <i>pino</i> with raisins, olives, slices of egg, pieces of firm cooked chicken and onion, also cooked in chicken broth. Put in the oven and when it is time to send them to the table, pour on a thick syrup mixed with ground almonds and sweetened sour cherries.</blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Today’s Chilean empanadas</span></i><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCnF2_IiOf92hco6l-8OVhGth_wMN0A01V6SlBKXLVwLTE6j_5LO1ypB7Jx6FhjBCz2Y2q53zchg_cuA20iiA9wfh89E64L6T5daXwltmgrpL0pJGV6qa4IL87zg95lySvHTZepujsus12/s1600/IMG_2257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCnF2_IiOf92hco6l-8OVhGth_wMN0A01V6SlBKXLVwLTE6j_5LO1ypB7Jx6FhjBCz2Y2q53zchg_cuA20iiA9wfh89E64L6T5daXwltmgrpL0pJGV6qa4IL87zg95lySvHTZepujsus12/s640/IMG_2257.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Empanadas a an Independence Day celebration</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Baked empanadas filled with beef <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pino </i>are the most Chilean of foods; there is an <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanadaria</i> in every neighborhood, every food store from up-scale supermarkets to barrio groceries sells them, and they are part of every festival and public celebration. And on Chilean Independence Day, September 18, when everyone eats empanadas, even the 33 trapped Chilean miners had specially made empanadas designed to survive the arduous trip down 700 meters through a narrow bore hole.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The recipe below is a very standard one, from a classic Chilean cookbook,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> La Gran Cocina Chilena <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></b></span></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote style="text-align: center;"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Baked Chilean Empanadas</b></span></span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p> </o:p></span>500 gm. flour (7 cups) </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 ½ cups warm milk</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">125 gm. lard melted (5/8 cups)</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 teaspoon baking powder</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">salt</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Make a mound of flour, salt and baking powder. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the warm melted lard, then the milk a little at a time mixing to form a soft dough. Knead the dough until smooth, cut into 8 pieces and roll each into a circle.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma;"> </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i>Pino</i> (Filling)</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 onions, chopped fine</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">½ lb / 250 gm ground beef</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 hard boiled eggs</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">16 olives</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">24 raisins</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 clove garlic, minced</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt, pepper, parsley, oil</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sauté the onions ground beef, garlic, chopped parsley and salt and pepper until well cooked. Allow to cool. P</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">lace a mound of pino on each circle of dough, add a piece of egg, 2 olives, and 3 raisins. Fold the dough over and seal with a little egg white. Bake until well browned.</span></blockquote><blockquote style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Tahoma;">************</span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;">Naturally there are other recipes, some a bit more elegant. The one below is from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://issuu.com/sibduoc/docs/sazon-gusto_version_digital">La Sazón y el Gusto: Un menu en tres cidudaes de Chile<span style="font-style: normal;"> </span></a></i> (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Seasoning and Taste: Menus from three Chilean cities)</i> as part of a menu representing <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOo4HpEtyekOxtR8RT_1p7v7px_5wNYg9dRf_TTwP9HbxZw37DddzaldFTct7gnxMpcvjhRJBe6443IvNLtiaClo1va9Hx9mfQUfj_AexqprGyKzY22GhZ5wE2UlDW7PBs6tueIcgHEhT/s1600/Empanadas+de+pino.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOo4HpEtyekOxtR8RT_1p7v7px_5wNYg9dRf_TTwP9HbxZw37DddzaldFTct7gnxMpcvjhRJBe6443IvNLtiaClo1va9Hx9mfQUfj_AexqprGyKzY22GhZ5wE2UlDW7PBs6tueIcgHEhT/s640/Empanadas+de+pino.bmp" width="460" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">While the classic <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pino</i> of beef and onions is the most popular, many other filings abound, mostly in specialty empanada bakeries: cheese, mushroom and cheese, olive and cheese, ham and cheese, corn and cheese, bell pepper and cheese, Roquefort, chicken and paprika, chicken and mushroom, spinach, artichoke, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Napolitana</i> (ricotta, parmesan cheese, tomato, sausage), Salmon, shrimp, shellfish, etc.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i>Fried Empanadas</i><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><b><i><a href="http://comidachile.blogspot.com/2010/06/empanadas-fritas-de-mariscos.html">Fried shellfish empanadas</a></i></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wG8PfaOk-Y_hEy9B1DBrCVViuwLs9OnaqjS9_86MZQNf4jR9oxBHBThNF4EDiw-eOJKuTqDgXTQG98VpRg6IVXXrzAz9UZ5UANIHFCbAS0V24Z5oObjN52eLFBd4MtoRb9ZoDn9Aocgp/s1600/Comidachile+empanadas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wG8PfaOk-Y_hEy9B1DBrCVViuwLs9OnaqjS9_86MZQNf4jR9oxBHBThNF4EDiw-eOJKuTqDgXTQG98VpRg6IVXXrzAz9UZ5UANIHFCbAS0V24Z5oObjN52eLFBd4MtoRb9ZoDn9Aocgp/s400/Comidachile+empanadas.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Fried empanadas, usually about half the size of baked, are very popular as a first course, especially in seafood restaurants where they are filled with a variety of shell fish, or with cheese; and of course with home cooks filled with cheese, pino, shellfish, or occasionally with fruit.<br />
<br />
<br />
The dough, like that of baked empanadas, can be very rich with lard, <a href="http://www.serecomienda.cl/go/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=258:empanadas-de-queso-fritas&catid=58:recetas-chilenas&Itemid=214">up to a cup or more</a> for 2 cups of flour, or relatively austere with only a tablespoon for the same amount of flour—in either case frying makes them <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">para chupar los dedos,--</i> finger lickin’ good.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Here’s a recipe for <a href="http://www.lugaresenchile.com/2010/06/empanadas-de-queso-fritas/"><b>Fried Cheese Empanadas</b></a> with dough on the lighter side:<br />
<blockquote>3 cups sifted flour</blockquote><blockquote>1 ½ tablespoons melted lard (60 grams)</blockquote><blockquote>1 cup of hot milk or water</blockquote><blockquote>1 teaspoon of baking powder</blockquote><blockquote>1 teaspoon of salt</blockquote><blockquote>Sliced cheese (1/3 inch / 1 cm thick)</blockquote></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></o:p>Mound the flour and baking powder and make a well in the center. Add the melted lard and add the hot milk or water, stirring with a spoon. When cool enough to handle, knead until smooth, soft, and elastic and wrap in a kitchen towel so that it remains warm.</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><o:p><span class="Apple-style-span"> </span></o:p><span class="Apple-style-span">Roll or cut out circles (to any size you wish, usually between 4 and 8 inches/10-20 cm top with a slice of cheese (queso chanco </span><span class="Apple-style-span">if available), fold over and seal. Fry in hot oil until golden.</span></span></blockquote><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><em><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;">And for shellfish empanadas, the ones in the photo above, there is an excellent illustrated recipe at </span></em><em><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://comidachile.blogspot.com/2010/06/empanadas-fritas-de-mariscos.html"><span style="font-style: normal;">Comida Chile</span><span style="font-style: normal;">na</span></a></span></em><em><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;">. Here’s a translation:</span></em><em><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;"><o:p> </o:p></span></em></div><blockquote style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Fried Shellfish Empanadas</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 kg <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/eating-chilean-mussels.html">mussels</a> in their shells (or ½ lb / 250 gm frozen or canned shellfish, mussels, clams, <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/06/machas-la-parmesana.html">machas</a>, etc.)</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 lb / 500 gm. minced onions</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Dough for 12, 4-5 inch / 10-12 cm empanadas</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Steam the mussels in a little water and white wine until they open, about 2 minutes. When cool, remove from shells and simmer with the onions and a little of the reserved steaming liquid until the onions are soft. Fill each circle of dough with filling, leaving an ample border. Paint the border with water or egg white, and seal. Fry in abundant hot oil until golden. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. The should be nice and juicy inside.</span></blockquote><blockquote></blockquote><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> The Samosa Connection. On line at <a href="http://www.samosa-connection.com/origin.htm">http://www.samosa-connection.com/origin.htm</a>. The book referred to is <a href="http://www.amazon.com/book-Middle-Eastern-food/dp/0171470753/ref=tmm_hrd_title_2">A book of Middle Eastern food</a>. </span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook: The Book of Cooking in <st1:place w:st="on">Maghreb</st1:place> and Andalus in the era of Almohads, by an unknown author. Charles Perry,Translator. On line at <a href="http://italophiles.com/andalusian_cookbook.pdf">http://italophiles.com/andalusian_cookbook.pdf</a></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Historia de la empanada. </span>La Empanada Gallega. Text and photos on line at <a href="http://empanadagallega.fiestras.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=R&pubid=979757027793&c=Page&cid=1257209522972">http://empanadagallega.fiestras.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=R&amp;pubid=979757027793&amp;c=Page&amp;cid=1257209522972</a> All translations mine unless otherwise noted.</span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> Martínez Montiño, </span><span lang="ES-CL"> </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Francisco. 1611. Arte de cozina, pasteleria, vizcocheria y conserueria. </span><span style="color: black;">On line at </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=tVMQ2Dsmv-8C&printsec=frontcover&dq=Arte+de+cozina,+pasteleria,+vizcocheria+y+conserueria&source=bl&ots=kGGUd5fgaV&sig=GQ0t7jfXNveXQbZSj8lkYDP4vAA&hl=en&ei=KxASTeHmD4OglAe-4tC6BQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false">http://books.google.com/books?id=tVMQ2Dsmv-8C&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;dq=Arte+de+cozina,+pasteleria,+vizcocheria+y+conserueria&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=kGGUd5fgaV&amp;sig=GQ0t7jfXNveXQbZSj8lkYDP4vAA&amp;hl=en&amp;ei=KxASTeHmD4OglAe-4tC6BQ&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=book_result&amp;ct=result&amp;resnum=1&amp;ved=0CBQQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false</a></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="itemautor" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">[5]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"> </span></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán, Francisco. 1999. <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: #333333;"> </span></span>El cautiverio feliz<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">Alicante : Biblioteca Virtual Miguel de Cervantes. Edición digital basada en la edición de Santiago de Chile, Zig-Zag, 1948.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"> </span></span>On line at<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial;"> </span></span> <a href="http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/obra-visor/el-cautiverio-feliz--0/html/"><span style="font-family: Arial;">http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/obra-visor/el-cautiverio-feliz--0/html/</span></a> </span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a> <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Pereira</span></span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> Salas, Eugenio. 1977. Apuntes para la historia de la cocina chilena. </span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Santiago</span></span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">: Universitaria. p. 60. On line at </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0006512"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #11593c; text-decoration: none;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0006512</span></span></a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> De la Cherois-Crommelin, Maria Henrietta.</span></span> 1896. Over the Andes: From the Argentine to <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Peru</st1:place></st1:country-region>. p. 230 on line at <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/overandesfromar00cromgoog">http://www.archive.org/details/overandesfromar00cromgoog</a></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL">Anonymous. 1882. Nuevo manual de cocina: conteniendo 377 recetas de guisos escojidos de las cocinas francesas, española, chilena, inglesa e italiana: arregladas para el uso de las familias del país. Valparaíso : Libr. del Mercurio de Orestes L. Tornero. </span>Pp. 94-5 On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0003181</a>.</span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Pereira Salas, Eugenio. <i>Op.Cit. </i>p 20</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Empanadas.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Alfaro, Mónica T. 2000. La Gran Cocina Chilena, 8th Edition. Santiago: Ediciones Occidente S.A. p. 416<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-79839975775091874692010-12-15T15:34:00.010-03:002011-09-26T08:16:25.133-03:00Eating Chilean Christmas<div class="MsoNormal">Christmas in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>--<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pascua de Navidad,</i> or simply <i>Pascua</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></b></span></span>—falls in early summer, four days after the summer solstice, the longest day of the year. Today it is celebrated with the familiar German-British-American-Global Christmas complex of decorations, gifts, trees, carols, Santa Claus (here <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Viejito Pascuero</i>, Little Old Man Christmas), decorated cookies and even roast turkey.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">But it was not always so…..<o:p></o:p></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">Christmas Eve on La Cañada [<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>, circa 1870]</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDviqFalhphPpZwRq9-n2CDCDwPRxa8m8u7aUu2zvqqBwhbemkHHkyTVm9Qyjo0bSqr7VGOBHAQ_VawcEs5cyPibDzgwQvtq8eLLvuv6-IzD61p62_yPfiopUGZrTBce7dc6wOJrirzy6/s1600/New+Picture+%25282%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDviqFalhphPpZwRq9-n2CDCDwPRxa8m8u7aUu2zvqqBwhbemkHHkyTVm9Qyjo0bSqr7VGOBHAQ_VawcEs5cyPibDzgwQvtq8eLLvuv6-IzD61p62_yPfiopUGZrTBce7dc6wOJrirzy6/s640/New+Picture+%25282%2529.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">It is eight o’clock in the evening. La Cañada [today’s <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alameda</st1:place></st1:city>] has the happy appearance of an immense fair. For a distance of at least three miles, from the upper Convent of Carmen on the east to the train station on the west seethes a compact audience of all social classes and ranks. In all the cross streets of this great avenue extends a belt of stalls, booths, food stands, and shelters that would make the curious think the whole population had fled their houses because of some earthquake or similar calamity and had chosen that location for their stores. In each booth a flag flutters in the wind; the national tricolor is always obligatory to protect the harp and the guitar whose harmonies resonate from all quarters. Foods of all types, liquors, fruits, little empanadas, sweets, flowers, bunches of sweet basil, little ceramics made by the nuns, <i>horchata</i> with <i>maliciia</i> [a sweet drink with brandy], games, and all kinds of appetizing inventions for the Chileans’ gluttonous bulletproof stomachs, make up the commercial vocabulary of Christmas Eve.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .5in; margin-top: 0in;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_edn2" name="_ednref2" style="mso-endnote-id: edn2;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"></span></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Valparaiso</st1:place></st1:city> had a similar celebration, but US Navy Leutenant J.M. Gilliss, there in 1850 as part of a US Naval Astronomical Expedition, was evidently a bit disappointed:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02CmNyVCiKuaKuFjTEKnwRbk24I5CtXuNPHfR8eyQ2dZkkU_T9LSIbP3bQo4yLz1qdo9vOIGbgKd-sNea5mEkYm6VjBqGAq62VaBoBUSGkxZCMWfTD8Mf5RKu4-YKg3mHJVJOKQ9BtfWL/s1600/25th.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02CmNyVCiKuaKuFjTEKnwRbk24I5CtXuNPHfR8eyQ2dZkkU_T9LSIbP3bQo4yLz1qdo9vOIGbgKd-sNea5mEkYm6VjBqGAq62VaBoBUSGkxZCMWfTD8Mf5RKu4-YKg3mHJVJOKQ9BtfWL/s640/25th.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> What he found was similar to the fair in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city>, some of it a bit unrefined for his Anglo Saxon sensibilities:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiic99SRR2hESf8e3BVt9-q_gWdpCZauWWGB02YqdOdBiweEl0teBNb9F-kfgutGgT00-lOEVfYPQlFm_Jmad3wK8zgv7yMDpNn32QXgB7TJnGkw9-KIeS8mvQaGZt_foq4salgNfCy_gbZ/s1600/24th.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiic99SRR2hESf8e3BVt9-q_gWdpCZauWWGB02YqdOdBiweEl0teBNb9F-kfgutGgT00-lOEVfYPQlFm_Jmad3wK8zgv7yMDpNn32QXgB7TJnGkw9-KIeS8mvQaGZt_foq4salgNfCy_gbZ/s640/24th.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Special Christmas food and drinks? None are mentioned. Chilean historian <span style="color: black;">Daniel Palma’s article on <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city> food and drink at the end of the 19<sup>th</sup> century, says: “The [Christmas] kitchen addresses itself to the typical dishes such as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanadas</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">arrolladas </i>and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">casuelas </i>[turnovers, pork rolls, and boiled dinners]<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">,</i> all accompanied by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chicha </i></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 11pt;">[young wine or cider]</span><span style="color: black;"> especially prepared for the occasion.” Among the wealthy, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Noche Buena</i> picnic dinners at the fair were “succulent and primitive banquets, alternating between cold cuts of turkey and roast lambs, with sparkling <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chicha</i>, cups of sweet hot punch, legendary milk punch, and water punch with ices.”<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_edn3" name="_ednref3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">20<sup>th</sup> Century <o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;">If </span>Lieutenant Gilliss was disappointed by 19<sup>th</sup> century Chilean Christmas, he would have been happier a few years later, as the familiar Global Christmas complex was beginning to arrive. German immigration in the second half of the 19<sup>th</sup> century brought Christmas trees, Christmas cakes and decorations, if only to the immigrant communities and Santa seems to have arrived early in the new century.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7cqTcMVk3aIZHhgy0eucx3C1B64LjOOaQ59uoirUTr06UORg5wgBZGhMR7Eu0jNtQiHvyhXCLRReqxv2mt_R8h-EGNEiWW_l0GS8ScsgiuXA_eaVrXABVdjiA25ojCqFaKcPDvI3n-Fd/s1600/New+Picture+%252811%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7cqTcMVk3aIZHhgy0eucx3C1B64LjOOaQ59uoirUTr06UORg5wgBZGhMR7Eu0jNtQiHvyhXCLRReqxv2mt_R8h-EGNEiWW_l0GS8ScsgiuXA_eaVrXABVdjiA25ojCqFaKcPDvI3n-Fd/s320/New+Picture+%252811%2529.bmp" width="258" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="description">Cris Salazar’s blog on <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city>’s history, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://urbatorium.blogspot.com/2008/12/revelaciones-de-una-vieja-fotografa-cmo.html">Urbatorium</a></i>, chronicles Santa’s </span>history and arrival in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Referring to the picture at left, in which Santa is carrying what appears to be a Christmas tree, Chris writes:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">A <span class="apple-style-span"><i>"Viejo Pascuero"</i> in the publicity of the Bazar Alemán Krass [downtown <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>’s premier toy store], published in the capital press in 1910. It is one of the oldest St. Nicolases in Chilean documents and shows that this persona was already in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>, probably due to German influence.”</span> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Christmas tree, “el pino” also appears in the early 20<sup>th</sup> century. This illustration is from a 1931 Chilean cookbook,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Hermanita Hormiga</i> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4] </span></span></span></span>(Little Sister Ant).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyjtboW3cf5l-yudEu9Ve0ZMZxlPPdRoZgNz2KT8ogQ32FyaGE-E4-946rLrvpny_m5wxq1EDIfqgKZDLX5bDYd95jDzENXL-LPefpO1K4jxXMkJiHDC-IWHhdUC7xlHlodnicpljoa4B5/s1600/IMG_6056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyjtboW3cf5l-yudEu9Ve0ZMZxlPPdRoZgNz2KT8ogQ32FyaGE-E4-946rLrvpny_m5wxq1EDIfqgKZDLX5bDYd95jDzENXL-LPefpO1K4jxXMkJiHDC-IWHhdUC7xlHlodnicpljoa4B5/s320/IMG_6056.JPG" width="240" /></a><o:p></o:p><br />
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But “El pino” didn’t arrive at my wife’s home until 1962, remembered because it was also the year of the family’s first TV, bought especially for the 1962 World Cup, hosted by <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Today it is a tradition, and comes out every year in early December. It is plastic of course; natural Christmas trees aren’t part of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city>’s 85° F. holiday season.<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">German immigration also seems to have brought <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pan de Pascua</i>, holiday fruit cake, evidently descended from the German <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christ" title="Christ">Christstollen</a></i>. It is lighter than the traditional English or American fruit cake and is THE essential food for holiday celebrations. It is of course, available in supermarkets and bakeries, and those seem to be the source for most families. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">To assist Santiagueños in making this purchase, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Mercurio</i></st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s major newspaper, held a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pan de Pascua </i>tasting in 2008. What was the standard?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">What is a good Pan de Pascua? Easy. It has a dark dough, dense and humid; adorned with nuts (walnuts and almonds, hopefully toasted), dry fruit (raisins, hopefully soaked), and candied fruit (hopefully natural) of good quality and quantity; seasoned with sweet spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, anise, ginger, vanilla, honey) and liquor (rum or cognac)</span>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixoGdiPRZ7qz7t_ib72TX0BShqlVZHTSHiDstu5Y7YuCB57eJmVnPjpY7kzbCxOU8vL18GMkuJIABhLnrbtEbXv-SyS4c7u0Y7UlbFJXUBscCxgeLHPv7ZhqRwk2cqDDyb6322wMEKuQQI/s1600/New+Picture+%252812%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixoGdiPRZ7qz7t_ib72TX0BShqlVZHTSHiDstu5Y7YuCB57eJmVnPjpY7kzbCxOU8vL18GMkuJIABhLnrbtEbXv-SyS4c7u0Y7UlbFJXUBscCxgeLHPv7ZhqRwk2cqDDyb6322wMEKuQQI/s320/New+Picture+%252812%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a><o:p> </o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><div class="MsoNormal">The winner? Supermarket Lider’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ideal</i> brand, at about $5 US for 2 lb. loaf. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">But if you’d like to make you own, here is a <a href="http://southamericanfood.about.com/od/holidayrecipes/r/pandepascua.htm">recipe in English</a>. And to meet <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Mercurio’s</i> ideal, soak the raisins in rum first and add ginger. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span lang="ES-CL">Photo: </span><a href="http://noticias.800.cl/archives/11277" title="Saber más de Los mejores panes de pascua de Santiago"><span lang="ES-CL">Los mejores panes de pascua de Santiago</span></a></span><b><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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To accompany your <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pan de Pascua, </i>the essential beverage is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cola de Mono</i>, literally “monkey’s tail,” a descendant of the 19<sup>th</sup> century milk punch. Various stories explain the drink’s origins and name, but the most cogent is that:</div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In a party held by an elderly society lady attended by ex-President Pedro Mott, it began to rain torrentially. Then when Don Pedro decided to retire he asked for the return of his Colt pistol, which he had given one of his friends to hold. As none of them wanted the president to be exposed to such a ferocious downpour, they hid his pistol. The party continued at a fast pace, until the wines and liquors were gone, but someone discovered an enormous pitcher of coffee with milk and improvised. As he tried to give this flavorful find a bit of a mischievous touch, he added aguardiente [brandy] and sugar, improvising a drink that was appreciated by all. Such a great discovery had to be baptized, and what better than to call it the “Colt of Montt,” from which the now known “Cola de Mono” was easily derived.</span> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span> </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cola de mono</i> is now available pre-made, but who knows how it tastes? This is my wife’s recipe:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">1. Bring three liters of milk (skim or whole as you wish) to a boil, being careful that it does not burn on the bottom, and cool in the refrigerator.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">2. Then mix 1 cup water with 1½ cups sugar, cloves, cinnamon sticks, zest from two lemons, and a teaspoon of vanilla extract. Bring to a boil and then simmer briefly so that all the sugar is dissolved and the spices have infused the liquid. Then cool and strain.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">3. Mix the cold milk and cold sugar mixture, add Nescafé instant coffee (<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s coffee of choice) to taste and 1½ lt. of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/01/chilean-pisco-aguardiente-with-flavor.html">aguardiente</a></i>. Serve well chilled. The final product should look like this:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5dqu730PcJuyJsQNqt8RTNdamnUo9V-EgMJuolGAoTYcYgipDsAiYyY5tzrrC-F8-0LkI75I_VZTsh_KmF6HcDptcpa1WmFi_gsTfqNHVj8AfhXiUFkPuMUle2IvCMeAGbaMt2YEOpHc/s1600/IMG_6009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5dqu730PcJuyJsQNqt8RTNdamnUo9V-EgMJuolGAoTYcYgipDsAiYyY5tzrrC-F8-0LkI75I_VZTsh_KmF6HcDptcpa1WmFi_gsTfqNHVj8AfhXiUFkPuMUle2IvCMeAGbaMt2YEOpHc/s640/IMG_6009.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; text-align: center;">Alejandra’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cola de Mono</i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbnxhP_LSq6TTjYwYKCvw6NWGIa9CyZKZQ4W7QeXOD1utgBVYjLGgwR6RA1sJnVy-xUJEI61g1m9Mwu3FC_FWcFLO0rdRp98tPjY6xg2d31pFqdqGVyDQNG4fTdYqfZLwq8MAn17wHA-sE/s1600/IMG_6055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbnxhP_LSq6TTjYwYKCvw6NWGIa9CyZKZQ4W7QeXOD1utgBVYjLGgwR6RA1sJnVy-xUJEI61g1m9Mwu3FC_FWcFLO0rdRp98tPjY6xg2d31pFqdqGVyDQNG4fTdYqfZLwq8MAn17wHA-sE/s400/IMG_6055.JPG" width="313" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">What else happens on Chilean Christmas? In our house, my wife’s daughters, sons-in-law and granddaughters arrive at around dark, 8:30 or 9:00 PM. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pan de Pascua</i>, Christmas cookies, chips, olives, nuts and assorted nibbles are out for pre-dinner snacks and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cola de mono</i> and pisco sours are offered to the grownups. Dinner is at 10:00 or 11:00, served buffet style with a cold main dish (salmon, turkey breast, ham, etc.) and salads. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Champaign</st1:city></st1:place> (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">demi-sec</i>) is opened at midnight and served over pineapple sherbet, and Christmas <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">abrazos</i> (hugs) and kisses abound. And then we surround the tree and delve into the multitude of presents. More relatives arrive after midnight, bringing gifts and staying for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cola de mono</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pan de Pascua</i>, but things quiet down by two or three AM and it’s off to bed. Christmas day is simply “the day after,” with no special events other than recovery.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Here’s another Chilean family’s tradition, from the web site <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.navidadlatina.com/chile/">Navidad Latina</a></i>. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i>Christmas Chilean Style</i></span></div><div style="margin-left: 0.5in; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> by Maria Jesús Riveros Miño.</span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I am a heart felt Chilean and can say that for Chileans the most significant and awaited holiday is Christmas, along with the New Year. In the central region Christmas begins in early December when the Christmas advertisements come out for the fabulous toys that technology surprises us with daily; at this moment we see true consumerism, just like the rest of the world, but it all ends on the 24<sup>th</sup> at 6:00. Many people go to the “Mass of the Rooster” (celebrating the birth of Christ). Many people do religious things, while others just spend the time peacefully with their families. At about 10:00 PM they sit down at the table and enjoy the delicious Christmas supper that is usually turkey or chicken stuffed with corn. The campaign glasses ring and we listen to the Christmas Eve toasts. As midnight approaches we take the children for a walk while “The VIEJITO PASCUERO arrives” as we call Santa Claus or Father Christmas. Earlier the children would have been asleep and would have opened their presents on the 25<sup>th</sup>, but the way children are now, they have no problem staying up until midnight. When they come back to their house after their walk, they find all the presents and it is time to open them, but first they are dedicated to the baby Jesus. Some sing Christmas carols, others go out in the street to play with their bicycles, skates or other toys, others go to discothèques or just go to sleep to await the new day. Don’t forget that for us Christmas is in summer and everyone goes outside happily to play with their presents until the time got to bed to sleep as late as they want.</span></blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">If turkey is on the menu, as it seems to be in many Chilean households, it will probably be stuffed with a meat-fruit mixture, or with corn stuffing. Oddly, I could not find a Chilean recipe for corn stuffing (perhaps a kind reader will supply one) but here is a recipe for:</span><br />
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<div align="center" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in; text-align: center;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;"><a href="http://www.mis-recetas.org/recetas/show/4289-pavo-asado-relleno-chileno">Chilean fruit and pork stuffing for turkey</a><o:p></o:p></span></b></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">100 gm. ham<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">125 gm. pork loin<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">3 apples<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">125 gm. prunes<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">125 gm. chestnuts, cooked and peeled<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">100 gm. sultana raisins<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">125 grams lard<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">1 glass white wine<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">Thyme, bay leaf, oregano, parsley<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">A pinch of cinnamon<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">Salt and pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Tahoma;">Soak the raisins and prunes. Peel the apples and cut into slices, mince the pork lion and the ham. Melt the lard in a skillet and sauté the pork loin and ham, add the raisins and prunes, apples, chestnuts, cinnamon, herbs, salt and pepper and stir to mix. Add the wine and boil until it has evaporated. Allow to cool and stuff turkey with mixture. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
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</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Arial;">And 21<sup>st</sup> Century Chilean Christmas?<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic79EjmEFGJQweAaQso1lRMlyfIEg58iDeIAbjWDCSHzSUE89m8XM-bjP6jbVN8wpo7CbBLhNaCtD3JIYi7Kzr61u5BlAVLZLCvuiCmLh4b8XlgfyZiKDtWR6aTFuGL47oVIuW9j1tJOTr/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic79EjmEFGJQweAaQso1lRMlyfIEg58iDeIAbjWDCSHzSUE89m8XM-bjP6jbVN8wpo7CbBLhNaCtD3JIYi7Kzr61u5BlAVLZLCvuiCmLh4b8XlgfyZiKDtWR6aTFuGL47oVIuW9j1tJOTr/s400/New+Picture+%25287%2529.bmp" width="400" /></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="color: #330000; font-family: Arial;"> “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Marketing</i>” suggests that it will be more global, less Chilean, and expensive, if this ad for <a href="http://3w.lun.com/MER/revistas/index.asp?codRev=SA&fecha=&iResolucion=1280">“The Perfect Present”</a> from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">El Mecurio’s </i>Saturday magazine (11 Dec., 2010, p. 30) is any indication: <o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><b>“What to buy for a <i>foodie</i>? And a <i>runner</i>?<i> </i>A <i>techie</i>?” </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
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<span style="color: #330000; font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #330000; font-family: Arial;">The suggestions, top to bottom, left to right are: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #330000; font-family: Arial;">Secret of the Union Hams,” $9.30 US/100 grams; <i>Pan de Pascua</i>, $10.55; an automatic coffee maker, described as “<i>Super cool</i>,” $430; Ceramic knives, called “the ultimate in style," $80 each; a mortar and pestle, $24; and <i>Cook with Jaime</i> cookbook (in English), $108.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: x-large;">Feliz Navidad Chilena</span></i></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEB3D6crew1ZoettWURm3ZOKeGeLl5PmNEZdvS0APLSHERz_PtlXrn_znfMPNxUNpCeuhpK_EVrKefOOp8HI_GQ2jrqu65-poIaZOopDCmeePS7fv5kQgF7Wqyeb9OPm_1GBL9tqWnx5J/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEB3D6crew1ZoettWURm3ZOKeGeLl5PmNEZdvS0APLSHERz_PtlXrn_znfMPNxUNpCeuhpK_EVrKefOOp8HI_GQ2jrqu65-poIaZOopDCmeePS7fv5kQgF7Wqyeb9OPm_1GBL9tqWnx5J/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" /></a></div><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ccgi.piratefrog.plus.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=1218&slidespeed=0&offset=82&u=586917">Plaza de Armas, Santiago, 2005</a> Photo: Steve Davis</div></div><br />
<div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> “Pascua” is usually translated as “Easter” and in most of the Spanish speaking world that is what it refers to, but in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> it refers to both events associated with both the birth and death of Jesus. In Chile Easter is <i>“</i><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="color: black;">Pascua de Resurrección”</span></i></span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Tornero, Recaredo S. 1872. Chile Ilustrado. Valparaiso: Librerias I Ajencias del Mercurio. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012105">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012105</a> All translations mine unless otherwise noted.</span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Palma Alvarado,<span class="apple-converted-space"><sup> </sup></span>Daniel. 2004<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>De apetitos y de cañas.</i> El consumo de alimentos y bebidas en Santiago a fines del siglo XIX. P. 394. Historia No 37, Vol. II, julio-diciembre 2004: 391-417 On line at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717-71942004000200005&script=sci_arttext"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #11593c;">http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717-71942004000200005&amp;script=sciarttext</span></a></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Burnet, Marta. 1931. La Hermanita Hormiga: Tratado de arte culinario. Santiago: Editorial Nascimento. P 324. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/dest.asp?id=lahermanitahormiga:tratadodearteculinario">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/dest.asp?id=lahermanitahormiga:tratadodearteculinario</a>.</span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Lineros, Locío. 2008. Cata de Pan de Pascua 2008. El Mercurio. (Revista) Wikén. Dec 12, 2008. on line at </span><a href="http://diario.elmercurio.cl/detalle/index.asp?id=%7b17bfc934-c11c-4f2b-abf1-f6bd62b26cb2%7d"><span lang="ES-CL">http://diario.elmercurio.cl/detalle/index.asp?id={17bfc934-c11c-4f2b-abf1-f6bd62b26cb2}</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn6" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Eating%20Chilean%20Christmas.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Cocinando en Navidad. Chile.com. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.chile.com/secciones/ver_seccion.php?id=84224">http://www.chile.com/secciones/ver_seccion.php?id=84224</a></span></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-25393174305311528472010-11-29T16:52:00.003-03:002018-04-27T11:53:20.418-03:00Chilean Copper Cookware<div class="MsoNormal">
For my birthday I received this handsome copper <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">paila</i> from my step daughters and their husbands (Thank you again, M, M, J & N.). Aside from its beauty, I knew that copper was one of the best cookware materials because of its rapid and even heating. But I also knew there were some problems in cooking in copper… but exactly what they were, I didn’t know.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ujeiH2BBr7GuZlBHQxYxdbMbIrM7hFkTg992WaQq4ipEJzaprRgPnck2gz_c73l0reKmVE4zofvSPBuZVhy4zd2nEV2z9qwFq1pmVcS98hhW-YeWooE2wYlQk_AZ-wmZOEBn_0OxLhKX/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_7812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ujeiH2BBr7GuZlBHQxYxdbMbIrM7hFkTg992WaQq4ipEJzaprRgPnck2gz_c73l0reKmVE4zofvSPBuZVhy4zd2nEV2z9qwFq1pmVcS98hhW-YeWooE2wYlQk_AZ-wmZOEBn_0OxLhKX/s640/Copy+of+IMG_7812.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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As I began to search the internet, I quickly discovered that most copper cookware is coated with another metal because copper oxidizes when in contact with acids, creating the greenish patina seen on old copper, bronze and brass. This patina, called verdigris, is toxic and can cause gastrointestinal problems if ingested. </div>
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Traditionally copper was lined with a thin coating of tin, but tin scratches and will wear away in time. Tin also melts at only 425° F, a temperature easily reached in cooking. Nickel is also used as a lining, but the most common lining today is stainless steel.</div>
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My <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">paila</i> seems to be unlined. There is no obvious lining, the color is the same inside and out, and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.artecobre.cl/kitchen-c-29.html">ArteCobre</a></i>, the major seller of Chilean copper cookware (and presumably of mine), makes no mention of lining. Not a good sign, as one of the first copper cookware sites I encountered had this warning:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_d99-ibWMbysNcGUk7ZNiCCykHWZobAnTVb2Tc3ypsi6Og3v696J_Mf102maRfvGO2rmPq6eIS8KXtACOf5zr-14TmGuTE_1EvW8C9JyYSyjY5oMRc0pCdiV7clImcPrafNjpLFb7-Uk/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI_d99-ibWMbysNcGUk7ZNiCCykHWZobAnTVb2Tc3ypsi6Og3v696J_Mf102maRfvGO2rmPq6eIS8KXtACOf5zr-14TmGuTE_1EvW8C9JyYSyjY5oMRc0pCdiV7clImcPrafNjpLFb7-Uk/s400/New+Picture.bmp" width="400" /></a></div>
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Source: <a href="http://www.coppershop.co.za/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=16">The Copper Shop</a></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>The information sheet which came with my <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">paila</i> said the following:</div>
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<o:p></o:p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Cooking with pots or utensils of copper</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Copper has been commonly used in pots and kitchen utensils, it is very easy to work but it has its problems. What are the advantages and disadvantages of cooking in copper pots and utensils?<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> (All translations mine unless otherwise noted.)</span></span></blockquote>
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The advantages listed were: copper’s even heating and rapid conductivity of heat, the reduced tendency of food to stick because of the uniform temperature of the cooking surface, copper’s antibacterial properties, that vegetables like asparagus and artichokes cooked in copper retain their bright green color, and that jams and jellies cooked in copper are delicious and maintain a brilliant color. The final advantage is that</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Poisoning from cooking in copper does not occur easily [<span class="apple-style-span"><i>La intoxicación cocinando con cobre es muy difícil</i>]</span><span class="apple-style-span"> because the pot or utensil lets us know we should not use it through its green patina, and in addition, food cooked in it would have a strong flavor that would keep us from eating it. By contrast, we are being poisoned slowly without realizing it from tasteless traces of lead or asbestos in foods cooked in utensils of aluminum. We only have to keep copper utensils clean and unstained [to avoid problems].</span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_edn1" name="_ednref1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></a></span></blockquote>
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<span class="apple-style-span">When I searched the internet for the wording of ArteCoblre’s information sheet, I found it at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">En Buenas Manos</i>, a site providing information on “Beauty, Ecology, Illness, Esoterica, Pets, Nutrition, Recipies, Reflections, Therapies, and Healthy Life.” The author was </span>Josep Vicent Arnau, <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Naturopath and Acupuncturist</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">There is a certain attractive logic to the idea that cooking in unlined copper is safe if you keep the copper clean and don’t eat anything cooked in it that tastes bad. And the </span></span><span class="apple-style-span">articles I read on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">En Buenas Manos’</i> web site were sane, reasonable and not just marketing quackery,<span style="color: black;"> but Mr. Arnau’s credentials didn’t instill a great deal of confidence. (See Wikipedia’s article on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naturopathy">Naturopathy</a> and judge for yourself.) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Surely there is more authoritative advice. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span">And, of course, there is. </span>I. Herbert Scheinberg, M.D., (1920-2009) professor of medicine at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine, was one of the nation’s experts on copper toxicity and Wilson’s disease, a <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">genetic</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> disorder</span></span> causing the toxic accumulation of dietary copper in the liver, brain and other organs. According to one of the best articles I found, <a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=2676706555611983773&postID=2539317430531152847" name="top">“The Importance of Copper Cookware for Cooking” from the </a>site <a href="http://www.retinning.com/care.html">Retinning and Copper Care</a>: <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">[Dr. Scheinberg] contends that unless the copper has oxidized extensively enough to produce the green-blue copper salts commonly known as "verdigris," and/or highly acidic foods are to be cooked in the pot [with scratched or worn lining], use of the vessel is not dangerous. If acidic foods come in contact with the copper, they'll dissolve and absorb the copper salts, which are toxic. If the salts are present, the pot should be scoured. </span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><u> </u></span><a href="http://draft.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=2676706555611983773&postID=2539317430531152847" name="lined"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">[He says ] "Yes, people can get gastrointestinal upsets. But contrary to popular belief it's not fatal."</span></span></a></blockquote>
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The US Food and Drug Administration also has something to say about cooking in unlined copper pans:<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">John Thomas, of the division of regulatory guidance at the FDA’s Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition says that the agency cautions against using unlined copper for general cooking because the metal is relatively easily dissolved by some foods with which it comes in contact and, in sufficient quantities, can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_edn2" name="_ednref2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></a></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">So where are we? At one extreme we have The Copper Shop’s “NEVER COOK WITH AN UNLINED COPPER POT,” and at the other, ArteCobre’s “Poisoning from cooking in copper does not occur easily. “ Somewhere in the middle the FDA “cautions against using unlined copper for general cooking” and Dr. Scheinberg says, “unless the copper has oxidized extensively … and/or highly acidic foods are to be cooked, …use of the vessel is not dangerous.”<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">At this point it is obvious that my <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">paila</i> is not going to be my everyday pot. Egg whites and whipped cream are said to have more volume when beaten in unlined copper bowls, but what can be safely cooked in unlined pans? <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Unlined copper vessels are produced especially for making sugar syrups and candies:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">A sugar pot or sugar boiler is an unlined copper pan that is used, primarily by pastry chefs, to make sugar syrups. Because copper is so responsive to the heat, the pan gives the chef instant control as he or she boils the syrup to just the right temperature.</span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The acidity of the unlined copper causes some of the sugar to "invert," or split into glucose and fructose, which helps resist the sugar's tendency to recrystallize. The pans are also unlined because a traditional tin lining would come too close to melting temperatures in some cases….<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_edn3" name="_ednref3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></a></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">They are also used to make jams and jellies, as in the <a href="http://www.lepetitegourmetshoppe.com/id154.html">Mauviel jam pan</a> below, where it seems that the high sugar content offers some protection against the acids contained in the fruit… how and why, I could not discover.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial";">And they are used for making polenta:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What they are clearly <b>not</b> used for is cooking acidic foods; no tomato sauce, meats braised in wine, or sausages with sauerkraut. But it seems to me that, if used with caution, and cooked in sparkling clean pans, foods that are low in acid should be safe. (But note I am an anthropologist, not a chemist, toxicologist, MD or anything close to being pertinent to this issue… <b>this is not a recommendation for others.</b>)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So what are low acid or non acidic foods? Here are some examples of foods that occur frequently in my cooking</span></span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_edn4" name="_ednref4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></span></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (F</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">or reference </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">pH 7.0 is neutral; above 7.0 is alkaline; and below 7.0 is acidic; orange juice is 3.3 – 4.2)</span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It looks like green olives and tomatoes will definitely be excluded from my <i>piala</i>. Wine too, with an average pH of 3.3 to 3.7.</span></span></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_edn5" name="_ednref5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: navy;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: navy;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="color: navy;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">But most everything else looks OK<span style="color: navy;">, </span>especially if the bulk of a dish is a food that is close to neutral, like rice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">What did I cook? Paella. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here’s my paella recipe. Average pH of ingredients: around 6.0 – 6.2. Serves 4.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Olive oil as needed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 medium onion, chopped<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ green bell pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">½ red bell pepper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3 chicken thighs, boned (bones reserved)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1 lb.clams (mine were very small, more ornamental than substantive)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thyme, paprika (AKA <i>ají de color</i>), saffron (if you have it, I didn’t)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Clean mussels and clams, discarding any broken ones and those that don’t close. Reserve a dozen or so mussels, and steam the rest for 3-5 minutes in a cup of water until they open. Remove the meat from the open mussels and save the broth. Add 2 - 3 cups water and the chicken bones to the mussel broth (+ onion trimmings, parsley stems, etc.) and simmer until needed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Heat copper <i>paila</i> over a low flame until moderately hot (be careful, this won’t take long) add olive oil, chicken and sausages and sauté over low heat until brown. Remove meats and sauté onion, adding garlic and bell peppers after a few minutes. Then add thyme, paprika and saffron. Return meats to <i>paila</i> and add the rice. Sauté rice for 2-3 minutes, then add 3 cups mussel/chicken broth. Raise heat until the broth boils, then lower to a simmer. Cook without a lid for 15 to 20 minutes, tasting the rice for doneness from time to time (it should be al dente) and adding additional boiling broth if necessary. When about ½ the broth has been absorbed, add the reserved mussel meat and green beans or peas and stir. Then add the clams and mussels by pushing them into the rice. When rice is done, add olives and parsley, turn off the flame, cover <i>paila</i> with a lid, dish towels, etc. and allow to rest for 5 to 10 minutes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Serve with lemon quarters, salad and wine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It was great, with no off taste and (obviously) no greenish tint. And we felt fine afterwards… and still do. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I’m not going to use my <i>paila </i>every day, but I’ll make this paella again, and use it for polenta and risotto and jam. Maybe I’ll even make fudge.<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 10pt;">[</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">1]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Handout, ArteCobre. The text appears at En Buenos Manos, on line at <a href="http://www.enbuenasmanos.com/articulos/muestra.asp?art=125">http://www.enbuenasmanos.com/articulos/muestra.asp?art=125</a>. </span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Blumenthal, Dale (1990).</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Is That Newfangled Cookware Safe?</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">DHHS Publication No. (FDA) 91-2242.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> On line at</span></span><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.enotalone.com/article/7807.html"><span style="color: #0000cc;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.enotalone.com/article/7807.html</span></span></span></a></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> How to Make a Sugar Syrup in a Sugar Pot (or Not).<b> </b>O Chef. On line at <a href="http://www.ochef.com/735.htm">http://www.ochef.com/735.htm</a></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Master List of Typical pH and Acid Content of Fruits and Vegetables for Home Canning and Preserving. On line at <a href="http://www.pickyourown.org/food_acidity_ph_list.htm">http://www.pickyourown.org/food_acidity_ph_list.htm</a>, and Measuring the pH Value of Meat. Eutech instruments. On line at <a href="http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips35.htm">http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips35.htm</a> Beef reaches its lowest pH 18 to 24 hours after slaughter, after which it rises again.</span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cookware/Copper%20blog.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Pandell, Alexander J. 1999. The Acidity Of Wine. On line at <a href="http://www.wineperspective.com/the_acidity_of_wine.htm">http://www.wineperspective.com/the_acidity_of_wine.htm</a></span></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-60086965537196660112010-11-22T20:28:00.007-03:002011-06-20T17:14:57.129-04:00Breaded Whale Cutlets?<div class="MsoNormal">
Thumbing through my wife’s classic Chilean cookbook, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Gran Cocina Chilena <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">,</span></i> I came across this recipe in the fish and seafood section:</div>
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<span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Breaded Whale Cutlets <i> (Escalopas de Ballena)</i><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 kg. whale</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 teaspoons vinegar</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 eggs</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">¼ lt. of oil</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">¼ kg. bread crumbs</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt, pepper, parsley </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Cut the meat into thin cutlets, and soak in vinegar water for approximately 48 hours. Then season with salt, pepper and parsley. Beat the eggs and pass the cutlets through the beaten egg and then through the bread crumbs. Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the cutlets. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(All translations mine unless otherwise noted)</span></span></div>
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Aside from confirming my suspicion that the 2000 edition had not received much editing from previous editions (Chile stopped commercial whale hunting in 1983<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span>), it made me curious—and cost me several weeks of research.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Was whale once important in Chilean diet?<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Well, yes ...and no.<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Except for a brief and evidently unsuccessful marketing campaign to bring whale meat to the urban population in the 60s, whale meat was important only to indigenous Chileans. Whale oil, on the other hand, was a major ingredient in Chilean margarine for many years.</div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Whales in Aboriginal Diet </span></i><span style="font-size: 16pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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On the coast of <st1:place w:st="on">Chilean Patagonia</st1:place>, like other coasts where whales and humans existed, a beached whale, with it’s tons of meat and fat, was a gift not to be refused. The Chilean coast, from the <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Chiloe</st1:placename> south to <st1:place w:st="on">Tierra del Fuego</st1:place>, was the home of maritime hunter-gathers, the Yaghan, Kawésqar, and Chono<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_edn3" name="_ednref3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a> “Canoe Indians.” They lived on an almost exclusively meat diet, and traveled long distances trough the channels of the southern archipelago in bark canoes warmed by fires built on sod platforms. The men hunted seals and the women dove for shellfish in the frigid water. They had no clothing other than seal skin capes. <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Darwin</st1:place></st1:city>, like most other Europeans, reacted to them with a mixture of pity and horror:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">While going one day on shore near <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Wollaston</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>, we pulled alongside a canoe with six Fuegians. These were the most abject and miserable creatures I anywhere beheld. ….these Fuegians in the canoe were quite naked, and even one full-grown woman was absolutely so. …These poor wretches were stunted in their growth, their hideous faces bedaubed with white paint, their skins filthy and greasy, their hair entangled, their voices discordant, and their gestures violent. ….Whenever it is low water, winter or summer, night or day, they must rise to pick shellfish from the rocks; and the women either dive to collect sea-eggs, or sit patiently in their canoes, and with a baited hair-line without any hook, jerk out little fish. If a seal is killed, or the floating carcass of a putrid whale is discovered, it is a feast; and such miserable food is assisted by a few tasteless berries and fungi.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_edn4" name="_ednref4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></a></span> <o:p></o:p></div>
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Contemporary anthropology, with a different perspective than Victorian England, views them with neither pity nor horror (although their treatment by civilized people evokes both), but with interest and respect for their adaptation to a difficult environment. But <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Darwin</st1:place></st1:city>’s observation was substantially correct: the mainstay of their diet was seal meat, but beached whales--and shell fish and sea birds--were important.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_edn5" name="_ednref5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span> <o:p></o:p></div>
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Kawésqar seal hunting <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></div>
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The strong tides, narrow channels and shallow inlets made stranded whales relatively common, but sick or injured whales were actively hunted. Martin<span class="apple-style-span"> </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Gusinde<b>, </b>Catholic</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"> priest and anthropologist who conducted research among the peoples of the Chilean archipelago in the 1920s writes: </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">It seems almost incredible that the little Yámanas and Alaculufes [Yaghan and Kawésqar], with their fragile and weak canoes, dare to approach live whales in that violent and powerful ocean. In fact they do so, confident as much in their personal skill as in the efficacy of their harpoons. The Fuegians never approach a completely healthy whale, as that would be very dangerous. But there is a chance of success when they approach a whale that has been harassed by a sword fish or is mortally wounded. Then many canoes approach from all directions. The men throw their long harpoons and all pull violently on the lines to enlarge the many grave injuries of the animal. It is attacked from all sides, until at last, each man has thrown all his weapons at hand. It is strange to see the whale riddled with so many harpoons, javelins, and darts! Sometimes it happens that after so many hours of work by the Indians the animal escapes, in spite of being gravely wounded. But if the men are able to kill a sick or wounded animal, then they drag the enormous prey to the beach, taking advantage of the tide to push the deformed body of the animal as far on land as possible. This fish, of incalculable abundance, feeds many families for several weeks; its meat and oil, bones, tendons, barbels, and teeth have many uses.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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By 1946-48, when they were studied by French ethnographer Joseph Emperaire, the Kawésqar had largely abandoned their mobile way of life, and lived mainly in the <st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Puerto Eden</st1:placename> on <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Wellington</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>. Mestizo hunters had greatly reduced the seal population and the Kawésqar lived largely on shell fish, small game and food provided by the Chilean government—a diet much different from their fat-rich diet of the past.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Puerto Eden<o:p></o:p></div>
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But occasionally a stranded whale was found, and those families who retained a semblance of independence…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">…would leave silently during the night, steering toward where the whale was stranded. Camp was established as close as possible to the beached whale, and for as long a time as the Alcalufe [Kawésqar] temperament could endure it, they fed themselves on the whale meat. Later the families returned to Puerto Eden completely transformed… The children, in particular, became unrecognizable with the layer of fat that accumulated under their skin. In other times, according to the old people, the stranding of a whale was the pretext for parties and dances among the entire group.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Whales were also important to other Chilean indigenous costal people like the Lafquenches, Mapuche speakers of south central <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>, and Changos of northern Chilean and southern <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Peru</st1:place></st1:country-region>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span> The Changos not only scavenged beached whales, but according to Spanish monk, Antonio Vazquez de Espinosa who visited the area (in 1615?),<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span> they hunted whales using harpoons or lances with copper points. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 16pt;">Commercial whaling off the Chilean Coast</span></i></div>
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We’ll never know when the last stranded whale fed the remaining Kawésqar, but by the 1790s American whalers had discovered the rich whaling grounds of the Pacific and Chilean whales were (metaphorically) feeding the <st1:city w:st="on">New Bedford</st1:city> and <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Nantucket</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">Massachusetts</st1:state></st1:place> Yankees.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The year 1792 marks the opening of the bold and innovative whaling cycle. Participating in these events were ore that 24 English vessels, 8 from <st1:city w:st="on">Dunkirk</st1:city>, 6 from Nantucket and one form <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Bedford</st1:city></st1:place>, all crewed almost completely by North American officers and crews. The harvest was plentiful. Most returned to their ports of origin with full cargos.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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By the 1830s whalers from Europe and <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">America</st1:country-region></st1:place> crowded Chilean ports; over 100 were active in 1834.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span> But while they were allowed to enter and restock at major Chilean ports, they were not allowed to hunt in Chilean waters, leaving the productive inshore waters (more or less) untouched. This opportunity was not ignored; in 1840<span style="color: black;"> Chilean</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 7.5pt;"> </span>José Olivares began hunting sperm and humpback whales from the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Caleta </i>(fishing village) of<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Tumbes</i> in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Concepción</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Bay</st1:placetype></st1:place>. His family continued the enterprise until 1944, joined over the years by many others from <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Punta Arenas</st1:city></st1:place> to Coquimbo. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Another Chilean whaling family, the Macayas, got their start some 40 years later. In about 1880 Don Juan Macaya, farmer and father of 14 children, welcomed a young immigrant to the island Santa María, south of Concepcíon. He was Juan Da Silva, descendant of an old Portuguese whaling family. Da Silva, overwhelmed by the numbers of whales of all species seen off the island’s shore, convinced Macaya to become a whaler, saying, according to family historian, "You’re wasting time on land, because these whales you see there are a millionaire business.” <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span><o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="http://seacoastnh.com/whaling/whalelg.html">Source: Seacoast NH</a><br />
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During the 19<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century the main products from whales were oil and baleen or whale bone. Whale oil was used for lighting, especially important in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> for coal miners’ lamps, in soap, as a lubricant, and in paints and many other products. Baleen, with which many whale species filter food from large mouthfuls of seawater, was used where <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">strength and flexibility were required, including</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">collar stiffeners,</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">buggy whips</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">, </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">parasol</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">ribs, and corset</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">stays.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.whaleworld.org/About_Whale_World/Whaling_History/Whale_Products/">Source: Whale world</a></div>
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Captured whales were dismembered at sea or in on-shore whaling stations and stripped of their oil-bearing blubber and whale bone. Small quantities of meat were sometimes taken, to be fed to the crews, but the carcass and most of the meat was simply discarded into the sea.</div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">By the last third of the 19<sup>th</sup> century petroleum largely replaced whale oil and synthetics began to take the place of whale bone, and as the price of whale oil went into a sharp decline, so did the whaling enterprise.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">But starting in 1905 a new technology, hydrogenation, by which oil was converted to a solid, created new markets for whale oil, this time as human food in the form of margarine and shortening. And at about the same time</span></span>19<sup>th</sup> century whaling methods, the open whale boat, and the hand-thrown harpoon, were replaced by motorized ships with harpoon canons and harpoons with explosive charges. Whaling became much more efficient and profitable, and whaling became a major Chilean industry as new companies were formed in <st1:city w:st="on">Valparaiso</st1:city>, <st1:city w:st="on">Punta Arenas</st1:city>, on <st1:placename w:st="on">Chiloe</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype>, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Valdivia</st1:place></st1:city>, and Corral.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[15]</span></span></span></span></div>
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But the largest was established in 1936 in the fishing <st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Quintay,+Chile&sll=-33.655781,-69.752197&sspn=2.427914,4.345093&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Quintay,+Chile&ll=-33.107648,-71.589661&spn=1.221655,2.172546&z=9">Quintay</a>, south of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Valparaiso</st1:place></st1:city>, by a Chilean conglomerate, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Compañía Industrial INDUS</i>, manufacturer of a wide range of products from animal and vegetable oils. Facing a shortage of raw materials, <st1:place w:st="on"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">INDUS</i></st1:place><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>went into the whaling business and established a large on-shore whale processing plant. Two years later <st1:place w:st="on"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">INDUS</i></st1:place><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>opened a hydrogenation plant.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In its period of maximum production (decade of the 50s) [<i>INDUS’</i>] operation accounted for 2% of the whales captured and 1% of whale oil production world wide, all destined for the national market. The main species taken were the fin whale <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #120f04;">(<i>Balaenoptera physalus</i>) </span></span>and sperm whale<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #120f04;"> (<i>Physeter macrocephalus</i>).</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: #120f04;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: #120f04;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[16]</span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #120f04;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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INDUS 6 in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Iquique</st1:place></st1:city><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKY27nDH9_Kn2p91m3ZpDKzDozf-hKtnIKJ4yUYMVGYSBsOh0hyUTPgyMOYHgk6y56L4Jd3GNqYlPxTkHVf1bCAtA0FzEgq_-dIBL0ZY9azRShAy5yZBy3DtS0BLqKdMpLqQW7rhYb6sb2/s1600/New+Picture+%25284%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKY27nDH9_Kn2p91m3ZpDKzDozf-hKtnIKJ4yUYMVGYSBsOh0hyUTPgyMOYHgk6y56L4Jd3GNqYlPxTkHVf1bCAtA0FzEgq_-dIBL0ZY9azRShAy5yZBy3DtS0BLqKdMpLqQW7rhYb6sb2/s400/New+Picture+%25284%2529.bmp" width="366" /></a></div>
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<st1:place w:st="on">INDUS</st1:place>’ processing plant in Quintay. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9IkZN6PkPsnkG-qbI5olrd6wExEytu10tHzGqb6WnJ660epRRzK7Ie-0KKNZKHzspOkS9Y6bLpKW48VgkUvZo5P_cKsmvJH7pPvXzOkzRrVw58q2JOL2C0gTlJ2mv-uWigvmi91eDs8nq/s1600/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9IkZN6PkPsnkG-qbI5olrd6wExEytu10tHzGqb6WnJ660epRRzK7Ie-0KKNZKHzspOkS9Y6bLpKW48VgkUvZo5P_cKsmvJH7pPvXzOkzRrVw58q2JOL2C0gTlJ2mv-uWigvmi91eDs8nq/s640/New+Picture+%25287%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Quintay workers, 1960<o:p></o:p></div>
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Photos: <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://ballenerosdequintay.unab.cl/index.php?mact=Album,mec8c1,default,1&mec8c1albumid=1&mec8c1returnid=55&page=55"><span lang="EN-US">Balleneros de Quintay</span></a></span></div>
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The table below shows <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s whale catch in relation to the rest of the whaling world for individual years from 1910 to 1980.<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_edn17" name="_ednref17" style="mso-endnote-id: edn17;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">17]</span></span></span></span></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVsAr7oILLVAf7zL2h_MUBkJ9kDP5KOqHFsxzOg5c1e1eN82tBBD7pSwTu8DMqT9hwg6jg7dPNaQGWIXEcMPbPYJDE4QhH4cT3-BBs4lL26Wt6SmfenjYCkFdgFkViZRyxSFs83-gMLbu5/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVsAr7oILLVAf7zL2h_MUBkJ9kDP5KOqHFsxzOg5c1e1eN82tBBD7pSwTu8DMqT9hwg6jg7dPNaQGWIXEcMPbPYJDE4QhH4cT3-BBs4lL26Wt6SmfenjYCkFdgFkViZRyxSFs83-gMLbu5/s640/New+Picture.bmp" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Whale Meat in 20<sup>th</sup> Century <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place><o:p></o:p></span></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWlGT-HpYWz4j42R82r2AWCJAgM2dqjQRBEG2p5dql41AyitSJsu06T3JcGRU0vDdfKbCZxSWV5-QMrZiejNevdIkT1EgDsMVwR2YQHaASILjiPzbFmEcT_S7AaxOscjKPR6WP9k2fGgg/s1600/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWlGT-HpYWz4j42R82r2AWCJAgM2dqjQRBEG2p5dql41AyitSJsu06T3JcGRU0vDdfKbCZxSWV5-QMrZiejNevdIkT1EgDsMVwR2YQHaASILjiPzbFmEcT_S7AaxOscjKPR6WP9k2fGgg/s320/New+Picture+%252814%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
In 1965, near the <st1:placetype w:st="on">peak</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Chile</st1:placename>’s whaling production, an article entitled “Nutritional value of whale meat consumed in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>” appeared in a Chilean journal of nutrition, public health and toxicology.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[18]</span></span></span></span> It began:</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The Chilean dietary panorama manifests a scarcity of proteins of animal origin. At the same time, consider the reality that the national territory possesses an extension of more than 4,000 km of coast, and therefore, great fishery resources, thus promotion of consumption of fish, shellfish and whales assumes an indisputable importance. ….whales used for consumption belong to the varieties finback, blue and humpback, always referring to young animals. The sperm whale is not eatable by man due to the composition of its fat, but it is processed for the preparation of meal for animal feeds. The variety of whale preferred in the country is the finback, whose meat is quite similar to that of beef, especially when coming from young animals.</span></blockquote>
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The conclusion, in an English summary was, “The results show that this meat is an excellent source of good quality protein which is highly digestible.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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The article is followed by a public service ad from the Chilean national commission to encourage consumption of “fishery products,” and although whale is not mentioned, the sea creature pictured looks reasonably whale-like. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I did not discover a campaign specifically promoting whale meat, but there was a campaign to promote whale products, including meat. The poster below, from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Balleneros de Quintay</i>, shows foods (translated in red) prominently.</div>
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<a href="http://ballenerosdequintay.unab.cl/index.php?page=productos-de-las-ballenas">Products obtained from the whale</a><o:p></o:p><br />
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Ultimately, however, whale did not become popular in Chilean diet, and production was largely exported or converted into whale meal.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The hunting and butchering of whales in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> was focused primarily on the production of oils, meat meal, bone meal, and finally, meat. This was largely because the species most commonly token, the sperm whale, was destined exclusively for the production of oils, derivatives, and secondary products; consumption of its meat never gained a place in the national market due to objective problems (difficulties in preservation and cooking) and subjective values (whale meat was considered second class). Loin meat of fin whales [<i>Balaenoptera physalus</i>], was preferred for human consumption. The production of meat, principally meat from fin whales, required a series of additional steps during the hunt. The animal could not be harpooned in the loin; and had to be chilled through the opening in the abdominal cavity from the anus to the diaphragm. Only during the last three seasons that the Quintay plant operated (1964-67), working with three modern whale hunting ships provided by their partner, the Japanese Nitto Whaling Company, did the production of whale meat become important. As much as nine thousand tons of meat was exported to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Japan</st1:country-region></st1:place> in 1965. Meat left over from rendering [the oil] was made into meat meal used in the production of feed for cattle, poultry and domestic animals. It is estimated that for every 5.45 kilos of whale meat 1 kilo of meat meal was obtained.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[19]</span></span></span></span></div>
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But some Chileans did become enthusiastic eaters of whale meat. Workers at the Chome whaling station “remember the abundance of the weekly 15 kg. of the prized meat of these large cetaceans that the industry provided to each family of its workers.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[20]</span></span></span></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Postscripts</span></i><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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The whaling station at Quintay is now the site of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Centro de Investigación Marina Quintay</i> (<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Quintay</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Marine</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Research</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Center</st1:placetype></st1:place>) of the Universidad Andrés Bello and a museum. Go for a visit; Quintay is also home to excellent sea food restaurants. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOMrokJLysMiE-AVMC8Zt1h5fTYI1IFhF7R5MsA0Igsa0nWt2-K6684Kx4fafLsYbvOJ6-MYzJPCnrn65dCd65UqwSYf9oSvC8UP0pYZCnl1vGUOKEad_nxwzaMGxQDE1BBPNQW7ciJPee/s1600/New+Picture+%252815%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOMrokJLysMiE-AVMC8Zt1h5fTYI1IFhF7R5MsA0Igsa0nWt2-K6684Kx4fafLsYbvOJ6-MYzJPCnrn65dCd65UqwSYf9oSvC8UP0pYZCnl1vGUOKEad_nxwzaMGxQDE1BBPNQW7ciJPee/s640/New+Picture+%252815%2529.bmp" width="640" /></a></div>
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In 2008 <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> passed a bill banning all whaling and declaring Chilean waters to be a whale sanctuary. </div>
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<a href="http://www.ballenazul.org/english/index.html"><i>Centro Ballena Azul</i></a> Blue Whale Project. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">“Since 1997, Dr. Rodrigo Hucke-Gaete has researched blue whales in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> and in <st1:place w:st="on">Antarctica</st1:place>. Within this work he was able to discover the largest aggregation of blue whales in the Southern Hemisphere, in the area of Chiloé-Corcovado, south of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Further research has mainly focused on identifying the summer arrival of whales in southern <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>.”</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.ccc-chile.org/home.php?areaID=207&cPath=207">Centro de Conservación Cetáceas</a> </span></i><span lang="ES-CL">Center for Cetacean Conservation<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span lang="ES-CL">Alfaro, Mónica T. 2000. La Gran Cocina Chilena, 8th Edition. Santiago: Ediciones Occidente S.A. p. 303 <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Who caused the decrease in whales? Greenpeace. On line at <a href="http://www.greenpeace.or.jp/campaign/oceans/factsheet/3_en_html">http://www.greenpeace.or.jp/campaign/oceans/factsheet/3_en_html</a>.</span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Yaghan are also known as the Yámana or Yamana; the Kawésqar are AKA Alacalufes. There is only one surviving Yaghan speaker, about 20 Kawésqar speakers and no surviving Chono speakers. </span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Darwin, Charles. 1909. The Voyage of The Beagle. The Harvard Classics</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Edited By Charles W Eliot LLD. <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">New York</st1:place></st1:state>: P. F. Collier & Son. p. 228-29. On line at <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/voyageofbeagle00darwuoft">http://www.archive.org/details/voyageofbeagle00darwuoft</a> </span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Schiavini, Adrián. 1993. Los lobos marinos como recurso para cazadores-recolectores marinos: El caso de tierra del Fuego. Latin American Antiquity 4(4):346-366.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Barros Valenzuela, Alvaro. 1975. Aborígenes australes de América. Santiago : Lord Cochrane, Chapt. 5. En el país de Ayayema. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0001753">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0001753</a></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Gusinde, Martin. 1951. Hombres primitivos en la tierra del fuego. Sevilla: Escuela de Estudios Hispano-Americanos de Sevilla. p. 212. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0004214">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0004214</a> </span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Emperaire, Joseph. 1963 (French original, 1955) Los Nómades del Mar. Ser Indígena - Portal de las Culturas Originarias de Chile. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">P. 86. On line at <a href="http://www.serindigena.cl/territorios/recursos/biblioteca/libros/pdf/nomades_mar.pdf">http://www.serindigena.cl/territorios/recursos/biblioteca/libros/pdf/nomades_mar.pdf</a> </span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Bollaert, William. 1860. Antiquarian, Ethnological and Other Researches in <st1:city w:st="on">New Granada</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Ecuador</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>. <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">London</st1:place></st1:city>: Trubner & Co. p. 171 on Line at <u><span style="color: blue;">b</span></u><cite><u><span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal;">ooks.google.com</span></u></cite><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Vázques de Espinosa. 1942 (1628) Compendium and Description of the <st1:place w:st="on">West Indies</st1:place>. Translated by Charles Upson Clark. Smithsonian Miscellaneous Collections, Vol. 102. <span lang="ES-CL">On line at </span><a href="http://www.archive.org/details/smithsonianmisce1021942smit"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.archive.org/details/smithsonianmisce1021942smit</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL">Pereira Salas<span style="color: #2e3f4c;">, Eugenio. 1971. Los primeros contactos entre Chile y los Estados Unidos: 1778-1809. </span></span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;">Santiago</span></span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #2e3f4c;"> : Andrés Bello. p. 42 On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0033424">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0033424</a><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: #2e3f4c;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Ballenas en la bahía de Concepción. Tell Magazine. Feb. 16, 2009 On line at </span></span><a href="http://200.24.235.2/tell.cl/concepcion/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=640&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">http://200.24.235.2/tell.cl/concepcion/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=640&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span class="a"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: green;">Jorsep (</span></span><span lang="ES-CL">Jorge Sepúlveda Ortiz</span><span lang="ES-CL">) 1977. La epopeya de la industria ballenera Chilena. Revista de Marina Armada de Chile En Línea, 1997 #6 On line at </span><span class="a"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: green;">www.revistamarina.cl/revistas/1997/3/filippi.pdf</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> “Baleen” and “Whale Oil” from Wikipedia.</span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[15]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span class="a"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: green;">Jorsep, <i>op. Cit.</i></span></span><i><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref16" name="_edn16" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[16]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Balleneros de Quintay: Historia, Educación, y Conservación de un Pueblo Ballenero. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">On line at <a href="http://ballenerosdequintay.unab.cl/index.php?page=inicio">http://ballenerosdequintay.unab.cl/index.php?page=inicio</a></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref17" name="_edn17" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[17]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Whaling Statistics. Whaling Library. On line at </span></span><a href="http://luna.pos.to/whale/sta.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">http://luna.pos.to/whale/sta.html</span></a></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref18" name="_edn18" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[18]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Valor nutritivo de la carne de ballena consumida en Chile.<br />
Schmidt-Hebbel H., Pennacchiotti L, Pérez J.,González C., Meruane J. 1965.<br />
Rev. Nutrición, Bromatología y Toxicología, 1:155<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Whale/Chilean%20whale.doc#_ednref19" name="_edn19" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[19]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> <span lang="ES-CL">Balleneros de Quintay, <i>op. cit.<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-61366859356613041932010-10-22T14:17:00.010-03:002011-06-20T17:35:13.477-04:00Broad Beans and Peas<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px;"></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://albioncooks.blogspot.com/2010/05/pea-fava-bean-salad-with-feta-green.html">Photo: Albion Cooks</a></span></span></span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cultivation of vegetables in </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> maintains a geographic distribution according to the taste of the inhabitants, or more accurately, according to the nature of the climate. In the north beans are dominant, in the south peas, among the Mapuche fava beans and in the archipelago of Chiloé, potatoes</span></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. Caludio Gay 1882 </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Most of the posts in </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eating Chilean</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> start out with something new I see in the market, and this is no exception. I had never seen, much less eaten, fava beans in the </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">US</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, but knew about them because of their relation to </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/n.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose-6-phosphate_dehydrogenase_deficiency"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">favism</span></span></a></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a genetic intolerance discussed in every introductory course in Physical Anthropology. </span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Peas, of course, I knew. But only the fresh green ones; finding dried peas—as in </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">pease porridge hot</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">—to be common in Chile (historically, if not today) was another surprise. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Broad beans (</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">habas</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in Spanish) are among the world’s oldest domesticated plants, and were part of the Mediterranean crop inventory by 6000 BC or earlier. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As a dry bean—and apart from garbanzos the only bean known in Europe--they were commonly part of ship’s stores, and probably came to the </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Americas</span></span></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> with </span></span><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Columbus</span></span></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and to </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> with the conquistadores. While they are very hardy and can be grown under a wide variety of conditions, they do best in cool climates and do not set seed pods well in temperatures over 65° F.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">When the Spanish arrived, the Mapuche, the indigenous people of south central </span></span><st1:country-region style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">, were a riverine people dependant on hunting, fishing, collecting wild foods and cultivating maize, potatoes, and other American crops. Their homeland, the Araucania, from the Rio Bio Bio south to the Rio Tolten and beyond, has a temperate oceanic climate; marginal for most Amerindian crops with tropical origins, except potatoes. Average summer temperatures are in the 60s and 70s, and winter lows are usually above freezing. Annual rainfall, concentrated in the winter months, ranges from 45 inches in </span></span><st1:city style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Temuco</span></span></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> to almost 100 inches in </span></span><st1:city style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Valdivia</span></span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">. Not great for maize or common beans, but ideal for favas.<o:p></o:p></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><br />
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">When fava beans were adopted by the Mapuche is unclear, but they were probably introduced to the region by the Spanish who briefly set up fortified towns in the Araucaria in the 1550s, before the Mapuche developed military tactics to drive them out. </span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Tomás Guevara, in </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">El Pueblo Mapuche </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">(</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">The Mapuche People)</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">, writes:<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">With the Spanish occupation, especially in the final third of the 16<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">th</span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span"> century, Araucanian agriculture underwent a major change, and in consequence, produced a revolution in the economic and social order, building on the family structure and the intelligence and energy of the patriarchal community. Without abandoning their existing crops, they learned to cultivate the cereals imported by the conquistadores, especially wheat, which they called </span>cachilla<span class="Apple-style-span"> for its origin in </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Castile</st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span">, and barley, </span>cahuella.<span class="Apple-style-span"> Following these in importance came fava beans and peas.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">[4]</span></span></span> </span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Habas</span></span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> aren’t mentioned by </span></span></span><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/feasting-with-enemy-17th-century.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">, the Chilean born Spanish soldier captured by the Mapuche in 1620, who gives us some of the earliest information on Mapuche food, but they occur in virtually all later accounts of Mapuche food or agriculture. For example, in the Mapuche </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">lonco </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">(headman) Pascual Coña recalled:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">When I was still little I helped my father. He worked in the fields, where he planted a little wheat, a little barley, peas, flax, maize, fava beans, common beans, potatoes; but only a little of each species; the old people had little practice in this work. When harvest time came, all these products were gathered, but soon they ran out and a great shortage of food followed. The first foods after the great shortage (of September to November) were fava beans and peas. </span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">As the little harvest drew near and green products appeared, the women would go to harvest their fava beans or peas; carrying baskets and <i>chaihues</i> [sifting baskets]. They filled them and then returned happily to their houses. In their houses they shelled them and put them over the fire in a large pot to boil. When they were well cooked they took the pot off the fire and put them in a big sieve. They ate them communally with soup.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Today fava beans continue to be popular in </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> and in terms of area planted, are the 14</span></span><sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">th</span></span></span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> most important vegetable. Production of 21,000 metric tons of fresh favas makes </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> the 13</span></span><sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">th</span></span></span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">largest producer in the world (2005), and among the largest exporters: 921 tons with a value of $1.6 million US. In 2008. </span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">But enough history; how and why should you try them? <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">For the “why,” it’s simple: they are good, nutritious (see below), and along with peas and asparagus, are among the earliest spring crops to appear. They are buttery, mildly bitter, with a nutty taste. And they are inexpensive (here in </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">), easy to grow and simple to prepare. How? Simply snap off the ends of the long pods and string them, like big string beans. Then open the pods and strip out the beans. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Put in a pan with a little water and steam for 5 to 8 minutes—until tender. (old beans may take longer). Taste one. If you like it, you are done. If you find the outer coating of the seed tough or chewy, remove it—this seems to be recommended in most recipes (</span></span><a href="http://localfoods.about.com/od/preparationtips/ss/ShellingFavas.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #3d85c6;">here for example</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">), but I’ve never found it necessary. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">From this point, peeled or unpeeled, there are lots of choices. My favorite is simply seasoned with lemon juice, olive oil, spring onions, parsley, salt and pepper.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Or if they are especially young and tender, try a Spanish style </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><br />
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<i><a href="http://www.pepekitchen.com/articulo/receta-de-tortilla-de-habas-frescas-con-cebolletas/"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Tortilla</span></span></b></a><span style="font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.pepekitchen.com/articulo/receta-de-tortilla-de-habas-frescas-con-cebolletas/"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> of fava beans and scallions</span></span></b></a></span></i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">.</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ingredients for an tortilla for 2 people</span></span></b></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">500 gr.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">fresh beans, 2 green onions, 100 cc.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">olive oil, salt, 4 eggs.</span></span></blockquote>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Procedure</span></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Thoroughly wash beans and pods, we will use the pods.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Drain and cut the ends of each pod.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">No need to remove the filaments from the edges, unless the beans are not tender. Cut into pieces an inch long.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Cut the green onions into thin slices.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sauté beans in olive oil with onions over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Add a glass of water, just enough to cover the beans, and a little salt, and let</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">cook over medium heat 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until beans are tender and almost all the water has evaporated.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Beat eggs separately with a little salt.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Drain the beans and onions to a colander to remove excess liquid and add the beaten eggs.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Pour into a medium nonstick skillet, heated with a tablespoon of olive oil.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Let tortilla set over medium heat 2-3 minutes, then lower the heat and let simmer 8-10 minutes.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">With the help of a plate or lid, turn the tortilla and finish cooking on the other side about 5 minutes.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">If you want it browned, increase the heat at the end. The tortilla should be slightly moist inside, but that’s a matter of taste.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Serve warm or at room temperature, accompanied by fresh bread. (my translation)</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For other recipes see </span></span><a href="http://www.seasonalchef.com/recipe0506b.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SEASONAL CHEF: Nine Ways to Use Fava Beans</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Peas (</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Pisum sativum)</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Pease porridge hot, pease porridge cold,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Pease porridge in the pot, nine days old;<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Some like it hot, some like it cold,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Some like it in the pot, nine days old.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Like fava beans, peas (</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">arvejas</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in Chilean Spanish,</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> guisantes</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span>or </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">chicharos</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> elsewhere) are an old crop, cultivated in </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bronze Age villages in </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Switzerland</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> as </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">early as 3,000 BC. And like favas, they are a cool weather crop. While today’s peas are usually eaten as green peas while tender, sweet and young, mature dry peas were an historically important source of protein in the diet of Mediterranean, North African and European people.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">A large kettle containing a thick porridge made of peas hung over the fire in many English and Scottish homes during the Middle Ages and was customary even in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Because few of the peasants could afford meat, they based their meals on pease porridge with an abundance of whatever vegetables were on hand. When the fire died down at night, the morning porridge was quite cold. Each day the fire was relit, and more peas and vegetables were added to the kettle. Indeed, the original ingredients in the kettle could have been nine days old.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The date of their arrival in Chile is unknown, but Juan Ignacio Molino’s </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ensayo sobre la historia natural de Chile</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, published in 1810 notes that they were common by then: “Garbanzos, lentils, peas, barley and other similar grains are found here in great quantities.”</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> And the cool rainy climate of south central </span></span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is ideal for their cultivation. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arvejas secas – </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dry peas<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today dry peas, or field peas, continue to be produced in Chile, but at a very reduced level; production has declined from 20,000 hectares in 1930, when peas were second only to beans in hectares of legumes planted, to only about 1,800 in the late 1990’s, the last period for which I could find information. The recent decline has been largely due to weevils that infest the dry seeds.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span>I found mine in a </span></span><i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/at-tostaduria.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">tostaduria</span></span></a></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in </span></span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Santiago</span></span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">’s large public market, La Vega.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Arvejas con arroz – </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">peas with rice<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Why was I looking for them? Because I had eaten </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">cordero arvajado</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, lamb stew with dry peas, on an ethno-tourism </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">v</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">isit to a Mapuche home</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and because I knew that historically peas had been an important Chilean food. The classic Chilean cookbook </span></span><i><a href="http://www.buscalibros.cl/gran-cocina-chilena-monica-alfaro-cp_585354.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">La Gran Cocina Chilena</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8</span></span><sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></span></span></sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Edition, 2000) includes recipes with “peas” (</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">arvejas</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> or </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">guisantes</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) in the tile for </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">arvejadas</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (stews with peas) of chicken, pigeon, lamb, tongue, meatballs, schnitzel, tripe, and conger; plus “</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">guisantes</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">” of Brussels sprouts and “</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">guisante frances;” arvejas </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">with ham and eggs, with rice, with pasta, with </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">mote</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, with almonds, with leg of lamb, and with pork kidneys; </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">tortilla de arvejas; </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">and pea soup. And of course, peas are in many more dishes that don’t have them in the title. Most now call for canned or fresh green peas, but they were made originally with dry peas. </span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pollo arvejada </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">– Chicken with (green) peas</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cooking dry peas</span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sort through the peas for any that seem damaged or spoiled and for any pebbles or twigs. Then wash and cover with abundant water and soak over night. Cook the soaked peas in their soaking water (or fresh if you prefer) until tender, 1 to 2 hours (and perhaps more), adding onions, garlic, bacon, etc. when they are ½ cooked if you wish.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Note that whole dry peas are not the same as split peas. Split peas are dry peas that have been skinned and mechanically split into halves. They do not require soaking.) <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Making </span></b></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">arvejadas</span></b></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Although the recipes differ in certain respects, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">arvejadas </span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">generally entail braising the meat with onions, garlic and perhaps other vegetables (carrots, potatoes, tomatoes) and adding fresh, canned, or cooked dry peas near the end of cooking. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Roberto Marin’s </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Chilean-Cuisine-Roberto-Marin/dp/9563160142/ref=pd_sim_b_4"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Secrets of Chilean Cuisine</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">gives this recipe:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">6 chicken thighs</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">6 medium potatoes, peeled and diced</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2 carrots, sliced</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 medium onion, diced</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">½ cup oil</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3 whole garlic cloves, peeled</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1 teaspoon thyme</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Salt and pepper</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">1. Heat the oil in a skilled and sauté the garlic until very well browned. Remove the garlic and fry the chicken thighs in the same oil until golden.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">2. Add the carrots and onions. When the onion is translucent, add 1½ cups water and the seasonings. Simmer over low heat until the chicken is tender, about 30 minutes. </span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">3. Add the potatoes, turn up the heat and boil for about 15 minutes. Finally add the peas and cook another 10 minutes.</span></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Secret: Bring out the flavor of the chicken by marinating it for two hours before cooking using ½ clove of crushed garlic, thyme, a tablespoon of lemon juice, and salt and pepper.</span></i></span></blockquote>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nutritionally fava beans and peas are similar, providing good levels of protein with very little fat, useful quantities of iron and calcium. They are good sources of vitamins while green, and the mature seeds are good sources of dietary fiber.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Gay, Claudio. 1882. Agricultura, Vol. 1 p. 160. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On line at </span></span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002687"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002687</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All translations mine unless otherwise noted.</span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">G6PDH is the most common human enzyme defect, being present in more than 400 million people worldwide.</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">African, Middle Eastern and South Asian people are affected the most along with those who are mixed with any of the above.</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A side effect of this disease is that it confers protection against</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">malaria, in particular the form of malaria caused by</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plasmodium falciparum</span></span></i></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, the most deadly form of malaria. A similar relationship exists between malaria and</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">sickle-cell disease. One theory to explain this is that cells infected with the</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Plasmodium</span></span></i></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">parasite are cleared more rapidly by the</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">spleen. This phenomenon might give G6PDH deficiency carriers an evolutionary advantage by increasing their fitness in malarial endemic environments. </span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">G6PD deficiency is closely linked to</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">favism</span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a disorder characterized by a hemolytic reaction to consumption of</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">broad beans, with a name derived from the</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Italian</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">name of the broad bean (</span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">fava</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">).</span></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency, From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia on line at </span></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose-6-phosphate_dehydrogenase_deficiency"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glucose-6-phosphate_dehydrogenase_deficiency</span></span></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Posts tagged “growing fava beans” Botanical Interests Online, On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.botanicalinterests.com/blog/?tag=growing-fava-beans"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.botanicalinterests.com/blog/?tag=growing-fava-beans</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Vicia faba</span></span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. On line at </span></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicia_faba"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicia_faba</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Guevara, Tomás. 2003. El Pueblo Mapuche. </span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chapt. 4. On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/12826627559064844198624/index.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/12826627559064844198624/index.htm</span></span></a></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Wilhelm de Moesbach, Ernesto. 1936 Vida y costumbres de los indigenas araucanas en la segunda mitad del siglo xix (presentadas en la autobiografia del indigena Pascual Coña). Santiago de Chile: Imprenta Universitario Estado 63. p. 31 & 96.On line at </span></span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008879"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008879</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean Agriculture Overview, 2009. Agarian Policies and Studies Bureau, Ministerio de Agricultura. </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On line at </span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><a href="http://www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/Panorama2009.pdf"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">www.odepa.gob.cl/odepaweb/publicaciones/Panorama2009.pdf</span></span></span></a></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, </span></span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Habas 'baby' buscan diversificar mercado de las hortalizas, 4/7/2008. Chile Potencia Alimentaria on line at </span></span></span><a href="http://www.chilepotenciaalimentaria.cl/content/view/225483/Habas-baby-buscan-diversificar-mercado-de-las-hortalizas.html#content-top"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.chilepotenciaalimentaria.cl/content/view/225483/Habas-baby-buscan-diversificar-mercado-de-las-hortalizas.html#content-top</span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, and </span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="letter-spacing: 0.75pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">El cultivo de la haba, InfoAgro.com, on line at </span></span></span></span><a href="http://www.infoagro.com/hortalizas/haba.htm"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.infoagro.com/hortalizas/haba.htm</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Children’s song of unknown origin, see “Pease Porridge Hot” From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, on line at</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pease_Porridge_Hot"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pease_Porridge_Hot</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" style="color: #0e774a; font-family: arial, sans-serif;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[8]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> “Guiso” is “stew” in Spanish; “guisante” is “pea.” Although it seems to mean “that which is stewed” it turns out to be from the Arabic </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; color: black; font-family: sans-serif; font-style: italic; line-height: 19px; text-decoration: none;"><a class="new" href="http://es.wiktionary.org/w/index.php?title=bi%C5%A1%C5%A1%C3%A1ut&action=edit&redlink=1" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: initial; background-image: none; background-origin: initial; font-family: sans-serif; font-style: italic; line-height: 19px; text-decoration: none;" title="biššáut (página no existe)">biššáut</a>, "pea."</span><i style="font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19px; text-decoration: none;"> </i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">Evidently the two are unrelated.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[9]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Pease Porridge Hot, Pease Porridge Cold, Vegetarians in </span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Paradise</span></span></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, on line at </span></span><a href="http://www.vegparadise.com/highestperch52.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.vegparadise.com/highestperch52.html</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[10]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Molina, Juan Ignacio. 1987. Ensayo sobre la historia natural de Chile: Bolonia 1810. </span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Primera traducción del original italiano, prólogo y notas del Prof. Dr. Rodolfo Jaramillo. </span></span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Santiago</span></span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> : Eds. Maule. p. 198. On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002868"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002868</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, and </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chilean Agriculture Overview, </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">op. cit.</span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[11]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Correa Vergara, Luis. 1938. Agricultura Chilena. Vol. 1. Santiago: Imprenta Nascimiento. p. 138. On line at </span></span></span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0027745"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0027745</span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Fruits-veg/Broad%20Beans%20and%20Peas.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[12]</span></span></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Self Nutrition Data, on line at </span></span><a href="http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/vegetables-and-vegetable-products/3037/2"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/vegetables-and-vegetable-products/3037/2</span></span></a></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-71759518796605693872010-10-06T17:05:00.019-04:002012-01-30T10:26:51.509-03:00Eating Iberian<div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once in a while Eating Chilean goes off subject to write about vacation food, and this is one of those occasions, so here are some highlights from a month in </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Spain</span></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Portugal</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">El menú del día</span></span></i><span lang="ES-CL"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> - Cáceres</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cáceres was our first stop after leaving </span><st1:state w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Madrid</span></st1:state><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, where we found the food in </span><st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Madrid</span></st1:place></st1:state><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">’s touristic center unremarkable, and unfortunately the smoky bars made an evening of tapas unappealing. </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%A1ceres,_Spain"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cáceres</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a city of under 100,000, has a beautifully reconstructed walled old town, but it was not overrun with tourists and its restaurants serve local food to mostly local people. As in Chile and most of Latin America the main meal is eaten in the early afternoon, and many restaurants serve a </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">menú del día</span></i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">, usually a three course fixed price meal with several choices for each course, bread, wine and coffee for 8 to 16€. </span> </span></b></div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here, at the </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Meson los Portales</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, first courses included mixed Iberian cold cuts, salad, paella, eggs with fried bread, octopus in the </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Galicia</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> style, gazpacho, and melon with serrano ham. Main courses were Iberian secret (a tender cut of pork), cuttlefish brochettes, braised pork cheeks, monkfish in green sauce, salt cod, and pork (?) filet in pastry. </span></div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3_XTTCHsW8EilZioIaRLol2XN6s5E6fqVIswVVRh-ELnqqgxsT39qUFjvMy1I3k2g4VjbFneSoanY90yrZ6YeqGAa0U54HY9OrvzacPqESKIi71_2MbKfdw5VP258M-PQSJrmAkzWZvV/s1600/IMG_6889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3_XTTCHsW8EilZioIaRLol2XN6s5E6fqVIswVVRh-ELnqqgxsT39qUFjvMy1I3k2g4VjbFneSoanY90yrZ6YeqGAa0U54HY9OrvzacPqESKIi71_2MbKfdw5VP258M-PQSJrmAkzWZvV/s400/IMG_6889.JPG" width="400" /></span></b></a></div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And then the </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">bacalao rebosado, </span></i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">the battered and fried salt cod.</span> </span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wine, a light local red, was served chilled, accompanied by a bottle of sweetened mineral water, which local residents mixed half-and-half with the wine. Chilled, I accept. It was refreshing on a hot September day, and appears to be the custom throughout much of </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Spain</span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. Mixed with sweetened mineral water? No thank you.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Grilled sardines – </span></i><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lisbon</span></i></st1:place></st1:city><i><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></b></i></span><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving Cáceres, we took the train to </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lisbon</span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, and again found mostly unremarkable tourist food… except for the grilled sardines which were great. Why don’t other countries (like </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) eat fresh sardines? </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was one of the most memorable meals of the trip, a </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">menú</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> on a cold rainy day at </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.dpepa.com/es/index.htm"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Restaurante Doña Pepa</span></a></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> on the plaza in Ronda. It included two dishes I knew about but had never eaten. The Serrano ham, sliced very thin, was served over a </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">piel de sapo</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (toad skin) melon, a melon that was also new to me. The contrast between the salty ham and the cool succulent melon is what makes this dish a classic.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My second course was duck confit. Confit is a method for cooking and preserving duck, goose, or turkey (usually of legs, the breasts are served in other styles) or of pork in which the meat is completely covered in its own rendered fat and cooked over low heat. It is then allowed to cool and solidify, sealing the meat in and preserving it. I had always wanted to try it, but never having had a gallon or so of rendered duck fat to work with, I had to wait until it appeared on a restaurant menu. The meat was very tender, moist and flavorful; and less greasy than duck often is. If I ever raise ducks, I’ll know what to do with the surplus.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(And as an aside, confit of chicken or duck gizzards, sliced and sautéed served over salad greens and a light vinaigrette makes a </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">salade aux gesiers</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, a common and delicious first course in </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">France</span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And here are the fava beans (</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">habas</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">) with Serrano ham. Sautéed vegetables with ham were a common first course on menus. One of the best was tender artichoke hearts sautéed with crisp bits of ham.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tapas </span></i><st1:state w:st="on"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">del</span></i></st1:state><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Mar – </span></i><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tarragona</span></i></st1:city></st1:place></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One evening in </span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tarragona</span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> we set out to find a bite to eat, and ended up (after an interminable walk) in the</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">fisherman’s mall, at L' Àncora II, where the specialty is seafood tapas. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The selection is remarkable. Translated from top to bottom: seafood paella, black rice (with squid ink), rice with lobster, green salad, monkfish salad, octopus salad, salmon carpaccio, cod carpaccio, stuffed mussels, steamed mussels, mussels marinara, fried small squid, small squid a la Romana, fried small prawns, clams marinara, grilled clams, grilled razor clams, grilled large prawns, grilled cuttlefish, octopus with onions, spicy potatoes, salt codfish fritters, monkfish and hake croquettes, grouper trunk (?), salt cod salad </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/my-country-my-kitchen/bacalao-escaixada-recipe/index.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(escaixada)</span></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, anchovies, eggplant, onion, peppers, and tomato on toast, prawn cocktail, and anchovies in vinegar. </span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WFvOjTB_-vGlNIG5qV9tvhJ9WT2Bu1q0GuCoG4xFYTLP_YrXMJ1qn6KWWVrftLYarXuuLh0JimZmfn1yKXX3kAkAiZFxpIL7rPi-j1oLO9-7byInxnye-QMFq-QoK6JlmV8cD1f2csZi/s1600/IMG_7254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8WFvOjTB_-vGlNIG5qV9tvhJ9WT2Bu1q0GuCoG4xFYTLP_YrXMJ1qn6KWWVrftLYarXuuLh0JimZmfn1yKXX3kAkAiZFxpIL7rPi-j1oLO9-7byInxnye-QMFq-QoK6JlmV8cD1f2csZi/s400/IMG_7254.JPG" width="400" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And more… I’m guessing about what the pictures include: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">croquets, m</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ussels marinara,</span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">small prawns, octopus, </span></div><br />
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<div style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">large prawns, seafood salad, anchovies, peppers and etc. on toast, anchovies in vinegar….</span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">seafood salads (octopus, imitation crab meat, mussels, and ?)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="text-align: right;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">…and sardines in marinara sauce ?</span></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had salt cod fritters, grilled peppers, fried eggplant and a bottle of local wine. And wanted more, but a large mid day meal and good judgment restrained my wife… and she restrained me.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><br />
</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Boquerones</span></i><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> - </span></i><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Barcelona</span></i></st1:city></st1:place></span><br />
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</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These crisp tender fingerlings were one of the choices for a first course on the </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">menú </span><st1:state w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">del</span></st1:state><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> día </span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">at the </span><i><a href="http://www.barkeno.es/restaurant/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Restaurante Barkeno</span></a></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> near the Plaza de Catalunya in </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Barcelona</span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. I was surprised to discover that </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">boquerones</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> are anchovies, for the fish were very mild with little fishy anchovy flavor. Simply rolled lightly in flour and fried, we ate them whole, tender bones and all. Delicious.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"></span></i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Café con leche, buttered toast and jam was our usual breakfast, but these sandwiches, were a great change. Hotel breakfast buffets, at 4.50 to 9.00 €, ranged from OK to good, but local cafes always had better coffee and fresh toast for half the price or less.</span><br />
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<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Fast food paella – Everywhere</span> <span class="Apple-style-span">(</span></span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unfortunately)</span><br />
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We first experienced fast food paella in a <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Lisbon</st1:place></st1:city> mall… the menu pictures looked tempting, but better judgment prevailed and we soon discovered that this was McPaella, factory made, frozen and microwave ready, and not cheap. Is it good? I don’t know, but I do know that it’s not what I went to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Spain</st1:place></st1:country-region> to eat.<br />
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The distributor is<a href="http://www.paellador.es/"> Paellador</a>, the 352<sup>nd</sup> largest franchise in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> with 2000 outlets internationally.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span></span></span> They also make frozen pizza, sandwiches, tapas, and Italian food. And they have outlets the <st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Mexico</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Venezuela</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, in Las Condes. You can try it for yourself. Yum.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Eating%20Iberian.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title="">[1]</a> </span></span></span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Paell</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">ador introduce su franquicia en México. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Tormo.com. On line at</span></span></div>htttormo.com/noticias/3153/Paellador_introduce_su_franquicia_en_Mexico and Franchise Europe Top 500: Paellador. On line at http://www.franchisedirect.co.uk/top500/paellador/38/321/<br />
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</div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-45220617932263240772010-08-24T12:21:00.008-04:002011-06-21T11:14:45.870-04:00Chilean Quinoa<span style="color: black;">In 1551, 10 years after taking possession of <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Chile</st2:place></st2:country-region> for Spain Pedro de Valdivia wrote King Charles V concerning the new colony:</span><br />
<blockquote>I can tell you truthfully of the goodness of this country….. cattle like those of <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st2:country-region></st2:place> [llamas, vicunas] prosper, with wool that drags on the ground; it abounds in all the foods the Indians plant for their subsistence, such as corn, potatoes, quinoa, <i>madi</i>, chili and beans. The people are large, tame, friendly and white, and of attractive faces, men as well as women, all dressed in wool in their style, although the clothing is somewhat crude.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(all translations mine)</span>. </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal">This was the earliest mention of quinoa, (or <i>quinua,</i> from the Quechua) <span class="apple-style-span"><i><span style="color: black;">Chenopodium quinua,</span></i><span style="color: black;"> the “mother grain” of the Incas, and although <st2:city w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Valdivia</st2:place></st2:city> wrote enthusiastically, if not always truthfully (the native Mapuche were neither friendly nor tame—they killed him two years later), of the country’s blessings, he didn’t mention quinoa again. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: right;"><a href="http://www.cancosamarka.cl/quinoa.jpg">Quinoa. Photo: Cancosa</a></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWA9jtuRu46iCP7g2edtPK2YUTZ2fz64400sYEMz5qzMNnuqN7hH2jiSbduevwR5AgImZBvnu7yhfu7nXpV3iqPiU9OWMHM2rlGgug6S_xcnGGXjURO9MNGfQ0V_UZCsIUKVC55Lg1SnD/s1600/quinoa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWWA9jtuRu46iCP7g2edtPK2YUTZ2fz64400sYEMz5qzMNnuqN7hH2jiSbduevwR5AgImZBvnu7yhfu7nXpV3iqPiU9OWMHM2rlGgug6S_xcnGGXjURO9MNGfQ0V_UZCsIUKVC55Lg1SnD/s400/quinoa.jpg" width="252" /></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Quinoa is not a grain; member of the grass family like the wheat, barley, oats and rice familiar to the conquistadors, or the American maize (corn) they found and readily adopted. It is an “herb,” a leafy plant with no woody stem and abundant small seeds, unlike any plant cultivated for seeds in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Spain</st2:place></st2:country-region>. While the conquistadors ate it, comparing it to rice, it remained stigmatized as low status “Indian food,” and did not become part of the colonist’s agriculture.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></span></div>Today, 450 years later, quinoa is finally achieving recognition beyond indigenous communities. And while it has been subject to the usual levels of marketing hype (at left) quinoa’s high levels of protein, balanced amino acid composition, pleasant taste, and easy cooking qualities have made it popular with both the health food and foodie communities. And its potential for improving diet in high altitude and dry environments has led the Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN to name it as “one of the crops destined to offer food security in the next century.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://www.quinoasuperdiet.com/?hop=peria1949#back">Quinoa Super Diet</a><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;">Quinoa origins <o:p></o:p></span></i></b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Photo: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quinoa">Quinoa Wikipedia</a></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQ7nPqIie1GaVowYrmduLir4KkhuakmNqjWpUqhU0a8VZjLpGnJfnjnBaRWx4q77Xl7HVZzpLEJ_qvPHWao7x65yPxU6Ye5WYwpnzPxYcqqnvnCFXgp1TDOcuMbcN3XhZ2a-q6it430C4/s1600/New+Picture+(1).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJQ7nPqIie1GaVowYrmduLir4KkhuakmNqjWpUqhU0a8VZjLpGnJfnjnBaRWx4q77Xl7HVZzpLEJ_qvPHWao7x65yPxU6Ye5WYwpnzPxYcqqnvnCFXgp1TDOcuMbcN3XhZ2a-q6it430C4/s320/New+Picture+(1).bmp" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">The earliest evidence of quinoa in archaeological sties is from </span></span><st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Peru</st2:place></st2:country-region> in levels thought to date to about 7,000 years ago. In northern Chile quinoa seeds were being collected by 5,200<span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span>BP (before present), and they were found in an archaeological site on a tributary of the Rio Maipo near Santiago from about 3,000 BP. <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Quinoa was attractive to hunting and gathering people both because of its nutritional value and because it could be stored without suffering losses from rodents and insects: quinoa seeds have a bitter soap-like saponin coating which makes them unpalatable unless they have been washed. </span></span>D<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">omestication probably occurred by 3,500 years ago in the area surrounding <st2:place w:st="on">Lake Titicaca</st2:place> where the plant’s greatest genetic diversity is found.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Quinoa, corn and potatoes were the principal crops of the Inca and their predecessor from <st2:city w:st="on">Columbia</st2:city> south to northern <st2:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st2:country-region> and <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:country-region w:st="on">Argentina</st2:country-region></st2:place>. Quinoa’s remarkable ability, shared with potatoes, to grow at altitudes over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) made it the dominant seed crop at high altitudes. In <st2:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st2:country-region> it was grown from high altitudes to sea level, and from dry northern valleys to wet <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:placename w:st="on">Chiloe</st2:placename> <st2:placetype w:st="on">Island</st2:placetype></st2:place>, off the south-central coast. This great adaptability to differing climates and altitudes is the result of indigenous farmers’ selection of the most promising varieties for their particular location, producing thousands of local varieties in five major categories: Chilean sea level quinoas adapted to low elevations, long days and high rainfall; Andean valley quinoas that grow at 2,000 to 4,000 meters; subtropical quinoas from the eastern Bolivian Andes; <i>salar</i> quinoas adapted to soils with high salt content; and Antiplanic varieties from around Lake Titicaca at 3500-4000 feet which are adapted to a short growing season and are frost resistant.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">While quinoa continued to be cultivated by many indigenous Andean communities after the conquest, in Chile constant war with the Spanish </span></span>south of the Mapuche frontier <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">disrupted the traditional Mapuche way of life and cultivation of many traditional foods, including maize and quinoa, was greatly reduced; replaced by wheat and other European crops<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> In the 1620s the Spanish soldier</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 13pt;">, </span><span style="color: black;">Francisco Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán, whose account of this captivity by the Mapuche is full of discussions of the food he was given, mentions quinoa only once, when he was given bags of “toasted corn flour, mixed with <i>quinua.</i>”</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> By the 19<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century it is rarely mentioned except as an historical oddity: as in “Quinoa still existed in <st2:place w:st="on">Chiloe</st2:place> in the year 1875”<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> Even Mapuche chief Pascual Coña’s dictated <i>Indigenous Araucanian Life and Culture in the Second Half of the 19<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> Century,</i> which provides an extensive discussion of Mapuche food and agriculture, mentions quinoa only once: “quinoa in olden times replaced cereals.”</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">By 1997, only 435 acres of quinoa were under cultivation in <st2:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st2:country-region> (in the highlands near <st2:city w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Iquique</st2:place></st2:city>) down 30% from 20 years earlier.</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 13pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">While quinoa cultivation was declining in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Chile</st2:place></st2:country-region>, it continued (and continues) be cultivated in Indigenous Peruvian and Bolivian communities, and was observed with interest by a number of European visitors. In 1838, <i>Curtis’s Botanical Magazine </i>published an article on quinoa, including the drawing to the right, a botanical description, discussion of its varieties and their uses, and its introduction to <st2:place w:st="on">Europe</st2:place>:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41_keTRnYJpj9cOG34g30Z2Hftga7ciZ1HWMeIllrxO6pLETS9zxnCJtdTUynWuDjG4WwfMQ0eBeHg0xyWzKBhhbthSqTEbFFb5Qe4X6LM4WYoooYpzilAI_bhXnQIhg1h0DkYviXOLDK/s1600/Qinoa+curtis's.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41_keTRnYJpj9cOG34g30Z2Hftga7ciZ1HWMeIllrxO6pLETS9zxnCJtdTUynWuDjG4WwfMQ0eBeHg0xyWzKBhhbthSqTEbFFb5Qe4X6LM4WYoooYpzilAI_bhXnQIhg1h0DkYviXOLDK/s320/Qinoa+curtis's.bmp" width="210" /></a><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span></span></div><blockquote><span class="apple-style-span"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Feuill%C3%A9e"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">Father Feuillée</span></a>, in his travels in <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st2:country-region></st2:place> and Chili, seems first to have brought this plant to notice. Dombey, in 1779, sent seeds to Paris, but they did not succeed; nor are we aware that it was know in a living state in Europe till within these last few years, when it was in cultivation first in Paris, and since in England. Mr. Lambert directed public attention to it in 1834: and we are indebted to the <st2:placename w:st="on">Glasgow</st2:placename> <st2:placetype w:st="on">Botanic garden</st2:placetype> to John McLeal, Esq., of <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:city w:st="on">Lima</st2:city></st2:place> for seeds which have increased most abundantly in the course of a single year.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"> <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">It was also discussed by Dr. J.J Von Tschudi,</span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> who visited in 1838-42. He noted that while only a little wheat and barley were cultivated by Andean communities: <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WavhizIMOY_TYG8WWoB_tQQHNu7tG1CHXCvtJ4VGeOsW31TzNHtov09Z5x5lRLhyKkkFcnEDqGRfHZxWVOaZh9eK7bHvJBo0QZ7zyOGs0Zljr8IF53xZlyJNGmNtvnvIks0xDL_KwfnM/s1600/QuinoaV.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_WavhizIMOY_TYG8WWoB_tQQHNu7tG1CHXCvtJ4VGeOsW31TzNHtov09Z5x5lRLhyKkkFcnEDqGRfHZxWVOaZh9eK7bHvJBo0QZ7zyOGs0Zljr8IF53xZlyJNGmNtvnvIks0xDL_KwfnM/s400/QuinoaV.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Quinoa continued to receive notice throughout the 19<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> and 20<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century in books and journals including <i><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=eZpJAAAAYAAJ&q=quinoa&dq=quinoa&hl=en&ei=2AhsTMPkCoP6lwf1lKTgAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CC4Q6AEwATg8">Popular Science Monthly</a></i> (1893), <i><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=1J9-AAAAMAAJ&q=quinoa&dq=quinoa&hl=en&ei=wglsTKLGJcSqlAe0h6DZDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CC4Q6AEwATgK">National Geographic Magazine</a></i> (1916), </span></span><i><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=g15CAAAAYAAJ&q=quinoa&dq=quinoa&hl=en&ei=VQtsTI7xC4GBlAfB3sDQAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CE0Q6AEwBzha">The Encyclopaedia of Gardening</a></span></i><span style="color: black;"> (1931),<i> <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=MD1MAAAAYAAJ&q=quinoa&dq=quinoa&hl=en&ei=pAxsTL2LJsHflgeYyOVU&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CFQQ6AEwCTiqAQ">The Farm Quarterly</a> </i>(1950), and etc., Then in the 1980’s quinoa imported from Peru and Bolivia began to appear in US health food and specialty shops, and to be widely discussed in magazines and books. In 1986 an article entitled “Quinoa, a Legacy of the <st2:place w:st="on">Andes</st2:place>, Arrives” extolling it’s virtues and providing recipes appeared in the <i>New York Times; <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">a sure sign that it had arrived</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;">Today quinoa is widely available in North America through the original importer <a href="http://www.quinoa.net/106.html">The Quinoa Corporation</a> and others, and is being grown in <a href="http://www.quinoa.com/">Canada</a>. It is also available in the <a href="http://www.incaorganics.com/Where%20To%20Buy.htm">UK and Australia and in Europe. <o:p></o:p></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUUOMukdG1hy6_xdZoAJE_Vd7FHCCCm9bzZa3kQrVwBDR4Jid83BfFOElW8b-yYDRwN-RVcpEoquAOmzG1e-jzafX7CWt79D6PTvxVw78viFJIzcmk4In0NsPe8K_mivkL3PZqS3Rnf_7/s1600/Trad$26Red.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUUOMukdG1hy6_xdZoAJE_Vd7FHCCCm9bzZa3kQrVwBDR4Jid83BfFOElW8b-yYDRwN-RVcpEoquAOmzG1e-jzafX7CWt79D6PTvxVw78viFJIzcmk4In0NsPe8K_mivkL3PZqS3Rnf_7/s400/Trad$26Red.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Quinoa Corporaton’s <a href="http://www.quinoa.net/145/index.html">Ancient Harvest</a> brand<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;">Back in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Chile</st2:place></st2:country-region></span></i></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Beginning in the late 1990s, interest in quinoa has grown in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Chile</st2:place></st2:country-region>. In 2007 quinoa was being produced on 3,640 acres, over 90% by indigenous Aymara in the area of Colchane in the far north, an 800% increase over 1997</span>. Quinoa is also cultivated on a small scale in the central valley south of <st2:city w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Santiago</st2:place></st2:city>. Most producers there are elderly, and much of the production is for home consumption, but a little over half is sold regionally or is destined for European and North American markets. <br />
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<span style="color: black;">In <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st2:country-region></st2:place>’s Region IX, The </span>Araucanía, quinoa (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">dawe</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">dahue</i> in the Mapuche language) historically formed a part of the Mapuche cultivation system and diet, and as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">muday</i> (quinoa drink) and food for animals. Some Mapuche women continue to grow it in small gardens interplanted with corn, beans, and potatoes. During the last decade<span style="color: black;"> the Chilean Ministry of Agriculture’s southern development center CET Sur has encouraged seed sharing, recovery of traditional uses, and innovations for new uses (including interchanges between Mapuche women and Chilean chefs), and has promoted organic production of quinoa in rural and indigenous communities.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span> <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;">CET Sur’s pullication <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.cetsur.org/?p=226">La kinwa mapuche, un aporte a la alimentación</a><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[15]</span></span></span></span></span> </i>(<i>Mapuche Quinoa, a Contribution to Diet</i>)</span><span style="color: black;"> includes Mapuche women’s comments about their experiences in the program:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I have been eating quinoa since I was a little girl, prepared with milk and sugar, and also as <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/10/mote-con-huesillos-chiles-favorite.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><i>mote</i></span></a>…. but during the last five years I have continued experimenting and have developed many dishes; main dishes, stews, fried foods, sweet and salted beads, cookies and many deserts. I have also made spreads to use in place of butter, salads with the leaves, and have fried the seed heads when they are tender. Zundia Pepí</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">…I only knew the most traditional uses of quinoa that I heard about from my grandmother, but I never ate it as a girl because I left the village. But when I came back… I began to love plants, flowers, birds and animals. In 2000 I started to develop dishes with quinoa; desserts, salads and fried dishes and then I thought that instead of buying pizza I could make my own creation… Now I can recommend it; you make a dough to which you add cooked quinoa, being careful that the seeds are soft and not dry. You spread the dough in a pan, calculating that it shouldn’t be very thick and you put it in the oven. The filling is made with various vegetables, with egg, white and black quinoa seeds, and grated cheese. Eris Cornado</span></blockquote><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizUgJvIY2ja13CVHUJCXLk0wH90sEmjxV2OrB6BhNvOL4gyBdcsUE4hPC6IdrwvG1poM8H4JeVELycv2WGUCjLgDTq48bWMQxEQWfLozowyERucxFcMmoW2ZJTSwl7nTYSUezwpqZqU4Fy/s1600/IMG_6750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizUgJvIY2ja13CVHUJCXLk0wH90sEmjxV2OrB6BhNvOL4gyBdcsUE4hPC6IdrwvG1poM8H4JeVELycv2WGUCjLgDTq48bWMQxEQWfLozowyERucxFcMmoW2ZJTSwl7nTYSUezwpqZqU4Fy/s320/IMG_6750.JPG" width="219" /></a><span style="color: black;"><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Quinoa is now widely available in <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:city w:st="on">Santiago</st2:city></st2:place> supermarkets and <i><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/05/at-tostaduria.html">tostadurias</a></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">,</i> both as washed seeds and as flour. Prices range from around 3,750 to 4,700 pesos/kg ($3.40-4.25 US/lb.), and it appears occasionally in restaurants—especially vegetarian and up-scale Peruvian. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;">Quinoa and nutrition</span></i></b><br />
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<blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Quinoa is the basis of the diet of children of the altiplano. It is a blessing and great privilege. Only now is the nutritional value of this Andean cereal recognized, with its 18% of easily assimilated protein, balanced amino acid composition, and iron, calcium, phosphorus, fiber, vitamin E and B complex content Although it is now being replaced by rice and pasta, quinoa is still present in the Aymara diet almost every day. It is the reason that the nutritional status of Aymara children is good, with very few recently reported cases of malnutrition. Arturo Kirberg B. MD, <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:city w:st="on">Iquique</st2:city>, <st2:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st2:country-region></st2:place>. “The health of the Aymara child”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_edn16" name="_ednref16" title="">[16]</a> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"><o:p> </o:p></span> </span></blockquote><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuJhy2rP29BdNF0n_i8mltG9BJpG3MgtXUBGDWUm0sDwcEj-XeRK4Ns2__qi-X3eL4m3S9TPRfI67nGC6gIzlMKlLi4Ov23YruIiZ8X5NJIn8hxzY5JgbZbUbOrrK5VV1vTRP__3lzjXS/s1600/New+Picture+(5).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuJhy2rP29BdNF0n_i8mltG9BJpG3MgtXUBGDWUm0sDwcEj-XeRK4Ns2__qi-X3eL4m3S9TPRfI67nGC6gIzlMKlLi4Ov23YruIiZ8X5NJIn8hxzY5JgbZbUbOrrK5VV1vTRP__3lzjXS/s400/New+Picture+(5).bmp" width="328" /></a></div>Quinoa is higher in protein, with from 8 to 22%, that comparable cereals (wheat, corn, rice, etc.), and the protein is of high quality, with a better balance of essential amino acids. It has high levels of lysine and methionine, which tend to be low in most plant protgein, and is a good source of dietary fiber, vitamins and minerals The UDSA food values tables (via <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quinoa">Wikipedia</a>) provide the data at right.<br />
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<b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;">Recipes</span></i></b><b><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Most quinoa you are likely to encounter will have been washed to remove the bitter saponin coating, but if not, it should be rinsed under a stream of water in a fine strainer or in a pot until the rinse water runs clear. Quinoa is cooked like rice: 1 part quinoa and 2 parts water are brought to a boil and then simmered 15 to 20 minutes until the water is absorbed. And like rice it can be sautéed in oil first for pilafs. The flavor is slightly nutty but otherwise relatively neutral, so it is really combined with other flavors. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;">There are hundreds of quinoa recipes on the internet, but for a start try <a href="http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/health/series/recipes_for_health/quinoa/index.html?scp=1&sq=quinoa%20&st=cse">Recipes for Health: Quinoa</a> from the New York Times, <a href="http://www.cookingquinoa.net/category/quinoa-recipes/">Cooking Quinoa</a> from a US mail order source, <a href="http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/search.do?keywords=quinoa">Good Food</a> from the BBC, or <a href="http://www.quinoa.net/181.html">Quinoa Recipies</a> from the Quinoa Corporation. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Meanwhile, here are two Chilean quinoa recipes, an Aymara quinoa pudding from the cookbook </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://www.fucoa.gob.cl/archivos_subida/doc/alimentacion_indigena.pdf">Cultura y alimentación indígena en Chile</a> (Indigenous Culture and Diet in Chile).</span></span></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoE1XZPtERajlfKxiO1MoccvT4YOAvNtcG6Nb2-R8SSSGYr8oA1dersJm_IR-YTxrZir3Mwivol8QnpuhhsCxSdv3_RDs41jhzrULPuCZm7Zd0Tw9akRu-byR785AW5Mbk7w8toPZsNZZ/s1600/New+Picture+(6).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhoE1XZPtERajlfKxiO1MoccvT4YOAvNtcG6Nb2-R8SSSGYr8oA1dersJm_IR-YTxrZir3Mwivol8QnpuhhsCxSdv3_RDs41jhzrULPuCZm7Zd0Tw9akRu-byR785AW5Mbk7w8toPZsNZZ/s400/New+Picture+(6).bmp" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<span style="color: black;">…and a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">New Chilean</i> recipe for from the bilingual cookbook <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.prochile.cl/regiones_pro/archivos/region_VI/recetario_2009%5b1%5d.pdf">Sabores de Chile para el mundo</a> (Chilean Flavors for the World). </i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Click to enlarge.</span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7yGTOhlf5DAPG8cM1WSUIXb-5WCjbkZugLPMdpBiaqCquYAjGwk_MGENVAwDjZnbZwLPwtfaiODWVWr5Q0NjsVNEXpDf_v-s1TgsMh4H9f-zq9SO5duGSzyje3GNobsRgb9rUedo1EWZV/s1600/New+Picture+(4).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="449" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7yGTOhlf5DAPG8cM1WSUIXb-5WCjbkZugLPMdpBiaqCquYAjGwk_MGENVAwDjZnbZwLPwtfaiODWVWr5Q0NjsVNEXpDf_v-s1TgsMh4H9f-zq9SO5duGSzyje3GNobsRgb9rUedo1EWZV/s640/New+Picture+(4).bmp" width="640" /></a></div><br />
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<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Toribio Medina, José [editor]. 1929,. Cartas de Pedro de Valdivia. Sevilla: M. Carmona Velázquez. </span>P. 223 On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008846">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008846</a> Note that <i>madi is<b> </b>Madia sativa,</i> an oil seed cultivated by the Mapuche., <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Tagle, Blanca and M. Teresa Planella. 2002. La quinoa en la zona central de chile, supervivencia de una tradición prehispánica. Santiago: Editorial Iku p 43 as quoted in <i>Cocinas Mestizas de Chile: La Olla Deleitosa,</i> Sonia Montecino Aguirre, Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombino, 2004. p. 70. </span>On line at <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #0e774a;"><a href="http://www.precolombino.cl/zip_pdf.php?id=1905">www.precolombino.cl/zip_pdf.php?id=1905</a> </span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> Jacobsen, Sven-Erik. 2000. Quinoa – Research and Development at the <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:placename w:st="on">International</st2:placename> <st2:placename w:st="on">Potato</st2:placename> <st2:placetype w:st="on">Center</st2:placetype></st2:place>. On line at <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #0e774a;">www.ci<b>potato</b>.org/publications/pdf/002670.pdf</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> Kolata, Alan L. 2009 Quinoa: Production, Consumption and Social Value <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">in Historical Context. Latin American Studies Association 2009 Congress Paper Archive. On line at <a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/lasa.international.pitt.edu/members/congress-papers/.../KolataAlanL.pdf">lasa.international.pitt.edu/members/congress-papers/.../KolataAlanL.pdf</a> , and Planella O, María Teresa, Luis E. Cornejo B and Blanca Tagle<i> 2005. </i><i><span lang="ES-CL">A.</span></i><span lang="ES-CL">Alero las Morrenas 1: evidencias de cultígenos. Chungara, Revista de Antropología Chilena. 37(1):57-74. </span>On line at <a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717...script=sci_arttext%C2%A0">www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717...script=sci_arttext </a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: x-small;">entre cazadores recolectores de finales del<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: x-small;">período arcaico en Chile central.<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Valencia-Chamorro S.A. 2003.: Quinoa. </span>In: Caballero B.: Encyclopedia of Food Science and Nutrition as quoted in Jancurová M., Minarovičová L., Dandár A. 2009. Quinoa – a review. Czech J. Food Sci., 27:71–79. On line at <a href="http://www.agriculturejournals.cz/publicFiles/06732.pdf">www.agriculturejournals.cz/publicFiles/06732.pdf</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Torrejón, Fernando and Marco Cisternas. 2002. Alteraciones del paisaje ecológico araucano por la asimilación mapuche de la agroganadería hispano-mediterránea (siglos XVI y XVII). Revista Chilena de Historia Natural 75:729-736. </span>On line at <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #0e774a;"><a href="http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0716...script=sci_arttext">www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0716...script=sci_arttext</a> </span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Núñez de Pineda y Bascuñán,<b><i> </i></b>Francisco. 1948. El Cautiverio Feliz. Biblioteca de escritores Chilenos. Zig-Zag. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/78039514323481684765679/index.htm">http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/78039514323481684765679/index.htm</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Cavada, Francisco J., 1914. Chiloé y los Chilotes. Revista Chilena de Historia y Geografía, 7-14. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008648">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008648</a><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Wilhelm de Moesbach, Ernesto. 1936 Vida y costumbres de los indigenas araucanas en la segunda mitad del siglo xix (presentadas en la autobiografía del indígena Pascual Coña). Santiago de Chile: Imprenta Universitario Estado 63. p. 102 On line at </span><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008879"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.memoriachilena.cl//temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0008879</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> Delatorre-Herrera, J. 2003. Current Use of Quinoa in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Chile</st2:place></st2:country-region>. Food Reviews International 19(1-2)155-165.<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a> Chenopodium Quinoa. Useful Quinoa (3641). 1838. Curtis’s Botanical Magazine. <st2:city w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">London</st2:place></st2:city>. 12(new series)<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn12"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span></span></a> Tschudi, Dr. J. J. von. 1847. Travels in <st2:country-region w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">Peru</st2:place></st2:country-region>, during the years 1838-1842. Thomasina Ross, translator. <st2:state w:st="on"><st2:place w:st="on">New York</st2:place></st2:state>: Wiley and Putnam. p. 257. On line at <a href="http://books.google.cl/books?id=J6UaAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Travels+in+peru&hl=en&cd=1#v=onepage&q=&f=false">http://books.google.cl/books?id=J6UaAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Travels+in+peru&hl=en&cd=1#v=onepage&q=&f=false</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn13"><div class="note" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[13]</span></span></span></a> Fabricant, <st2:place w:st="on"><st2:city w:st="on">Florence</st2:city></st2:place>. The New York Times; Living Desk<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="note" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">February 12, 1986, Wednesday Late City Final Edition, Section C, Page 1, Column 1 <o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn14"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[14]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Bécares, Diana Alfonso and Didier Bazile.2009. La quinoa como parte de los sistemas agrícolas en Chile: 3 regiones y 3 systemas. </span>Revista Geografíca de Valparaíso 42:61-72, on line at <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #0e774a;"><a href="http://www.rgv.ucv.cl/Articulo%2042-6.pdf">www.rgv.ucv.cl/Articulo%2042-6.pdf</a> ,</span></span> and <st2:place w:st="on"><st1:sn w:st="on">Thomer</st1:sn> <st1:sn w:st="on">I.</st1:sn></st2:place>, Max and Juan Sepúlveda A. 2005. <span lang="ES-CL">Experiencia de investigación participante en la recuperación de la kinwa mapuche. Serie de Publicacionse CETSUR No. 7. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.cetsur.org/.../experiencia-de-investigacion-participativa-en-la-recuperacion-de-la-kinwa-mapuche.pdf">www.cetsur.org/.../experiencia-de-investigacion-participativa-en-la-recuperacion-de-la-kinwa-mapuche.pdf</a> Note: <span style="color: black;">CET Sur is “Southern Center for Education and Technology for Development”</span></span></div></div><div id="edn15"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref15" name="_edn15" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[15]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Thomet, Max and Juan Sepúlveda A. 2005 La kinwa mapuche, un aporte a la alimentación. Serie De Publicaciones Cetsur, No. 8 On line at </span><a href="http://www.cetsur.org/?p=226"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.cetsur.org/?p=226</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn16" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Grains/Quinoa%20blog.doc#_ednref16" name="_edn16" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[16]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Kirberg B, Arturo. 2006. La salud del niño ayma</span>ra. Revista chilena de pediatría. 77(6):608-609. On line at <a href="http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0370-41062006000600009">http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S0370-41062006000600009</a></span> <o:p></o:p></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-83462221793421479882010-08-02T15:23:00.009-04:002011-09-27T14:52:40.684-03:00Curanto: Chiloé’s ancient “clambake”<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIh3avKjVsvvLkL_CpsOPOa0NzS-dHgqSRsx-03skdBJzgLwklYX6NBd4LCpThMhgEqMzmAbas5elosx-lBktU3GAeE5ayk_ol3gW1sjaUGDeFei21-HjK3ieMVCo8QLgU9sryAGqtMDjb/s1600/Resize+of+ilust+curanto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIh3avKjVsvvLkL_CpsOPOa0NzS-dHgqSRsx-03skdBJzgLwklYX6NBd4LCpThMhgEqMzmAbas5elosx-lBktU3GAeE5ayk_ol3gW1sjaUGDeFei21-HjK3ieMVCo8QLgU9sryAGqtMDjb/s1600/Resize+of+ilust+curanto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIh3avKjVsvvLkL_CpsOPOa0NzS-dHgqSRsx-03skdBJzgLwklYX6NBd4LCpThMhgEqMzmAbas5elosx-lBktU3GAeE5ayk_ol3gW1sjaUGDeFei21-HjK3ieMVCo8QLgU9sryAGqtMDjb/s320/Resize+of+ilust+curanto.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">By 6,000 years ago, and perhaps as early as 10,000 BP<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[1]</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span>(before present) Chiloé families did something they still do today; wait for the curanto to be ready. Curanto, a pit oven and the meal of shellfish and other foods cooked in it, is amog the most caracteristic and certainly the oldest dish in the cuisine of Chiloé, the large island of south central Chile. In fact, Chiloé’s curanto may be the oldest “recipe” that still graces the world’s tables—at least if we ignore such generic things as “roast meat.”<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span> <br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The evidence is the “feature” (archaeologese for a non-movable artifact) below: a 6,000 year old <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> from the archaeological site of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Puente Quilo</i> on the north coast, west of the city of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ancud</st1:place></st1:city> (<span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/stuart.jim1/EatingChilean?authkey=Gv1sRgCMX6l6j8uYrf0AE#5409169094100416322"><span lang="EN-US">map</span></a></span>). It was found in a shell mound along with the remains of many of the inhabitants’ meals: “bones of nutria, sea lions, sea birds, fish and whale, as well as hooves of the southern <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pudú</i> [a small species of deer]. And of course, many remains of shells of scallops, snails, Chilean abalone, surf clams, mussels, hard shell clams, and razor clams.”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></span> </span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO0Q-Tfp77w7BN1qg9_gtvNBjE_CS3moMcmytU86PfaEjbV5MsJiEjIWFALXimHFGqvVr3ECT97r6g5A0Q5z-584oiZWl9qeHRa1JlMCeW4-lddybhF54uwNP8vg18xl5wDiLlaRxmBL6L/s1600/New+Picture.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO0Q-Tfp77w7BN1qg9_gtvNBjE_CS3moMcmytU86PfaEjbV5MsJiEjIWFALXimHFGqvVr3ECT97r6g5A0Q5z-584oiZWl9qeHRa1JlMCeW4-lddybhF54uwNP8vg18xl5wDiLlaRxmBL6L/s400/New+Picture.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Curanto</i>, is from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">kurantu </i>meaning “stony ground”<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span> in the Mapuche language, but the early <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curantos</i> were made thousands of years before Mapuche speakers, the agricultural Huilliche, arrived in Chiloé. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Curantos </i>originated with an earlier hunting, fishing and gathering culture, ancestral to the <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.andaman.org/BOOK/chapter54/text-Chono/chono.htm"><span lang="EN-US">Chono</span></a></span>, the canoe Indians of the archipelago south of Chiloé.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Making <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Vicente Pérez Rosales’, a Chilean politician, merchant, miner, diplomat<span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span>and organizer of German colonization of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>, described (with evident distaste) a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto </i>as he observed it, probably in the 1850s. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">[Fish] and those inexhaustible banks of exquisite shellfish of all types that the low tides expose were, along with potatoes and fava beans, the larder that sustained [the Chilotes]. Even the means of preparing those delicacies was purely Indian, from the time of the conquest. In a hole in the ground full of stones heated by a fire are placed shellfish, fish, meat (if there is any), cheese, and potatoes, and without delay, everything is covered with monstrous <i>pangui</i> [fern] leaves, and finished by covering with sod and earth to keep the steam from escaping. A quarter of an hour later, one saw the whole family, with their obligatory escort of dogs and pigs, surround the smoky horn of plenty in which each one put his hand and ate, sucking his finger’s, until satisfied.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pérez’s distaste is not shared by Chilean newspaper editor and publisher, Recaredo S. Tornero who, writing in the 1870s, provides a more sympathetic description:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><o:p><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Nalca</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">, the plant used to seal the </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">curanto</span>.</i></o:p></div><blockquote><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZfHSlJIDnPoolAiL0_EbbNgTG_Goc9agHcZrxunP2UpepzUyOTN6Gf5ZwhZDcQTpVmw2O_F-Nnk2yDMkbN0wE9QoD8uIjzwGY55EosqJYmQUlPSiO1AroVxgMoQr-5l7Ipl2KRt9bcEdh/s1600/IMG_2926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZfHSlJIDnPoolAiL0_EbbNgTG_Goc9agHcZrxunP2UpepzUyOTN6Gf5ZwhZDcQTpVmw2O_F-Nnk2yDMkbN0wE9QoD8uIjzwGY55EosqJYmQUlPSiO1AroVxgMoQr-5l7Ipl2KRt9bcEdh/s320/IMG_2926.JPG" width="320" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">[<i>Curanto</i>] is a type of banquet or feast that they celebrate in the fresh air, always at the edge of the beach, and very frequently since there is never a lack of pretext: now a wedding, a baptism, a sick person now out of danger, a good harvest, finishing a house, a happy return from the mountains, or simply the desire to have a good time. The <i>curanto</i> is prepared as follows: They select a site convenient to the edge of a pebbly beach and there they dig a hole a yard deep and equally wide and light a violent fire in the bottom. When the sides of the pit are well heated, it is a sign that it is ready to receive the infinite variety of foods that make up the curanto: potatoes, ham, pork, lamb, and all kinds of shellfish, mainly clams, of which there are an abundance, requiring no more work to obtain than scratching around in the sand. Then they cover the bottom and sides of the pit with leaves of fern or <i>nalca</i>, and continue adding the foods mentioned above in layers, separated one from another and with plenty of seasonings, until the pit is completely full. Then it is covered with another layer of rocks and while the delicious curanto cooks, the guests dance the famous <i>seguidilla</i>, a kind of <i>resbalosa</i> [folk dance, literally “slippery”] for two couples, accompanied by harp and guitars. It seems unnecessary to add that during all this potato <i>aguardiente</i> [liquor] and apple <i>chicha</i> [hard cider] preside over the entire fiesta.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2V4inGM_BBcmlu-JCqZPrM_XVbqs4ZALtH2MumRSB1Xo1y7VOKDBcdXEH3eotzhysXsc7vb0qIOPRBBZaNP4UvtX3875s96SQnRMMuCpth5vMogUaBVIpIRwqJF4sucudWkNWxTUO-WC/s1600/Vacaciones+227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="441" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht2V4inGM_BBcmlu-JCqZPrM_XVbqs4ZALtH2MumRSB1Xo1y7VOKDBcdXEH3eotzhysXsc7vb0qIOPRBBZaNP4UvtX3875s96SQnRMMuCpth5vMogUaBVIpIRwqJF4sucudWkNWxTUO-WC/s640/Vacaciones+227.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 10pt;">A <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> and spit roasted lamb for summer tourists in front of the market in Ancud, </span>.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So…. ready to make a curanto? Here<span id="goog_1778257436"></span> is a modern recipe, from the cookbook <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://www.fucoa.gob.cl/archivos_subida/doc/alimentacion_indigena.pdf"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US">Indigenous</span></i><span lang="EN-US"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Culture and Food in Chile</i></span></a></span>, p. 49):</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3RGGG90hOTN0-sWAMaPeBhCK3Jxig0VKpQ7VwxpsfR9cJMIR_svdzD3cb_zjfQcTE5KA8dIR8IpMxakUgCz8czAVgO3KfwBLTSon0MH3huLBgqJ6utDMR2UT7sjulofWb8HldKyGL54n/s1600/New+Picture+(1).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3RGGG90hOTN0-sWAMaPeBhCK3Jxig0VKpQ7VwxpsfR9cJMIR_svdzD3cb_zjfQcTE5KA8dIR8IpMxakUgCz8czAVgO3KfwBLTSon0MH3huLBgqJ6utDMR2UT7sjulofWb8HldKyGL54n/s400/New+Picture+(1).bmp" width="400" /></a></div><br />
If a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> for 30 seems a bit much, you can make <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polmay</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> in a pot, using cabbage leaves instead of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nalca</i>. And an advantage is that the good juices are retained, instead of going into the ground. <span lang="ES-CL"><a href="http://desertgourmets.com/recipes/curanto.html"><span lang="EN-US">Click here for a recipe</span></a></span>, including <i>milcaos</i> and <i>chaples </i>(potato breads).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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Below is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">polmay</i> from Camila’s kitchen in Castro, with a mug of the broth and a cup of wine. The darker colored patty is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">milcalo</i> and the light one is a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chapale.</i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlCF2sA6KZPvojq_79lupeGsot0OfRlwE5k9iCMZ3LRhTUqFeydZBRNstIaCg7mBRZAcjb2J7UrcqX708qH4yqwCGA9C5-4dRkclEGw5_AmN9DxbqQWGcitzYfveJBnkiQ3tSxuUAWSPC/s1600/Vacaciones+215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBlCF2sA6KZPvojq_79lupeGsot0OfRlwE5k9iCMZ3LRhTUqFeydZBRNstIaCg7mBRZAcjb2J7UrcqX708qH4yqwCGA9C5-4dRkclEGw5_AmN9DxbqQWGcitzYfveJBnkiQ3tSxuUAWSPC/s640/Vacaciones+215.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
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</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Other <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curantos</i><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Just when and where the practice of cooking in a pit with heated stones began, and how many times it was independently invented, is unclear, but the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Chilotes</i> were in good company. Alston V. Thoms, a Texas A&M archeologist who studies such things, tells us that the earliest European <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i>-like finds (he calls them “cook-stone features”) <span style="color: black;">date to the late Aurignacian (32–33,000 BP) in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>. “They tended to be basin shaped, about 1.5 m in diameter, and filled with heat-fractured river cobbles.” Similar features are found on all continents, but their purpose is seldom clear.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">[7</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">]</span></span></span></span><span style="color: black;"> The best know <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">recent</i> (geologically speaking, i.e. with in the last 10,000 years or so) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curantos</i> are found in the <st1:country-region w:st="on">Americas</st1:country-region> and in <st1:place w:st="on">Polynesia</st1:place>.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The earliest found in North American date to around 10,500 BP and by around 9,000 BP they are common in the US Pacific North West, South East and North East where they were used to bake tubers and bulbs of wild plants. In <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Mexico</st1:country-region></st1:place> and the South West US, they were associated with the roasting of sugary agave hearts; a practice which continues today, but now as the first step in making <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mescal</i>, the famed Mexican liquor.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gDJHebSN3K7RIUWq31UhqGKYQsbTTJDZI3N50Mhqvr_4PkuBKJy-55zalC7slLkAor4wtknanXG2tQmRCl29lohqnvPkiUDK7NcrP3EEC76faMcIfpiSG94q7RsuKRSrBUTS0tSDPOPt/s1600/IMG_0627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gDJHebSN3K7RIUWq31UhqGKYQsbTTJDZI3N50Mhqvr_4PkuBKJy-55zalC7slLkAor4wtknanXG2tQmRCl29lohqnvPkiUDK7NcrP3EEC76faMcIfpiSG94q7RsuKRSrBUTS0tSDPOPt/s400/IMG_0627.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;">An agave <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> in Oaxaca, Mexico.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwj9YijWTLohsFLWA_4M9uU00KY03gBigUCHsB1RxHwNnx5nIljaZE9NZaWWhrstKst5ZGHsFu2iYtnRifMcIXQwvlxojF8ZPz0yF0fOtdYglOxU_EMnSY6w8MyKdH_gH-nOFOTd8DGCsj/s1600/309926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwj9YijWTLohsFLWA_4M9uU00KY03gBigUCHsB1RxHwNnx5nIljaZE9NZaWWhrstKst5ZGHsFu2iYtnRifMcIXQwvlxojF8ZPz0yF0fOtdYglOxU_EMnSY6w8MyKdH_gH-nOFOTd8DGCsj/s400/309926.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Barbacoa de hoyo. </span></span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">photo: </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://www.panoramio.com/photo/309986"><span lang="EN-US">Andres Juarez</span></a></span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The Mexican <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">barbacoa</i> (above) is also a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i>, in which beef, lamb or goat is cooked in a pit, often in or over a large pot to catch the juices. I learned how make <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">barbacoa</i> from Mexican friends in <st1:place w:st="on">Southern California</st1:place> and successfully cooked several goats, 25 lbs of chuck roast, and a whole pig this way. (And unsuccessfully undercooked one goat when there wasn't enough wood; we finished it in the oven.) Here’s <a href="http://copytaste.com/a104">my recipe</a> if you’re interested. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkGTkQMIwLqKJ5_pKFqb1XvpumToZl3N3yLIqzOcbTDt8brXen90xXNYeZgxcjj_YmEqxhaHiyDdWLXQMwVXM8WTvho-rsY4lFdIuPy4LrCgPUp_wm607WCgK3IIFNhbZwCIaKiuIJZNQ/s1600/cochinita-pibil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkGTkQMIwLqKJ5_pKFqb1XvpumToZl3N3yLIqzOcbTDt8brXen90xXNYeZgxcjj_YmEqxhaHiyDdWLXQMwVXM8WTvho-rsY4lFdIuPy4LrCgPUp_wm607WCgK3IIFNhbZwCIaKiuIJZNQ/s320/cochinita-pibil.jpg" width="320" /></a><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br />
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</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">In <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Yucatan</st1:state></st1:place> the Maya <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i> is called a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pib</i>, from which emerges the famous <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cochinita pibil</i>, pig from the earth oven, right. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></i></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;">Cochinita pipil. </span></i><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-size: 10pt;"> Photo: <a href="http://queguisohoy.blogspot.com/2009/05/cochinita-pibil.html">¿Que Guiso Hoy?</a> <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">And every South American region seems to have one too. The Inca version is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pachamanca">pachamanarca</a></i> (from the Quechan for “earthen pot”) of <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Ecuador</st1:country-region>, and NW <st1:country-region w:st="on">Argentina</st1:country-region>; <st1:country-region w:st="on">Bolivia</st1:country-region>’s is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wathiya</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wajaña</i>; and <st1:country-region w:st="on">Brazil</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Paraguay</st1:place></st1:country-region> have the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://pibmirim.socioambiental.org/en/how-they-live/food">paparuto</a></i>. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Curantos</i> are also found throughout the Polynesian islands and the eastern Pacific and include: the Hawaiian <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.primitiveways.com/Imu1.html">imu</a>; </i> the Samoan and Easter Island<a href="http://www.wsamoa.ws/index.php?m=83&s=&i=1793"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">umu</i></a>; Tahiti’s <i><a href="http://www.polynesia.com/tahiti/village-life.html">ahima'a</a>; </i>the Maori <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.nzfsa.govt.nz/consumers/food-safety-topics/foodborne-illnesses/hangi-guide/#P199_13436">hangi</a></i>; and the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.thesalmons.org/lynn/pit.html">mumu</a></i> from Papua New Guinea.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-boBTf7w9JUSgkDH0shbUu7cLT3egEI-NtQA3WHGtYouduY4R1Y76Gh0kHKubO4bp2q48SownO5rkKAb7CJeOgDMd6eByqqxHZx6A14XSrAZRcbIoo6LVQEzyAzq3iCh5vMVjFb06SR3/s1600/1.1268721449.the-earth-oven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy-boBTf7w9JUSgkDH0shbUu7cLT3egEI-NtQA3WHGtYouduY4R1Y76Gh0kHKubO4bp2q48SownO5rkKAb7CJeOgDMd6eByqqxHZx6A14XSrAZRcbIoo6LVQEzyAzq3iCh5vMVjFb06SR3/s400/1.1268721449.the-earth-oven.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Easter Island</span></st1:place><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> <i>umu</i> Photo: <a href="http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/suenson_taylors/1/1268721449/tpod.html">suenson-taylors</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">But back to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">curanto</i>: it inspired this song. To hear a bit of it, follow this <a href="http://www.publicaciones.scd.cl/curanto.htm">link</a> and click on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">música.<o:p></o:p></i></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUh9lSZayIWq8ZUTT_x4NJfsrExbEbHH5eazNvfInN5Ete7t-ygOW1_2WV7pihOMF3MV4IbJU3Cleyl7THypmJ_giSDd4IJhb1YD7_iBXNEND5fD9TS2EnEYt22suEZUB41qZmOYI8Cm3/s1600/New+Picture+(2).bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUh9lSZayIWq8ZUTT_x4NJfsrExbEbHH5eazNvfInN5Ete7t-ygOW1_2WV7pihOMF3MV4IbJU3Cleyl7THypmJ_giSDd4IJhb1YD7_iBXNEND5fD9TS2EnEYt22suEZUB41qZmOYI8Cm3/s640/New+Picture+(2).bmp" width="450" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;">Curumilla Sotomayor, Sara. 2006 </span></strong>¡Sorprendente Hallazgo Arqueológico! La Estrella () Jueves, 16 Febrero 2006, Pgs. A-6-7. On line at<strong><span style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;"> </span></strong><a href="http://www.aforteanosla.com.ar/afla/articulos%20arqueo/hallazgos%20liticos%20en%20chiloe.htm">http://www.aforteanosla.com.ar/afla/articulos%20arqueo/hallazgos%20liticos%20en%20chiloe.htm</a> (Unless otherwise noted, all translations are mine.)</span></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> I thought that bread might be older, but the oldest evidence dates to 3,300 BC (5,300 BP). See “Archeologists Dig Into Bread's Prehistory” Los Angeles Times, June 14, 1998. On line at <a href="http://articles.latimes.com/1998/jun/14/news/mn-59730">http://articles.latimes.com/1998/jun/14/news/mn-59730</a>. </span></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Unidad IV: Sitio Arqueológico De Puente Quilo, <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #333333;">Pasado y Presente en el Bordemar. Medio Ambiente y Cultura</span></span>. <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: #4c4c4c; letter-spacing: 0.75pt;">Museo Regional De Ancud<b><span style="text-transform: uppercase;">.</span></b></span></span> On line at <a href="http://explorancudpuentequilo.blogspot.com/2008/04/sitio-arqueolgico-de-puente-quilo.html">http://explorancudpuentequilo.blogspot.com/2008/04/sitio-arqueolgico-de-puente-quilo.html</a> This is also the source for the photo and drawing.</span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></span></a> Another translation is “rocks heated by the sun”<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Pérez Rosalez, Vicente. 1886 Recuerdos del pasado : 1814-1860. Santiago de Chile : Impr. Gutenberg. P. 383. On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0004566">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0004566</a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Tornero, Recaredo S. 1872. Chile Ilustrado. Valparaiso: Librerian I Ajencias del Mercurio. On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012105">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012105</a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn7" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/curanto/Curanto%20blog.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL">Thoms, Alson V. 2009. <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Rocks of ages: propagation of hot-rock cookery in western North America Journal of Archaeological Science. </span><span style="color: black;">36(3):573-591</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-60553962791886065822010-07-15T13:54:00.006-04:002011-08-30T11:30:00.668-03:00The Pastel de Choclo (Corn Pie) Mystery<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://hccomidachilena.blogspot.com/2011/08/el-misterio-de-pastel-de-choclo.html">Haga click para espanol</a></span></span> </div></blockquote><blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixY01fqPCsPmVUEXx1PikYv33-Mv7ISN6vrnc48ECB62N-C_MQIEGAvGNHajHPCaB5xsxs6zWysKaFITL5VeILrYfFatuNq_suGC5SauJORzTaFzyoRX4Zlb9R7GCT1Hf5Jx0CRNp-D4Dk/s1600/F795236_comida_casera.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixY01fqPCsPmVUEXx1PikYv33-Mv7ISN6vrnc48ECB62N-C_MQIEGAvGNHajHPCaB5xsxs6zWysKaFITL5VeILrYfFatuNq_suGC5SauJORzTaFzyoRX4Zlb9R7GCT1Hf5Jx0CRNp-D4Dk/s320/F795236_comida_casera.gif" width="308" /></a></div><span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="color: black;"> Today, according to an (unscientific) survey conducted by a Chilean internet magazine, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> is <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s favorite home cooked meal, favored by 21% of respondents.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_edn1" name="_ednref1" title="">[1]</a></span></span></span></span></span></blockquote><blockquote>Among the most Chilean of dishes, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pastel de choclo</i> is a pie filled with beef and onions, a piece of chicken, an olive and a quarter boiled egg, and covered with dough made of fresh corn. (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Choclo</i> is Andean Spanish for ear of corn, from the Quechan <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chocollo.)</i> It is always on the menu of Chilean restaurants serving “typical foods,” and appears frequently in workers' lunchrooms, and neighborhood cafes. It is sold in Independence Day celebration booths, supermarkets, bakeries, and by sidewalk vendors. It was the first meal my future wife served me when I came to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city>, and surely would be much appreciated by hungry mourners when I depart. </blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><br />
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pastel de chocloI </i>(or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de maiz</i>—standard Spanish for “corn pie”<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">) </i>is mestizo cooking at its most straightforward: it combines the filling for Spanish <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empanada">empanadas</a> with a crust of the corn dough used to make <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/02/humitas-chilean-tamales.html">humitas</a>, </i>the indigenous tamales of the Andean cultures. And like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">humitas </i>and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">empanadas</i> it must be very old and very Chilean, surely originating, as Chilean anthropologist Sonia Montecino Aguirre suggests, at the hands of Mapuche cooks in the kitchens of the Spanish conquerors.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[2]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWWQ-UtS5lkaJFuooCtO3l1okNnBVfDALm9hMxousBYR_KQpxtc1-jTu2Dh9CLgFXiIVGLeQHlp1IyCAl_hMQH6VgqvvHujq5ZObSXYubZoU_jQ1kSn_k0FBGT5t_8vVjs29AUiAdo-Nc/s1600/IMG_5731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfWWQ-UtS5lkaJFuooCtO3l1okNnBVfDALm9hMxousBYR_KQpxtc1-jTu2Dh9CLgFXiIVGLeQHlp1IyCAl_hMQH6VgqvvHujq5ZObSXYubZoU_jQ1kSn_k0FBGT5t_8vVjs29AUiAdo-Nc/s640/IMG_5731.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><b><br />
</b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">But does it?</b><br />
<br />
Chilean novelist Isabel Allende has it a little differently, as fiction allows. Her heroine Inéz Suárez, Pedro de Valdivia’s mistress and companion in the conquest of Chile, invents empanadas with a corm crust—which can hardly be anything other than <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i>—in Cuzco, Peru, in 1539.</blockquote></div><blockquote>I had a clay oven built in the patio and Calatlina and I begin making empanadas. Wheat flour was very dear, but we learned how to make them from corn meal. They never had time to cool after they came from the oven because the smell spread throughout the neighborhood and people came running to buy them. ….The strong aroma of meat, fried onion, cumin and baked dough soaked into my skin so deeply that I have never lost it. I will die smelling like an empanada.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[3]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote>Allende seems to have gotten one part right; <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>’s iconic <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> appears to have a Peruvian origin; or at least the earliest mention of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> comes from <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Peru</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Peruvian historian Ricardo Palma tells of a remarkable banquet served in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Cuzco</st1:place></st1:city> in 1608:</blockquote></div><blockquote>…the <span class="apple-style-span">Dominicans gave a banquet for the reconciled [Augustinians and Franciscans], But what a banquet! There was <a href="http://www.nutricionyrecetas.com/andino/sopanorteperu.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">theological soup</span></a>, <a href="http://south-american-food.suite101.com/article.cfm/traditional_colombian_food"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">fried giblets</span></a>, stuffed turkey, rabbit carapulcrta [stewed with peanuts], lamb stew, <a href="http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipi%C3%A1n"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">pipian</span></a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locro"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">locro</span></a> of pigs feet, <a href="http://www.gastronomiaperu.com/noticias/detalles.php?d=4090"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">meat in adobo</span></a> [spicy marinade] <a href="http://www.cocineroperuano.com/segundos/20/87-san-pedro-y-san-pablo.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">St. Peter and St. Paul</span></a> (beans with meat, spices and vinegar) and pastel de choclo… </span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[4]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span class="apple-style-span">And since it existed in colonial <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region>, one would expect to find <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> in colonial <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, but it isn’t mentioned, as far as I can tell, in any of the colonial sources. <span style="color: black;">The earliest cl mention I’ve encountered is from</span></span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span>Claudio Gay, French botanist and naturalist who explored <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> in the 1830s. Writing about the food and drink of central Chilean peasants he describes a meat pie—clearly a less elegant version than served at the Dominicans’ banquet--that today we would call a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i>:</blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>….</i>in the great fiestas, and above all at weddings… <i>chicha</i>, young wine, or wine itself accompanies the pies so well enjoyed and made of <i>picadillo</i> [hash] or<i> pino</i> [“filling” in the Mapuche language] of mutton, mixed sometimes with chicken, and covered with a layer of corn ground with sugar and fat, and seasoned as always with a lot of chili and other condiments. These pies were also made with green beans, onions, olives, etc., and were cooked the same day to be eaten hot. They were seldom missing from the table on a day of celebration.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: TimesNewRomanPS-Italic;">5]</span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span class="apple-style-span">Nor does this pie appear in 19<sup>th</sup> century accounts of travelers in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, who often describe the meals, humble or elegant, they were served. Chilean historian Martín Lara, who evidently is also interested in such things, notes:</span> </blockquote></div><blockquote>It is interesting that in the diary of Mary Graham, as in the rest of the books and memoirs consulted, the classic Chilean foods of the present such as pastel de choclo or empanadas do not appear. …In contrast to the empanadas and pastels, [is] the constant and repeated reference made to charquicán as a very common dish on the tables of Chileans of all social statuses.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[6]</span></span></span></span> </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next instance occurs some 40 years later, in 1877, when Chilean writer and politician </span><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna mentions </span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">pastel de maiz</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in a context that also suggest that it is a dish of the common people. He writes: </span></blockquote></div><blockquote>We don’t know if modern presidents of this corn country still like corn, like <span class="apple-style-span">Alonso de Rivera </span>[governor of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, 1601-05] <span class="apple-style-span">did, or if they serve humitas, pastel de maiz, or even the humble chuchoca [corn meal] at their tables.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[7]</span></span></span></span> </blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span style="color: black;">So, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo </i>(or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">maiz) </i>surely exists in 19th century Chile, at least among <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">campesinos</i>, even if the 19<sup>th</sup> century cookbooks do not include it, not even the comprehensive 1882 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">New Kinchen Manual containing 377 selected dishes from the cuisines of France, Spain, Chile, England and Italy,</i> which devotes a chapter to empanadas and meat pies.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[8]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>Nor is it in Palma Alvarado’s fine study of the food and drink of Santiagueños in the late 19<sup>th</sup> century.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[9]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span> And m</span><span class="apple-style-span">ost surprisingly, Chilean historian <span style="color: black;">Eugenio Pereira Salas has no mention of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo </i>in his classic <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Notes for the History of Chilean Cuisine, </i>first published in 1943. </span></span><span style="color: black;">I wonder why.</span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span style="color: black;">It’s inescapable: <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>’s famous <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> didn’t achieve its mythic status until the well into the 20<sup>th</sup> century. And it may have come via <st1:country-region w:st="on">Peru</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Bolivia</st1:country-region> or <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Argentina</st1:place></st1:country-region> where it was common.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">Pastel de Choclo</span></i></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"> recipes</span></b></blockquote><blockquote><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<span style="color: black;">The earliest recipe I have found comes, not from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>, but from an 1890 Argentine cookbook, where it is called </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> <st1:city w:st="on">Sucre</st1:city> [<st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Bolivia</st1:place></st1:country-region>] style:</blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><blockquote style="text-align: center;"><span lang="ES-CL"><i><b>Pastel de choclo a la sucrense</b></i></span><i><b> </b></i></blockquote><blockquote>Grate the corn, and grind very well, on a grinding stone or mortar. Add a cup of milk, stir well and strain through a thin cloth, squeezing hard to extract the juice. Return the corn to the mortar, add another cup of milk, grind again, and strain. To this corn juice, add white corn flour or cornstarch a spoonful at a time, stirring as you pour the flour, and beat until thickened. Season with salt and a little sugar, at most a tablespoon or two, to bring out the natural sweetness of the corn. Melt a large lump of butter, and mix with the dough, stirring and tossing, until the butter has been incorporated. If the dough has thickened more than usual; add a little milk, and always stirring, cook over a moderate fire. Test often, so by the taste you will know when it is cooked and ready. Then remove it from the heat, add butter, stir and cool. When cold, add four egg yokes, and stir to incorporate into the dough.</blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;"></span></div><blockquote>Butter the bottom of a heat resistant ceramic dish<span class="longtext"> and spread a layer of corn dough.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="longtext">On this place your filling; what ever kind you like, either of pieces of pigeon in seasoned marinade [adobo] or stewed, or with a hash seasoned with spices, raisins of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Malaga</st1:place></st1:city>, almonds and olives.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="longtext">Over the filling, symmetrically place slices of hard boiled eggs and olives.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="longtext">Cover the filling with another layer of corn dough and put in the oven.</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="longtext">When the surface of the cake has browned to a deep gold, it is done and should go directly from the oven to the table, because the hotter, the more delicious. Natalia R.</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="longtext">Dorado (Cochab) [<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Cochabamba</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Bolivia</st1:country-region></st1:place>]</span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_edn11" name="_ednref11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span lang="ES-CL"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span></span></a></blockquote><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span class="longtext"><span style="color: black;">This interesting recipe, with its smooth dough, butter, raisins of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Malaga</st1:place></st1:city>, and almond is clearly from a social status well above that of Chilean peasants. It is probably the descendant of the Dominicans’ version of 1608, but it has some common elements to the earliest Chilean recipe I’ve found: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Negrita Doddy’s </i>1911 recipe for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de maiz</i></span></span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[12] </span></span></span></span></span><span class="longtext"><span style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span>including eggs and sugar in the dough, a bottom as well as a top layer of corn dough, and raisins. </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: -.5in;"><blockquote><span class="longtext"><span style="color: black;">Her <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pino</i>, or filling, which is the same as for her empanadas, is very much like today's:</span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal"><blockquote><span class="longtext"><span style="color: black;">Cut an onion into a small dice, fry with fifty grams of lard; and when browned add double the quantity of roasted meat, also cut into small cubes, reserving the juice. Brown, adding a tablespoon of flour, salt, the reserved meat juices and a cup [200 ml.] of broth. After it has boiled, remove from the fire and add raisins, well washed and seeded, olives, a tablespoon of parsley, green or red chili, and allow to cool. It is better prepared the day before. </span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><span class="longtext"><span style="color: black;">Oddly, the first Chilean recipe I’ve fond that calls the dish <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo </i>rather that<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> … de maiz</i>, uses only a top crust, and was published in the <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">USA</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Evidently by</span></span><span style="color: black;"> the 1920s it had become so popular that the US Embassy in <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city> submitted a recipe to appear among other classic Chilean dishes in the 1927 <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">US</st1:place></st1:country-region> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Congressional Club Cook Book: Favorite National and International Recipes.</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[13]</span></span></span></span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></i> <o:p></o:p></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><span style="color: black;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9r44O6BS1bJsgJcTbs16c5nLVdaHB2TuGJCgVlbtmllWSAOmx19lZpKoEm2weUbuCQLWJhuVVG3bfuiVraJkFTikXwec3XTjRNrG7QHMr5M009978CPnBTB__g51h4iwtDSUh1uhImzq-/s1600/New+Picture+(5).png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9r44O6BS1bJsgJcTbs16c5nLVdaHB2TuGJCgVlbtmllWSAOmx19lZpKoEm2weUbuCQLWJhuVVG3bfuiVraJkFTikXwec3XTjRNrG7QHMr5M009978CPnBTB__g51h4iwtDSUh1uhImzq-/s400/New+Picture+(5).png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: -0.5in; margin-right: -0.5in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: left;"><blockquote><span style="color: black;">The Congressional Club recipe, above, is a good one; a bit spicier than today’s most common version which doesn’t tend to include “red pepper” or tomato, but does include a piece of chicken. For the standard Chilean recipe, the obvious source is the classic Chilean Cookbook, the 700 page <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Gran Cocina Chilena </i>(8<sup>th</sup> edition, 2000):</span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: black;"><b>Pastel de Choclo</b><o:p></o:p></span></i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><blockquote>8 ears of corn <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">[see note, below]</span></blockquote><blockquote>1 kg. ground beef</blockquote> 1/2 kg. chicken pieces<br />
<blockquote>6 onions</blockquote><blockquote>2 cloves garlic</blockquote><blockquote>1 tablespoon cumin</blockquote><blockquote>1/8 kg olives (5 oz)</blockquote><blockquote>1/8 kg raisins (ditto)</blockquote><blockquote>2 eggs</blockquote><blockquote>Milk</blockquote><blockquote>Salt and pepper</blockquote><blockquote> Cut the onions into a small dice and fry, then add the ground meat, garlic, salt, pepper, and cumin, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Boil the chicken and cut into pieces. Boil the eggs and cut into rounds.</blockquote><blockquote>Grate the corn and blend to a purée in a blender, add a little milk and fry the mixture in a little oil without burning it. </blockquote><blockquote> In an oven proof pan [or ideally in individual earthenware bowls of <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/09/pomaire-potterygreda-de-pomaire.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;">greda de Pomaire</span></a>] place the pieces of chicken, separated, and the olives and raisins and over that the prepared filling and the egg rounds, topped by a layer of the corn purée, sprinkling a little sugar on top to aid in browning. Bake in a hot over for 15 minutes.</blockquote><blockquote> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Note: The corn used is “field corn,” which is starchier than sweet corn and will cook into a thick paste. See </span><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chilean-corn-choclo-chileno.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chilean Corn (Choclo Chileno)</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. If field corn is not available add corn meal to thicken the mixture. In Chilean supermarkets prepared corn dough for humitas and pastel de choclo is available frozen</span>.</blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHmFLRMOV0c90eKwIFKvg5Zdlalm9SNe5wURPPjmuVDAGLNRF_N93gCMtOOZfGnSOg6lD83dBDSBZ3L2g2f6RS-PEYQ3PnZaeR7oQ7Op2Ajj53Wc7frNtwfrqG8y2ETneRYshshCqgWq5/s1600/IMG_4687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="548" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghHmFLRMOV0c90eKwIFKvg5Zdlalm9SNe5wURPPjmuVDAGLNRF_N93gCMtOOZfGnSOg6lD83dBDSBZ3L2g2f6RS-PEYQ3PnZaeR7oQ7Op2Ajj53Wc7frNtwfrqG8y2ETneRYshshCqgWq5/s640/IMG_4687.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-right: -.5in;"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: black;">And the mystery?</span></b><span style="color: black;"> The origins of the Chilean version of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo</i> are clearly humble; it was never a sophisticated dish like that of the Dominicans in 1608 or the Argentineans and Bolivians of 1890. The dish Gay saw in the 1830s among rural peasants either arose spontaneously in rural <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>, as </span>Sonia Montecino suggests, or arrived with some low level conquistador’s woman, to become the center piece in peasant fiestas and rural hacienda kitchens, but not in elegant homes. And not in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city></st1:place>. </blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><blockquote>At least not until the 1900s. <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Santiago</st1:place></st1:city>’s population grew from 190,000 in 1882 to 406,500 in 1916,<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[14]</span></span></span></span> due primarily to immigration from rural communities. Among those rural migrants, we can suppose there was a woman; a descendant perhaps of Allende’s Inez, a strong<span style="color: black;"> independent woman. She supported herself and her children by baking her rural specialty, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo. </i>She was a good cook and a better businesswoman; her pies sold well and soon she expanded her sales. Others followed and by the end of the first decade of the 20<sup>th</sup> century, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de choclo </i>(or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pastel de maiz </i>as the gentry called it<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">)</i> had become popular; so popular that a recipe even appeared in the elegant French-influenced cookbook of <span class="longtext"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Negrita Doddy. </i> And from there it grew and grew.<o:p></o:p></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: -0.5in; margin-right: -0.5in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; margin-left: -0.5in; margin-right: -0.5in; margin-top: 0in; text-align: center;"><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span class="longtext" style="font-size: large;"><b>A just-so story?</b></span> </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span class="longtext" style="font-size: large;"><b> “How the </b><i><b>Pastel de Choclo</b></i><b> became </b><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><b>Chile</b></st1:country-region></st1:place><b>’s favorite food.”<br />
<o:p></o:p></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><br />
</span><span class="longtext" style="font-size: large;"><b>Sure, why not?</b></span></span></blockquote></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: -.5in; margin-right: -.5in; margin-top: 0in;"><br />
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</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Terra, Blog Gouyr.net. El Terremoto se quedó con el premio Bicentenario. </span>2010-03-26. On line at <a href="http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?pagina=blog_comentario&idpost=16733&idblog=16&titulo_url=El_Terremoto_se_quedo_con_el_premio_Bicentenario">http://www.terra.cl/gournet/index.cfm?pagina=blog_comentario&idpost=16733&idblog=16&titulo_url=El_Terremoto_se_quedo_con_el_premio_Bicentenario</a> The other dishes mentioned can be found by searching this blog. </span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Montecino Aguirre, Sonia. 2004. </span><em><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Cocinas Mestizas de Chile: La Olla Deleitosa,</span></em><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Sonia Montecino Aguirre, Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombino. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">On line at </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/www.precolombino.cl/zip_pdf.php?id=1905">www.precolombino.cl/zip_pdf.php?id=1905</a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> Allende, Isabel. 2007. Ines of My Soul: A Novel. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">New York</st1:state></st1:place>: <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: Verdana;">Harper Perennial. p. 88.</span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL">Palma, Ricardo. 1893. Tradiciones Peruanas Quinta Serie, III Agustinos y franciscanos</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL">Ricardo Palma, p 193. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span">On line at<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/12474965333472617765657/p0000003.htm#57">http://www.cervantesvirtual.com/servlet/SirveObras/12474965333472617765657/p0000003.htm#57</a> as quoted in<b><span style="color: #cc0000;"> </span></b>Arturo Jiménez Borja. <span lang="ES-CL">2008</span><span lang="ES-CL"> Historia de la Gastronomía Peruana, part 6. </span>On line at <a href="http://cocinatradicional.blogspot.com/2008/08/historia-de-la-gastronoma-peruana-parte.html">http://cocinatradicional.blogspot.com/2008/08/historia-de-la-gastronoma-peruana-parte.html</a> (Unless otherwise noted, all translations are mine,)</span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Gay, Claudio. 1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo 1. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 162. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a> Later note: Juan Ignacio Molina writing in 1810 mentions that the dough for <i>humitas</i> was also used as for "<i>cajas de pasteles," </i>boxes (doughs?) for pies. Were these <i>pasteles de choclo?</i> See <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chilean-corn-choclo-chileno.html">http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/11/chilean-corn-choclo-chileno.html</a> for the full quotation.</span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Lara, Martín. 2007. Viaje<b> </b>y representación: el caso de Mary Graham, trayectoria de una viajera romántica. una aproximación a su mirada sobre chile. Historia y geografía, Nº. 20, 2007, p. 171-204 on line at </span><a href="http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=2294162"><span lang="ES-CL">http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=2294162</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Vicuña Mackenna, Benjamín. 1877.</span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> De Valparaiso a Santiago, datos, impresiones, noticias, episodios de viaje: guía del Ferro-carril central. Serie Biblioteca de la Imprenta de la librería del Mercurio. (1a. Ed.), Imprenta de la Librería del Mercurio, de E. Undurraga y Cía., Santiago, Región Metropolitana de Santiago, Chile. </span><span style="color: black;">On line at </span><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=txAIAAAAQAAJ&dq=editions:OXFORD591013765">http://books.google.com/books?id=txAIAAAAQAAJ&dq=editions:OXFORD591013765</a></span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a> <span style="color: black;">Available through <i>Memoria Chilena’s </i>digitized collection, on line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentos.asp?id_ut=cocinachilena.loslibrosderecetas1851-1950">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentos.asp?id_ut=cocinachilena.loslibrosderecetas1851-1950</a>. </span></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="color: black;">Palma</span></st1:city></st1:place><span style="color: black;"> Alvarado,<span class="apple-converted-space"><sup> </sup></span>Daniel. </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">2004<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i>De apetitos y de cañas.</i> El consumo de alimentos y bebidas en Santiago a fines del siglo XIX. P. 394. Historia No 37, Vol. II, julio-diciembre 2004: 391-417 on line at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717-71942004000200005&script=sci_arttext"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: #11593c;">http://www.scielo.cl/scielo.php?pid=S0717-71942004000200005&script=sciarttext</span></a></span><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> As a search for “pastel de choclo” in 19<sup>th</sup> century Google Books in Spanish will confirm.</span></div></div><div id="edn11"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref11" name="_edn11" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[11]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Manuela Gorriti, Juana. 1890. </span>Cocina Ecléctica. Primera edición, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Buenos Aires</st1:city></st1:place>, Félix Lajouane Editor (Librairie Générale). On line at <a href="http://allandalus.com/~apicius/cocina%20eclectica.pdf">http://allandalus.com/~apicius/cocina%20eclectica.pdf</a></span></div></div><div id="edn12"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref12" name="_edn12" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[12]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Lawe. 1911 La negrita Doddy : nuevo libro de cocina, enseñanza completa de la cocina casera i parte de la gran cocina : con un apéndice de recetas útiles i de los deberes de una dueña de casa.<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="color: black;">Santiago</span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span style="color: black;">: Soc. Impr. y Litogr., Universo. p.150 (filling) and p.188 (dough) On line at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0012281"><span style="color: #11593c;">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0012281</span></a></span></span></div></div><div id="edn13"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref13" name="_edn13" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[13]</span></span></span></a> Congressional Club Cook Book: Favorite National and International Recipes. The Congressional Club, 1927. On line at <a href="http://schlar/;lib.vt.euc/digital_books/pdf/TX715.C755.pdf">http://schlar;lib.vt.euc/digital_books/pdf/TX715.C755.pdf</a> The embassy “recipe” actually said only to combine the filling from the empanada recipe with the corn dough from the <i>humitas, </i>both submitted by the wife of the Chilean military attaché. The recipe here is a cut-and-paste from the originals.</span></div></div><div id="edn14" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Cocina%20Chilena/Chilean%20Pastel%20de%20Choclo.doc#_ednref14" name="_edn14" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[14]</span></span></span></a> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>, historical demographical data of the urban centers. On line at <a href="http://www.populstat.info/Americas/chilet.htm">http://www.populstat.info/Americas/chilet.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><br />
</div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-24282597127629007642010-07-05T18:31:00.005-04:002011-06-21T11:28:46.059-04:00Eating Chilean Horse Meat<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13pt;">Señora Ercilla Curiche, Mapuche <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kimche</i> (wise elder) speaks about some of the food she ate as a child:</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We ate meat; pork, lamb, horse. But the meat wasn’t cooked like it is today; it was semi-cooked, people only cooked it a little and then ate it; especially horse meat. This helped, providing more energy and taking greater advantage of this type of food, of meat. Today the children haven’t had an opportunity to know these foods that we grandparents had. They only eat artificial foods, foods that contain a lot of sugar and that don’t promote physical or intellectual growth. This is the reality that today’s children encount</span>er.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[1]</span></span></span></span></blockquote><span style="font-family: Arial;">For many the idea of eating horse meat is abhorrent, emotionally akin to eating the family pet. But for much of the world (and until recently in <st1:country-region w:st="on">England</st1:country-region> and the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">US</st1:country-region></st1:place>) it is an accepted food; reminiscent perhaps of harder times, but accepted. Among <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s Mapuche and others with rural origins it also engenders emotions; but here it means wholesome, natural and traditional, in contrast to the sugar, salt and chemical laden industrial foods that fill our supermarkets and children.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div align="right" style="text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkeoOaTZm8ie8wKn9lGbx9yuuXIzxWDa85IvVLletI1UPJh8lVXT5mPARbLwdJ_p2fts6jB8ZRElK_DNlwEwVUbsawpeMQmA8Rhcp5xxcFwd5ksJWmTdukdvdU9gyt2DNq5vpHNuq0G6M/s1600/chinese_horse_lascaux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkeoOaTZm8ie8wKn9lGbx9yuuXIzxWDa85IvVLletI1UPJh8lVXT5mPARbLwdJ_p2fts6jB8ZRElK_DNlwEwVUbsawpeMQmA8Rhcp5xxcFwd5ksJWmTdukdvdU9gyt2DNq5vpHNuq0G6M/s400/chinese_horse_lascaux.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial;">Horses have a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horse_meat">long history</a> as food in Europe and Asia, from the Paleolithic horse hunt pictured in France's Lascaux cave </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://www.palaeogeek.net/category/europe/">(left</a>),</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> to today’s horse meat butcher shops in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Rome</st1:place></st1:city>’s Testaccio Market </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">(<a href="http://www.bridgeandtunnelclub.com/bigmap/outoftown/italy/lazio/rome/testacciomarket/index.htm">below right</a>)</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCWEpVQ7wxzOT8PEoPkdYGpqoIeFPZUCscfMpI38tjGYgV42iW3_iO9a1T3fFekFymcWfxwlEc6Jywp1Zzv7Xf5BjNJpzz7w8rAYQp1AH8PTmTd8Xu_fz_Folrwklr-HrWz-k-6Ys7dO4/s1600/02equine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCWEpVQ7wxzOT8PEoPkdYGpqoIeFPZUCscfMpI38tjGYgV42iW3_iO9a1T3fFekFymcWfxwlEc6Jywp1Zzv7Xf5BjNJpzz7w8rAYQp1AH8PTmTd8Xu_fz_Folrwklr-HrWz-k-6Ys7dO4/s400/02equine.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">But horses, which evolved in the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Americas</st1:country-region></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> before spreading to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:place w:st="on">Asia</st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">, went extinct here 11 to 12,000 years ago and were absent until the Spanish reintroduced them.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">The first horses came to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> briefly in 1535, with the unsuccessful expedition of Diego de Almagro, but the first permanent herds owe their arrival to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Pedro de Valdivia’s</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> expedition in 1540.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">By 1544, selective breeding conducted by Father Rodrigo Gonzalez Marmolejo began, leading to the development of the Chilean horse, the oldest registered breed in the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Americas</st1:country-region></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Lautaro_(de_Pedro_Subercaseaux).jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Lautaro (Pedro Subercaseaux)</span></a><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiafvg5ULPbdOhP5ugCKv08WPehFv6koibDGApzAI7D68PYPTLsIk3YoEVelSwWOQz-48A1nhtfCe5WM2YciA_P4exVK2TwMfoBvgOt5dvueNp2ybXqtP1rmGXr9dFqrRhAy-l7m9t9vAWJ/s1600/Lautaro_(de_Pedro_Subercaseaux).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiafvg5ULPbdOhP5ugCKv08WPehFv6koibDGApzAI7D68PYPTLsIk3YoEVelSwWOQz-48A1nhtfCe5WM2YciA_P4exVK2TwMfoBvgOt5dvueNp2ybXqtP1rmGXr9dFqrRhAy-l7m9t9vAWJ/s400/Lautaro_(de_Pedro_Subercaseaux).jpg" width="248" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial;"> The Mapuche, the native people of south central <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>, first encountered horses in battle with the invading conquistadors and were no match for the mounted Spanish warriors with their iron weapons and amour. At first, according to legend, they thought the horses and their riders were a single beast, but they soon learned that horse and rider were separate and mortal. After suffering disastrous defeats in the hands of the Spanish in the early years, Lautaro a young Mapuche captive, son of a chief and stable boy for Pedro De Valdivia, escaped on horseback taking with him knowledge of riding and the tactics necessary to defeat the Spanish. He became the Mapuche military leader, united the bands into an effective fighting force, and defeated the Spanish at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">fort</st1:placetype> <st1:placename w:st="on">Tucapel</st1:placename></st1:place>. Pedro de Valdivia came to the defeated fort and while camped in the ruins was attacked by Lautaro’s forces, defeated, captured and executed.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">While the Chilean conquistadores tried to keep horses out of Mapuche hands, Spanish retreating from <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Buenos Aires</st1:city></st1:place> abandoned a dozen or more, and by 1580 their descendants and other escaped horses had grown to 12,000 head<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[4]</span></span></span> By 1600 constant Spanish attacks had decimated the Mapuche and transformed them from a largely sedentary, riverine culture of farmers into mobile equestrian bands of warrior-herders, and trade across the <st1:place w:st="on">Andes</st1:place> supplied the Mapuche with more horses than the Spaniards had. They were to hold the Spanish, and later the Chilean, armies at bay for the next 250 years. The key was their horses, which became central to Mapuche culture. </span><br />
<blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The meat of their horses became, and remains today, their favorite food, the melted fat and blood their drink. Blood sausage was reserved for the owner of a horse or mare that had been ceremonially sacrificed. Blood was also used to wash their hair and to gain strength through its magical powers; the beating heart cured respiratory illnesses of children. Its fat burned in lamps. Travel shelters were made with horse skins, the hair inside. Skin also made their beds, cloaks, loin cloths, women’s aprons and boots. With the leather they made lariats, reins, saddles. The manes were used to make ropes and the <i>weskel</i> (a ring men used to increase sexual pleasure).<br />
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Having become integrated into the daily life of the Mapuche, the horse was also incorporated into ceremonies related to the supernatural world. In the <i>nguillatún</i> [the major annual ceremony] it was sacrificed and along with the riding equipment formed part of the funereal goods that accompanied its owner to the other side of the mythical sea</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">[5]</span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Horse meat in </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">Chile</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"> today</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today, over four centuries after the Mapuche obtained horses, they continue to be central to the culture, and horse meat continues to be eaten; and not just by Mapuche. No data is available on the percentage of Chileans who eat horse meat, but a recent study of dietary habits of 200 Mapuche residents of the </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Santiago</span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> region found that it is eaten by 31% of households surveyed.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Overall, Chilean horse meat consumption averages only 600 grams per person per year, but it is higher than lamb, at 400 grams. </span><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> has some 200 equine butcher shops, mostly located in working class neighborhoods in </span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Santiago</span></st1:place></st1:city><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and to the south. The meat is “of good quality and, well presented in defined cuts similar to beef cuts.” </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chile</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> also has some 33 horse meat processing plants, making cold cuts and sausages. Horse meat jerky is available in super markets... at least occasionally.</span><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9vFUuokFxJVRqLbQP_TqIcOkI9nTJv3BpSoJq2JySNvzk2qpo20Yf9iZLc1fBvljq4yKXNQt4IBS63PdkNFSqdRp4g7zT3aEE2eRDMT2eSLncBjevI5UhdWZ7XC5hQNM8WwKstc7bQjl/s1600/3817642467_882880c9ca_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe9vFUuokFxJVRqLbQP_TqIcOkI9nTJv3BpSoJq2JySNvzk2qpo20Yf9iZLc1fBvljq4yKXNQt4IBS63PdkNFSqdRp4g7zT3aEE2eRDMT2eSLncBjevI5UhdWZ7XC5hQNM8WwKstc7bQjl/s640/3817642467_882880c9ca_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-align: center; text-autospace: none;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Equine butcher shops in <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city>. Photo Credit: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/lorhuc/3817642467/"> lorhuc</a></span><br />
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</div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Temuco</span></st1:city><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">, <span class="apple-style-span">capital of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s</span><span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="apple-style-span">Araucanía Region</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">,</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">heartland of Mapuche culture, has 20 or more equine butcher shops for a population of a little over a 260,000. An article called “Boom in horse meat” in the July 4, 2005 edition of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Austral</i>, the region's daily newspaper, reported:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Perhaps the most characteristic equine butcher shop is</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Carnes Salazar</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> [Salazar Meats] with several decades of experience. The owners Cristina, David and Pablo, follow the path of their father, Sergio, specializing in horse meat. "Consumption has grown a lot. The people like it because it has changed greatly. Before they thought that it was smelly and tough, from cart horses.” Their animals are cleanly raised and provide a tasty and tender meat. As a meat market they sell three 1300 lb. horse carcasses a week. A fattened house provides a tender and tasty product. A thin horse, on the other hand, yields tough meat. Prices for the animal have increased, due to the high demand. Now there are more meat markets too. </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i>Carnes Salaza</i>r buys animals from producers in the south and also from a specialized horse fattener in </span><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Talca</span></st1:city></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">. “People have learned a lot about this meat. Sometimes they bought it not knowing that it was horse and then returned to congratulate us. They change their minds quickly." <i>Carnes Salazar</i> has become known for selling their seasoned</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> churrasco</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> [sandwich steak]. The consumption of this meat is democratic. All socioeconomic levels look for it. The rural people look for cuts with bone to prepare the traditional </span><a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/cazuela-chilean-comfort-food.html"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">cazuela</span></span></i></a>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[7]</span></span></span></blockquote><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">In </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">’s Pinto market, another equine butcher with 22 years of experience has a sligltly different take on his customers: “Sixty to 70% of out consumers are rural people. The Mapuche have taught the people of </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> to eat this meat, and they now consume a lot. It’s much healthier.”</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">Nutritionally, he is correct; horse meat is nutritionally superior to more common meats: lower in fat, calories and cholesterol, and higher in protein.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">[8</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">]</span></span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><br />
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</div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">My experience with horse meat was in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Temuco</st1:place></st1:city></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">, in the Mapuche restaurant <a href="http://www.frommers.com/destinations/temuco/D64489.html">Kokavi</a> where I had horse steak. It was tender and flavorful, cooked medium-well. The taste was very much like beef.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">While Kokavi is an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant, favored by local Mapuche and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">winka </i>(non-Mapuche), horse meat is also served in more elegant venues. Mapuche Chef Juan Carlos Quiñeman of <st1:city w:st="on">Santiago</st1:city>’s Hotel Four Points by <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Sheridan</st1:city></st1:place> recently won the silver medal in </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">XXIII National Concourse of Gastronomy in the traditional cuisine category for</span><span style="font-family: Tahoma;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">his <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.kilometrocero.cl/2009/11/al-rescate-de-la-cocina-mapuche/">Koru Kawell con Tukun e Iwiñkofke</a></i><b>, </b>a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cazuela </i>of horse meat with toasted wheat, served with fried squash-dough breads and a<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>relish of wheat hominy, tomatoes and chili. You may not find <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cazuela de caballo con locro y sopaipillas con pebre de mote</i> every day at the dining room of the Four Points, but Chef <span style="color: black;">Quiñeman is there:</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MvICgteYpeylHlcpJkP-S6nydCfkc3c8qdt-AQ6ASzIeIWu-yOlYt5T5YDG4h2wabpknGGagKNw1g2iv4FShPsISrRl21gx8druGs-tUnUYcxUMIqPlbGoezLvtMBHzYr6MIGx-ddGnJ/s1600/chef_final_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1MvICgteYpeylHlcpJkP-S6nydCfkc3c8qdt-AQ6ASzIeIWu-yOlYt5T5YDG4h2wabpknGGagKNw1g2iv4FShPsISrRl21gx8druGs-tUnUYcxUMIqPlbGoezLvtMBHzYr6MIGx-ddGnJ/s400/chef_final_2.jpg" width="400" /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; color: black; font-family: Arial;"> </span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">“I’ve always been restless to do something related to my roots with distinct flavor because it is prepared by someone who carries the blood. They are memories that come from my childhood,” he explains.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span><o:p></o:p></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><br />
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</div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.kilometrocero.cl/2009/11/al-rescate-de-la-cocina-mapuche/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Chef Juan Carlos Quiñeman</span></a></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: .75pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><br />
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</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText" style="tab-stops: 294.0pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Actas de los diálogos interculturales entre cosmovisiones científicas y mapuche, Segunda Asamblea Plenaria<b>. </b></span>On line at <a href="http://www.mapuche.info/mapuint/DialogoIntercultural5.html">http://www.mapuche.info/mapuint/DialogoIntercultural5.html</a>. (Unless otherwise noted, all translations are mine.)</span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> The Chilean Horse: <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Americas</st1:country-region></st1:place> Oldest Horse. On line at <a href="http://www.chileanhorse.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1">http://www.chileanhorse.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1</a></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Battle</st1:city></st1:place> of Tucapel, <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Wikipedia. On line at </span></span><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Tucapel">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Tucapel</a> </span></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> Criollo (horse), Wikipedia. On line at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Criollo_(horse)">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Criollo_(horse)</a></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Ulloa, Gonzalo. 2010 El caballo: el recurso que revolucionó al mundo mapuche. Revista Travesía. </span>13 February, 2010 On line at <a href="http://www.travesiaweb.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=2">http://www.travesiaweb.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=2</a> </span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Schnettler, Berta, Huaiquinir, Valeska, Mora, Marcos<i> et al</i>. Diferencias étnicas y de aculturación en el consumo de alimentos en la Región Metropolitana de Santiago<b>, </b>Chile. </span><i>ALAN</i>, dic. 2009, vol.59, no.4, p.407-418 On line at <a href="http://alanrevista.org/ediciones/2009-4/art9.asp">http://alanrevista.org/ediciones/2009-4/art9.asp</a></span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div style="margin-bottom: 7.5pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: .75pt;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">[7]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Avilés,</span><span lang="ES-CL"> </span><span class="aut"><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial;">Hardy. 2005</span></span><span lang="ES-CL"> El boom de la carne de caballo: Crece en forma "galopante" El Austral, Reportajes. </span>July 4, 2005. On line at <span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/antialone.html?page=http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/site/artic/20050704/pags/20050704055057.html">http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/antialone.html?page=http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/site/artic/20050704/pags/20050704055057.html</a></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/antialone.html?page=http://www.renacerdeangol.cl/prontus4_noticias/site/artic/20050704/pags/20050704055057.html"></a></span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Luengo, Juan. El caballo: una alternativa en el consumo actual de carnes. TECNO VET: Año 7 N°3, diciembre 2001. O</span>n line at <a href="http://www.tecnovet.uchile.cl/CDA/tecnovet_articulo/0,1409,SCID%253D9611%2526ISID%253D467,00.html##">http://www.tecnovet.uchile.cl/CDA/tecnovet_articulo/0,1409,SCID%253D9611%2526ISID%253D467,00.html</a></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.tecnovet.uchile.cl/CDA/tecnovet_articulo/0,1409,SCID%253D9611%2526ISID%253D467,00.html##"></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold; line-height: 18px;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/meat/Eating%20Chilean%20Horse%20Meat.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><b><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">[9]</span></b></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;">Mundaca,<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span>Gianina. </span><span lang="ES-CL" style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;"> Al rescate de la cocina mapuche. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-weight: normal;">Km Cero. On line at <a href="http://www.kilometrocero.cl/2009/11/al-rescate-de-la-cocina-mapuche/">http://www.kilometrocero.cl/2009/11/al-rescate-de-la-cocina-mapuche/</a></span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn9" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
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</div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2676706555611983773.post-32645822610287254302010-06-17T18:16:00.010-04:002011-07-19T10:37:40.631-04:00Eating Chilean Potatoes<div class="MsoNormal">The world eats Chilean potatoes; 315 million metric tons in 2006, about 73 lbs. per person. Of course they are not all grown in <st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>; <st1:country-region st="on">China</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region st="on">Russia</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region st="on">India</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region st="on">USA</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region st="on">Ukraine</st1:country-region> account for 55% while in a good year <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> produces .5% of the world’s supply, around 1.5 million tons.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[1]</span></span></span> </span>And of course potatoes were not domesticated in <st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>, but in <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">Peru</st1:place></st1:country-region>. But it is varieties descended from <st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>’s potatoes, <st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on">Chiloe</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>’s to be specific, that feed the world; they are adapted to the long summer days of the temperate zone where most of the world’s potatoes are grown today.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[2]</span></span></span><o:p></o:p></div><h2><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Potato Origins</span></i></h2><div>Almost 200 species of wild potatoes (tuber producing species of the genus, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Solanum</i>) occur from southern <st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region> to the United Sates,<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[3]</span></span></span> but the two major candidates for the wild ancestor of the domesticated potato, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Solanum tuberosum</i>, are from <st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region>, and from <st1:country-region st="on">Peru</st1:country-region> and <st1:country-region st="on">Bolivia</st1:country-region> around <st1:place st="on">Lake Titicaca</st1:place>. Both areas have large numbers of potato varieties, which according to the influential 20<sup><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">th</span></sup> century theories of N.I. Valvilov, makes them likely centers of domestication. The potato origin controversy raged for years, but was finally resolved in favor of <st1:country-region st="on">Peru</st1:country-region> by David M. Spooner, whose genetic analysis demonstrated that all <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">S. tuberosum</i> varieties are descendants of wild potato species from the Peruvian side of <st1:place st="on">Lake Titicaca</st1:place>, first cultivated around 7,000 years ago.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">[4</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">]</span></span></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4eNtfyfq_8d3zKJjPbeYhsvsVeFt4QgLzuOwPDqHiRHvAJu4SpRKy_EuijkZZ7yBYU8NEd15HsK-sKcLcjlb0yW5qVLbAKaY7Mzz4rGmaVBRF-MTG22ZKLaJ5temMbRBpZqlmnY5r6H0M/s1600/071126152711-large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4eNtfyfq_8d3zKJjPbeYhsvsVeFt4QgLzuOwPDqHiRHvAJu4SpRKy_EuijkZZ7yBYU8NEd15HsK-sKcLcjlb0yW5qVLbAKaY7Mzz4rGmaVBRF-MTG22ZKLaJ5temMbRBpZqlmnY5r6H0M/s400/071126152711-large.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Cultivated and wild potatoes (photo: <em><span style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/11/071126152711.htm"><span style="font-style: normal;">Peggy Greb</span></a>)</span></em><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><em><span style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></em></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><div class="MsoNormal">But while the origins of the domesticated potato are clearly Peruvian, the earliest evidence that people were eating potatoes--in fact the earliest evidence of potatoes period--comes from <st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Remains of wild potatoes, probably food remains, were found in the 13,000+ year old archaeological site, Monte Verde, the oldest well documented archaeological site in the <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">Americas</st1:place></st1:country-region>. (See <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2009/03/eating-paleo-chilean-food-at-monte.html">Eating Paleo-Chilean: Food at Monte Verde</a>). <st1:city st="on">Darwin</st1:city> observed these wild potatoes on islands south of <st1:place st="on">Chiloe</st1:place> in 1835 <span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: xx-small;">[5]</span></span></span>: </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzduwQGzzeFqwkjJbRhab1lnX74igHRd0rKBSPJ_olYTk_ooZ_ttXpyX8URZxPzO-V5LNZHQ_jMN5gnTwu9XEAbCsEzKYWYEUJtzIGtvtv_qTxREKn50uo2rYMox7xLK57-asXAJFxn2Sy/s1600/New+Picture.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzduwQGzzeFqwkjJbRhab1lnX74igHRd0rKBSPJ_olYTk_ooZ_ttXpyX8URZxPzO-V5LNZHQ_jMN5gnTwu9XEAbCsEzKYWYEUJtzIGtvtv_qTxREKn50uo2rYMox7xLK57-asXAJFxn2Sy/s640/New+Picture.bmp" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWcSTF7J2vY6V3QRcjgTX1a6-UM6LKL-5_gFBVOKK7q7ZBGuonvzUvHoD3vEUSWSrYsVlbQbviLS_n5bibIb3MhACe0mqHg2dzbUw2lu3XjQQtEntnA7B0f3pmCpUgDFPLn0VRdvtpohdN/s1600/S.+central+chile+3.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWcSTF7J2vY6V3QRcjgTX1a6-UM6LKL-5_gFBVOKK7q7ZBGuonvzUvHoD3vEUSWSrYsVlbQbviLS_n5bibIb3MhACe0mqHg2dzbUw2lu3XjQQtEntnA7B0f3pmCpUgDFPLn0VRdvtpohdN/s320/S.+central+chile+3.gif" width="184" /></a>Whether this wild species, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Solanum maglia</i>, was ever cultivated we don’t know; the domesticated potatoes of southern <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region> are descendants of the Andean wild potato, not the local species. And they must have arrived early, because they evolved into a distinct subspecies (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">S. </i><i>tuberosum </i>var. <i>tuberosum</i>) adapted to the long summer days of <st1:place st="on">Chiloe</st1:place>, and into dozens of varieties.<b><o:p></o:p></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Claudia Gay, the French naturalist whose two volume <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Physical and Political History of Chile: Agriculture</i> (1862-65) provides the best account of Chilean agriculture in the 19<sup>th</sup> century, writes:<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In Chile this plant is grown in the wildest places, in the deserts, the islands, and in the mountains where they are sometimes found in such abundance that that the Indians have given one range the name of this tuber, the <i>poñis</i> range. [<i>poñis</i> is “potato” in the Mapuche language] </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Thus the varieties resulting from the skill of the cultivators or a combination of natural circumstances are very numerous. ….in only the </span><st1:place st="on"><st1:placetype st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">province</span></st1:placetype><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> of </span><st1:placename st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chiloe</span></st1:placename></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> I have observed forty five. </span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> Though the soil of this archipelago is of inferior quality, the mild temperatures and humid climate are perfectly adapted for the cultivation of these roots, potatoes do very well and are the principal food of the inhabitants. The Chilotes take care to plant the varieties separately so that all do not come out the same. Some like the <i>patirupñi</i>, are bitter, bad tasting and serve only to fatten the animals; others like the <i>huapa</i> provide two harvests when planted twice a year, others are more or less appropriate for a good stew, or like the <i>reina</i> take the place of bread roasted in the ashes. Nevertheless, many varieties are frequently planted together and when harvested they are called <i>chahuen</i>. Certainly this kind of cultivation creates many other varieties, especially if the plants flower and bear seeds.</span><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[6]</span></span></span></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6552i7nz4K-O37Rdy6bW3I5OThGKcJQO340OlGgwMRY8FvDPkhFR7qR0nyjcblgS1CKcOQF3eZHP1A4eWqP8bTNP6008rUfGDX1dLUGguNqZgqh35nm1b-XTiwOLyoZOCKU0BPyi7iLV/s1600/logo_pap_nat.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6552i7nz4K-O37Rdy6bW3I5OThGKcJQO340OlGgwMRY8FvDPkhFR7qR0nyjcblgS1CKcOQF3eZHP1A4eWqP8bTNP6008rUfGDX1dLUGguNqZgqh35nm1b-XTiwOLyoZOCKU0BPyi7iLV/s320/logo_pap_nat.gif" width="176" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7f1sd_GGA2LqXXlciE3r6ka59ukGDrt9quiHfSMySv5tBh6mOKITwQfm6vED_MJM9ovSJLdnmxDd6JcZuHnQZvkFBt2UIwuL0VH23YxIoKdstae8OVpJHFUO54cOQR61YqED7DKl-98K/s1600/tit_papasnat.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="25" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7f1sd_GGA2LqXXlciE3r6ka59ukGDrt9quiHfSMySv5tBh6mOKITwQfm6vED_MJM9ovSJLdnmxDd6JcZuHnQZvkFBt2UIwuL0VH23YxIoKdstae8OVpJHFUO54cOQR61YqED7DKl-98K/s200/tit_papasnat.gif" width="200" /></a></div><h2><i><h2 style="display: inline !important;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Native Potatoes of </i></span><st1:place st="on"><i>Chiloe: </i></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><i>A World Heritage</i></span></span></h2></i><i><br />
</i></h2><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Click for a Google Translation of<o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=1&eotf=1&u=http://www.chiloeweb.com/chwb/cet/variedades.html&sl=es&tl=en">Native Potatoes of Chiloe: Varieties</a></span><o:p></o:p></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div></div><div class="MsoNormal">Chiloe’s <a href="http://www.chiloeweb.com/chwb/cet/">Native Potatoes web site</a> says that “When the Spanish arrived it is certain that more than 1,000 varieties of potatoes were cultivated in the territory of Chiloe,” <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">but today “this singular treasure of great beauty and value is encountering circumstances so adverse that one fears for its disappearance.”</span></span> <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9N1jX-xpTmqJQn93NSHesLwZ5B1c3liwd17fhKycg9V1Hdl_7aBeJb-ZUokf7mjUFMh7GYnp0kT9KNdrMnf79AtOc_SRrGqWtT_wWJb7c_foz7Oefp0dXshXDGKncFQardkXTeYk-8UL/s1600/chilota.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix9N1jX-xpTmqJQn93NSHesLwZ5B1c3liwd17fhKycg9V1Hdl_7aBeJb-ZUokf7mjUFMh7GYnp0kT9KNdrMnf79AtOc_SRrGqWtT_wWJb7c_foz7Oefp0dXshXDGKncFQardkXTeYk-8UL/s400/chilota.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><st1:place st="on"></st1:place></span><br />
<div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: right;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><st1:place st="on">Chiloe</st1:place>’s potatoes come in a vast array of skin colors, flesh colors, textures, sizes, shapes, and characteristics such as productivity, soil preferences, disease and insect tolerance, drought tolerance, and so on. Beyond their intrinsic beauty and value as food, their genetic diversity is an important reservoir of genes with the potential for adapting commercial potato varieties to future challenges.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal">The threats they face come from the modernization of Chilean agriculture, as peasant farmers switch to varieties (including transgenic potato varieties) with greater market appeal, productivity, or resistance to specific diseases.<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">This is the voice of <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Norma Picticar, Huillinco village, Community of Chonchi, <st1:place st="on">Chiloe</st1:place><b>:<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span></b></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><b></b><b><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">[7]</span></span></span></b></span></div><blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="display: inline !important;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Like all the families that live in this area, we plant two types of potatoes; the large potato field where we plant introduced varieties such as the desiree or romana, destined mainly for sale, is the responsibility of my husband, and another smaller field that is my responsibility and is for family consumption is where I plant only Chiloe potatoes.</span></span></b></div></blockquote><blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="display: inline !important;"><b><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">We don’t care for the taste of the introduced potatoes; the taste of the ancient potatoes is very different and they also have more starch which is good for meals and to make milcaos and sweets.</span></span></span></b></div></blockquote><blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="display: inline !important;"><b><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">So my intention is not to stop planting these potatoes, even though I am worried to see that year alter year fewer </span></span><st1:place st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chiloe</span></span></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> potatoes are being planted and planting of introduced potatoes is increasing.</span></span></span></b> </div></blockquote><blockquote><div class="MsoNormal" style="display: inline !important;"><b><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sometimes when think about the future, I am convinced that the Chiloe potatoes are condemned to disappear, not because they are bad or because they are not useful in our way of life, but because things are changing in our community and it is changing our way of thinking, especially of the young people [who leave to take urban jobs].</span></span></span></span></b><b><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><i> </i></span></span></span></b></div></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="apple-style-span"></span></b><br />
<b><span class="apple-style-span"> </span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>Eating Chiloe Potatoes</i></span><br />
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In the 13,000 or more years that Chileans have been eating potatoes a wide variety of recipes have developed. Here are a few from <a href="http://www.chiloeweb.com/chwb/cet/papas_comidas.html">Native Potatoes of Chiloe:</a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><i><span style="color: black;">Milcao </span></i></b></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">Señora ALICIA MANQUILEPI</span><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">, born in Chelín island, community of Quinchao</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">.</span></span></span><br />
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Photo: <a href="http://www.comidachilena.cl/web/component/option,com_ponygallery/Itemid,55/func,detail/id,10/">Comida Chilena</a></div><blockquote></blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uHAo_bDMwLAJjXgsCyA9Ie_F-PLk3cY11E10gMnZY9FzqDVXdNW15kozG6vY6tKq6KT5YFWiczAGfSSvBuQqkknacNQdXRsPCe807vhqACDR05c1rjYRLVTjyBK6eD9EA4COmxsS9o_a/s1600/user_63_milcao.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7uHAo_bDMwLAJjXgsCyA9Ie_F-PLk3cY11E10gMnZY9FzqDVXdNW15kozG6vY6tKq6KT5YFWiczAGfSSvBuQqkknacNQdXRsPCe807vhqACDR05c1rjYRLVTjyBK6eD9EA4COmxsS9o_a/s400/user_63_milcao.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">First boil potatoes in salted water. Then peel and grate the same quantity of raw potatoes as those you have boiled. Grate the raw potatoes with a metal grater or on a <i>piello</i>, a grater of porous black volcanic rock. When the grating is finished, make the <i>chae</i>, that is squeeze out the gated potato in a dish cloth to separate the pulp from the water and <i>lilo</i> or <i>chuño</i> [potato starch in Chiloe Mapuche and in Quechua].</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Once the raw grated potato is squeezed into a <i>chautun</i> [a ball] mix with equal parts of the mashed cooked potato and knead, adding the potato starch from the raw potato [optional] and lard to hold it together. Then make breads and push <i>llire</i> [pork cracklings] into the center. <i>Milcaos</i> can be fried, boiled, baked in the coals or in the oven. (For a more detailed recipe in English see </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Tasting-Chile-Celebration-Authentic-Hippocrene/dp/0781810280/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i>Tasting Chile</i></span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> page 45, by Daniel Joelson)</span></blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black;">Chochoca </span></i></b><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">Señora<b> </b>FIDELINA CARRERA NAHUELQUÍN</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;">, Aytuy, Community of Queilen.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="ES-CL" style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i>Chochoca</i> is another of our breads; the dough is prepared with mashed potatoes to which are added flour and a little lard. Then it is stretched and molded onto a giant roller called a <i>chochoquero</i> stick on which it is roasted over slow coals. Once cooked, it is taken off the stick and folded with lard and pork cracklings, cut into pieces and served hot. It can also be made in the oven, but with the chochoquero stick it is more authentic.</span></blockquote><br />
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</span></div><div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Making <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chochoda</i> in Dalcahue, <st1:place st="on">Chiloe</st1:place></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span style="color: black;">Papitas con color </span></i></b><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Sra. LABINIA PÉREZ</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">, Tey, Community of Castro</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;">.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span></span></div><blockquote>During my life we planted many kinds of potatoes; so many that I’ve forgotten their names. But the pepinaI I remember. It was a “carnation” potato with yellow skin and pink spots over all its body; it was very good for <i>papitas con colo</i>r [potatoes with "color," i.e. chili or paprika oil].</blockquote><o:p></o:p><br />
<blockquote>It was a delight to eat <i>papitas con color</i>. You prepare them like this: Boil the potatoes in salted water, and while they are boiling you make a kind of sauce with oil, chili, salt, pepper and plenty of onion. When the potatoes are done, they are served on a plate with the tasty red sauce over them.</blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></div><blockquote>When my husband<span class="apple-style-span">, Nicanor Barrientos, was alive we planted a potato that was very dear to us called <i>pachacoña</i>, not very big but a good yielder. We planted this potato with the sole object of drying then on the hearth on a lattice work (<i>colon</i>) where it was smoked and dried until almost dry. Then we cooked them in water and ate them when we drank <i>mate</i> [an herbal tea]. They were delicious, with a sweet taste and very soft. After my husband died I kept on planting them, but as time passed I was getting old too and no linger had the strength to plant, and lost these potatoes and their taste and the pleasure I felt drinking <i>mate</i> with them.</span></blockquote><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span class="apple-style-span"><b><i><span style="color: black;">Papas Mallo </span></i></b></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Señor. ABRAHAM ANDRADE</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;">,</span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"> Dicham, Community of Chonchi.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Wheat flower for making bread is a very expensive product for us; we have to buy it in town and then pay to have it delivered out here in the country. So in all out meals we make potatoes mallo to replace bread. Potatoes<i> mallo</i> are cooked in water and served hot. All kinds of potatoes can be used, but the <i>cielito</i> [little sky] is one of the best. It’s called <i>celito</i> because its eyes are just as blue as the sky. It is a floury potato, very tasty.</span></blockquote><o:p></o:p><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">With this history <st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on">Chile</st1:country-region></st1:place> must be paradise for potato lovers, right? Unfortunately not. Eighty percent of <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">Chile</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s commercial potatoes come from three varieties: Desiree, Cardinal and Ultimus. Two other varieties, Romano and Yagana, make up an additional 10 to 15% of the market. Of these, all but Yagana (which is light skinned with white flesh) are red skinned, multipurpose potatoes with yellowish flesh; indistinguishable from one another to the consumer. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="text-align: right;">Yagana <a href="http://www.achipa.cl/Html/info_tecnica.html">Assn Chilena de Papa</a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaJ7uYiw217YG_YABEnXTFGff0u5FZFoj-yvdqtzw7MeheFPmzrTjLcsV4fF1QIKYTRFKCsM-yZ1i8g5ixdgOLLm0-jNE-yvqests72pMYNqG9C14n0-7hXRsljGLeLWFjNFhqqRQ0Qe49/s1600/YaganaInia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaJ7uYiw217YG_YABEnXTFGff0u5FZFoj-yvdqtzw7MeheFPmzrTjLcsV4fF1QIKYTRFKCsM-yZ1i8g5ixdgOLLm0-jNE-yvqests72pMYNqG9C14n0-7hXRsljGLeLWFjNFhqqRQ0Qe49/s1600/YaganaInia.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-dljWfIi5v7QmEOYSjmExmxQLizyr1TMKJGjhDzCdm0LcyBKUfolaMCQD8Ldusux5ivrp0j7OJFm4hG_1A01dDNDK-fYjHuZTwA7Kjjh3AhsAeSNZhK5_HSVSZlz8LLdeKNJmKG8XYYC/s1600/desiree_t_copy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-dljWfIi5v7QmEOYSjmExmxQLizyr1TMKJGjhDzCdm0LcyBKUfolaMCQD8Ldusux5ivrp0j7OJFm4hG_1A01dDNDK-fYjHuZTwA7Kjjh3AhsAeSNZhK5_HSVSZlz8LLdeKNJmKG8XYYC/s320/desiree_t_copy1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div>Desiree. <a href="http://varieties.potato.org.uk/display_description.php?variety_name=Desiree">British Potato Variety Data Base</a><br />
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Why is there so little variety?</div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In the selection of the variety for fresh consumption in </span><st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chile</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> the acceptance of the consumer of skin and flesh color and resistance to cooking plays an important role. The consumer prefers varieties that resist breaking apart when boiled. In relation to skin color, red skinned varieties are preferred. </span><st1:country-region st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chile</span></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> is the one of the few Latin American countries and the only one in </span><st1:place st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">South America</span></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> where red skinned potatoes predominate. This limits the possibilities for export of seed and fresh potatoes, as those with excellent characteristics for export would have great difficulties in the internal market.</span><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_edn8" name="_ednref8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a></blockquote><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p>Desiree and its close relations (all developed in <st1:place st="on">Europe</st1:place> in the last 50 years) are good potatoes; they are firm when boiled, and make acceptable mashed potatoes and French fries. And since “baked potatoes” are not a part of urban Chilean cuisine, the absence of mealy Russet-type baking potatoes is not a problem.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: orange; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: #660000;">But it’s dull, and something of a waste,</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: orange; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: #660000;"> that in a country with 1,000 types of potato, </b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: orange; font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: #660000;">so little variety is available.</b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red;"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div align="right" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br />
</div></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;">Fortunately, some Chileans are trying to change that.</span></div><blockquote><span class="textos-desp-revistas"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Would you like to try blue mashed potatoes that also contain </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">antioxidant flavinoids beneficial to your health? Soon you will be able to eat not just this dish, but various others that contain six of the 286 varieties of potatoes native to Chiloe that will be promoted beginning in March [2008]. Colored potatoes from the island have been part of the diet of its inhabitants and the genetic base of thousands of varieties that today are eaten world wide, but were historically forgotten… But they didn’t disappear completely, because the peasants of </span><st1:place st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chiloe</span></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> have continued small scale cultivation for family use. Isolated initiatives, such as “Papas Arcoiris” [Rainbow Potatoes] are trying to promote the product, thought up until now they have received more attention out side </span><st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chile</span></st1:place></st1:country-region><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> than within</span>.<span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black; font-size: xx-small;">[9]</span></span></span></blockquote><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">According to <a href="http://www.papasarcoiris.cl/english/index.htm">Papas Arcoiris</a>' web site, </div><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> “Papas Arcoiris (Rainbow Potatoes) is a company dedicated to gathering together and improving in a natural manner the legacy of southern </span><st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Chile</span></st1:country-region></st1:place><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> to position it in the most demanding markets in the world.</span></blockquote><blockquote><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Papas Arcoiris was founded in 2002. Its commercial manager is agricultural engineer, Boris Contreras, who together with his father Andres - a professor and researcher at the Austral University of Chile - successfully stimulated this commercial initiative.”</span></blockquote><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">They are sold (occasionally) in Lider and Jumbo supermarkets in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:city st="on">Santiago</st1:city></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">’s up-scale neighborhoods, and in the </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:country-region st="on">US</st1:country-region></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> by “</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><a href="http://www.littlepotatoes.com/english/index.html">The Little Potato Company</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">.” Chiloe potatoes are also available from time to time in local </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i>ferias </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">and in </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i>La Vega </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Santiago's central market.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><br />
</span></div><div align="center" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: x-large;">**********</span></span></div><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Interesting transition: For 7,000 or more years native potatoes were a staple of Chilean diet, the product of the skill and determination of Mapuche farmers. Today Chileans eat a few similar potato varieties from Europe, in quantities less than Europeans</i><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference" style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>[10</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>]</i></span></span></span><i>, while </i><st1:country-region st="on"><i>Chile</i></st1:country-region><i>’s indigenous potatoes, neglected at home, are becoming the darlings of wealthy foodies in Europe and </i><st1:place st="on"><i>North America</i></st1:place><i>. </i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i>I wonder what Pablo Neruda would think.</i></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAgpl57KT1Y-kg86jP8QDI5fx7OJcuth86iWE1bwIaswNexEQWlwRCDFC3veD7dcgVtLfjGiGE_TQaBlW9gxwtyZ88H-20hsQ6v4WAB9_lIA9CiN4hFYMK0-CYXEx_oyr8b3GlKJ7yxd2/s1600/New+Picture+(2).png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAgpl57KT1Y-kg86jP8QDI5fx7OJcuth86iWE1bwIaswNexEQWlwRCDFC3veD7dcgVtLfjGiGE_TQaBlW9gxwtyZ88H-20hsQ6v4WAB9_lIA9CiN4hFYMK0-CYXEx_oyr8b3GlKJ7yxd2/s400/New+Picture+(2).png" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="text-align: center;"><i>(Papa </i>is Quechua for potato.)</div><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #051249; font-family: Arial; font-size: 9pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span>Links:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="color: black;"> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.gourmet.com/diaryofafoodie/video/2008/04/214_chile_preview">Chile Mestizo</a></i> A 30 minute made-for-TV film on Chilean food including a segment of Chiloe Potatoes.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:J4y6ZYmhkaMJ:www.papasnativasdechiloe.cl/uploads/pdf/RECETARIO%2520PAPA%2520NATIVA.pdf+Native+potatoes+of+Chiloe+Cookbook&hl=en&gl=cl&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESiyIGnIb6Wk4c-nPwEIXuXyWUuDNOTJoYqp0jRxa4IfcpQ1shldHgGgnfD_6lX">Native potatoes of Chiloe Cookbook.</a></span><span style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">A bilingual cookbook by the Chilean Association of Chefs, Les Toques Blanches.</span></i></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div style="mso-element: endnote-list;"><br />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" /><div id="edn1" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref1" name="_edn1" style="mso-endnote-id: edn1;" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">1]</span></span></span></a> <st1:place st="on">Latin America</st1:place>, Potato World, International Year of the Potato. On line at <a href="http://www.cipotato.org/pressroom/press_releases_detail.asp?cod=17%E2%8C%A9=en">http://www.cipotato.org/pressroom/press_releases_detail.asp?cod=17&amp;lang=en</a>, and Potato, Wikipedia on line at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potato">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potato</a></span></div></div><div id="edn2"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref2" name="_edn2" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[2]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">American Society of Agronomy (2007, May 16). Biotechnology Solves Debate Over Origin Of European Potato.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><em><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial;">ScienceDaily</span></em><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">. Retrieved June 12, 2010, from http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/05/070515074810.htm</span></span></span></div></div><div id="edn3"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref3" name="_edn3" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[3]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Hijmans, RJ; DM Spooner 2001.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Geographic distribution of wild potato species.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Journal_of_Botany" title="American Journal of Botany"><span style="color: #0b0080;">American Journal of Botany</span></a></span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">(Botanical Society of <st1:place st="on"><st1:country-region st="on">America</st1:country-region></st1:place>)</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><b><span style="color: black;">88</span></b></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">(11): 2101–12. On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.amjbot.org/cgi/content/full/88/11/2101#T1">http://www.amjbot.org/cgi/content/full/88/11/2101#T1</a></span></div></div><div id="edn4"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref4" name="_edn4" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[4]</span></span></span></a> <span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="citationjournal"><span style="color: black;">Spooner, DM; et al. 2005. A single domestication for potato based on multilocus amplified fragment length polymorphism genotyping. </span></span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black;">Proceedings of the <st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on">National</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">Academy</st1:placetype></st1:place> of Sciences.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="citationjournal"><b><span style="color: black;">102</span></b></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><span class="citationjournal"><span style="color: black;">(41): 14694–99.</span></span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="color: black;"> On line at </span></span><a href="http://www.pnas.org/content/102/41/14694">http://www.pnas.org/content/102/41/14694</a><o:p></o:p></span></div></div><div id="edn5"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref5" name="_edn5" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[5]</span></span></span></a> As quoted in Spooner, 2005.</span></div></div><div id="edn6"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref6" name="_edn6" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[6]</span></span></span></a> <span lang="ES-CL">Gay, Claudio. 1862-1865. Agricultura, Tomo 2. París: En casa del autor; Chile: Museo de Historia Natural de Santiago, p. 119. </span>On line at <a href="http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documento_detalle.asp?id=MC0002688">http://www.memoriachilena.cl/temas/documentodetalle.asp?id=MC0002688</a> (Unless otherwise noted, all translations are mine.)</span></div></div><div id="edn7"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref7" name="_edn7" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[7]</span></span></span></a> Peasant Knowledge, Native Potatoes of Chiloe: A World Heritage on line at <a href="http://www.papasnativas.cl/chwb/cet/conoc_campesino.html">http://www.papasnativas.cl/chwb/cet/conoc_campesino.html</a> </span></div></div><div id="edn8"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref8" name="_edn8" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[8]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Kalazich B., Julio. Variedades de Papa. Instituto de Investigaciones Agropecuarias – Centro de Investigación Remehue, Serie Remehue No. 51. on line at </span><a href="http://www.inia.cl/remehue/publicaciones/online/serie_remehue/51/cap5.pdf"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.inia.cl/remehue/publicaciones/online/serie_remehue/51/cap5.pdf</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn9"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref9" name="_edn9" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[9]</span></span></span></a><span lang="ES-CL"> Papas chilotas de colores salen del anonimato. Chile Potencia Alimentaria. 2/26/2008. On line at </span><a href="http://www.chilepotenciaalimentaria.cl/content/view/135366/Papas-chilotas-de-colores-salen-del-anonimato.html#content-top"><span lang="ES-CL">http://www.chilepotenciaalimentaria.cl/content/view/135366/Papas-chilotas-de-colores-salen-del-anonimato.html#content-top</span></a><span lang="ES-CL"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div></div><div id="edn10" style="mso-element: endnote;"><div class="MsoEndnoteText"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Jim/My%20Documents/blogs/Eating%20Chilean/Chiloe/papas/Eating%20Chilean%20Potatoes%20txt.doc#_ednref10" name="_edn10" title=""><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span class="MsoEndnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial;">[10]</span></span></span></a> Chilean annual potato consumption is about 55 kg. per year; <st1:place st="on">Europe</st1:place> averages 88 kg. See <a href="http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/what-chileans-eat-chilean-national-diet_2689.html">http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2010/05/what-chileans-eat-chilean-national-diet_2689.html</a></span></div></div></div></div>Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01689286618770701205noreply@blogger.com11